Rifle Scopes My inexpensive way of leveling scopes when mounted. (with pics)

elfster1234

elfster1234

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    • Jun 3, 2012
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    #1
    I recently had to re-mount & level my 1-4 vortex scope on my DPMS 3G1, so I figured I would share my technique for making sure your scope is 100% dead nuts level. I'm not saying this is what you should do, this is just what I do to make sure my scopes are tip top.

    You will feel a little play when first mounting the scope mount base to the main picatinny rail and before you tighten the base screws, push the scope mount base forward before you tighten the base screws. This will help counteract recoil and improve accuracy.

    I picked up 2 total inexpensive $1.25 each line levels from a local big box hardware store. The smaller the better & especially if they are in a nice aluminum housing as pictured. The home-made plumb bob I made with some string I had laying around the house with a heavy nut I didn't need & colored the end of the string with a black magic marker:
    IMG_7701_zpsaef0beae.jpg


    Doesn't hurt to verify your inexpensive mini-levels with a more expensive level before you do anything:
    IMG_7697_zps326b7f96.jpg


    Put your home-made plumb bob on any door handle. Gravity will do the rest just like the bullet fired out of your rifle:
    IMG_7720_zps3a3d2360.jpg


    It helps big time to have a swivel style harris bipod to level your rifle left to right. Doesn't hurt to level the rifle front to back either while in your rear sandbag. The main key is to make sure the mini-level that sits on the main picatinny rail is 100% level, and to position the rifle 90degrees to the plumb bob as best as possible before you adjust the scope obviously as shown in these pics.
    IMG_7762_zps10addd49.jpg


    IMG_7727_zpse870b112.jpg


    While the scope rings are still somewhat loose, adjust the crosshairs to match your plumb bob level line. Once they match perfectly, then tighten up your scope rings & you're ready to rock-n-roll. You might need to bring higher power scopes back further away from the plumb bob line than what is shown in this picture & might need to play around with your scope focus FYI:
    IMG_7748_zps52ddc33d.jpg



    sib1948 said:
    Exactly what I have done with many rifles. Just need to have a solid mount and straight rail with adequate cant in the rail or mount to get you to the distance you want to shoot, depending on your zero. This means selecting the right scope to start with and make sure your reticle is centered in the scope when you start! Make sure your mount is pushed forward in the grooves on your rail and when lined up appropriately (like in the pictures), then loosen mount nuts and scope scews one at a time, alternating sides and corners, add small amount of blue Locktite to all and torque to specifications that come with your mount. There should be slight gaps on each side of the rings when you're done! This will minimize ring marks,if you end up needing to swap or upgrade your scope. Really very easy and takes less tan 15 min. to accomplish. Remember you get what you pay for in scopes and mounts, so buy the best you can afford on your budget and can always easily upgrade later.

    I would highly recommend reading the Optics Selection Sticky in the Scope Section here on the Hide many times before you buy, so you have a better chance to get the right scope for the distance and type of shooting you plan to do! Will save you a lot of hassle in the long run. Precision rifles need the appropriate optic to perform at their best.

    Good Shooting
    Click to expand...
     
    Last edited:
    #3
    Exactly what I have done with many rifles. Just need to have a solid mount and straight rail with adequate cant in the rail or mount to get you to the distance you want to shoot, depending on your zero. This means selecting the right scope to start with and make sure your reticle is centered in the scope when you start! Make sure your mount is pushed forward in the grooves on your rail and when lined up appropriately (like in the pictures), then loosen mount nuts and scope scews one at a time, alternating sides and corners, add small amount of blue Locktite to all and torque to specifications that come with your mount. There should be slight gaps on each side of the rings when you're done! This will minimize ring marks,if you end up needing to swap or upgrade your scope. Really very easy and takes less tan 15 min. to accomplish. Remember you get what you pay for in scopes and mounts, so buy the best you can afford on your budget and can always easily upgrade later.

    I would highly recommend reading the Optics Selection Sticky in the Scope Section here on the Hide many times before you buy, so you have a better chance to get the right scope for the distance and type of shooting you plan to do! Will save you a lot of hassle in the long run. Precision rifles need the appropriate optic to perform at their best.

