Looking to install a brake on my .260 Does anyone have a preference? Been looking at several and have no idea how to choose one, looked at several ranging in price from 36.00 to 165.00. Only shooting holes in paper, trying to minimize barrel jump
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Muzzle brake choice
- Thread starter kish
- Start date
Don't be afraid of the lower end brakes.
I put this one on my .308 and it works extremely well for the $$ spent - 308 308 TPI Competition Compact Muzzle Brake for 5 8"x24 Pitch Free Washer | eBay
I just didn't see the benefits of spending a Benjamin or more for a brake.
YMMV
Steve
Like most things, the first 50% of your money gets you 80% of the performance, diminishing returns kick in past that point. There is an article out there that attempted to quantify the amount of recoil reduction from each muzzle brake tested and the results were pretty interesting. The inexpensive Miculek brake managed to stay close to the big boys like JP and SJC Lund that cost 50-100% more. The test platform for this was on an AR-15 which may lead to different results with a bigger cartridge like .260. With more gas coming down the barrel there is more for the brake to work on which means you may see the gap get larger with JP and SJC brakes, but maybe not. That's a question for someone with more experience than me . Either way, you don't have to spend a fortune to get an effective brake. Here are the links to those articles
http://www.multigunmedia.com/pk-compensation.pdf
AR15 Compensators pt.2
http://www.multigunmedia.com/pk-compensation.pdf
AR15 Compensators pt.2
On my 260 I have used the RAD brake, Little Bastard and many others which are all great. But for the money the $69.00 Badger Ordnance is the best deal going. I can not noticeably tell the difference in recoil between them just shooting. Heres a link Thruster Compensator (.22 cal. up 3/4-28 Thread) | Badger Ordnance
Does the porting on them have any ill affects on accuracy? Looked at a few that had different porting paterns full 360 and some no porting on the bottom. The no porting on the bottom made sense not to kick up dirt and keep the muzzle down but does that create an unbalanced discharge condition (like a bad crown) on the projectile or is the bullet ahead of the expanding gasses enough it doesnt matter. I am probably over thinking this thing!
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Most effective brake that I have used is a JP enterprises recoil eliminator. It is also uglier than home made sin. I have one on my son's 260, one on my 6.5-06, and one on a 338 rum. They are kind of like the really ugly girl that can dance. They get the job done but damn!
It may not be easy to judge recoil reduction on small and mid range calibers. I have a FTE on my 338, fired 5 rounds then threaded on a APA Fat Bastard and there was a noticeable difference in reduction with the FB. You cant go wrong with the LB or FB
Some brakes do more harm than good, even some very expensive ones.
Skip long brakes with narrow passages and complex bleeding patterns that do nothing for you.
This is what I look for on a brake:
-Short
-Light
-2 sets of wide ports. 3 is ok as soon as it doesn't add too much weight and length.
-Plenty of bleeding with large ports on a logical pattern.
-flush with crown or close to flush in the first chamber. Can quickly clean debris w/o need to dismount.
AI and Badger makes the most efficient brakes but they are expensive.
You can get the similar results from a Hollands quick discharge.
Holland's Quick Discharge Muzzle Brake 5/8-28 Thread SS
PRI is also a great performer for folks on a budget..
PRI Muzzle Brake Quiet Control 5/8-24 Thread AR-10 LR-308 Steel Matte
The brand doesn't matter as soon as it is well cut with the proper dimensions. Avoid baffle walls wider than the caliber shot
and specially any passages narrower than the caliber diameter + 0.20. Concentricity is key and make sure that is well
indexed and locked so it will not walk on you.
I think in Ebay one might find some at a good price with decent dimensions but I also see a lot of garbage with cuts
and patterns that do not make any sense. They look cool that is what many folks are looking for.
Ideally if one can have the threads cut to the widest possible section and a brake to match and the passage cut to the proper
caliber dimension to get the most out of that brake, that would be perfect. But the most important thing is, even
if one doesn't get the most performance, one should avoid certain designs that actually interfere with the accuracy
potential of the rifle.
The best possible patterns today do not differ much from the best ones designed after 1900. The physics involved
continue to be the same.
Skip long brakes with narrow passages and complex bleeding patterns that do nothing for you.
This is what I look for on a brake:
-Short
-Light
-2 sets of wide ports. 3 is ok as soon as it doesn't add too much weight and length.
-Plenty of bleeding with large ports on a logical pattern.
-flush with crown or close to flush in the first chamber. Can quickly clean debris w/o need to dismount.
