I am not new to firearms, but I do not have an AR. Unlike other rifles I own, there is a lot of custom-type preferences going on with AR rifles. My primary use is going to be plinking or recreational shooting. I would like for it to be accurate (which is why I chose an AR), and a carbine length rifle. Light as possible, if it doesn't comprimise accuracy much. Perhaps a pencil barrel? As just starting out, I'm not looking to spend 2k on an SR-15. I know DD is a good choice, but was hoping for a good option under $1k. First I've noticed here topics on builds, and I don't know that I am comfortable with that yet. My question is should I take my time and research and do my own build or just buy one good to go? I was actually looking at M1a's a while back, and came across Fulton Amory's FAR-15. Couldn't find any info on this. Only $699, which actually makes me leary. http://www.fulton-armory.com/fariflecal556mmupruniversalprecisionrifle-3.aspx
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Need help buying my first AR
- Thread starter Dfender
- Start date
Re: Need help buying my first AR
I own several bone stock Bushmasters including an M4. Everyone is stone cold accurate and reliable. Standard M4 can be found all day for $800-900. My experience.
Good luck shopping, info over load is no fun.
I own several bone stock Bushmasters including an M4. Everyone is stone cold accurate and reliable. Standard M4 can be found all day for $800-900. My experience.
Good luck shopping, info over load is no fun.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
For under $1k, I would recommend staying with a more established AR manufacturer. The S&W M&P15, Stag Arms Model 1, Spikes Tactical ST-15 and ST-15 Midlength are all excellent options for under $1k.
If you are not familiar with the AR platform, I highly recommend that you DO NOT do your own build. You can have a rifle built for you, but I would suggest buying a completed rifle, or else at least a complete upper instead; unless you are certain that the person building the rifle is reputable and will build your rifle correctly. Research is important, and doing things wrong can lead to problems galore. I spend a lot of time cleaning up peoples' mistakes because they didn't do the research and they made mistakes or they took shortcuts.
If you want to build on your own, I would recommend doing a LOT of research for a very long time to determine what you want, what you want your rifle to do, what you need for your rifle to do that, what brands to buy and avoid, what operational aspects you want for your weapon, and where to buy all of that stuff.
When I build rifles for guys, I sit down with them and go through a whole checklist of stuff to develop the right rifle. For people that are newer to the platform, my philosophy is to keep it as simple as possible to meet the mission requirements.
For under $1k, I would recommend staying with a more established AR manufacturer. The S&W M&P15, Stag Arms Model 1, Spikes Tactical ST-15 and ST-15 Midlength are all excellent options for under $1k.
If you are not familiar with the AR platform, I highly recommend that you DO NOT do your own build. You can have a rifle built for you, but I would suggest buying a completed rifle, or else at least a complete upper instead; unless you are certain that the person building the rifle is reputable and will build your rifle correctly. Research is important, and doing things wrong can lead to problems galore. I spend a lot of time cleaning up peoples' mistakes because they didn't do the research and they made mistakes or they took shortcuts.
If you want to build on your own, I would recommend doing a LOT of research for a very long time to determine what you want, what you want your rifle to do, what you need for your rifle to do that, what brands to buy and avoid, what operational aspects you want for your weapon, and where to buy all of that stuff.
When I build rifles for guys, I sit down with them and go through a whole checklist of stuff to develop the right rifle. For people that are newer to the platform, my philosophy is to keep it as simple as possible to meet the mission requirements.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
I was in Rainier Arms the other day, and heard about their new rifle, the RUC. It's six and a half pound carbine with a lot of good parts. It's over a $1000, but you may want to take a look.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2888
I was in Rainier Arms the other day, and heard about their new rifle, the RUC. It's six and a half pound carbine with a lot of good parts. It's over a $1000, but you may want to take a look.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2888
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R.O.U.S.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was in Rainier Arms the other day, and heard about their new rifle, the RUC. It's six and a half pound carbine with what seems like a lot of good parts. It's over a $1000, but you may want to take a look.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2888</div></div>
Mike Hwang is a great guy. Rainier Arms is definitely an excellent company and I would highly recommend them both as a distributer and manufacturer. They have really good QC/QA.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: R.O.U.S.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was in Rainier Arms the other day, and heard about their new rifle, the RUC. It's six and a half pound carbine with what seems like a lot of good parts. It's over a $1000, but you may want to take a look.
http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=2888</div></div>
Mike Hwang is a great guy. Rainier Arms is definitely an excellent company and I would highly recommend them both as a distributer and manufacturer. They have really good QC/QA.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. Sounds like good, sound advice to me. That 6.5 lb Ranier Arms looks just like what I need! I may go ahead and spend the little extra. When comparing the Ranier to say a Daniel Defense they look pretty comparable. What do you guys think about the lightweight profile barrel? Do they string shots once they heat up?
