Literally any beretta handgun
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God bless these dirty ass women!
Every hefty girl you post obliterates the lineI’m pretty sure I’ve crossed that line.
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Has to be any newer AI
I'd be finding a different framer. Those stairs are going to squeak like a nest of rats. PLUS:View attachment 8237377
We all mock keltec.View attachment 8237385
For $600? I didn’t think it was possible to make a firearm uglier AND more expensive than a KelTec.
The typos are better than the real thing.We all mock keltec.
But my brother bought one as a good at the range one day
I don’t know how many rounds have been shit and it’s never been cleaned or oiled.
Better than a AK lol
Just changed them.The typos are better than the real thing.
No Bueno.I’m don’t do framing but I’ll play. Are the stringers (?) for the stairs just toe-nailed? Shouldn’t they be supported from below?
View attachment 8237422
I’m don’t do framing but I’ll play. Are the stringers (?) for the stairs just toe-nailed? Shouldn’t they be supported from below?
View attachment 8237422
I have absolutely no room to talk. I just picked up a KS7 from my FFL this week for well under $400 shipped/transferred. It’ll have more money in accessories than the gun alone is worth after adding a light/sling/and spare shell storage.We all mock keltec.
But my brother bought one as a goof at the range one day
I don’t know how many rounds have been shot and it’s never been cleaned or oiled.
Better than a AK lol
Oh yeah, I forgot about that gap in the boards on top of the top plate there!
But yes, that gap at the top of the stairs is my #1 concern. I’m not even sure that’s how stairs are supposed to attach at the top. What’s supporting the weight on that end, other than a few nails?
The other is how almost none of the supports between the studs are cut to the correct length; especially on the stairs:
View attachment 8237435
Edit: The good news is, with the insane number of nails this framing crew went through, I think I can try to pass this off as a steel structure for insurance purposes!![]()
The cripple on the end, supporting the rough sill, should be one piece to the bottom plate. A stud reaching from plate to plate is called a king stud. That one on the left side would not pass a framing inspection where I am even there were shitty carpenters that would do that.yup.. why we called the builder out. Was wondering how long it would take someone to point out some obvious ”issues” with the job so far. All this will be covered up with drywall at some point, so not too concerned about some deviations as long as it doesn’t present a structural issue, but tells me a lot about the build quality in general.
Kind of like the crazy amount of nails used. I have neither the time nor energy to do it myself, and am constantly shocked at how low standards for stick-frame construction have continued to drop over the years.
There are at least two other flaws that have me more concerned just in this picture…. Let’s see who can find them!
Also, I think those are normal ‘cripple’ studs; just there to add thickness for the windows above. Maybe someone on here can enlighten me?
and after that crash, Lil Dale switched over to Chevy….
She's still in a class of her own.
Ah it’s fine. Caulk and paint make you the carpenter you ain’t.The cripple on the end, supporting the rough sill, should be one piece to the bottom plate. A stud reaching from plate to plate is called a king stud. That one on the left side would not pass a framing inspection where I am even there were shitty carpenters that would do that.
I attach the stringers using hangers and what we call "power blocking"...usually a 2x6 glued and nailed into the face of the stringers. This gets glued/nailed into the framing on the upper floor level. Similar at the bottom of the stairs, using a foam sill gasket and TapCon screws into the concrete or glue/screws into the wood floor framing that has been headered out to support those stairs.
Also, notice how each of your rough treads has already warped (they are not done) and there are MULTIPLE shiners. I use 2 layers of 3/4 glued and SCREWED for rough treads. I do also prefer to use LVL for the stringers.
On the far left of the pic I sent earlier is some weird off layout studs. In the middle of the window, the cripples are not the same layout. They should be on the same layout as the rest of the wall, add in for king studs. Sure, drywall....but what about when you want to attach something?
I bet I could find more than a weeks worth of repairs you need in just a few minutes of walking.
I just want to know why the bridging is at 6'-8" AFF? Going to be an interesting drywall job.The cripple on the end, supporting the rough sill, should be one piece to the bottom plate. A stud reaching from plate to plate is called a king stud. That one on the left side would not pass a framing inspection where I am even there were shitty carpenters that would do that.
I attach the stringers using hangers and what we call "power blocking"...usually a 2x6 glued and nailed into the face of the stringers. This gets glued/nailed into the framing on the upper floor level. Similar at the bottom of the stairs, using a foam sill gasket and TapCon screws into the concrete or glue/screws into the wood floor framing that has been headered out to support those stairs.
Also, notice how each of your rough treads has already warped (they are not done) and there are MULTIPLE shiners. I use 2 layers of 3/4 glued and SCREWED for rough treads. I do also prefer to use LVL for the stringers.
On the far left of the pic I sent earlier is some weird off layout studs. In the middle of the window, the cripples are not the same layout. They should be on the same layout as the rest of the wall, add in for king studs. Sure, drywall....but what about when you want to attach something?
I bet I could find more than a weeks worth of repairs you need in just a few minutes of walking.
Bridging is required for sheer on the joints of the sheeting, if it's 8 foot they ran it vertically, which is against the strength axis of the sheets. O.S.B. does have a strength axis and should be run horizontal.I just want to know why the bridging is at 6'-8" AFF? Going to be an interesting drywall job.
This might be the most narcissistic, primary character syndrome having post I've ever read. Who the fuck owes you an explanation for their post? Go back to the BST forums pearl clutcher.Is this a pro porn in school libraries cartoon? If so, what do you have to say for yourself?
No shit.Bridging is required for sheer on the joints of the sheeting, if it's 8 foot they ran it vertically, which is against the strength axis of the sheets. O.S.B. does have a strength axis and should be run horizontal.
I’ve been looking for one in Canukistan. Hard to find.