Need A Lot of Help on 22-250 Build

[[email protected]]

To break this down as easy as possible. I’m looking to build a new rifle for varmint hunting. Mainly coyote and bobcat in 22-250 caliber. I was looking at the manners t4a or t5a stock or the MPA Ba stock, the bighorn TL3 ACTION (although I’m open to other brands that are known to be more accurate), an 18” threaded barrel (open to brands), a jewel trigger, etc... I’m a little confused on the bottom metal and magazine well choice, and a few other things. If I go to manners I can build my stock to match the action... that being said, do I still need to have the action bedded to the stock or is that already done when ordering on the manners website? This is my first build that I’m trying to put together myself. What’s the difference between AI mags

Is it worth doing myself, or cheaper/less of a headache just to pay someone to do?

Someone bid this project at $5400-$6000 and after just buying a ZCO for $3,500 and having to buy another scope for this project, I’d like to keep price down as much as possible.

 

[Codiekfx400]

That’s a lot of questions. The TL3 will be just as accurate as any other action. Why so short on the barrel? Are you running a suppressor? If weight is the reason for the short barrel think about a proof carbon fiber.

 

[6brshooter]

Tl3 is fine, as is the origin for some money saved. I'd look at a 20-22" med Palma, bart or krieger, 4 or 5r rifling. Do you reload? 22-250 is fine but I'd rather have a 22-250ai or 22creed. 22-250 has a lot of case taper, they don't work great in aics mags. More than 4 rds or so and they start stacking wrong. 22-250 does work nice in a bdl bottom metal, and that type of metal is nice and quite. Sometimes aics mags get a little rattle in the bottom metal. Bottom line, IMHO, if you want a 18" barrel I'd stick to 223ai or 224valk. The bigger 22 cal will give you all their performance in a little longer pipe.

 

[[email protected]]

That’s a lot of questions. The TL3 will be just as accurate as any other action. Why so short on the barrel? Are you running a suppressor? If weight is the reason for the short barrel think about a proof carbon fiber.

It is for a suppressor. I’ve never had a suppressor on a rifle... never really needed one, but for when hunting and trying to get more than 1 animal, suppressor may help.

 

[[email protected]]

Tl3 is fine, as is the origin for some money saved. I'd look at a 20-22" med Palma, bart or krieger, 4 or 5r rifling. Do you reload? 22-250 is fine but I'd rather have a 22-250ai or 22creed. 22-250 has a lot of case taper, they don't work great in aics mags. More than 4 rds or so and they start stacking wrong. 22-250 does work nice in a bdl bottom metal, and that type of metal is nice and quite. Sometimes aics mags get a little rattle in the bottom metal. Bottom line, IMHO, if you want a 18" barrel I'd stick to 223ai or 224valk. The bigger 22 cal will give you all their performance in a little longer pipe.

I was looking at the surgeon bottom metal based on reviews... but I’m not 100% sure what the bottom metal does or how it affects performance. Just being honest.

 

[DIBBS]

I have had several standard 22-250's, as well as a 22-250 AI. Are you going to be using this as a walking/hiking/calling rifle. I would agree with @6brshooter go 22-250 Ackley Improved. Your cases will seldom need trimming.

In addition I would recommend a 7 or 8 twist, you can use light or heavy bullets. I do have a 223 AI ... 7 twist, 75 grain amaxes at 2950, my favorite calling rifle right now.

With a lot more in the oven with the 22-250- you could probably get lighter bullets @ 4k, entrance and no exit on coyotes, and jelly on the insides.

Manners EH series stock, to save weight, quality trigger, stack those song dogs up like cord wood. My 2 cents worth.

 

[[email protected]]

I have had several standard 22-250's, as well as a 22-250 AI. Are you going to be using this as a walking/hiking/calling rifle. I would agree with @6brshooter go 22-250 Ackley Improved. Your cases will seldom need trimming.

In addition I would recommend a 7 or 8 twist, you can use light or heavy bullets. I do have a 223 AI ... 7 twist, 75 grain amaxes at 2950, my favorite calling rifle right now.

With a lot more in the oven with the 22-250- you could probably get lighter bullets @ 4k, entrance and no exit on coyotes, and jelly on the insides.

Manners EH series stock, to save weight, quality trigger, stack those song dogs up like cord wood. My 2 cents worth.