    Good Shooting
     
    #4
    Thats fantastic and will put into the OP if you dont mind.


    sib1948 said:
    Exactly what I have done with many rifles. Just need to have a solid mount and straight rail with adequate cant in the rail or mount to get you to the distance you want to shoot, depending on your zero. This means selecting the right scope to start with and make sure your reticle is centered in the scope when you start! Make sure your mount is pushed forward in the grooves on your rail and when lined up appropriately (like in the pictures), then loosen mount nuts and scope scews one at a time, alternating sides and corners, add small amount of blue Locktite to all and torque to specifications that come with your mount. There should be slight gaps on each side of the rings when you're done! This will minimize ring marks,if you end up needing to swap or upgrade your scope. Really very easy and takes less tan 15 min. to accomplish. Remember you get what you pay for in scopes and mounts, so buy the best you can afford on your budget and can always easily upgrade later.

    I would highly recommend reading the Optics Selection Sticky in the Scope Section here on the Hide many times before you buy, so you have a better chance to get the right scope for the distance and type of shooting you plan to do! Will save you a lot of hassle in the long run. Precision rifles need the appropriate optic to perform at their best.

    Good Shooting
    Click to expand...
     
    #6
    Basically the same technique I use. I was told that technique by a guy at NightForce. Nice job with the pics.

    I usually have a buddy with me to help keep things straight/level. Everything has to be perfectly level. I notice in your last pic that the bubble in the level is not exactly dead center.

    Also your levels have to be dead on and yours appear to be right there.
     
    #8
    I was pretty obsessed with making my scope perfectly level to the rifle a few years ago. I then read a thread where Lowlight was arguing somewhat against the practice. The scope reticle only needs to level with the fall of gravity because that's how the bullet falls. Meaning the rifle could be basically laying on it's side, but if the elevation axis of the reticle is aligned with the fall of gravity (plumb line), everything is correct.

    I now hang a plumb line and repeatedly address my rifle as I would in the field or bench. I level the reticle to the plumb line when I'm most comfortable on the rifle. It really doesn't matter if your scope is leveled to your rifle if you address your rifle and cant it slightly to be comfortable. You will shoot your best if your comfortable instead of constantly looking at your scope level and making sure your rifle is level before you pull the trigger.
     
    #9
    Thats actually a good point. Thanks for bringing it up.

    This is the way i look at it. You will never be able to constantly / consistently repeat the very same "natural" way you shoot your rifle with any type of repeatable level type accuracy.... Because of this i would rather have my scope set up perfect. I do not use an attached scope level either and still naturally shoot the rifle with what i think is level in my head. So far this method has worked rather well for me and i like the fact the elevation line is at a perfect 90degree angle to the flat picatinny rail.


    dang472 said:
    I was pretty obsessed with making my scope perfectly level to the rifle a few years ago. I then read a thread where Lowlight was arguing somewhat against the practice. The scope reticle only needs to level with the fall of gravity because that's how the bullet falls. Meaning the rifle could be basically laying on it's side, but if the elevation axis of the reticle is aligned with the fall of gravity (plumb line), everything is correct.

    I now hang a plumb line and repeatedly address my rifle as I would in the field or bench. I level the reticle to the plumb line when I'm most comfortable on the rifle. It really doesn't matter if your scope is leveled to your rifle if you address your rifle and cant it slightly to be comfortable. You will shoot your best if your comfortable instead of constantly looking at your scope level and making sure your rifle is level before you pull the trigger.
    Click to expand...
     
    Last edited:
    #10
    I now hang a plumb line and repeatedly address my rifle as I would in the field or bench. I level the reticle to the plumb line when I'm most comfortable on the rifle. It really doesn't matter if your scope is leveled to your rifle if you address your rifle and cant it slightly to be comfortable. You will shoot your best if your comfortable instead of constantly looking at your scope level and making sure your rifle is level before you pull the trigger.
    Click to expand...


    This +100. People obsess over everything being level and forget they are the biggest source of cant in the system. Do all of the above mentioned by the OP but instead of bagging in the rifle, get behind it into your normal firing position and then do it.
     
    #11
    For me, I had my 308 leveled in every aspect that can be had with non-aerospace levels. The scope was leveled to the gun and I had a scope level to tell me the gun was level. I would get behind the gun and get ready to fire. Everytime I was comfortable, the gun would be about a half bubble off of level. Didn't matter if it was prone or sitting at a bench. For a bit I was torquing the AICS to keep everything level. What a bad idea. I just had it in my head that everything needed to be level to shoot good. Now I just focus on being comfortable and the reticle always looks good on the target.
     
