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Everything great about a low recoil gun is even better when it recoils less. Balance the rifle on a fence post and watch the trace out to the 500 yard steel. Instead of a one mil jump while prone at the 100 yard line watch the hole appear in paper in real time. Shooting that 300 yard raccoon off the front porch you can see where the fur flew off instead of just seeing it drop.
It's like putting R compound tires on your sports car. Just because it was great before doesn't mean you can't make it better.
So you changed the question to fit your incorrect answer. Lol got it.
You dont need permission from the local leo.Doesn't change the fact that you still need permission from the feds and your local LEO to get one.
You dont need permission from the local leo.
Nice deflection from your original question. Does it really need an answer?Do you need it from the ATF?
It’s also the nature of forums to not admit when you’re wrong.It's the nature of forums now.....
Why do work when you can just sit down and ask to be told?
That fact wasn’t in question. The traveling was and brought up by you. Just stop. Your embarrassing yourself. LolDoesn't change the fact that you still need permission from the feds and your local LEO to get one.
I've shot a few suppressor QD brakes but never done anything close to what I'd call testing. Out of the non QD brakes I've tested extensively, Precision Armament Hypertap is top of heap, with the Little Bastard and Ultradyne Apollo Max close behind. M4-72 and SJC Titan perform well for the dollar but are more blasty than most. Seekins ATC is one of the least blasty but reasonably effective brakes I've owned. I could probably talk about a dozen others but with the exception of the standout or unique ones above they're all pretty similar.So besides the Heathen--what are the other preferred brakes for .223? With all the other filthy animals using them (so uncivilized), my 'friend' would be curious as to good ones for AR style rifles. MaybeI willhe will slap that brake on for QD supressor after all.
@TonyTheTiger @Rob01
APA lil bastard. Its like calling in an airstrike.
As always depends upon your needs. If for a small youngster maybe just tarting our, maybe a muzzle brake. For other users, if you don't mind the cost/wait/dealing with BATFE asshats, maybe a suppressor. Otherwise, for inexpensive/quick route probably just put a flash suppressor on it like the military and 90% of other AR shooters, and go shoot. Not a lifetime decision. ARs are the Lincoln Logs/Legos/Tinker Toys of the gun universe. You can always try another option.Just completed my .223 build and I am on the fence about adding a muzzle brake or just going "naked" with a thread protector. Rifle is based on an Origin action and has a 26 inch Remington Varmint contour barrel in an MPA Hybrid chassis. Weight is about 13 pounds with scope and rings (less mag and ammo).
Recoil is already pretty mild, so it may not be worth the effort and additional noise. Muzzle is threaded 5/8-24, so any brake recommended would have to fit.
Interestingly, the rifle seems to group a tad better with my Magnetospeed on the barrel. Maybe the additional weight is improving the harmonics? Could a muzzle brake have the same impact?
Any thoughts or experiences here are appreciated.
Or are Illegal shootiers in some locals where "Supressors" are illegal. Got a love NY - NO!Can confirm that people who shoot unsuppressed are uncultured filthy barbarian swine
Uhhhh no. Just no.When you have lost so much velocity going with a 26 inch barrel what use is a brake? I am curious all research I have seen shows 21-22 inches the absolute apex of velocity for 223. For distance shooting is the break going to be you baffle for a surpressor?
When you have lost so much velocity going with a 26 inch barrel what use is a brake? I am curious all research I have seen shows 21-22 inches the absolute apex of velocity for 223. For distance shooting is the break going to be you baffle for a surpressor?
When you have lost so much velocity going with a 26 inch barrel what use is a brake? I am curious all research I have seen shows 21-22 inches the absolute apex of velocity for 223. For distance shooting is the break going to be you baffle for a surpressor?
Have you not seen the expirementally proven data? Cut down a 223 to gain velocity. From 26-22 you actually gain velocity as you loose inches.
Ah yes,Have you not seen the expirementally proven data? Cut down a 223 to gain velocity. From 26-22 you actually gain velocity as you loose inches.
Ahhhh thats why all the FTR guys run 20" barrels then!! Genius!!!!Have you not seen the expirementally proven data? Cut down a 223 to gain velocity. From 26-22 you actually gain velocity as you loose inches.
I just had my Savage 12 in .223 Rem re-barreled for PRS matches and am I glad I had it threaded. I thought I did not need to install a muzzle brake on it because of the caliber. I did a quick test with it bare and with an Area 419 Hellfire self-timing brake on. It was such a huge difference. With the device I can actually watch my impacts.
Like the wimmins!When you are wrong, double down, then triple down then quadruple down.
Have you not seen the expirementally proven data? Cut down a 223 to gain velocity. From 26-22 you actually gain velocity as you loose inches.
With all due respect, I'm wasn't talking about shooting from the bench or a nice solid prone position. You should try shooting on a rooftop, tank trap, unstable barricade before you thump your chest and pull out your clit.With all due respect, you really need to work on your fundamentals if you can't spot your impacts with a .223 without a brake...
With all due respect, I'm wasn't talking about shooting from the bench or a nice solid prone position. You should try shooting on a rooftop, tank trap, unstable barricade before you thump your chest and pull out your clit.
you're joking right?With all due respect, I'm wasn't talking about shooting from the bench or a nice solid prone position. You should try shooting on a rooftop, tank trap, unstable barricade before you thump your chest and pull out your clit.
You don’t need permission to drive to another state with a can
With all due respect, I'm wasn't talking about shooting from the bench or a nice solid prone position. You should try shooting on a rooftop, tank trap, unstable barricade before you thump your chest and pull out your clit.
Just completed my .223 build and I am on the fence about adding a muzzle brake or just going "naked" with a thread protector. Rifle is based on an Origin action and has a 26 inch Remington Varmint contour barrel in an MPA Hybrid chassis. Weight is about 13 pounds with scope and rings (less mag and ammo).
Recoil is already pretty mild, so it may not be worth the effort and additional noise. Muzzle is threaded 5/8-24, so any brake recommended would have to fit.
Interestingly, the rifle seems to group a tad better with my Magnetospeed on the barrel. Maybe the additional weight is improving the harmonics? Could a muzzle brake have the same impact?
Any thoughts or experiences here are appreciated.
I have lots of big COCS and I love them….. I don’t love cocs, but my cocs I do #NoHomoYou Cult of Cans/Suppressors guys (COCS if you will) have really gotten weird. Every time I shoot a suppressed gun I wonder what all the fuss is about. It's cool, but so are DeLorean DMC12's and I don't want one of them at all.
Yessir, I’m well aware of the NFA rules and traveling with them. It was another in here inquiring about the rules and not knowing themUnless it's illegal in the other state, you don't need permission to go there with a can either. SBRs are another story.
You Cult of Cans/Suppressors guys (COCS if you will) have really gotten weird. Every time I shoot a suppressed gun I wonder what all the fuss is about. It's cool, but so are DeLorean DMC12's and I don't want one of them at all.