I do reload, but for something like a 22-250, I probably wouldn’t waste my time for $1.50 rounds. I reload for my 338 lapua rounds because I’m looking at $8-$13 per round depending on what I’m doing. So I usually reload for that... not much else.

 

[[email protected]]

I have had several standard 22-250's, as well as a 22-250 AI. Are you going to be using this as a walking/hiking/calling rifle. I would agree with @6brshooter go 22-250 Ackley Improved. Your cases will seldom need trimming.

In addition I would recommend a 7 or 8 twist, you can use light or heavy bullets. I do have a 223 AI ... 7 twist, 75 grain amaxes at 2950, my favorite calling rifle right now.

With a lot more in the oven with the 22-250- you could probably get lighter bullets @ 4k, entrance and no exit on coyotes, and jelly on the insides.

Manners EH series stock, to save weight, quality trigger, stack those song dogs up like cord wood. My 2 cents worth.

Also yes, I’m using this as a walking/hiking/calling rifle.

 

[[email protected]]

That’s a lot of questions. The TL3 will be just as accurate as any other action. Why so short on the barrel? Are you running a suppressor? If weight is the reason for the short barrel think about a proof carbon fiber.

I’ve heard of these, but didn’t know enough about them. Worth the money then?

 

[QRE23]

My 22-250 is a Kelbly Atlas it has an 18in barrel and I run it suppressed but even suppressed it is still fairly loud and I would not consider it hearing safe. My 223AI has a 22in barrel and that thing suppressed is MUCH quieter and I would have no concern shooting it multiple times back to back without hearing protection but my 22-250, no way.

Not to start a pissing match but the whole carbon fiber wrapped barrels are a lot lighter thing only applies when you are comparing the weight of an equal diameter all steel barrel to a CF barrel and in that sense the CF barrel will be lighter but the all steel barrel will be much stiffer. If you compare a #4 contour all steel barrel to a CF barrel they weigh about the same and are relatively equal in stiffness but the all steel barrel will cost substantially less.

I have a couple Proof CF barrels on builds because I like how they look but there is nothing light about them.

 

[6brshooter]

I’ve heard of these, but didn’t know enough about them. Worth the money then?

I'm probably alone in this, but for a hotrod cartridge I'd rather have a 325-350 great blank instead of a 750-850 carbon blank. Obviously a yote/cat rifle isn't going to see the rd count of a prs or rifle that just bangs steel, in a yr. You watch what stock/bottom metal/scope you use, and the weight savings of a carbon goes out the window unless you're looking for a sub 7lb rig. With a 22cal, a med Palma is pretty beefy compared to a same contour 30cal barrel.

 

[6brshooter]

My 22-250 is a Kelbly Atlas it has an 18in barrel and I run it suppressed but even suppressed it is still fairly loud and I would not consider it hearing safe. My 223AI has a 22in barrel and that thing suppressed is MUCH quieter and I would have no concern shooting it multiple times back to back without hearing protection but my 22-250, no way.

Not to start a pissing match but the whole carbon fiber wrapped barrels are a lot lighter thing only applies when you are comparing the weight of an equal diameter all steel barrel to a CF barrel and in that sense the CF barrel will be lighter but the all steel barrel will be much stiffer. If you compare a #4 contour all steel barrel to a CF barrel they weigh about the same and are relatively equal in stiffness but the all steel barrel will cost substantially less.

I have a couple Proof CF barrels on builds because I like how they look but there is nothing light about them.

All this /\. The reason a 22250 is louder in an 18 is because the unburnt powder is increasing the noise. Also your comparing 40ish gas vs 26ish gr powder charge. If you want to be quieter for a double, a longer barrel on the big 22cal or the 224valk/223ai. Im probably swimming against the current here, but for a calling/walking rifle, I want something that is flat enough inside 340 yds to not need a correction. As most of my shots were inside this range, I had a 20" 8tw 243 that I used 70gr blitzkings in. Zeroed at 275yds, it was 2.8" high at mid range and 3" low at 340. Pretty much if you had a yote come in and it was inside 340, hold on the fur. Bobcat are smaller and might not work out the same, but on yotes it was perfect. Called yotes don't hang around like steel targets where you can range, dial, get in position, and shoot. Have a lighter bullet laser shortcuts to get in position and shoot. You can always lazer some reference points to get a feel of distances before you fire up the caller, but a flat shooter really helps.