    #12
    I'm honestly asking a question and not trying to be cocky. It's hard to get that across when typing & texting. Anyway, how do you consistently set up, and then shoot with "what you think is comfortable OR level" that matches the way you set up the scope in the first place? Isn't that damn near impossible as we obviously are not computers with built in brain levels. Especially when you can be shooting on different level surfaces and what you think is comfortable / level on one surface could be totally different to the next & you would never really know if the comfortable method you set up your scope now matches the shot you're about to take out in the field. It's like impossible is it not? I'm all game for changing my method, but I'm trying to get a grasp on this logic. Like I said, I'm asking an honest question & not being cocky.

    Thank you for your input & love the discussion.

    Papa Zero Three said:
    This +100. People obsess over everything being level and forget they are the biggest source of cant in the system. Do all of the above mentioned by the OP but instead of bagging in the rifle, get behind it into your normal firing position and then do it.
    Click to expand...
     
    #13
    hmmm,,,, i'll need to look into this... Thanks for your advice.

    I totally see your point of view. It is just hard for me to grasp how you repeat the way you set it up when you first mounted the scope to when you take your shots in the field... somewhat like chasing your tail so its a moot point in my head so I'd rather have it 100% perfect. I'll look into this with my scopes. Thanks!

    dang472 said:
    For me, I had my 308 leveled in every aspect that can be had with non-aerospace levels. The scope was leveled to the gun and I had a scope level to tell me the gun was level. I would get behind the gun and get ready to fire. Everytime I was comfortable, the gun would be about a half bubble off of level. Didn't matter if it was prone or sitting at a bench. For a bit I was torquing the AICS to keep everything level. What a bad idea. I just had it in my head that everything needed to be level to shoot good. Now I just focus on being comfortable and the reticle always looks good on the target.
    Click to expand...
     
    #14
    So where can you find the levels. I'm not sure a "big box hardware" store is near me. I will look at Lowe's, Home Depot, and the local chain store. Anyone have luck at a Lowe's or Home Depot?
     
    #15
    I got them from menards,,,,, so if menards has them i'm rather sure home depot or lowes would have the same. If you can, take it out of the package and match it up with a more expensive one on the shelf IF you don't have a better level at home.


    Special_KG said:
    So where can you find the levels. I'm not sure a "big box hardware" store is near me. I will look at Lowe's, Home Depot, and the local chain store. Anyone have luck at a Lowe's or Home Depot?
    Click to expand...
     
    #18
    I think in all honesty, the best way to do it is this: I get behind my rifle in the prone position with it sitting on an Atlas bipod. I have a plumb line hung just as you have. I level the reticle to the line just as you have while I'm in my most comfortable position behind the rifle. I get off the rifle and then back on it repeatedly to verify that's my most consistent position. At this point I don't care if the rifle itself is perfectly level. I then install my scope level to jive with my reticle leveling.

    To use this in a real life field scenario where the ground is un-level, if my scope level says I'm level, then that means my reticle is level to where it was off the bench when I zeroed it. Again, it's really irrevelant if the rifle itself is level in any of these scenarios.
     
    #19
    elfster1234 said:
    I'm honestly asking a question and not trying to be cocky. It's hard to get that across when typing & texting. Anyway, how do you consistently set up, and then shoot with "what you think is comfortable OR level" that matches the way you set up the scope in the first place? Isn't that damn near impossible as we obviously are not computers with built in brain levels. Especially when you can be shooting on different level surfaces and what you think is comfortable / level on one surface could be totally different to the next & you would never really know if the comfortable method you set up your scope now matches the shot you're about to take out in the field. It's like impossible is it not? I'm all game for changing my method, but I'm trying to get a grasp on this logic. Like I said, I'm asking an honest question & not being cocky.

    Thank you for your input & love the discussion.
    Click to expand...

    Good question and the simple answer is the meat will always be the weakest link in the system. With that said, the shooter should practice getting into a consistently correct position IE: the basic fundamentals, and that comes from repetiton and coaching. But as inconsistent as we are in many aspects, you know what is and isn't comfortable and as long as you are comfortable behind the gun and the scope reticle is aligned to the fall of gravity, you have effectively removed your comfort induced cant from the equation as is humanly possible. Some chassis have adjustabe buttstocks/pads that can be adjusted /rotated to compensate for the shooter's natural shooting position to offset the user induced issues. Traditional stocks,not so much. So depending on your set up, there are a few ways one can go about keeping the reticle square to the fall of gravity and compensating for the shooters holding the weapon.

