Night Vision Mounting PVS-30 to hunting stocks.

RyanScott

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Without getting a massive forend, what are my options for mounting a PVS-30? Application would be a 300-PRC hunting rifle. Looking for something sleeker than an MCS-T stock.
 
You could try to find a light rifle EFR. I think they are discontinued now, but they were made for skinnier forends, like the MCS-T. I don't know how much slimmer you could go.
 
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its not cheap but at the cost of a slightly larger scope mount you get a solid night vision mount without modifying your gun
 
Spuhr makes something conceptually like that except the rail is low mounted and bolts onto the ISMS mount. However it’s not meant for use above 7.62. Is there a caliber/recoil limitation for the LaRue mount?
 
Would be a long action Remington clone, which overwhelmingly don’t have the lower rear bridge of the Remington. hence the issue.

What qualifies as heavy recoil?I would think a 12 pound PRC would be considered heavy recoiling for the purpose of the Spuhr A700.
 
Here's the SA REM700 of the Precision Reflex solution ... the LA version is the same, except for LA.

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Get on the phone with PRI to pick the best version for your setup. Like if you have low rings and wanna keep em. Mine is flat cause I use high rings, since I shoot mostly at night and night clipons are generally 1.5 center.

==
 
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Going back in time ... I briefly used the KRG NV mount on the Spigot on the bravo ...

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It was temp solution until I could get the A-700, but the A-700 didn't work 'cause my main clipon is a right latcher and the a-700 wants to work with left latchers, so wound up going with the pri rail since in the pic the clipon is farther forward than I want. I want it mounted as close to the day scope as possible. But with a 30, which is longer, you wouldn't have that issue.
 
But I agree with King. I plan all my purchases to align with the idea that ALL my rifles are required to be able to mount clipons, at least of the inline variety. And I require at least the stoners, to be able to mount SIMRADs, they wind up with the shorter scopes. With a 203 if you remove the light shade entirely, you can make it work with almost any scope.
 
The King said it best. Think farther down the road and future builds. Once you get into this night time thing. No turning back. Save up and do it the way you want it. Lots to learn on this topic. And Wig, Kill switch engage The King, Surgeon Shooter have helped me on several fronts.
Good luck
 
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I have an AXMC but with KAC making 6.5 gas guns I’m wondering if I wouldn’t be better off with an SR and a 300 PRC for long range steel and hammering moose at mid range. That’s why I ask.
 
is the URX4 stiff? I have a Raptar ES Which I would mount above the optic and if I sell the AXMC I want to get an SR-25. If I have to I’ll start in 308 and rebarrel to 6.5 when it becomes available. Definitely going to get a Christmas tree reticle regardless of which rifle. Probably ZCO. Thoughts? I can always get a purely sporting rifle for moose popping.
 
I was handling MWS’s at the gun shop today. I have experience with the MRP back to 2004/5 and like them but never liked the switch barrel function. Don’t like messing with zero. And the weight is a bit much. But they are hell for stout and the barrels are quality. Has anyone cut a 6.5 back? 24” is more than I need.
 
Most options are already covered here by the experts.
I would add maybe look into a McMillan a3-5 stock with efr rail.
At one time I looked into the above mentioned routes and it struck a good compromise between ease of mounting, and keeping a somewhat slimmer profile.
Long action 300 prc will work in it.
Horsepower to spare 24 hours with that pvs-30.

At one time I believe the Larue stomp mount was only a LEO only purchase item.
Along with the simrads they make for a taller not so slim package. I never could get past that aspect when some came up for sale in the past.
If your packing the rifle around at night on foot very far or in a pack of some sort, in and out of a vehicle often a slimmer lower profile is the way to go IMO.
 
Long rifle inc is developing a smaller version of the badger efr for slimmer stocks. I am in line for the first one that’s going into a hs precision stock. It’s for a pvs 27. And hope to have a side rail for a peq15.
 
1. function- we have ran into many times over the years hunting in extreme conditions to include heavy rain, ice etc and had fail to fire, fail to eject/extract, bolt override/double feed etc that require more than simple tap rack bang. the darkness compounds these issues while trying to save a hunt and get the gun back up.

2. they just plain aren't as suppressor friendly especially the big frame high pressure rifles such as 6mm/6.5cm. they can work with tuning etc but theyre always overgassed and dirty as hell.

3. they don't suppress as well for sound and for us that's something we really want.

4. we typically make anywhere from 10-12 sets per night. that's 20-24x in and out of the truck. chambering and unloading gassers just isn't anywhere as smooth, quiet and efficient as a bolt gun.

5. press checking a gas gun sucks. most people do it wrong any how where they actually pull the bolt out of battery to check for a round. many times they do not get the bolt fully back into battery resulting in a ftf. the smarter way is to check which side of the mag your round is on before insertion, chamber the rifle then recheck the mag confirming the round is one the other side. alas, many don't do or know this trick. when we guide gasser dudes this is our rule and our way.

there are probably more that are my pet peeve but these are what I feel factual differences for night work.
 
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Yep, the noise of an AR in the dead of the night made me go back to a bolt gun. My buddy hunted with his Scar 17 one night and the coyotes heard that thing a few counties over. I had a 556 AR that froze up on me one night. Mostly my fault in and out of a warm truck to sub zero stands, but I think the firing pin locked up. Trigger fell but no bang on 3 rounds. Haven’t had that happen on a bolt gun.
 
