Most Accurate Bolt Gun for around $1000?

[Potss]

WAIT! Before you post "this has been answered X number of times" read the whole post. I have a few specific criteria, and new rifles and actions are coming out all the time.

Looking for the most accurate bolt gun for around $1000 give or take. Basically I could throw in a few hundred more if the accuracy bump was substantial enough. Only requirements are that it has a threaded barrel and comes in a caliber you can buy loaded ammo for at a somewhat reasonable price (so 6mm Creedmoor counts but 6x47 doesn't). Will be shot 100% suppressed through a SIG SRD 7.62 so no caliber over .30cal.

It will be used for long range practice (1550y is current max range, usual is 650y and it doesn't need to be terminally effective much beyond that), loaner rifle, occasional long range hunting from a blind (very little hiking, weight is almost a non-issue), and printing the smallest groups possible closer in.

I see three rifles repeated in these sorts of threads: Bergara HMR, Tikka T3x CTR, Ruger Precision Rifle. But I'm open to anything as long as it best fits the above criteria. And really the emphasis is on accuracy at this price point.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Jackalope]

Howa 1500 barreled action from brownells in a Bell and Carlson with CDI bottom metal would be my choice. I recently put one together for a friend and it’s a nice little setup. The threaded creedmoor is out of stock at the moment but that would be a good option.

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...blue-6-5-creedmoor-6-threaded-prod103531.aspx

 

[spife7980]

For pure budget accuracy savage on sale (with the rebates they can be had for like 219-250 Ive seen) and then thread on a new aftermarket barrel for 350-450. The good aftermarket barrel will be the single largest factor. Bed it in a boyds. It wont be fancy but there are plenty of people competing in fclass and bench with a similar set up. Maybe swap in a new aftermarket bolt face if funds allow for shits and giggles.

 

[HoustonB77]

You will be hard pressed to find anything better than a Tikka in that price range. I would buy a CTR and if you had a couple hundred extra bucks I would put it in a KRG Bravo chassie.

 

[trob_205]

https://grabagun.com/ruger-72.html?source=igodigital

 

[Dave62677]

Tikka

 

[Ledzep]

Ruger American predator (Predator just for the scope rail) with a PVA prefit 6.5 creedmoor barrel. Sand out the barrel channel or spring for a Boyds or Magpul (when/if they are available).

 

[rd_kng]

RUGER® PRECISION RIFLE 6MM CREEDMOOR GEN 2 at CDNN for 899.99 includes rings and sling.

 

[Potss]

spife7980 what kind of savage are you referring to? And how hard is it to change the barrel? As of now I can only perform the most basic of gunsmithing tasks, so for example I'd have to pay to have bedding done so factor that into the price.

As for the other suggestions so far, thanks! But I was hoping to have some justification as to WHY you would select the rifle and caliber you recommend. Why the RPR, Tikka, Savage Build, Howa Build, Ruger Predator Build, vs. the others?

 

[mi223]

Savage barrels are easy to change. Youtube it. You will need a few special tools but very doable.

With that said any of the rifles you mentioned would be fine. i would say try to get your hands on them to see what you like. A 6.5 creed is your goto round for a non reloader.

 

[Namekagon]

I don't have any experience with a Bergara, but Cabela's has the Bergara B-14 HMR for $950. Threaded barrel, mini-chassis stock, adjustable cheek piece, flush cups, DBM, oversize bolt knob, 6.5 creedmoor. That's quite a list of features for that price. IF it shoots, it would be a hell of a buy.

In my experience, the biggest limitation of most factory rifles were the barrel twist rates. Whatever you buy, if you plan to shoot the factory barrel make sure it can spin the bullets you want to shoot.

 

[Ledzep]

Ruger American Predator with a PVA Rock Creek prefit because accuracy is in the barrel. You're going to have a rifle capable of the same mechanical accuracy as a $4000 full custom build. Tikkas and Bergaras are also great options if you don't want to mess with anything, but on average, I'd trust a Rock Creek barrel to shoot smaller groups than a factory Tikka or Bergara barrel.

You're splitting hairs, but if accuracy is the main concern, you can't do it any cheaper (that I'm aware of). You sacrifice, however, bolt feel, action quality, stock quality, etc...

Best all-around for $1000, Bergara B14 with the adjustable stock.

 

[wade2big]

For pure budget accuracy savage on sale (with the rebates they can be had for like 219-250 Ive seen) and then thread on a new aftermarket barrel for 350-450. The good aftermarket barrel will be the single largest factor. Bed it in a boyds. It wont be fancy but there are plenty of people competing in fclass and bench with a similar set up. Maybe swap in a new aftermarket bolt face if funds allow for shits and giggles.