    Here is how LowLight explained it in another thread.

    Leveling the rifle is people's problem with canting... believe me this is where guys screw up. Our shoulder pocket does not want the rifle level. So you have to set the rifle up to your "Natural Position". After you properly address the rifle in your shoulder pocket, add the scope, and "Level the Scope" to the fall of gravity.

    If you get a bubble level, and then address the rifle and find your hold is off level, that is called a clue. Use the level to diagnose your position and don't force yourself to meet up to the rifle being level.

    The best level to use, is the Scope Tube Mount... rifle levels are not gonna help, unless you have an adjustable buttplate on your stock where you can adjust that to your shoulder pocket.

    If you are interested in staying level - level, meaning a level rifle and a level scope, the fastest and easiest way to accomplish this is with a set of feeler gauges, a deck of cards, (same principle) or using a mount that has a key like the Spuhr. Holding the bottom of the scope (the flat) level to the base on the rifle. But again, if you are constantly adjusting because the bubble is off, you should move your scope to account for this. What happens is, you check it, you're off, you adjust, then go back to looking through the scope and will subconsciously move back to off level. Believe me I have more still images of guys I photograph who try to be "level - level" that do this than I can post in a single thread.

    If you set the rifle up to your natural hold, does not matter your position, the rifle position will key off your shoulder and not the horizon, or some other thing, it will key off you... which makes that part subconsciously correct, as opposed to consciously corrected.
    Click to expand...
     
    Last edited:
    #20
    Hmmmm, thanks. I'll need to put some thought behind this. I'm not saying I totally agree with what you're / lowlight is saying & I think my fundamentals are rather solid,,,,,,,, BUT I totally see your point of angle. I'm an estimator by trade and all I deal with is #'s on a non-stop basis. My logic is massively rooted in making everything just "mathematically perfect" and knowing that its impossible to repeat your method is hard for my logic to grasp such an issue. I also know that my method listed above is impossible to match out in the field also & the reason why I think this is totally a moot issue being that I don't use a scope level (and most likely never will)....... then again, I totally see what you're trying to say... Even if you're fundamentals was handed to you by the gods, I still find it impossible to consistently take what you think is a comfortable / consistent / level shot over and over = why your method & my method is somewhat a moot point. If it's somewhat of a moot point, then I'd rather have the scope set up to be 100% level... I guess that is the way I look at it. I'll look into this and see what I think about it. I totally understand what you're trying to say tho. Thank you for your suggestions!

    Papa Zero Three said:
    Good question and the simple answer is the meat will always be the weakest link in the system. With that said, the shooter should practice getting into a consistently correct position IE: the basic fundamentals, and that comes from repetiton and coaching. But as inconsistent as we are in many aspects, you know what is and isn't comfortable and as long as you are comfortable behind the gun and the scope reticle is aligned to the fall of gravity, you have effectively removed your comfort induced cant from the equation as is humanly possible. Some chassis have adjustabe buttstocks/pads that can be adjusted /rotated to compensate for the shooter's natural shooting position to offset the user induced issues. Traditional stocks,not so much. So depending on your set up, there are a few ways one can go about keeping the reticle square to the fall of gravity and compensating for the shooters holding the weapon.
    Click to expand...
     
    Last edited:
    #21
    Good thread here, and great info. Another easy way that I use is if you purchase good quality Picatinny rails level your rifle on a Bipod and bags or a vise then, you can use a set of feeler gauges, slide it into one of the grooves of the pic rail under the flat spot of the scope after its lightly mounted in the rings, tilt the gauge up towards the bottom of the scope and make it completely flush with the bottom side of the scope. Note** by flush I dontmean you can turn a feeler gauge completely straight up and down under your scope, it will be slanted but if you look at a light on the other side of the junction of the gauge and the scope there should be 0 light visible as the bottom of the scope and gauge are perfectly mated. Then torque it down to spec, recheck, then your done. Quick, easy, always worked and been a trick I have used for years.

    And just to cover my tail you have to, HAVE to use quality equipment or this will not work. My gauges were made on a CNC at a machine shop in my town so I know they are 100% true. You don't have to go as far as I did but I'm a pessimist about my tools lol
     
    #22
    May I ask a question?
    I am a little confused...
    Let me show these two examples.