The 20" 8tw had a solid 107smk load that depending on terrain worked awesome to 750+. Thats why I chose a 8tw, I hunt in areas that are 150-300yds, but also open up to creek flats and bottom ground. You need to take into consideration how fast you are pushing bullet, bullet type, and twist rate. A 7tw 22-250 with a lighter 50-55gr bullet will be 3400-3500fps. Bullet rpm will be 349k-360k, most bullets shred jackets above 305k rpm

 

[[email protected]]

My 22-250 is a Kelbly Atlas it has an 18in barrel and I run it suppressed but even suppressed it is still fairly loud and I would not consider it hearing safe. My 223AI has a 22in barrel and that thing suppressed is MUCH quieter and I would have no concern shooting it multiple times back to back without hearing protection but my 22-250, no way.

Not to start a pissing match but the whole carbon fiber wrapped barrels are a lot lighter thing only applies when you are comparing the weight of an equal diameter all steel barrel to a CF barrel and in that sense the CF barrel will be lighter but the all steel barrel will be much stiffer. If you compare a #4 contour all steel barrel to a CF barrel they weigh about the same and are relatively equal in stiffness but the all steel barrel will cost substantially less.

I have a couple Proof CF barrels on builds because I like how they look but there is nothing light about them.

Good to know. I appreciate that info. I’ve never even seen a proof in person so I have no clue about the weight or performance... only what I’ve read. What I’ve read has never mentioned what you mentioned. Thank you.

 

[CShooter92]

I built myself a coyote rifle a few years ago. This is how I did it and some comments on things I'd change

Manners T5A Elite Carbon- Comfiest stock I own. Would not change it. You need to order them based on the action you're going to use so they are inletted properly. You can also order a mini-chassis from Manners which is installed and then you don't need to worry about a bottom metal. If you don't order the mini chassis, a gunsmith will need to bed the action to the stock. I didn't get the mini chassis and have a Surgeon Bottom metal and I'm more than happy.
Hardy 24" Carbon Barrel - I'd go shorter for a calling rifle... especially if running a suppressor. But the weight savings of a carbon barrel are very nice.
Surgeon 591 action - Any of the custom short actions (Impact, Defiance, Bighorn, Surgeon, etc) will perform the same accuracy wise. Pick one you like and go with it.
I had a jewell trigger but I swapped it for a Trigger tech diamond. Just more robust for a hunting rifle.

Ironically I built mine in 6.5 creedmoor. I wouldn't do that again for a varmint rifle only. I would probably go 22 creed instead of 22-250 for more reliable feeding in AICS mags.

 

[[email protected]]

All this /\. The reason a 22250 is louder in an 18 is because the unburnt powder is increasing the noise. Also your comparing 40ish gas vs 26ish gr powder charge. If you want to be quieter for a double, a longer barrel on the big 22cal or the 224valk/223ai. Im probably swimming against the current here, but for a calling/walking rifle, I want something that is flat enough inside 340 yds to not need a correction. As most of my shots were inside this range, I had a 20" 8tw 243 that I used 70gr blitzkings in. Zeroed at 275yds, it was 2.8" high at mid range and 3" low at 340. Pretty much if you had a yote come in and it was inside 340, hold on the fur. Bobcat are smaller and might not work out the same, but on yotes it was perfect. Called yotes don't hang around like steel targets where you can range, dial, get in position, and shoot. Have a lighter bullet laser shortcuts to get in position and shoot. You can always lazer some reference points to get a feel of distances before you fire up the caller, but a flat shooter really helps.

The 20" 8tw had a solid 107smk load that depending on terrain worked awesome to 750+. Thats why I chose a 8tw, I hunt in areas that are 150-300yds, but also open up to creek flats and bottom ground. You need to take into consideration how fast you are pushing bullet, bullet type, and twist rate. A 7tw 22-250 with a lighter 50-55gr bullet will be 3400-3500fps. Bullet rpm will be 349k-360k, most bullets shred jackets above 305k rpm

I’m sorry... what is the 8TW? Is that a barrel contour or a certain barrel?

 

[[email protected]]

I built myself a coyote rifle a few years ago. This is how I did it and some comments on things I'd change

Manners T5A Elite Carbon- Comfiest stock I own. Would not change it. You need to order them based on the action you're going to use so they are inletted properly. You can also order a mini-chassis from Manners which is installed and then you don't need to worry about a bottom metal. If you don't order the mini chassis, a gunsmith will need to bed the action to the stock. I didn't get the mini chassis and have a Surgeon Bottom metal and I'm more than happy.
Hardy 24" Carbon Barrel - I'd go shorter for a calling rifle... especially if running a suppressor. But the weight savings of a carbon barrel are very nice.
Surgeon 591 action - Any of the custom short actions (Impact, Defiance, Bighorn, Surgeon, etc) will perform the same accuracy wise. Pick one you like and go with it.
I had a jewell trigger but I swapped it for a Trigger tech diamond. Just more robust for a hunting rifle.