Hold off on that savage barrel change. My buddy bought one of the 26” varmint profile savage rifles that are Cabelas exclusives I think. Normally $439 and on sale for $389 I believe. He bought the rifle with $100 gift cards that you can by for $84 on eBay. Savage was running a $100 rebate which has ended now. $250 all in. He took off a lot of material to free float the barrel. The rifle shoots factory American gunner ammo at .36” at 100yds every time. I am not a fan of savage rifles but the accuracy at least in this sample of one is freaky.

 

[Potss]

So basically, picking up a cheaper action like the Ruger American or (any?) Savage and then putting on an aftermarket barrel like the PVA Rock Creek or similar will net the most accuracy under $1000? So the action and/or stock will not be holding back the accuracy (just ergonomics and speed)? Why do people bother lapping lugs and truing actions and buying Mausingfields and MPA chassis then, just ergos and speed? Or is it just that the action and stock won't hold back the barrel much so you net more accuracy then a stock Tikka/RPR/Bergara? Sorry, I just want to understand this correctly.

If what is being said about swapping barrels being the way to go is true, then I have a few followup questions:

1.) Can the same thing be done with a cheap Tikka T3x lite (or similar)? I see PVA has pre-fits for Tikka as well.

2.) A bed job would be $150-215 (skim vs. pillar) locally, should this be done along with the barrel swap on the Ruger American/Savage? Would it even be worth trying with the stocks they come with?

3.) Is there anywhere to get just the action for the Ruger/Savage so the rifle could also be built with a better chassis?

 

[spife7980]

Ruger no, savage yes I think northland has them and maybe even trued? It won’t be cheaper than the rebates and they may be flat bottomed as well. Not sure on that. The same can be done for a Tikka and most every rifle. The barrel and a good chamber are the biggest component. The action is more or less just there to load and remove the round. Sure the bolt face needs to be square etc optimally but barrel is the biggest factor. The stock is so that where you point it is actually consistent each time instead of stressed here or there and warping. The better the trigger the less pulling on it moves your point of aim off. They all play together. Bed the thing yourself, it’s a fun project. The factory barrel on any rifle can be amazing, it could also be less so, that’s the dice we roll.

 

[Namekagon]

If trying to decide between the savage and ruger actions, I'd pick the savage. They have a track record of shooting surprisingly well. Much better than pricetag would suggest. My dad has a heavy barrel 204 that shoots 0.30" groups at 100 regularly and its completely factory. He has another stock savage that shoots around 0.5moa in .260. Both with handloads of course.

I think the floating bolt head is a big part of the reason. Might negate much of the need to true the action? IDK, I'm not sure what else it could be. They just seem to shoot better than expected for what you pay.

 

[patriot07]

Easy answer - Tikka CTR

 

[Potss]

Interesting points about the build/rebarreling option. The two things I'm stuck on are the stock and bedding. I keep reading reviews about how important the bedding is to repeatable accuracy, and how the lower end Ruger and especially Savage stocks flex far too much an also inhibit accuracy, and generally aren't worth bedding. From what I've read, it sounds like I'd need to get a new stock in addition (at a minimum with the Savage) and also probably have it bedded (or maybe do it myself we'll see). Might just be able to sneak that into the budget depending on options, you are right it does seem a lot cheaper to just buy the rifle than try to find just the action. Seems a shame to throw away a stock and barrel, but the price is just so low on the Savage/Ruger.

If it is true that the stock should probably be replaced, which stock/chassis would make the most sense for this price point?

And the Tikka lites seem to have a decent enough stock to not need replacing, at least not in the short term, can anyone confirm this? If so it seems like that might be the best option, pick one up for about $500, put on a PVA button Rock Creek for about $450. Any reason not to do that over the Savage/Ruger (or for that matter the CTR)?

 

[patriot07]

The Tikka lite stocks are not great, and you're limited on mag capacity. CTR gets you 10 round mags, a stock with a vertical foregrip, and it'll handle a heavier contour barrel. Best value in precision shooting IMHO. You reach the point of diminishing returns pretty quickly once you pass the CTR price point, although certainly there are more expensive rifles that can do some awesome things.

 

[bigjake83]

I don't know what all the above BS is about but the Ruger RPR is just as good, if not better than most custom rifles I've seen today here's my experience with my brand new one out of the box .25 MOA

What more could you want???
I didn't have to swap barrels or bed actions or do any of that Bullshit that the people are saying above, I took it out of the box and the fucking thing shoots. the new "GEN3" RPR is a completely different rifle, smooth action, just as nice a the Tikkas, and stupid accurate. All I did was bring the trigger pull down to 2.5LBS and shoot some Hornady Match ammo....DONE!