    #1: Lets assume we have a rifle that is LEVELED before scope is leveled. Aka "unfriendly" rifle position shooting:

    When bullet leaves the muzzle, it is directly UNDER the line of sight.
    When the bullet hits the target in my "zero distance", it obviously crosses the crosshair.
    When I shoot 1000y shot dialed on the scope, the bullet is again directly UNDER the scope and barrel.


    #2: Lets assume we have a rifle that is NOT LEVELED before scope is leveled. Aka "friendly/natural" rifle position with leveled scope.
    For example, imagine 45º canted rifle with scope reticle leveled.

    In this case (please correct me of I am wrong):
    When bullet leaves the muzzle, it is ASIDE the line of sight (bore isn't right under the scope).
    When it's shot on my "zero distance", it obviously go through the crosshair as I've set my zero in a such way.
    When I shoot 1000y shot dialed on the scope, the bullet is driven far to the SIDE and lower under the dialed scope crosshair, even leveled.

    That's bacause the bullet travels from SIDE through the line of ZERO aim and ends again to the SIDE and lower, because I wasn't dialing clicks against gravity, but against (canted) rifle angle.


    Is it so, or is there a huge mistake in my theory?
    Isn't this error why we try to level the rifles before scope mounting?
     
    #24
    leadbullet said:
    being doing the same thing for years, good technique bro.
    Click to expand...

    I like to use a strait edge, like a small ruler or a piece of a parting tool, put it between the scope and base, if the scope has a flat edge under the base, and turn the strait edge up until the strait edges push the scope into level relative to the base, the hold it there and tighten the rings.
     
    #25
    Starosta said:
    May I ask a question?
    I am a little confused...
    Let me show these two examples.


    #1: Lets assume we have a rifle that is LEVELED before scope is leveled. Aka "unfriendly" rifle position shooting:

    When bullet leaves the muzzle, it is directly UNDER the line of sight.
    When the bullet hits the target in my "zero distance", it obviously crosses the crosshair.
    When I shoot 1000y shot dialed on the scope, the bullet is again directly UNDER the scope and barrel.


    #2: Lets assume we have a rifle that is NOT LEVELED before scope is leveled. Aka "friendly/natural" rifle position with leveled scope.
    For example, imagine 45º canted rifle with scope reticle leveled.

    In this case (please correct me of I am wrong):
    When bullet leaves the muzzle, it is ASIDE the line of sight (bore isn't right under the scope).
    When it's shot on my "zero distance", it obviously go through the crosshair as I've set my zero in a such way.
    When I shoot 1000y shot dialed on the scope, the bullet is driven far to the SIDE and lower under the dialed scope crosshair, even leveled.

    That's bacause the bullet travels from SIDE through the line of ZERO aim and ends again to the SIDE and lower, because I wasn't dialing clicks against gravity, but against (canted) rifle angle.


    Is it so, or is there a huge mistake in my theory?
    Isn't this error why we try to level the rifles before scope mounting?
    Click to expand...

    The theory is sound, however- unless the rifle is absurdly canted and the scope is mounted absurdly high above the bore- the error down range is small enough not to make a difference. For example, if your rifle was canted such that ther was a 1/4 inch difference between the scope axis and the bore axis at the rifle (a rather large and noticeable angle) and the sight in distance was 100 yards, the error at 1000 yards would only be 2.5 inches. There are relatively few 0.25 moa group shooters on the 1000 yard line.
     
    #26
    hlee said:
    The theory is sound, however- unless the rifle is absurdly canted and the scope is mounted absurdly high above the bore- the error down range is small enough not to make a difference. For example, if your rifle was canted such that ther was a 1/4 inch difference between the scope axis and the bore axis at the rifle (a rather large and noticeable angle) and the sight in distance was 100 yards, the error at 1000 yards would only be 2.5 inches. There are relatively few 0.25 moa group shooters on the 1000 yard line.
    Click to expand...
    Thanks for reply, I was thinking about quite same cant you mentioned but I tried to calculate some either.


    Lets say the rifle could have common 2 inches from the bore axis to the scope axis - and a total height of 5 inches (from the bottom tip of recoil pad to the top of scope).
    I can imagine some can cant the rifle quite a lot to achieve "natural position" by moving the elevation knob for example 1 inch to the side (letting the bottom tip on spot).
    This would make the angle roughly 22° and a "barrel vs. scope" horizontal difference slightly over an inch, if my math is right.

