Necking Turning - A Few Quick Questions

[Stangs55]

I'm thinking about getting into neck turning, but I have a few questions...

I'll be turning Lapua or Norma brass in 223, 308, 300 WSM, and 300 RUM.

1. I really only shoot out to 600 yards. Is there really any benefit to turning brass that is already high quality (Lapua and Norma) if I'm not reaching past 1000 and my chambers are not F class tight? I'm already 1/2 MOA with these rifles and loads.

2. I was planning on a K&M setup, but as per their website they offer pilots that cut and others that don't. I'm assuming this is for the donut...but there is little information on their website. So if I'm buying just one pilot per caliber when starting out...which should I get? Is it bad to use a cutting pilot in every neck turn?

3. Carbide? Yes/no? Worth it?

Thanks in advance.

 

[bunsen27]

Neck Turning Basics

1. It's probably not worth it IMO
2. Unless you are fire forming cases doughnuts should not be an issue. Also you will need the corresponding expander mandrel and die for each caliber.
3. no idea

 

[oldfatguy]

Have measured up to a 0.002" variation in the neck wall thickness on Lapua 260 brass. This was on one case, so it gets turned. I use a K&M setup, non-carbide, non cutting pilot, and recommended expander. Big help to use the chuck to turn the case in a power screwdriver, not drill/driver. Imperial Sizing wax makes a good lube for the inside of the case neck.

OFG

 

[17874]

Only turn necks if you need to for a tight chamber or necking cases up/down.

 

[DocB]

Stang,

1. You can use the carbide neck turner mandrel whether or not you use it to ream donuts. If you use the std. Expandiron, you won't do any inside cutting unless you use a bushing to size the neck to a tighter fit on the mandrel.

2. Buy once, cry once. The carbide doesn't gall as much if your inside neck lube isn't quite up to snuff. Then again, it can take longer to clean if you do allow brass build up. As you fire and anneal brass, donuts can form as the brass stretches. If you have the cutting mandrel, you can get rid of the donuts without buying another mandrel. For all the calibers you mention, you only need two mandrels and two ExpandIrons. .223 and .308.

3. See 1 and 2. Neck turning makes a difference if you pay attention to the other factors it takes to get good groups.

HTH,
DocB

 

[Victor N TN]

I turn case necks when I'm looking for absolute accuracy from my rifle. Of course for that to work correctly after you turn the necks you have to use a bushing die to control the neck tension.

I have had 4 neck turners. The one I believe is the best is Don Neilson's Pumpkin Turner: Nielson's 6.5x47 Nationals Winner Go to the bottom of the page. The difference between this unit and all the others I have used is like day and night. The carbide mandrels are worth it. I also have the case checker that is made like the turner. I like both units.

If you've ever checked loaded rounds and the bullet wobbles, one thing that causes that is the neck having thin and thick places.

If you want to get rid of "THE DREADED DOUGHNUT", get a HSS reamer just under the size of the bullet like : Chucking Reamers | MSCDirect.com

You can get them at cheaper prices. Since you will be cutting brass at low RMPs or by hand, one reamer will last you forever. Put some oil on the flutes before you start cutting with it. Use the reamer BEFORE you size the cases.

Good luck.
Victor

 

[6brshooter]

Don't really matter what price the "good" brass is, i had lapua 260 that was .004" variation and bought some 243 lapua a year later and it was .0055" variation. This was on 8-9 out of 10 cases checked, i checked some win 243 and it was .0015. Go figure . If u plan to run a bushing die without expander then i suggest turning nks. If just using a fl die then <.002" is ok for me unless point blank br is what i'm doing .

 

[former naval person]

Carbide good. Tried them both. Carbide wins. JMHO

 

[Deadshot2]

Case neck turning can yield benefits if for no other reason that you're making the neck uniform in thickness.

When you measure case neck runout on an unturned case how do you know that that "perfect" case actually has a concentric ID at the neck if you have uneven neck thickness? That question answers itself.

I turn necks on ALL my brass after the first firing after sizing. I use an RCBS case neck thickness mic and look for the case in a batch that has the thinnest area in the case neck. I then adjust my neck turning tool so it cuts at least 50% of the case neck area and no more than 3/4 (270 degrees of rotation). The rest of the cases in that batch are then turned using that setting.

This usually ends up with Lapua case necks (in .308 cal) being .014" finished thickness and Winchester brass at .012" thickness.

I also use a Forster Shoulder Bump/Neck Size Bushing Die so the even neck thicknesses yields great case concentricity as well as concentrically seated bullets. My average seated bullet runout is .001" or less. I am getting near benchrest accuracy at point blank ranges (100-300 yards) with a "Tactical" rifle.

Yes, neck turning is a pain at times but it does yield results in just about all rifles, not just those with tight necked match chambers. You can't expect uniform neck tension and concentricity unless you make sure the necks are the same thickness and the OD is concentric with the ID.

 

[pjparker]

Lump together what OFG, DocB, Victor N TN, and Deadshot2 said, and you just about have it all. No need to look any further.

I neck-turn to knock off the high side as Deadshot describes for almost everything I shoot except for .223 in XTC competition. I can't hold hard enough to tell ANY difference, there.

For me No-Carbide works fine. Just keep the mandrel lubed ( Hornady one-shot or Imperial).

Dive in, the water's fine !

Paul

 

[Deadshot2]

For me No-Carbide works fine. Just keep the mandrel lubed ( Hornady one-shot or Imperial).



Paul

I use 80W-140 gear lube. A small bottle cap with a few drops in it and wet a q-tip. A quick swab with the q-tip in the neck and there's no chance of any galling. Since the lube has to be removed anyway, regardless of what you use, I just drop my cases in an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick 3 minute cycle. Rinse in hot water then put in loading block, neck down, for an overnight drying session.

My expander mandrel and turning mandrel are close in size so the cases are nice and tight when being turned. The Gear lube works best for me and the results are a nice uniform neck thickness-------every time.

 

[pjparker]

Deadshot -

I like the gearlube and Q-tip idea. I stayed away from the liquid lubes 'cause I always got too much slopped all over. I will be trying this !

Paul

 

[Deadshot2]

Deadshot -

I like the gearlube and Q-tip idea. I stayed away from the liquid lubes 'cause I always got too much slopped all over. I will be trying this !

Paul

Sometimes I just wipe the mandrel with the q-tip. Only have to hit one side of it as the case will distribute it the rest of the way as you turn.