The routine is wake up just before dawn, smell the diesel and open sewer hanging in the humidity, then get some coffee and watch the smoke start to rise from everywhere as the day’s cooking and trash fires start up. Immediately after comes the next round of exhaust fumes to mix in with the smell of burning plastic, rotting meat for sale, shit and body odor.A lot of the big cities in Africa are the same. First time I got off the plane in Addis Ababa it hit me like a rock. There, its the poorly burnt diesel exhaust and that 80%+ still cook on wood and charcoal everyday. The fairly humid air traps it all and I swear it hangs right at face level. Every time you come back you cough for a week, or a month depending on how long you were there. And then there's malaria......so there's that.