    I know that 22° is a large and noticeable angle, but I think it can still be realistic to use such cant as a comfy position for some.
    So lets assume scope leveled on such positioned rifle...


    In that case, having 100y zero, what do we get with 1000y dialed in?
    If we have a side difference of 1 inch on shooting line, than zero-zero on 100y line, then at 200y it should be an inch to the side again - and for every additional 100y of distance 1 more inch of side difference.

    If I am right, it should be around 9 inches of horizontal error by clicking to 1000y.
    But, having the bullet flying to the side, the POI should be also lower - because our clicking didn't fight the gravity properly.
    (We were dragging the bullet to the side - more than up as intended.)


    Does it make sense?
     
    #27
    Starosta, you need to do a search on how to shoot on a cant, there are threads on it already(and you can avoid hijacking this thread topic further). Also,there is a mathmatical formula to figure the offset based on the direction the weapon is canted to. It works up to your zero range but at farther distances it gets more complicated and you should look at running a parallel bore zero by holding to the side by your sight height and use the bullet drop for the given distance as your elevation.

    Ie the bullet drop in inches for 100yds plus the mechanical offset of the optic should come out to something like(depending on your specific set up) .75mils(drop) + .5 mils= 1.25mils

    With the bolt/ejection port up the shot will be left 1.25mils of the POA and .75 low. So hold right 1.25 and .75 high for shots at 100yds. Do the math for your gun and distances and make a cheat sheet. If this still isn't clear to you, you can always use JBM as it allows you to put in cant value. Set JBM up so it matches your known dope with zero cant and then plug in 90 degrees or however much cant you want to figure for and it will spit out your firing solutions.
     
    Last edited:
    #29
    I use a different method. I get the reticle as level as I can with my eyes. I take a large white target backer to the range and draw a vertical and horizontal line. The vertical must be 90 degrees to the horizontal. Next I use a four foot level to get the horizontal line perfectly level. I then put a bullet or two at the intersection of the two lines. Crank the scope up two or more revolutions and shoot again. If the scope is level the bullet should hit the vertical line. I do this at 50 yds. It sounds more complicated than it is.
     
    #30
    You are right, but you can also sight in your rifle with the poi to the side the same amount as the reticle is offset from the bore. That way the bullet will be the exact same distance off out to maximum range.

    And in another thread, I figured out the offset, with a 10 degree cant, it worked out to be something like 0.3" I don't know about you, but 0.3" off to side at 1000 yards is minimal compared to the accuracy of your wind call.
     
    #38
    I have been using an angle cube instead of a bubble level and getting more consistent results when checking against a plumb line provided the turret is level to the reticle. I also like using orange paracord for the plumb line to get better contrast.
     
    #43
    Guys, I have a question about some of this. I am fairly new to the long range, but I have recently acquired a GAP .308 from a member here. I have my glass and went to set it up tonight,,,,, well I am getting a slight difference from the bolt rails and the Badger rail. I checked the levels and they are spot on with each other, but it appears the chamber rails and the top rail is slightly different. It is not major, but I am trying to learn which one to use. I am thinking the chamber, but wanted to see if you experts could help me out.

    Not trying to highjack the thread, but I did a search and thought my question may be appropriate here. Thanks!
     
    #46
    Coopracing said:
    Guys, I have a question about some of this. I am fairly new to the long range, but I have recently acquired a GAP .308 from a member here. I have my glass and went to set it up tonight,,,,, well I am getting a slight difference from the bolt rails and the Badger rail. I checked the levels and they are spot on with each other, but it appears the chamber rails and the top rail is slightly different. It is not major, but I am trying to learn which one to use. I am thinking the chamber, but wanted to see if you experts could help me out.

    Not trying to highjack the thread, but I did a search and thought my question may be appropriate here. Thanks!
    Click to expand...

    It doesn't matter, pick one and go.

    The IMPORTANT thing is to have the scope level/vertical when you shoot.
     
    #50
    For those wanting the scope to be level with the rifle, but keep finding that their firing position cants the rifle, I would suggest adding about a 1/2" to 1" pad on the butt plate. I used ammo can foam and 10mph tape to attach it. Keep it attached tightly, but not super tight, and after a few minutes of adjustments you can have it formed to your shoulder pocket.

    Now you have a scope that's leveled to the rifle, and a butt pad that sits in your natural firing position comfortably.

    If tape is too ugly, I'm sure you could make it out of leather or canvas. Same concept. Just my 2 cents from experience.
     
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