Thanks for the replies, I appreciate it. Sounds like good, sound advice to me. That 6.5 lb Ranier Arms looks just like what I need! I may go ahead and spend the little extra. When comparing the Ranier to say a Daniel Defense they look pretty comparable. What do you guys think about the lightweight profile barrel? Do they string shots once they heat up?
Re: Need help buying my first AR
Chrome Hammer Forged (CHF) barrels tend to be a lot more robust and consistent under heat than standard barrels. Lightweight barrels do cut down the weight, but they degrade/wear out faster. The higher you heat up a barrel, the faster the barrel will degrade in service life. Standard Gov't profile CHF barrels can get up to or more than 40,000rds in a service life, while the lightweights tend to be in the 20k-30k range. For standard non-CHF lightweight profile barrels, you may see service life ranging between ~10k-15k rounds, depending on how you shoot your rifle. Standard Gov't profile non-CHF barrels can be in the 15k-20k range, depending on how you shoot them. Each manufacturer has different specifications and claims on what their barrels can do.
The numbers I posted are general averages of what's out there. If you surpass those service lives, you can still run the barrel, but the accuracy will degrade due to a worn throat and bore.
Realistically, most shooters will never out-shoot a standard barrel. Only professionals and the more hardcore shooters usually wear out barrels.
Chrome Hammer Forged (CHF) barrels tend to be a lot more robust and consistent under heat than standard barrels. Lightweight barrels do cut down the weight, but they degrade/wear out faster. The higher you heat up a barrel, the faster the barrel will degrade in service life. Standard Gov't profile CHF barrels can get up to or more than 40,000rds in a service life, while the lightweights tend to be in the 20k-30k range. For standard non-CHF lightweight profile barrels, you may see service life ranging between ~10k-15k rounds, depending on how you shoot your rifle. Standard Gov't profile non-CHF barrels can be in the 15k-20k range, depending on how you shoot them. Each manufacturer has different specifications and claims on what their barrels can do.
The numbers I posted are general averages of what's out there. If you surpass those service lives, you can still run the barrel, but the accuracy will degrade due to a worn throat and bore.
Realistically, most shooters will never out-shoot a standard barrel. Only professionals and the more hardcore shooters usually wear out barrels.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
I'm surprised no-one mentioned Rock River. I have 3 of them and have put 1000's of rounds through them with out an issue. All are under MOA accurate as well. I'll also mention I paid under a $1000 for all of them. Go see your dealer and don't mind the prices they post on there page.
I'm surprised no-one mentioned Rock River. I have 3 of them and have put 1000's of rounds through them with out an issue. All are under MOA accurate as well. I'll also mention I paid under a $1000 for all of them. Go see your dealer and don't mind the prices they post on there page.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
Owned an entry level Bushy Carbine as my first AR, she was a fun little shooter.
The Rock River National Match rifles are heck of a lot better shooters out of the box, I've seen them for good prices on the sale boards here and elsewhere.
Daniel Defense has some great offerings and I to have heard great things about Rainer.
Buddy of mine bought a S&W MP15, and I'd say it was as good or better than my bushy was.
Owned an entry level Bushy Carbine as my first AR, she was a fun little shooter.
The Rock River National Match rifles are heck of a lot better shooters out of the box, I've seen them for good prices on the sale boards here and elsewhere.
Daniel Defense has some great offerings and I to have heard great things about Rainer.
Buddy of mine bought a S&W MP15, and I'd say it was as good or better than my bushy was.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
For a plinking rifle this is extremely hard to beat
http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
For a plinking rifle this is extremely hard to beat
http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
Re: Need help buying my first AR
I haven't seen anyone mention Bravo Company and I'd strongly recommend you give them a look either for components or a complete rifle. You can't go wrong with Colt, for AR15s they have always been considered the gold standard, but I think you can do as well for considerably less $$.