My comfort zone is with ARs and I shoot more rounds through them than with anything but a 9mm handgun. I learned the right way to press check from Pat in 2005, my climate is temperate and to the extent that I use vehicles while hunting it’s an ATV and the guns aren’t likely to be unloaded. Probably not going to experience the issues described although I absolutely understand them.
Gonna throw the AXMC up for sale when the 300NM barrel I ordered gets here and proceed with a KAC.
 
I use both, because I want to "force" myself to use a spectrum of gear ... I am not as focused on optimizing a particular activity as I am increasing breadth and depth of experience across the gear spectrum.

I call them "stoners" ... but I think my meaning is the same as what others are calling "gas guns".

They are certainly dirtier ... though that isn't particularly a night issue :)

And after several years of catching blasts of "soot" in my aiming eye when shooting stoner RIFLES suppressed, I got both my stoner rifles a PRI "gass buster" charging handle ... and no more "blasts" of soot in the eye ... for some reason the 5.56 SBRs don't have the "soot in eye" problem, only the two rifles 5.56(18) and 7.62(20) did ... and the charging handle fixed.

I've spent a lot of time "tuning" the function ... to avoid various versions of stove-pipe or other FTF issues due to imbalance in the systems. And got both rifles working now for 11 months with no issues on the 5.56(18) ... I sold the GAP-10 7,62(20) so will have to start over when the new 7.62(20) Aero arrives. But I'm farther up the learning curve, so it shouldn't take as long.

All that said, I agree bolt guns are more reliable ... and off the tripod, I'd rather take a bolt gun ... though like I said I "force" myself to use the stoners as well, to be "well rounded" ... just like I now have two NV clipons as well as two thermal clipons ... there's a place for both.

As to weather, I recall one night I was out in an ice storm and didn't even figure it out until I got back to the house. But the thermal, apollo buttons iced up and I had to take my hand out of the glove and use my fingers to warm up the ice to be able to get to the buttons. Then the magazine froze in the mag well and I never got it out until 15 mins after getting back in the house ! So, yes, conditions can definitely affect function !
 
Where I would want to use a stoner over a bolt gun is hog hunting ... when you're facing a field of multiple sounders, you want more rounds in the gun ... in case some of them charge at you. Or just because there are lots of them. None of my bolt guns mags has > 10 rds ... my stoners have 20-30. Of course if your stoner jams up, then you have to pull your side arm ! I've fired over 10 rds in about 20% of the hog hunting engagements I've been in.
 
Now I think there's a guy on here who hunts hogs with an SBR BOLT GUN !!

@SkyScrapin come talk to us !! :D


Its getting a revamp, and that’s a new AI SR chassis when they release, cut the forend back to allow 11” barrel to protrude the threads for a suppressor. It will get a HALO-LR more than likely, but right now it’s setup with a 5-20 US and will accept the -30 on the new chassis setup.

Biding my time. It remains a day gun for the time being.
 
Edit to add, I really like SBRs and thermal for hogs, and a properly tuned system has given me zero problems on either front. Hogs generally offer several targets of opportunity wish pushed me to a gasser.

I tend to loan my gear to my amigos, so the bolt gun will be my primary if there’s more than two gunners.
 
If I could legally roll with my ARs loaded to each stand, I might favor them a bit more. They’re the easiest to mount things on and usually the lightest, most compact rigs with collapsible stocks.

I ran a 6.8 and a Valkyrie one winter season. ARs normally feel colder to me than my KRG 22-250. The metal 6.8 mags sucked to handle below freezing.

My 26” barreled bolt gun in a KRG chassis with PVS30, ATACR 4-16, Luna, and Radius is a monster to hoof around.

I’m patiently waiting on a 22 Creed barrel for my DT SRS A1 to cut down on the footprint while still having the positives of a bolt gun.
 
1. function- we have ran into many times over the years hunting in extreme conditions to include heavy rain, ice etc and had fail to fire, fail to eject/extract, bolt override/double feed etc that require more than simple tap rack bang. the darkness compounds these issues while trying to save a hunt and get the gun back up.

2. they just plain aren't as suppressor friendly especially the big frame high pressure rifles such as 6mm/6.5cm. they can work with tuning etc but theyre always overgassed and dirty as hell.

3. they don't suppress as well for sound and for us that's something we really want.

4. we typically make anywhere from 10-12 sets per night. that's 20-24x in and out of the truck. chambering and unloading gassers just isn't anywhere as smooth, quiet and efficient as a bolt gun.

5. press checking a gas gun sucks. most people do it wrong any how where they actually pull the bolt out of battery to check for a round. many times they do not get the bolt fully back into battery resulting in a ftf. the smarter way is to check which side of the mag your round is on before insertion, chamber the rifle then recheck the mag confirming the round is one the other side. alas, many don't do or know this trick. when we guide gasser dudes this is our rule and our way.

there are probably more that are my pet peeve but these are what I feel factual differences for night work.
I agree a 100%. I had more self induced problems trying to blend my quest for accuracy, shooting suppressed using NV on an AR. Bolt guns in my experience just are not as finicky in the dark.
 
I get that. The good news is there’s a lot of training for shooting ARs. Last AR centric course I took they handed me a rifle with a base over bolt malfunction and hit the timer. I had a double feed on my attempt to reload after clearing it and I cleared that too. Beep to bang was 12 seconds. And this was in the dark. So...it can be done.
That’s why I was wondering if I should stick to gas guns anyway.