The CTR, has a nice Action and barrels, but the stock is shit!! And you have to run their Mags or AI's.

You have absolutely none of these issues with the RPR.



https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/new-2018-rpr-thanks-cs-tactical.6880122/

 

[patriot07]

I have nothing bad to say about the RPR either. If you want more of a chassis gun than the Tikka CTR, it's a great option. If you want to save a few hundred dollars and/or don't want the chassis, then the CTR makes more sense. Those are the two best options at this price point, and nothing else really comes close IMHO, with the new Howa chassis gun (forget what it's called) being the only possible exception.

 

[Ledzep]

Interesting points about the build/rebarreling option. The two things I'm stuck on are the stock and bedding. I keep reading reviews about how important the bedding is to repeatable accuracy, and how the lower end Ruger and especially Savage stocks flex far too much an also inhibit accuracy, and generally aren't worth bedding. From what I've read, it sounds like I'd need to get a new stock in addition (at a minimum with the Savage) and also probably have it bedded (or maybe do it myself we'll see). Might just be able to sneak that into the budget depending on options, you are right it does seem a lot cheaper to just buy the rifle than try to find just the action. Seems a shame to throw away a stock and barrel, but the price is just so low on the Savage/Ruger.

If it is true that the stock should probably be replaced, which stock/chassis would make the most sense for this price point?

And the Tikka lites seem to have a decent enough stock to not need replacing, at least not in the short term, can anyone confirm this? If so it seems like that might be the best option, pick one up for about $500, put on a PVA button Rock Creek for about $450. Any reason not to do that over the Savage/Ruger (or for that matter the CTR)?

The Ruger stock comes with "power bedding" blocks or some such.. Anyway, My experience with the factory ruger stocks has been acceptable. Factory barrels are +/- 1 MOA or so and are repeatable. The stocks do flex but under normal prone/bench bipod use the stock never interfered with my American rifles. You would need to modify the barrel channel if you replaced the barrel because I believe the PVA prefits are thicker in contour, also.

Certainly on the short list of things to replace/upgrade, the factory stock with some work I believe would work well for a start. There are also some modifications you can do in the way of stiffening polymer stocks with aluminum if you're so inclined. Cheaper than buying a replacement, but $150-375 options are out there that are very solid and come with similar bedding blocks. Check stockysstocks, Boyds, and Magpul Hunter.

Bedding is important, but it's not hard. I use 2 dabs of Jb Weld to bed my stocks and it works. The presentation isn't good, but nobody has to see it, either. I believe if the Ruger bedding blocks are installed correctly (if there is no inherent binding/fuckery), epoxy bedding isn't necessary.

You will be much happier in the long run with a Tikka T3. Much MUCH better action in terms of fit/finish/materials. The same barrel channel opening modification would likely be necessary with a T3 lite, but yes, if enough clearance is there, it should work for most purposes without touching the barrel. Down the road you can look at something like a KRG Xray or KRG Bravo, or even traditional stocks and DBM for the T3.

1000 ways to skin the cat. Depends on what's important to you. Overall my take is that you're best off with a solid action because everything else can be easily upgraded/changed. You can always save more money, too. I would buy a Tikka T3 and upgrade it as I could afford it personally, before I'd throw together a Ruger. If you put an arbitrary $1000 price limit on things and just want pure accuracy, sure. If you want a rifle you're going to keep and use for years and years... maybe not so much.

 

[Potss]

Yeah the goal here is as stated in the OP, max accuracy for around $1000. I can put in a few hundred more if it really buys a lot of price/performance. To the point, this rifle doesn't need to be hiked through the mountains, and it doesn't need to come to the PRS match, I have other options for those kinds of activities. I don't need 10 round mags (heck I could even single-feed and be OK), and I don't need the fastest smoothest action. Of course both would be nice but I'm willing to sacrifice to gain accuracy within the budget. Basically this is a pure bench/range gun (so you could almost think of it like a benchrest gun, but not going quite that extreme in terms of weight) for fun from 100y-1500y and the occasional hide hunt from 100-700y or so. Fun for me meaning making tiny groups and precise shots within those ranges.

It sounds like (and it makes sense to me that) a PVA rock creek is going to straight up yield more accuracy (in all likelihood) than the RPR, Bergara HMR, or Tikka T3x CTR (or similar like the Howa). How close the performance would be I do not know and would be happy to see some data on, but from what I've gleaned the three factory rifles mentioned are generally in the .9-.6moa range with factory ammo, and if very lucky bellow that. While the PVA should have a higher probability of being the .5moa range. But if I'm wrong on this point, feel free to correct me.

