Gunsmithing Muzzle brake timing/machining question.

[LEG_X]

Evening guys,

I'm currently running an APA Little Bastard on my 6.5SLR that my 'smith timed. I measure about .530 of threaded barrel when I remove it. I'm wanting to try an Alamo 4 Star that have but I'm not sure if I should use peel washers to time it myself or take it in? The issue is that the 4 Star is bored out to about .81 in depth (APA is .53) then has a .284 opening for bullet travel. Is the extra dead space of about .31 before the opening going to cause problems or is it a non issue? Thanks for your advice.

 

[GasLight]

Professional, I would take it in to have it timed.

Redneck, I would file or hone the back end of the brake until it timed up. Then I would make sure it passed the rod test. I wouldn't personally worry about the 'free bore' in the brake as long as it passed the rod test.

Your call on the balance between budget, cosmetics, and risk...

 

[GH41]

If you have to ask... Take to the smith.

 

[Wannashootit]

Evening guys,

I'm currently running an APA Little Bastard on my 6.5SLR that my 'smith timed. I measure about .530 of threaded barrel when I remove it. I'm wanting to try an Alamo 4 Star that have but I'm not sure if I should use peel washers to time it myself or take it in? The issue is that the 4 Star is bored out to about .81 in depth (APA is .53) then has a .284 opening for bullet travel. Is the extra dead space of about .31 before the opening going to cause problems or is it a non issue? Thanks for your advice.

I always time this style brake so that the muzzle is flush with the back side of the first baffle. That said, the thirty thou will disappear if you elect to use a timing washer (I would use the Precision Armament Accu-Washer system over a crush/peel washer). Depending on your thread pitch you're at something in the neighborhood of 40 to 50 thou "travel" per full revolution of the brake.

If you have a smith nearby it's simple to have them face the brake so that it will clock correctly close to the baffle face (it would probably need to be re-crowned to get it exact depending on how it clocks on now but this isn't critical.

 

[Idaho CTD]

If it's close you can flat sand the back and do it yourself, not my recommended route but it works. 24tpi is .0416" per revolution or just over .010" per 90 degrees. If it's not within a few thou I would use peel washers or pay to have it timed. Most people can time a brake in 15 minutes or less depending on how slow they go at it. The .31" gap won't matter.