Ironically I built mine in 6.5 creedmoor. I wouldn't do that again for a varmint rifle only. I would probably go 22 creed instead of 22-250 for more reliable feeding in AICS mags.

The one thing I really liked about the longhorn action is you can change the head on the action to fit another caliber. Obviously having to swap barrels out. Let’s say I want to stick with the 22-250, is there another magazine that will feed more reliably?

 

[Maurygold]

Good to know. I appreciate that info. I’ve never even seen a proof in person so I have no clue about the weight or performance... only what I’ve read. What I’ve read has never mentioned what you mentioned. Thank you.

You have not read that before because it's not true unless you look at super small contour barrels and that's because the proof has a steel barrel liner on the inside. Carbon is absolutely lighter than the steel counter-part just go look at the barrel weight of steel vs carbon on proofs own website. The sendero contour is almost half the weight as its steel counterpart. Further it is unequivocal that a barrel of equal weight of steel vs carbon the carbon is stiffer.

I own 3 proof prefit barrels and the price for them compared to steel is superb. I suspect the above has never actually bought a profit because they cost $750 chambered and threaded. a steel barrel cost 350 + you have to pay the additional 300-400 more for chamber/ threading. It is actually cheaper to buy a proof prefit but the 6 month wait time right now is the only drawback combined with having to pick a caliber/ twist that they already make. Buying a blank and having it threaded does get expensive.

Alos please don't buy a jewel trigger the triggertech cost the same and is miles better. If you go manners absolutely get the mini-chassis to avoid any bedding issues and since they come with a magazine it's actually a pretty econimc option.

I have assembled several guns for myself and family and it really is not hard if you buy the right components this is by far the most challenging aspect of building yourself.

 

[[email protected]]

I’m sorry... what is the 8TW? Is that a barrel contour or a certain barrel?

So what’s the difference between a stock and chassis? and what’s the difference between a stock builder they offer and the mini chassis? This is getting really confusing. Lol I may be out of my depth on this one.

 

[[email protected]]

You have not read that before because it's not true unless you look at super small contour barrels and that's because the proof has a steel barrel liner on the inside. Carbon is absolutely lighter than the steel counter-part just go look at the barrel weight of steel vs carbon on proofs own website. The sendero contour is almost half the weight as its steel counterpart. Further it is unequivocal that a barrel of equal weight of steel vs carbon the carbon is stiffer.

I own 3 proof prefit barrels and the price for them compared to steel is superb. I suspect the above has never actually bought a profit because they cost $750 chambered and threaded. a steel barrel cost 350 + you have to pay the additional 300-400 more for chamber/ threading. It is actually cheaper to buy a proof prefit but the 6 month wait time right now is the only drawback combined with having to pick a caliber/ twist that they already make. Buying a blank and having it threaded does get expensive.

Alos please don't buy a jewel trigger the triggertech cost the same and is miles better. If you go manners absolutely get the mini-chassis to avoid any bedding issues and since they come with a magazine it's actually a pretty econimc option.

I have assembled several guns for myself and family and it really is not hard if you buy the right components this is by far the most challenging aspect of building yourself.

So triggertech it is. Unfortunately, I’m a victim of good marketing on Jewels part. Lol now do the mini chassis have a list of actions that they fit? Or do I have to send in the action to them? This is my first build ever. I’ve only had customs built. Never tried doing it myself

 

[QRE23]

Further it is unequivocal that a barrel of equal weight of steel vs carbon the carbon is stiffer.

Not to long ago a very reputable gunsmith and shooter chucked up multiple different steel barrels of equal weight and length in his lathe, hung a weight off the end of the barrel and measured deflection with a dial indicator. Then did the same thing with multiple different CF barrels of the same length all chucked up at the same point with the weight hung in the same location for all. In every test the CF barrel had MORE deflection than did the equal weight all steel barrel.

My last build was a 6mm CM built on a SA Rem 700 with a 20in Proof CF barrel, MCM Varmint stock, Vortex HST scope. There is nothing heavy about the stock or the scope on this build yet it still weighs over 9lbs as it sits.