If it is true (as it seems) that the PVA rock creek (or similar) barrel is the way to go in this price range, then the question becomes which action & stock/chassis will compliment the PVA barrel best in terms of accuracy. In other words what rifle offers the best stock+action (and I guess trigger) with accuracy in mind for around $400-650 which is what will be left after the PVA barrel is purchased. It sounds to me like the Tikka T3 or T3x would be the winner here, if for no other reason than the stock is significantly nicer than the Ruger American's or Savage's in this price range. Again, please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong on this.

 

[TheOE800]

You could get an AI AX Proof barrel for around a thousand. Probably pretty accurate too. ?

 

[Vodoun daVinci]

I'm probably not looking in the right places but I'm not finding any Tikkas at $1000. I bought a Savage 10 FCP 6.5 Creedmoor with 24" barrel for $600ish with shipping/rebate. With a $200 Vortex Scope it's shooting sub MOA at 100 yards with the junk AccuStock.

Buy you a Savage 10 FCP in yer choice and add a cheap scope. Precision Rifle for <$1K

When this one has 1000 rounds thru it I'll upgrade the chassis and see if I can do better. but I'm not finding sub $1K rifles in the other out of the box categories. Rugers excluded.

VooDoo

 

[Potss]

I don't need an optic, I have plenty. The ~$1k is just for the rifle.

Use gun.deals to find the cheapest retail stuff you can: https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/Tikka+ctr

Currently, cheapest T3x CTR is $860, Tikka T3x Lite is $540, Ruger American is $362, Savage 10 is $520, Ruger Precision Rifle (gen 2) is $910, Bergara HMR is $909, Howa 1500 is $475, all in 6.5CM. So that should give folks and idea of the current playing field. The PVA Pre-fits that we are talking about are around $425-475. The cost to re-barrel would be around $100 locally, and the cost to bed would be a bit more. Not sure what a decent stock would cost for the savage/ruger.

 

[patriot07]

If you get a Tikka CTR 6.5 and it shoots worse than .5 MOA with 140 ELD-M factory ammo, yours will be the worst I've seen. Mine puts factory Hornady ammo in one big hole, and I've seen others do the same. That particular combo is just silly value. By the way, I got my CTR for the same reason you're looking - range fun, no hunting, etc., and I can't say enough about how much I like it.

 

[brianf]

go to the PX

 

[Potss]

I've been browsing the PX for a while. Nothing has caught my eye recently, but I've seen enough great deals there to keep on eye on it at all times.

After a decent amount more research, it seems like I've narrowed it down to two options (again pending some assumptions):

1.) Get a Tikka T3x CTR 24in 6.5CM stainless for ~$900 and just make sure the barrel is actually free floated. While it might not have the best stock it seems like the accuracy is there regardless. If I really want down the road it will be easy to put it in a new chassis if I feel the stock is hampering accuracy. After I shoot out the factory barrel, I can easily replace it with the PVA prefit.

2.) Get a Ruger American Predator for ~$360, put it in the new Magpul hunter stock (allows for use of Pmags) when it is released for ~$260, and rebarrel right away to the PVA prefit for ~$425 for a total of ~$1045. As of now the Ruger is cheaper than the savage, and has access to (or will soon) a much nicer replacement stock for much cheaper as well, and one that doesn't require the added cost of bedding.

Every other option seems to either yield no additional accuracy and/or cost more.

I guess what it really comes down to is: with high quality factory ammo (like prime, 147gr ELDMs, ABM, etc) will a PVA barrel with a Ruger American action in a Magpul Hunter chassis really be noticeably more accurate from the bench than a Tikka T3x CTR without replacing the somewhat flexible and non-bedded stock? Perhaps not quantifiable in 100y groups, but maybe something I'd notice at say 900y?

 

[260284]

I've been browsing the PX for a while. Nothing has caught my eye recently, but I've seen enough great deals there to keep on eye on it at all times.

After a decent amount more research, it seems like I've narrowed it down to two options (again pending some assumptions):

1.) Get a Tikka T3x CTR 24in 6.5CM stainless for ~$900 and just make sure the barrel is actually free floated. While it might not have the best stock it seems like the accuracy is there regardless. If I really want down the road it will be easy to put it in a new chassis if I feel the stock is hampering accuracy. After I shoot out the factory barrel, I can easily replace it with the PVA prefit.

