Gunsmithing Moly Resin - Advice Needed

Rerun7

Furious George
Full Member
Minuteman
  • Feb 18, 2017
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    Fayetteville, Arkansas
    I'm a DIY guy and want to finish off a rifle with a coating. I had looked into sending it off for cerakote but saw that I could probably do my own coating of moly resin for less than $100. Anyone have experience with this stuff and could provide tips on what has worked / hasn't worked regarding prep, etc? I've been doing krylon jobs for years but would like something nicer on this rig. Thanks in advance!
     
    I went through the same thing you are going through last year. Thought the same thing, wanted something nicer than rattle can. It wanted to do it myself and try to save some money. I went with moly resin and a cheapo air brush from Amazon. It went pretty good, prep was easy, but thorough. Application was easy once I got it figured out. Overall it came out really nice.

    What disappointed me was the lack of durability. I found myself being as careful or even more careful after all the trouble I went through with it just to try not to scratch it. Maybe I was expecting too much, but in the future I'll stick with rattle can unless I'm building a nice enough gun that warrants a professional coating at which point I'll just pay to have it done.
     
    I don't have good access to a bead blaster. I was reading that you could also prep by hand using a scrubber/sand paper and proper degreaser.

    Im going to do a simple one color application for the barrel and action so I'm thinking it should be pretty easy.
     
    I do a lot of cerakote, Prep is everything. Spraying is not bad, just get a good HVLP gun if you plan on doing quite a few guns. If you have acess to a blaster use Aluminum oxide or garnet 100-120 grit. Make sure to degrease it well also.

    Good Luck :)

    Casey
     
    I don't have good access to a bead blaster. I was reading that you could also prep by hand using a scrubber/sand paper and proper degreaser.

    Im going to do a simple one color application for the barrel and action so I'm thinking it should be pretty easy.

    You don't need a bead blaster. You need to use 80-120 grit Aluminum oxide or garnet for grip like ugsly said. If you don't you are pissing up a rope. In most cases a do it yourselfer would be better off paying a professional to do the job.
     
    Northwest Arkansas. I've tried to find a local shop that would do a quality finish but there isn't much around here. Wilson combat is fairly close but they only offer a coating called armor tuff. Never heard of it other than them and not sure if they'll do it for something not theirs. Gonna call them tomorrow and see.
     
    Yeah about ten hours to my shop. I have one of his armor tough pistols, looks and acts like cerakote to me.
    the first guns that I painted were prepped with a portable blasting gun that sucks sand from a bucket. Wasteful and messy, but cheap. I started with alumahide then duracoat, both very easy, neather in range of cerakote. It's all relatively easy, but cerakote does require a fair investment in equipment.
    good luck
     
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    There is a cerakote applicator in Eurika Springs, by Berryville. I don't know him, but has pretty pictures on his web page. Google hillbilly223. Definately would try to handle his work prior to leaving him a rifle.
     
    There is a cerakote applicator in Eurika Springs, by Berryville. I don't know him, but has pretty pictures on his web page. Google hillbilly223. Definately would try to handle his work prior to leaving him a rifle.

    I talked to Wilson Combat this morning. They won't touch a bolt gun. The person on the phone recommended this same guy and said he does good work so I'll look into that too.

    If not then I'm going to try my hand at the moly resin.
     
    I bought a $40 airbrush off Amazon and use Cerakote air dry. You can get small containers from Brownell's and they'll do multiple rifles. It's extremely durable. I took steel wool to one the other day that had been painted six months ago and it left no marks. It's so much more durable than any other air dry paint I've tried. It will scratch but you really have to work at it to scratch. And, if you do, it's easy to touch up with the airbrush although I've not had to touch up any as of yet.
     
    I bought a $40 airbrush off Amazon and use Cerakote air dry. You can get small containers from Brownell's and they'll do multiple rifles. It's extremely durable. I took steel wool to one the other day that had been painted six months ago and it left no marks. It's so much more durable than any other air dry paint I've tried. It will scratch but you really have to work at it to scratch. And, if you do, it's easy to touch up with the airbrush although I've not had to touch up any as of yet.

    Thats good to know! I didn't realize they had an air dry version, I thought it would be way more complicated.

    Also so checking out Custom Gun Coatings. Thanks for the advice!
     
    As others have mentioned DO NOT bead blast. It leaves a smooth finish and paint won't adhere to it properly. Bead blasting is good for Stainless barrels where you want a nice satin finish (but don't paint it). Good paint prep uses 120 grit aluminum oxide, or "Starblast" at about 70 PSI in a blast cabinet. Degreasing/decontaminating prior to applying the finish is critical. I go through a lot of CRC brake cleaner (cheapest at wallyworld).

    I've used Moly Resin in the past and it goes on easy. Moly Resin is very thin. That means no extra thinning required, but it is easier to get runs than if you used a thicker type of paint. I used an inexpensive "Badger" brand airbrush and it worked surprisingly well with Moly Resin. However, I too felt the finish was a bit "delicate". I have since "graduated" to heat cure Cerakote. I bought the Cerakote recommended Iwata HVLP gun. It is an absolute work of art, it is the shizzle. It also has the proper sized tip to spray Cerakote. Do not try to shoot Cerakote with a traditional airbrush though, there aren't any around that are available with large enough tips/orifices (ask me how I know.......). I also built a vertical curing oven with an extension rack that works quite well. Also, water traps/air coolers/driers for the output of your compressed air source are critical. If the system being used doesn't have them, you'll get water in the paint and ruined finishes will be the result due to "fisheyes".

    A big part of your success is having (and learning how to use) the right tools. Once you have the tools, the learning curve isn't bad. If you don't have the right tools, you'll have failures and you won't necessarily be able to figure out why. If you aren't going to finish a lot of items, it doesn't make sense to invest in the tools. That is, unless you want to escape to your man cave, learn new things and have a finished product that you can (and want to) take personal pride in.

    I would recommend staying away from the whole handsanding etc., process. You will probably have problems and be unhappy with the results. Others have made good recommendations for certified applicators, I'd suggest using one of them. The prices may seem high, but from personal experience of having done the work, I look at their prices and I haven't seen many that seemed out of line. Trust me, no one is getting rich from applying Cerakote. It is labor intensive (assuming they are doing it correctly). The prep time is probably 80% of the job, shooting the paint is quick. Remember, whoever is doing the work, their time is worth something. If you pay them to do the job right the first time, you won't be looking back and saying "that project cost me twice what it should have, I should have just sent it to the applicator the first time around".

    Hope this helps......