 

[Maurygold]

So triggertech it is. Unfortunately, I’m a victim of good marketing on Jewels part. Lol now do the mini chassis have a list of actions that they fit? Or do I have to send in the action to them? This is my first build ever. I’ve only had customs built. Never tried doing it myself

they only need to know long action or short for mini chassis they do not need your action. That being said tell them what action you have so the bolt and ejection port are in right spot.

 

[Maurygold]

Not to long ago a very reputable gunsmith and shooter chucked up multiple different steel barrels of equal weight and length in his lathe, hung a weight off the end of the barrel and measured deflection with a dial indicator. Then did the same thing with multiple different CF barrels of the same length all chucked up at the same point with the weight hung in the same location for all. In every test the CF barrel had MORE deflection than did the equal weight all steel barrel.

My last build was a 6mm CM built on a SA Rem 700 with a 20in Proof CF barrel, MCM Varmint stock, Vortex HST scope. There is nothing heavy about the stock or the scope on this build yet it still weighs over 9lbs as it sits.
View attachment 7491233

Bryan Litz argues otherwise.

Modern Advancements in Long Range Shooting Volume 2 p. 240

Carbon fibers barrel have " increased stiffness compared to steel barrels of the same weight, which may dampen vibration"

 

[Maurygold]

So what’s the difference between a stock and chassis? and what’s the difference between a stock builder they offer and the mini chassis? This is getting really confusing. Lol I may be out of my depth on this one.

A chassis is something like the masterpiece arms where it is 90-100% metal framing the gun sits in. Stock is what you think of as being a more traditional gunstock for hunting. Manners is my personal favorite - they make different kinds of stock and the mini-chassis is simply an option that you can get. The mini-chassis is a metal frame inserted in the stock that the action screws in to - traditionally a stock will have a bottom metal and then be "bed" for the action the mini chassis replaces this and is simply an attachment method.

 

[QRE23]

Bryan Litz argues otherwise.

Modern Advancements in Long Range Shooting Volume 2 p. 240

Carbon fibers barrel have " increased stiffness compared to steel barrels of the same weight, which may dampen vibration"

And I have nothing but respect for Bryan Litz but I wonder if he's actually done any testing of barrel deflection on CF vs all steel barrels like Alex Wheeler has. This is a cut and paste of Alex's test along with a pic of his notes he posted on another forum awhile back

"I held them all by the shank in the lathe chuck and hung a weight at the same point on each of them. I also did a #4 it went .028". What I found was the cf barrels are about as stiff as a steel barrel of equal weight, they also need a wider forend. So in reality I can build a lighter rifle with a steel barrel if we are talking equal barrel stiffness. And do not shoot them fast. I replace cf barrels at much lower round counts than others because the owner doesnt think they are hot judging by how they feel on the outside, but they are plenty hot on the inside. Im not knocking them, if you want a light rifle but also want to run a tactical style stock like an A3, the cf barrels are the only way to do it. And the proof barrels do shoot quite well. But theres a lot of mis information out there."

 

[CShooter92]

This is my first build ever. I’ve only had customs built. Never tried doing it myself

What customs do you have already?

 

[Maurygold]

And I have nothing but respect for Bryan Litz but I wonder if he's actually done any testing of barrel deflection on CF vs all steel barrels like Alex Wheeler has. This is a cut and paste of Alex's test along with a pic of his notes he posted on another forum awhile back

"I held them all by the shank in the lathe chuck and hung a weight at the same point on each of them. I also did a #4 it went .028". What I found was the cf barrels are about as stiff as a steel barrel of equal weight, they also need a wider forend. So in reality I can build a lighter rifle with a steel barrel if we are talking equal barrel stiffness. And do not shoot them fast. I replace cf barrels at much lower round counts than others because the owner doesnt think they are hot judging by how they feel on the outside, but they are plenty hot on the inside. Im not knocking them, if you want a light rifle but also want to run a tactical style stock like an A3, the cf barrels are the only way to do it. And the proof barrels do shoot quite well. But theres a lot of mis information out there."
View attachment 7491347

I've sent this test and respect Alex a good deal. The issue with the above is that there is not one single weight listed. The entire debate is a pound-for-pound one and Alex finds that to be true "What I found was the cf barrels are about as stiff as a steel barrel of equal weight" but I cannot conclusively say whether carbon has more deflection without knowing the weights of these barrels

 

[QRE23]

I've sent this test and respect Alex a good deal. The issue with the above is that there is not one single weight listed. The entire debate is a pound-for-pound one and Alex finds that to be true "What I found was the cf barrels are about as stiff as a steel barrel of equal weight" but I cannot conclusively say whether carbon has more deflection without knowing the weights of these barrels

So you think there is a chance any fluted #3 of any manufacture is lighter than a Proof Sendero Light?