2.) Get a Ruger American Predator for ~$360, put it in the new Magpul hunter stock (allows for use of Pmags) when it is released for ~$260, and rebarrel right away to the PVA prefit for ~$425 for a total of ~$1045. As of now the Ruger is cheaper than the savage, and has access to (or will soon) a much nicer replacement stock for much cheaper as well, and one that doesn't require the added cost of bedding.

Every other option seems to either yield no additional accuracy and/or cost more.

I guess what it really comes down to is: with high quality factory ammo (like prime, 147gr ELDMs, ABM, etc) will a PVA barrel with a Ruger American action in a Magpul Hunter chassis really be noticeably more accurate from the bench than a Tikka T3x CTR without replacing the somewhat flexible and non-bedded stock? Perhaps not quantifiable in 100y groups, but maybe something I'd notice at say 900y?

I have an older CTR T3 that was a 20" 260 and I can tell you that the factory stock did not hinder accuracy at all. I shot it for a couple of years and only painted it. The barrel made contact under the chamber and that was it. The main reason I replaced mine was better ergos and that I wanted to re-barrel with a heavier barrel. Now it has a medium palma 6.5 Creedmoor barrel and it sits in a GGS Predator. The KRG Bravo is a cheaper option that has more room for accessories than the GGS and can be machined to accept the CTR mags if desired.

One of my sons went the Ruger American Predator and we ordered the Magpul Hunter for it last fall. Still no sign of the stock and from what I have seen, the Bravo is a better product. I filled the forend of the RAP with JB weld and sanded it out to keep the barrel free floated while on a bipod. We only tried Prime and American Whitetail through it and the Hornady was under 1 moa. The factory rotary mags are a joke, but the new models are AICS compatable, but still more tupperware than the Tikka CTR stocks.

A friend has the new T3x CTR and the stock is better than the T3 model for sure. I would get the vertical grip and rig an ARCA plate on the flat forend attachment and run it until the barrel is toast and then you have a really good action and trigger to build off of.

 

[Cold_Bore_88]

Tikka and Bergara. Don’t over think it.

Bergara is good as it is a R700 footprint and use R700 parts.

 

[Potss]

I've discounted the Bergara vs. the Tikka because even though the Bergara has a significantly nicer stock, you can only get it in 22in and only with a 4140 barrel. I've also noticed that on average, it seems Tikka CTR users post slightly better accuracy results, and this is about pure accuracy in the end. I'm sure the Bergara would serve me well, it just seems the Tikka or Ruger build would be somewhat more ideal for the stated uses. Of course feel free to correct me if I'm off on that.

 

[walleye slayer]

I just worked up a load on a bergera b14 hmr for a good friend of mine. It was my first experience with the rifle. Lets just say im very impressed. The only downfall would be the 22” barrel. I like a longer barrel personally. Its in a 6.5 Creedmoor and i found a load that produced a 4 shot 1 hole group with very little work. The action and trigger are very nice and the stock is as well. I have no experience with the tikka or ruger but id bet youd be very happy with the bergera.

 

[Bender]

Here is what my plain Jane RPR does with bulk cheepo 140g ammo. This was with a hot barrel and smoking hot can.

Wasn’t trying that hard. Just a zero check after shooting steel for half an hour.

 

[lawofsavage]

My vote is for Tikka CTR but I’m on a huge tikka kick right now In full disclosure ?. My reasoning is that in my opinion it is the most fun to use and gives you the feeling that you’re using something of good quality. You’re already talking about modifications so that’s definitely going to happen whether you realize it or not right now ?. I think a tikka is a solid base to start from and you’re really not losing a whole hell of a lot action wise in my opinion if using comparable barrels and stocks/ chassis to a custom.

If you’re going to leave it stock, my vote would be hmr or rpr depending on which is more comfortable to you.

 

[Frankly]

Of all the rifles mentioned wouldn’t the sample variation between individual rifles be greater than the supposed variation between brand names?

With that in mind get the action you most want to use and continue to build off from. If you shoot it as much as you plan to then you can and will swap barrels and chassis down the road with incremental expense.

Which means avoiding something like the Ruger American because of limited options while the Beraga (R700) and Tikka have a lot....

Also don’t overlook used and Howas.

 

[Codiekfx400]

Get the rpr at grabagun in 6 Creedmoor for $841 and shoot factory eld match ammo. Very impressive accuracy on the one I have. Once you burn that barrel out you can rebarrel for 6 or 6.5 Creedmoor and have a nice custom barrel from PVA or lri. Tikka ctr is great as well but you have to live with the stock. Changing stocks is more expensive than changing barrels in my experience.

 

[walleye slayer]

Heres the bergera

 

[walleye slayer]