100%. Ordering some Vermont ZZ (I don't think Tolerance class X is necessary?) no-go gage pins now...
How many times have used this brass for firing? What kind of tension have you had in the past with this brass? Couple reasons for asking the questions; depending on the number of times fired, you may have work hardened your brass enough that the normal springback isn't happening. It may be time to anneal if this is the case. With that being said, it sounds like you have been shooting with fairly light neck tension up to this point for a 338L.
This is round #2 aka will be the 3rd firing...
If you are getting a reading of .365 with a loaded round, I would say you need to go down to at least a .363 bushing. Have you been shooting the rounds from a mag, or single loading them? If from a mag with several rounds in it, check the OAL of one of the rounds still in the mag after firing a round. Bet it is a different length than what you initially seated the bullet to.
Doesn't feel like they "fall" in or drag badly. Just kind of steady glide as I seat them.
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I agree. You might even be able to go down to a .361 and it might still feel like the .336 mandrel isn't doing too much (which is fine).
The amount of brass spring-back one gets is wonky and kind of impossible to nail down exactly, usually being in the ballpark is the best we can hope for, but we have to try and account for it. I usually start with (and most times end up with) a bushing that is: loaded round neck OD - .004, followed by a mandrel that is: bullet OD - .002... works every time 80% of the time
Everyone in this game needs to buy a set of gauge pins that they can check this info out on their cases if they are serious.
, and in a way it's kind of a questionable measurement since it's a moving target that's always changing...
When I got serious with benchrest shooting a couple years ago, I went to non-bushing dies and use these to lap out my dies for consistent roundness and what I want for initial neck tension when I size. http://www.acrolaps.com/I hear you on that, I've actually been meaning to order a couple Ballistic Tools Neck Tension Gages for a while but haven't gotten around to it...
That said, I guess for me the thing is: the amount of brass spring-back one gets case to case is still random, consistently inconsistent
And forever more I shall refer to this as the Sex Panther method!I agree. You might even be able to go down to a .361 and it might still feel like the .336 mandrel isn't doing too much (which is fine).
The amount of brass spring-back one gets is wonky and kind of impossible to nail down exactly, usually being in the ballpark is the best we can hope for, but we have to try and account for it. I usually start with (and most times end up with) a bushing that is: loaded round neck OD - .004, followed by a mandrel that is: bullet OD - .002... works every time 80% of the time
I'd kill for that set...
Great observations. Quick question regarding your methodology (which I'd like to adopt) ... What's the order? FL-Size, then Neck-Mandrel ... or vice versa?
If you put a mandrel in an fired case neck it will just float in space. You need to size it for the mandrel to touch anything.
"Doh!" ... sorry for the stupid question. Should have figured that one out on my own. Hopefully this question is smarter ... Do you mandrel every case, or just the ones that indicate concentricity issues after sizing?
I do every case. Consistency is the name of the game.
Got it ... thanks. I've got a die and mandrels for 6.5-CM, 300-(WM & PRC), and 338-LM on the way. Those are the four that I reaload.
I'm interested in that too but I'm going to have to order one of the holders that turns gage pins in to madrels. That is in process!
Agree 100%! I never thought about a bullet change making a difference but I can see where that can come into play! Great info! Thank you!