And for what it's worth you are aware the ONLY thing different about a Proof Sendero Light and Proof Sendero is the diameter of the CF on the outside, the steel liner or barrel part underneath is turned down to the exact same spec for both and that is straight from Proof themselves.

 

[[email protected]]

What customs do you have already?

I have a 338LM and a 22LR. This one will be my 3rd. I don’t know if I picked the best components for them or not. I bought what I thought would be best based on what I’ve seen and mainly read on here for what their intended uses were/are.

 

[[email protected]]

So you think there is a chance any fluted #3 of any manufacture is lighter than a Proof Sendero Light?

And for what it's worth you are aware the ONLY thing different about a Proof Sendero Light and Proof Sendero is the diameter of the CF on the outside, the steel liner or barrel part underneath is turned down to the exact same spec for both and that is straight from Proof themselves.

So the difference between the proof and proof light is the amount of CF. That’s it? Lol i would have thought it was “lighter”. They target their ads for idiots like me. Lol appreciate the info. This is all excellent info!

 

[b6graham]

if someone bid that at $5400 id fucking run. and run fast

also...do a 22LRV or 22 Creed

 

[waspocrew]

Like a few others have mentioned, I’d take a 22/250 AI or 22 Creedmoor. I just picked up my first TL3 today and can’t wait for a few more components to arrive.

I also second the suggestion for a Manners stock with the mini chassis (which is installed by Manners). Basically makes it a bolt in and go system. That also covers your bottom metal and magazine.

For my rifle, I’m pulling my current 22-250 AI barrel off my savage (only have a few hundred rounds down the tube). Once I burn out the barrel, I’ll be going with a 22 Creedmoor prefit.

As for components, take a look at Altus shooting solutions. I bought my TL3 and Manners PRS2 from them They were extremely helpful over the phone and helped make sure I had all my bases covered.

I think you’ll have a great rifle! Hand loading, even for 22/250, will open up a lot of options for you in terms of bullet selection and really finding what your rifle likes.

 

[[email protected]]

Tl3 is fine, as is the origin for some money saved. I'd look at a 20-22" med Palma, bart or krieger, 4 or 5r rifling. Do you reload? 22-250 is fine but I'd rather have a 22-250ai or 22creed. 22-250 has a lot of case taper, they don't work great in aics mags. More than 4 rds or so and they start stacking wrong. 22-250 does work nice in a bdl bottom metal, and that type of metal is nice and quite. Sometimes aics mags get a little rattle in the bottom metal. Bottom line, IMHO, if you want a 18" barrel I'd stick to 223ai or 224valk. The bigger 22 cal will give you all their performance in a little longer pipe.

I was looking at the 224 Valkyrie before the 22-250 and while it went out a little further, it seemed the 22-250 was a little more on point for what I need. I’m never going to shoot out past 600 yards with this rifle and even that is pushing it. I would like to have something that can take down animals a little bigger than a coyote, ethically of course, but not sure other good options... maybe something great for coyotes but also good for mountain lion and/or wolf along with coyote? That may need to be 2 completely separate rifles to be able to do all that, but if there’s a caliber that would be good for that, Please let me know!

 

[[email protected]]

if someone bid that at $5400 id fucking run. and run fast

also...do a 22LRV or 22 Creed

Yeah, it sounded a bit high, but I’m not too knowledgeable about what is all needed so I wasn’t sure.

 

[6brshooter]

If bigger cats are in the equation, a 6mm might be better, like the 1 i had.