A great way to start would be to combine one of Bravo's complete uppers with a self-assembled lower. It is remarkably easy to assemble your own lower with the most basic of hand tools. I built my first lower with a carpenters hammer, pair of regular slip-joint pliers and a nail set. Heresy to some, I know, but it worked and that lower is still a part of my primary 16" Middy many, many rounds later. I had actually intended to get a "proper" set of roll pin punches and all the other AR15 builder must-haves but when my lower parts kit arrived in the mail I took a look at the parts and the lower receiver and just started putting things together. It practically built itself, it really was that easy!
BTW here is a link to "The Chart" an invaluable AR15 resource IMHO.
I haven't seen anyone mention Bravo Company and I'd strongly recommend you give them a look either for components or a complete rifle. You can't go wrong with Colt, for AR15s they have always been considered the gold standard, but I think you can do as well for considerably less $$.
A great way to start would be to combine one of Bravo's complete uppers with a self-assembled lower. It is remarkably easy to assemble your own lower with the most basic of hand tools. I built my first lower with a carpenters hammer, pair of regular slip-joint pliers and a nail set. Heresy to some, I know, but it worked and that lower is still a part of my primary 16" Middy many, many rounds later. I had actually intended to get a "proper" set of roll pin punches and all the other AR15 builder must-haves but when my lower parts kit arrived in the mail I took a look at the parts and the lower receiver and just started putting things together. It practically built itself, it really was that easy!
BTW here is a link to "The Chart" an invaluable AR15 resource IMHO.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: grouse</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For a plinking rifle this is extremely hard to beat
http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
</div></div>
Thanks for the Palmetto link. That looks like an outstanding value.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: grouse</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For a plinking rifle this is extremely hard to beat
http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
</div></div>
Thanks for the Palmetto link. That looks like an outstanding value.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
If you want a factory build don't over look a basic LMT and Colt. The 6920 Colt can be had for about $1k if you look hard enough and you can put together an LMT for less, buy the upper seperate from the lower saving a few bucks and be done with it.
If you want a little shorter and drink the koolaide Colt 6921 can be had for about $1200 + a few bucks de-registered.
But like mentioned above there are some great options from Spikes, Stag, Rainier, and a couple others all with good parts.
It's an endless search and once you get started good luck stopping even after buying. With the available options you'll be pulling you're hair out.
If you want a factory build don't over look a basic LMT and Colt. The 6920 Colt can be had for about $1k if you look hard enough and you can put together an LMT for less, buy the upper seperate from the lower saving a few bucks and be done with it.
If you want a little shorter and drink the koolaide Colt 6921 can be had for about $1200 + a few bucks de-registered.
But like mentioned above there are some great options from Spikes, Stag, Rainier, and a couple others all with good parts.
It's an endless search and once you get started good luck stopping even after buying. With the available options you'll be pulling you're hair out.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
The Palmetto rifle is a GREAT deal. Also I second the suggestion to look into a Colt or LMT upper (or complete rifle, for that matter). I have found the LMTs to be fantastic for any price and either one of those will probably outlast you.
Also, if you are looking for sustained accuracy, think about a heavier profile. The thin pencil barrel heats up pretty fast.
The Palmetto rifle is a GREAT deal. Also I second the suggestion to look into a Colt or LMT upper (or complete rifle, for that matter). I have found the LMTs to be fantastic for any price and either one of those will probably outlast you.
Also, if you are looking for sustained accuracy, think about a heavier profile. The thin pencil barrel heats up pretty fast.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
You want to stay w a min. 16" barrel with a .556 if you want full ballistic performance from the round. I don't care for integrated carry handle uppers, or fixed post front sights.
