I got the scope yesterday and took it to a friends house in order mount it and level it. we were getting close to dark and I forgot about how you zero these. I picked the scope up second hand from a member here and it was in really good condition. I checked to see if he had the zero stop set and he did. When I got to buddy's I checked the zero stop again and it was gone. I didn't twist beyond the resistance the first time but it was no longer there. I figured maybe the previous owner did have the set screws twisted tight. So I had a little day light left and I started to zero the scope like you would with a PST. The when it was dark and I finally had it zeroed it dawned on me you don't zero the Razors like the PST. So I figured I could pull off the turret and set the zero stop and when I could get to the range again set the zero stop like the instruction say. When we went to tighten the zero stop it would still spin, it would not lock. Is there something internally wrong or am I doing something jacked up? I am going to go to the range tomorrow after noon and try zero it like I should have the first time but I don't know how I should go about it now as I can't seem to find where it locks at. Any suggestions?
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Rifle Scopes need a little help with a Gen 1 razor
- Thread starter GhostFace
- Start date
Yeah I watched it but the scope lost the zero stop before I started to zero. I should have went to the zero stop (which this didn't have), took off the turrets and loosened the screws to the zero stop and moved the turret to zero. Tighten the zero stop screws and put the turret back. Or at least that is how I understood it from the video. With it not having a zero stop to start from I think I am screwed or maybe not, that is what I am trying to find out...
I have a Razor and it is very easy to set.
Step 1 : spin the turret down till it stops on the set Zero
Step2: remove the Turret cap
Step3: loosen the 3 screws
Step4 : you will lose the clicks but the adjustments are still there . Sight in/Zero the scope then tighten up the screws
Step5
ut cap back on and your new Zero stop will be set
Step 1 : spin the turret down till it stops on the set Zero
Step2: remove the Turret cap
Step3: loosen the 3 screws
Step4 : you will lose the clicks but the adjustments are still there . Sight in/Zero the scope then tighten up the screws
Step5
ut cap back on and your new Zero stop will be set
You might have to call Vortex and discuss it with them.
But you might try this.
1. Remove the Turret Cap
2. Loosen the 3 screws
3. Turn the outside collar down until it stops. This is the zero stop.
4. Adjust the center screw to zero the scope.
5. Tighten the 3 screws on the collar.
6. Install the Turret Cap with zero aligned and tighten outside screws.
But you might try this.
1. Remove the Turret Cap
2. Loosen the 3 screws
3. Turn the outside collar down until it stops. This is the zero stop.
4. Adjust the center screw to zero the scope.
5. Tighten the 3 screws on the collar.
6. Install the Turret Cap with zero aligned and tighten outside screws.
The marks on the inner turret are for reference, the "0" isn't necessarily where the stop is. With the cap on say your zero stop is 3 mils below where you want it. Pull the cap off, loosen the screws, dial the stop turret up 3 mils from where it is now. If the inner turret reads 1.2, you need to set the stop to 4.2 to move it up 3 or whatever it needs to move.
Pull the cap off, tighten up the inner turret screws, snug + a quarter turn or so. Put the cap back on with zero facing you. Dial the turret up and down until you find the stop, note where you are like I said, are you 3 mils high, 5.3 low, what. Then follow the instructions above. The marks on the inner turret are for reference only. So that you know how far you are moving the reticle, which is what the inner turret does, in relation to where you want it from the zero stop. The zero stop as I understand it on the Gen 1 Razor doesn't move. Its set in place. You move the reticle in relation to the stop.
You need to have the inner screws tight, I'm not going to give you a number how tight, but probably tighter than you think. If those loosen up you will dial click click click and then the cap will spin and your zero will be lost. Nobody wants to crank on tiny screws of scope internals, and I'm not telling you to, but if you are losing the zero those screws may need to be tighter. Its not anything that's never happened before.
Pull the cap off, tighten up the inner turret screws, snug + a quarter turn or so. Put the cap back on with zero facing you. Dial the turret up and down until you find the stop, note where you are like I said, are you 3 mils high, 5.3 low, what. Then follow the instructions above. The marks on the inner turret are for reference only. So that you know how far you are moving the reticle, which is what the inner turret does, in relation to where you want it from the zero stop. The zero stop as I understand it on the Gen 1 Razor doesn't move. Its set in place. You move the reticle in relation to the stop.
You need to have the inner screws tight, I'm not going to give you a number how tight, but probably tighter than you think. If those loosen up you will dial click click click and then the cap will spin and your zero will be lost. Nobody wants to crank on tiny screws of scope internals, and I'm not telling you to, but if you are losing the zero those screws may need to be tighter. Its not anything that's never happened before.
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One other thing might be happening here is if you loosen the three set screws on the inner cap, and the turret is not stopped against the zero stop, that may require re-clocking the zero stop mechanism.
I'll try to explain this as best I can so you can hopefully get going right away.
