Muzzle brake affecting shooting position?

[Hydrazine]

I'm a novice shooter who would like to learn long range shooting in the 500-1200 meter range. I went to a local shop to ask questions for a good bolt action rifle. We talked about rifle type, cartridge and possibly a muzzle brake to make shooting easier on the shoulder. I would like to do a lot of plinking with it on metal plates down range. Just to have fun and learn the process of hitting the target accurately and consistantly.

If I was to start with a bolt action 300 win mag set up I would like to put a muzzle brake on it to make it easier to shoot but the shop salesman suggested that I start WITHOUT a muzzle brake. He said the brake introduces a shooting position variable that makes it harder to learn. He said when a muzzle brake is used that I must align my center of gravity to the exact center of the rifles direction of fire. But if I don't use a muzzle brake I can put the stock against my shoulder without having to align it to my center of gravity.

I've never heard anything like this before. I know a brake will change barrel harmonics (which would require re-zeroing) but the salesman said a muzzle brake would make the learning curve a lot more difficult.

Is this true? Should I skip the muzzle brake?

 

[steve123]

Occording to his logic you should start off with a unbraked 50bmg then to speed up that learning curve even more.

Get a brake with ports off to the side if you'll be shooting off the ground.

 

[ShtrRdy]

Wow man! That's quite a piece of advice. I would think it might be opposite of what he says. But either way, if it was me, I would rather use a muzzle brake on a 300 Win Mag. It just makes it much more pleasant to shoot.

..... and like Steve suggested, get a brake with ports out to the side. The ones that have ports below really such when shooting from prone in the dirt/sand.

 

[Sterling Shooter]

Felt recoil comes after the bullet has left the bore. The muzzle brake redirects gas to change direction of this recoil from reward to forward. Thus, what the salesman said is wrong to the extent that the only thing the brake may screw up is the NPA for the shot to come. Still, a 300's movement while the bullet is in the barrel is more difficult to control consistently than something like a 260; and therefore unless you need a lot of energy and/or you are shooting at ELR, you might want to get a rifle chambered in a high BC round that simply produces less recoil. There will be no consequence; and, in fact, results should be better for many reasons.

 

[immelmann]

300 WIN MAG is a great way to develop flinch if it is your first Centre-fire rifle. As mentioned above, .260Rem will do the same thing trajectory wise to steel with much less recoil (hardly any with a brake).

 

[Hydrazine]

How would the 7mm compare to the .260Rem?

 

[lash]

You would do well in this case to listen to what Sterling Shooter and the others have said.

Actually, I think it would be wisest for you to spend a few weeks or so reading as much as you can on this forum and some of the other good long range forums before you go spending your hard-earned money (assumption) on something that you regret and have to do it all over again. Then get out to a range with whatever you have so that you can see what others are shooting and talk to them...the ones that are actually shooting out there and hitting what they aim at.

If your goal is truly just to shoot 500-1200 meters, then do yourself a favor and get a .260 or 6.5 Creedmoor (either will do fine) and your learning curve will likely be faster. Plus, your ammunition costs will likely be less (hand loading or not?). Is there a particular reason that you are wanting a larger bore rifle or is it just because you heard that those are what all the big boys are shooting these days? Right now, all the gun-selling sites are loaded with the .338 LM rifles that people bought as their first rifle once they heard that "snipers" use them. Sure, a .338 has it's purpose and can be fun to shoot, once you know how to shoot already, but it's not the rifle you should be learning on.

 

[EOD350]

As Sterling said shoot a .260 or 6.5 Creedmore and you will be much better off. I can use my .260 drop data for my .300 to some extent. I have out to 850. My first round hits
were close enough to not worry with it much. The recoil of a 260 or 6.5 Creed is very little w/o a brake, so with a brake recoil will be very light.

 

[Hydrazine]

I looked into 300WM was because I see it discussed a lot when long range is the topic but I'll study the .260 and 6.5 cartridges. If they kick less and are cheaper to long range plink with that's a good thing.

 

[Hydrazine]

If the choice is between .260 or 6.5 Creedmore which would you choose and why?

 

[steve123]

If the choice is between .260 or 6.5 Creedmore which would you choose and why?

If you don't reload then 6.5 Creed is the way to go. The cartridge does well even out to 1200Y.

 

[immelmann]

.308 WIN rifles can easily be rebarrelled to shoot .260 Rem, sharing the same action and magazines and stock etc... A 308 is cheap to run comparitively with good barrel life and cheap reloading components, but it isn't really a good long range performer. You could get a tired 308 that fits you, shoot the crap out of it until your skill level exceeds its performance and then rebarrel to .260 Rem for long range once you get medium ranges sorted.

 

[lash]

If you don't reload then 6.5 Creed is the way to go. The cartridge does well even out to 1200Y.

Nothing wrong with the 6.5 Creed, but the availability statement is no longer true. Yes, back in 2006, your statement would have been true, and it is true that there are more factory choices available (barely and if you can find them) for the 6.5 than the .260 Remington. However, there are a number of regular aftermarket sources of match grade ammo available for both of these choices these days that are likely better than factory offerings, so this much repeated statement really isn't true anymore in my experience.

A friend and I both shoot .260 and do not reload. In the past 6 months we've each put more than 1000 rounds of .260 downrange that was as accurate as anything available except a developed hand load. We still have more available and regularly order early to keep in shooting fodder.

Everyone who owns a 6.5 shooting rig has a strong opinion as to which of the many choices will float your boat best, but for the two in question, availability of good match quality ammunition is no longer an issue.

 

[Hydrazine]

I like the idea of getting a .308 and getting a different barrel to use the .260 or 6.5. Then I really could plink all day on a .308 and then switch to the .260 or 6.5 when ready.

Would this be a good rifle to start with or would it be over qualified for a novice?
GAP-10

 

[steve123]

Nothing wrong with the 6.5 Creed, but the availability statement is no longer true. Yes, back in 2006, your statement would have been true, and it is true that there are more factory choices available (barely and if you can find them) for the 6.5 than the .260 Remington. However, there are a number of regular aftermarket sources of match grade ammo available for both of these choices these days that are likely better than factory offerings, so this much repeated statement really isn't true anymore in my experience.

A friend and I both shoot .260 and do not reload. In the past 6 months we've each put more than 1000 rounds of .260 downrange that was as accurate as anything available except a developed hand load. We still have more available and regularly order early to keep in shooting fodder.

Everyone who owns a 6.5 shooting rig has a strong opinion as to which of the many choices will float your boat best, but for the two in question, availability of good match quality ammunition is no longer an issue.

I only went to midway for a quick check on price. Here was average price per box for each. I suppose things have changed as 260 ammo has a wide selection now.

6.5 Creedmoor | Rifle Ammo | Ammo 6.5 Creed $32.27

260 Remington | Rifle Ammo | Ammo 260 Rem $45.44

 

[lash]

I see what you mean about prices there on Midway. I've purchased most of mine through Southwest Ammo and paid an average price right about what the 6.5 Creed is in your post, but right now they are also only offering premium loads using Lapua brass, so theirs are also in that $45 range right now.

It's a good thing I can get my 1000+ pcs. brass reloaded there with premium scenars for $0.89 each, as that is a bit rich for me.

 

[390fe]

You could get a tired 308 that fits you, shoot the crap out of it until your skill level exceeds its performance and then rebarrel to .260 Rem for long range once you get medium ranges sorted.

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