You want to stay w a min. 16" barrel with a .556 if you want full ballistic performance from the round. I don't care for integrated carry handle uppers, or fixed post front sights.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PeterWBush</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Also, if you are looking for sustained accuracy, think about a heavier profile. The thin pencil barrel heats up pretty fast. </div></div>
I was kind of afraid of that. I'm not worried about shooting the life out of the barrel, just groups opening up after the barrel heats up. I was trying to keep the weight down (just like everybody else I'm sure), but I may just go with a standard profile barrel. I have a Daewoo with a quad rail installed and a SWFA SS 1-4x on the way. I'm just thinking the Daewoo is going to end up being 10 lbs when I mount the scope. To the point, I'm thinking I need an AR to put the scope on.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PeterWBush</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Also, if you are looking for sustained accuracy, think about a heavier profile. The thin pencil barrel heats up pretty fast. </div></div>
I was kind of afraid of that. I'm not worried about shooting the life out of the barrel, just groups opening up after the barrel heats up. I was trying to keep the weight down (just like everybody else I'm sure), but I may just go with a standard profile barrel. I have a Daewoo with a quad rail installed and a SWFA SS 1-4x on the way. I'm just thinking the Daewoo is going to end up being 10 lbs when I mount the scope. To the point, I'm thinking I need an AR to put the scope on.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
Also, the RRA I had would not feed steel cased ammo, so I sold it. RRA CS says that's the way the guns are chambered-tight. I prefer my SD guns to eat anything they're fed.
Also, the RRA I had would not feed steel cased ammo, so I sold it. RRA CS says that's the way the guns are chambered-tight. I prefer my SD guns to eat anything they're fed.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen
http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: saleen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen </div></div>
Not a lot of good options for mounting a light on that set up.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: saleen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen </div></div>
Not a lot of good options for mounting a light on that set up.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: phm14</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: saleen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen </div></div>
Not a lot of good options for mounting a light on that set up. </div></div>
While I'd personally lean towards one of the BCM offerings here is an excellent option for mounting a light on a rifle with a standard CAR handguard: Midwest Industries Tactical Light Mount
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: phm14</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: saleen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen </div></div>
Not a lot of good options for mounting a light on that set up. </div></div>
While I'd personally lean towards one of the BCM offerings here is an excellent option for mounting a light on a rifle with a standard CAR handguard: Midwest Industries Tactical Light Mount
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: plong</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: phm14</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: saleen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen </div></div>
Not a lot of good options for mounting a light on that set up. </div></div>
While I'd personally lean towards one of the BCM offerings here is an excellent option for mounting a light on a rifle with a standard CAR handguard: Midwest Industries Tactical Light Mount </div></div>
Looks like that mount could place a light in the FOV of your optic.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: plong</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: phm14</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: saleen</div><div class="ubbcode-body">http://www.palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
If I read that correctly, that price INCLUDES the Aimpoint PRO and QRP????? That's an incredible value, I wouldn't look any further than that!
Saleen </div></div>
Not a lot of good options for mounting a light on that set up. </div></div>
While I'd personally lean towards one of the BCM offerings here is an excellent option for mounting a light on a rifle with a standard CAR handguard: Midwest Industries Tactical Light Mount </div></div>
Looks like that mount could place a light in the FOV of your optic.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chrome Hammer Forged (CHF) barrels tend to be a lot more robust and consistent under heat than standard barrels. Lightweight barrels do cut down the weight, but they degrade/wear out faster. The higher you heat up a barrel, the faster the barrel will degrade in service life. Standard Gov't profile CHF barrels can get up to or more than 40,000rds in a service life, while the lightweights tend to be in the 20k-30k range. For standard non-CHF lightweight profile barrels, you may see service life ranging between ~10k-15k rounds, depending on how you shoot your rifle. Standard Gov't profile non-CHF barrels can be in the 15k-20k range, depending on how you shoot them. Each manufacturer has different specifications and claims on what their barrels can do.
The numbers I posted are general averages of what's out there. If you surpass those service lives, you can still run the barrel, but the accuracy will degrade due to a worn throat and bore.
Realistically, most shooters will never out-shoot a standard barrel. Only professionals and the more hardcore shooters usually wear out barrels. </div></div>
CHF = Cold Hammer Forged. Not "chrome."
Your barrel life information is based on what? Not asking to be a smartass but would like to see a source/s.
The biggest factor of barrel wear for 5.56 AR's is throat erosion. The profile whether it be gov't or LW/pencil does not change that. Yes lighter profile barrels will heat up quicker. Unless you are shooting FA or plan to do repeated mag dumps, it will not be an issue. 40k for any barrel is alot to expect. I am guessing you are using the story of filthy 14 for you barrel life estimate. FYI - That barrel at 30k+ was shooting around 5MOA.