AI and Badger makes the most efficient brakes but they are expensive.
You can get the similar results from a Hollands quick discharge.
Holland's Quick Discharge Muzzle Brake 5/8-28 Thread SS
PRI is also a great performer for folks on a budget..
PRI Muzzle Brake Quiet Control 5/8-24 Thread AR-10 LR-308 Steel Matte
The brand doesn't matter as soon as it is well cut with the proper dimensions. Avoid baffle walls wider than the caliber shot
and specially any passages narrower than the caliber diameter + 0.20. Concentricity is key and make sure that is well
indexed and locked so it will not walk on you.
I think in Ebay one might find some at a good price with decent dimensions but I also see a lot of garbage with cuts
and patterns that do not make any sense. They look cool that is what many folks are looking for.
Ideally if one can have the threads cut to the widest possible section and a brake to match and the passage cut to the proper
caliber dimension to get the most out of that brake, that would be perfect. But the most important thing is, even
if one doesn't get the most performance, one should avoid certain designs that actually interfere with the accuracy
potential of the rifle.
The best possible patterns today do not differ much from the best ones designed after 1900. The physics involved
continue to be the same.
I have a Little Jimmy on mine.
It probably doesn't need one, M24 profile barrel on a McRees folder... a 17 lb. .260 probably doesn't have much recoil to start with.
With the Little Jimmy, it's somewhere between a .22 LR and an AR-15. If I had the ammo and the time, I could shoot it all day, no exaggeration.
https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/products-page/muzzlebrakes/little-jimmy-muzzle-brake/
Joe
It probably doesn't need one, M24 profile barrel on a McRees folder... a 17 lb. .260 probably doesn't have much recoil to start with.
With the Little Jimmy, it's somewhere between a .22 LR and an AR-15. If I had the ammo and the time, I could shoot it all day, no exaggeration.
https://www.americanprecisionarms.com/products-page/muzzlebrakes/little-jimmy-muzzle-brake/
Joe
on precision I run a Badger FTE when the suppressor isn't on it. I would not buy a comp that has any ports in a downward direction like the 360 deg break you described. When laying prone you will create so much dust you probably won't be able to see your target
It works fine for what it is. Actually better than many with small holes and complex non-sense patterns.
Very short and handy and affordable. Double baffle would be better but this will not disappoint.
In some cases one might end up with a 18" carbine that might be actually shorter than some tacticool 16" carbines out there
with long and heavy brakes that screw up the accuracy and are impossible to clean.
Downward? ..360 degree, how is that possible? what do you mean? if you cut something 360 degree it will be totally sliced off like pepperoni! lol.
I was quoting his response and yes there are comps that have holes all around, they are holes or sections machined out. I would hope you are being sarcastic but incase you are being serious look at pics of different breaks and ones that have downward ports are going to suck on a precision rifle or any rifle for that matter that you shoot in a prone position. Go lay in dirt and shoot a rifle with a comp...it sucks ass!!!
Sorry to quote you. I thought you meant the wide baffle dual sided from Accuracy international, Badger or hollands I posted.
All those are indexed brakes so they will not pick up much dust and those are the most efficient patterns.
But I see, you mean radial patterns with little ports all over. Yes cute, bad, dusty, hard to clean and some very expensive.
All those are indexed brakes so they will not pick up much dust and those are the most efficient patterns.
But I see, you mean radial patterns with little ports all over. Yes cute, bad, dusty, hard to clean and some very expensive.
After reading a number of the threads here in SH, I put a Schuler on my .308.
ROSS SCHULERS PAGE
Can't beat the price and everyone who had used one had praise for them.
I had Mark at Short Action Customs do the install. $125 and 1 week turn around (INCLUDING SHIPPING).
ROSS SCHULERS PAGE
Can't beat the price and everyone who had used one had praise for them.
I had Mark at Short Action Customs do the install. $125 and 1 week turn around (INCLUDING SHIPPING).
Fte and ops inc brakes do a good job, makes 308 into 22-250. I also have had a brake done by SSS, it resembled a vias. It had multiple baffles and ports all the way around. It didn't kick up anymore dust then a fte. I never shot in the desert with it but in August it wasn't any worse. It also was less obnoxiously loud then the ops or fte. For pure recoil reduction, no regard for noise the fte wins. No experience with a fat bastard.
The Bastard line of brakes from APA for sure. My friend has a similar looking style brake on his and we swapped them around with my LB. The APA LB has outperformed just about any brake I have tried.