The way the mechanism works is there is a stop collar inside the turret. This collar has the clicker mechanism built into it, but it is a separate piece from the adjustment screw. The three set screws on the inner cap are what clamp the adjustment screw and stop collar together. When they are loosened the collar is free to rotate, or even fall down inside the turret housing if it isn't against the stop surface.
What can happen is if the three set screws are clamped and you adjust the turret up, the stop pin on the stop collar is no longer necessarily aligned with the stop surface. So if you loosen the three set screws without being against the zero stop, the collar is free to fall to the bottom of the turret chassis. Once that happens, as soon as you re-tighten the three set screws and dial down the stop pin will actually hit the bottom face of the turret chassis first, instead of hitting the stop surface on the side of the pin. This makes for a mushy stop, instead of a nice hard stop.
Fortunately, the fix is easy:
1. Remove the outer cap
2. Loosen the three set screws on the inner cap.
3. Remove the two screws in the top of the inner cap.
4. Remove the inner cap.
5. You will see the adjustment screw in the middle. This is what the two screws in the top of the inner cap screw into. The stop collar is the brass collar on the outside of the adjustment screw. Grab the stop collar and rotate it clockwise, while pushing down on it, until it hits the zero stop. You should feel it clicking as you rotate it.
6. Replace the inner cap with the two screws in the top.
7. Sight in with the inner cap. You should not feel clicks (the three set screws on the inner cap should not be tightened yet).
8. Tighten the three set screws on the inner cap after sighting in.
9. Replace the outer cap, setting it to zero, and tighten the three set screws on the outer cap and you're done.
The key is to remember than any time you loosen the three set screws on the inner cap make sure the turret is FIRST turned until it hits the zero stop. If not, the collar just falls down and is no longer clocked to the stop and you will have to repeat the above procedure to re-clock it.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks.
Sam
I'll try to explain this as best I can so you can hopefully get going right away.
The way the mechanism works is there is a stop collar inside the turret. This collar has the clicker mechanism built into it, but it is a separate piece from the adjustment screw. The three set screws on the inner cap are what clamp the adjustment screw and stop collar together. When they are loosened the collar is free to rotate, or even fall down inside the turret housing if it isn't against the stop surface.
What can happen is if the three set screws are clamped and you adjust the turret up, the stop pin on the stop collar is no longer necessarily aligned with the stop surface. So if you loosen the three set screws without being against the zero stop, the collar is free to fall to the bottom of the turret chassis. Once that happens, as soon as you re-tighten the three set screws and dial down the stop pin will actually hit the bottom face of the turret chassis first, instead of hitting the stop surface on the side of the pin. This makes for a mushy stop, instead of a nice hard stop.
Fortunately, the fix is easy:
1. Remove the outer cap
2. Loosen the three set screws on the inner cap.
3. Remove the two screws in the top of the inner cap.
4. Remove the inner cap.
5. You will see the adjustment screw in the middle. This is what the two screws in the top of the inner cap screw into. The stop collar is the brass collar on the outside of the adjustment screw. Grab the stop collar and rotate it clockwise, while pushing down on it, until it hits the zero stop. You should feel it clicking as you rotate it.
6. Replace the inner cap with the two screws in the top.
7. Sight in with the inner cap. You should not feel clicks (the three set screws on the inner cap should not be tightened yet).
8. Tighten the three set screws on the inner cap after sighting in.
9. Replace the outer cap, setting it to zero, and tighten the three set screws on the outer cap and you're done.
The key is to remember than any time you loosen the three set screws on the inner cap make sure the turret is FIRST turned until it hits the zero stop. If not, the collar just falls down and is no longer clocked to the stop and you will have to repeat the above procedure to re-clock it.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else. Thanks.
Sam
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If you are careful, you might be able to get the zero stop reset without moving your zero. Just make sure you don't turn the adjustment screw at all when you re-clock the stop collar.
Actually, you might even be able to get away with the adjustment screw turning a little, as long as you make note of where the inner cap is referenced before you take it off and you put it back at the same spot when you put it back on. Also, make sure you don't put the cap back on 180 degrees from where it was. Maybe try marking the top of the adjustment screw with a sharpie or something so you can watch it while you turn the stop collar. If you are careful, you should be able to re-clock it and have everything still zeroed.
All the more reason that I choose Vortex Optics... Fantastic customer service, second to none warranty!!
DK
DK
There is absolutely nothing wrong with his scope. I am just helping him use it properly.
i did not say there was. i said vortex owners use the warranty a lot. my gen 1 just came back from warranty repair with something on the ocular lens on the inside and it will not track. so i get to use there great warranty and customer service again. i dont know how the warranty is on my swfa i have never used it. i know everything breaks. lets hope they get it right this time.
I'm sorry there is a problem with your scope. Send me a private message with your contact info and let me know when you send it in so I can look at it personally. I look at the return rates and I can tell you they are low. It is rare for a Razor not to track properly, so I would like to test it on our equipment myself to see what is going on and to make sure we get everything right when we send it back to you.
PM sent. i dont doubt that the failure rate on the razors is very low. sour grapes sorry.
No worries. I can understand the frustration and will make sure it is taken care of ASAP.
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