Suppressors muzzle brake off several degrees - matter for shooting with can?

[One_Shot]

howdy - building a new rifle and putting my TBAC brake on to allow for my Ultra 9. without using any of the supplied washers/spacers, the brake lines up about maybe a max of 6 or 7 degrees off center (eyeballing it). Does this matter if it'll Pretty much only be shot with the can on?

cheers

 

[hollowoutadime]

Crap. Misread/Misunderstood OP, my bad. Anybody seen my coffee? I think my shirt is inside out too.

 

[spife7980]

You mean of rotationally? Like the ports are a little more up or down from one another and shims would level them out? Shoot it, doesn’t matter.

Or do you mean linearly, as in he end of it comes in towards the bullets path? Go to a smith and run an alignment rod in to see if it’s really out or just your eye playing tricks on you.

 

[Shane C.]

howdy - building a new rifle and putting my TBAC brake on to allow for my Ultra 9. without using any of the supplied washers/spacers, the brake lines up about maybe a max of 6 or 7 degrees off center (eyeballing it). Does this matter if it'll Pretty much only be shot with the can on?

cheers

It doesn't matter.

 

[BurnOut]

While it would bug the hell out of me, it doesn't (functionally) matter (as long as, like spife mentioned, you're talking about rotational/axial alignment).

Not that it makes a hill of beans worth of difference, but I use scope mounting bubble levels to install my brakes. I clamp the barreled action in a barrel vise with one level on the rail, then shim the brake until the top flat is at 10:30 or so (from the muzzle end) when hand-snugged. Remove the brake, slather on my thread locker of choice, snug it back up by hand, then grab a wrench and tighten it, checking the top flat with a second bubble level until it matches (or gets damn close) to the one on the scope rail.

Yep, it's overkill... but in my mind, that's what it takes to do it "right".

 

[One_Shot]

yes rotationally - before the correct peel washer thickness has been installed. I figured since itll have the Ultra 9 on it, it wont really matter if its off a tad. But yes itll bug me too. ugh.

 

[Kevin Brittingham]

Doesn't matter. It's better not to use shims, crush/peel washers.

 

[Sniperwannabee]

Why?

 

[Kevin Brittingham]

Why?

They cause tolerance stack and misalignment.

 

[WVHick]

They cause tolerance stack and misalignment.

It's better to dissassemble your gun, send barrel to a smith, pay $150 to have a taper cut on it, miss two weeks of the shooting season, buy a Q suppressor, and redo your load development so that you get .00000000001" better alignment to the bore that you'll never even begin to notice in regards to your group size.

Don't believe me? Kevin will back me up.

 

[Kevin Brittingham]

It's better to dissassemble your gun, send barrel to a smith, pay $150 to have a taper cut on it, miss two weeks of the shooting season, buy a Q suppressor, and redo your load development so that you get .00000000001" better alignment to the bore that you'll never even begin to notice in regards to your group size.

Don't believe me? Kevin will back me up.

The taper gives you better alignment, but also keeps the silencer tight. The Q muzzle devices and silencers are reverse compatible with traditional 90% shoulders.