100yds, didn't touch the scope for any change between the 70gr and 107gr loads. Thats a 275yd zero with 70s and 190yd zero on 107smk

 

[Codiekfx400]

Hard to beat a 6 Creed or a 243 Winchester for what your trying to accomplish. The 18” barrel alone is enough reason to go with a bigger bore such as 6mm. It just gives you that much more area to burn powder in the barrel. Honestly unless you have disposable income there is really no need for a zco optic and a manners stock for a walking varminter IMO

 

[JeffLebowski]

To break this down as easy as possible. I’m looking to build a new rifle for varmint hunting. Mainly coyote and bobcat in 22-250 caliber. I was looking at the manners t4a or t5a stock or the MPA Ba stock, the bighorn TL3 ACTION (although I’m open to other brands that are known to be more accurate), an 18” threaded barrel (open to brands), a jewel trigger, etc... I’m a little confused on the bottom metal and magazine well choice, and a few other things. If I go to manners I can build my stock to match the action... that being said, do I still need to have the action bedded to the stock or is that already done when ordering on the manners website? This is my first build that I’m trying to put together myself. What’s the difference between AI mags

Is it worth doing myself, or cheaper/less of a headache just to pay someone to do?

Someone bid this project at $5400-$6000 and after just buying a ZCO for $3,500 and having to buy another scope for this project, I’d like to keep price down as much as possible.

Run, don’t walk to Mesa Precision and get a quote.

Precision Rifles & Gunsmithing Services - Pure Precision

The Pure Precision Rifles is your source for high quality Remington 700 pattern actions, carbon fiber stocks, and bottom metals.

mesaprecisionarms.com

 

[hereinaz]

Good to know. I appreciate that info. I’ve never even seen a proof in person so I have no clue about the weight or performance... only what I’ve read. What I’ve read has never mentioned what you mentioned. Thank you.

Weight for weight, Carbon fiber is stiffer than steel. Its why racing bikes and aerospace and other structural componenets are made of the stuff when weight matters more than increased cost. Barrels of equal weight, carbon is stiffer.

Disagree with "stiffness", maybe, but the carbon fiber barrels will not walk like similar weight steel sporter barrels.

For a hunting rifle where a suppressor is hanging off and a string of shots is expected, carbon is the hands down winner.

 

[QRE23]

Weight for weight, Carbon fiber is stiffer than steel.

Yes and the key words there being "weight for weight" so just think how huge in diameter a hypothetically 100% CF barrel would need to be to be as stiff as a equal weight all steel barrel.

 

[Rust]

I've got a 22-250, 23" barrel, McMillan Sako Varminter stock with light fill built on an old Browning Hi-Power action which is basically a Sako M-57. I've got a 22-250 AI with a 22" barrel, Brown Precision kevlar stock built on an old Rem Model 7 action. I shoot light bullets out to 400 which because of the much higher initial velocity have less drop than a heavy bullet at those ranges. Don't believe it? Run the numbers for a 40 gr bullet at 3900 fps.

A fancy action is nice, but the barrel, chambering and smithing job matter the most. I'll grant that my last couple of rifles were based on custom actions but that was because the last couple of Remingtons needed more work, enough to piss me off. Old Remmys don't have as many problems. Last two actions were Stillers which are fine, would also consider one of Jim Bordens actions, both of which are very reasonably priced.

 

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Run, don’t walk to Mesa Precision and get a quote.

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I appreciate that. Will do first thing Monday morning!

 

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I've got a 22-250, 23" barrel, McMillan Sako Varminter stock with light fill built on an old Browning Hi-Power action which is basically a Sako M-57. I've got a 22-250 AI with a 22" barrel, Brown Precision kevlar stock built on an old Rem Model 7 action. I shoot light bullets out to 400 which because of the much higher initial velocity have less drop than a heavy bullet at those ranges. Don't believe it? Run the numbers for a 40 gr bullet at 3900 fps.

A fancy action is nice, but the barrel, chambering and smithing job matter the most. I'll grant that my last couple of rifles were based on custom actions but that was because the last couple of Remingtons needed more work, enough to piss me off. Old Remmys don't have as many problems. Last two actions were Stillers which are fine, would also consider one of Jim Bordens actions, both of which are very reasonably priced.

I just looked them up... they seem to be pretty close in price +/- $100 depending on the model of the bighorn action.

I started looking at the sako Carbon wolf in 22-250 but no one seems to have one anywhere. Beautiful rifle. Not sure about how much better a sako is to a browning or savage.... but they look like they’re amazing rifles. That being said, I just started looking at Tikkas which I didn’t know were made by sako.

 

[hereinaz]

Yes and the key words there being "weight for weight" so just think how huge in diameter a hypothetically 100% CF barrel would need to be to be as stiff as a equal weight all steel barrel.

What does that mean? No one wants a carbon fiber barrel to replace a heavy contour varmint barrel.