I do agree that CL will be more durable than non-CL. Supposedly, there is some added barrel life for CHF (or BFH) vs. a regular CL but I doubt it is that significant.
I think the take home point is the barrel is extremely cheap when compared to 10k, 20k, or 30k rounds of ammo (@ .30 cents a shot $3000, $6000, or $9000 respectively). Buy the barrel you want. If you happen to be the 1% of AR owners that ever shoot out your barrel, buy another. I think LW barrel makes alot of sense for someone who will actually be carrying their AR.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: USACS</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Chrome Hammer Forged (CHF) barrels tend to be a lot more robust and consistent under heat than standard barrels. Lightweight barrels do cut down the weight, but they degrade/wear out faster. The higher you heat up a barrel, the faster the barrel will degrade in service life. Standard Gov't profile CHF barrels can get up to or more than 40,000rds in a service life, while the lightweights tend to be in the 20k-30k range. For standard non-CHF lightweight profile barrels, you may see service life ranging between ~10k-15k rounds, depending on how you shoot your rifle. Standard Gov't profile non-CHF barrels can be in the 15k-20k range, depending on how you shoot them. Each manufacturer has different specifications and claims on what their barrels can do.
The numbers I posted are general averages of what's out there. If you surpass those service lives, you can still run the barrel, but the accuracy will degrade due to a worn throat and bore.
Realistically, most shooters will never out-shoot a standard barrel. Only professionals and the more hardcore shooters usually wear out barrels. </div></div>
CHF = Cold Hammer Forged. Not "chrome."
Your barrel life information is based on what? Not asking to be a smartass but would like to see a source/s.
The biggest factor of barrel wear for 5.56 AR's is throat erosion. The profile whether it be gov't or LW/pencil does not change that. Yes lighter profile barrels will heat up quicker. Unless you are shooting FA or plan to do repeated mag dumps, it will not be an issue. 40k for any barrel is alot to expect. I am guessing you are using the story of filthy 14 for you barrel life estimate. FYI - That barrel at 30k+ was shooting around 5MOA.
I do agree that CL will be more durable than non-CL. Supposedly, there is some added barrel life for CHF (or BFH) vs. a regular CL but I doubt it is that significant.
I think the take home point is the barrel is extremely cheap when compared to 10k, 20k, or 30k rounds of ammo (@ .30 cents a shot $3000, $6000, or $9000 respectively). Buy the barrel you want. If you happen to be the 1% of AR owners that ever shoot out your barrel, buy another. I think LW barrel makes alot of sense for someone who will actually be carrying their AR.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
I have a DPMS AP4 and I enjoy plinking with it. It is under a grand and you can spend the money you save on a custom to add some "bells and whistles". this is just my opinion, but always think about how much you are actually gonna shoot it before you spend a lot on a "safe trophy"
I have a DPMS AP4 and I enjoy plinking with it. It is under a grand and you can spend the money you save on a custom to add some "bells and whistles". this is just my opinion, but always think about how much you are actually gonna shoot it before you spend a lot on a "safe trophy"
Re: Need help buying my first AR
Definitely agree with BBJones on barrels: IMO chrome lined is a pretty much a must-have if you aren't building a precision rig. That’s one of the reasons I recommended BCM as all their steel barrels are chrome-lined.
As for cold-hammer-forged versus "standard" I'm unconvinced CHF is anything more than the latest buzzword to get us to spend more $. I have a "standard" chrome lined BCM barrel on my 16" middy and a CHF Daniel Defense on my 10.3" MK18 clone...too early in either’s life-cycle to tell if there'll be a meaningful difference in durability. I wonder if many of us shoot our ARs enough for it to matter even if there is a difference. As was said 10,000 rounds at $.30 = $3,000.00; a good chrome -lined “standard” barrel will run you $170.00 to $230.00, less on sale…
FWIW a light mounted on the Midwest front sight post light rail does not interfere with your optics field of view, at least in my experience. I’ve used one with an Aimpoint Comp M2, EOtech, and currently with a Vortex PST 1-4x...YMMV!
Definitely agree with BBJones on barrels: IMO chrome lined is a pretty much a must-have if you aren't building a precision rig. That’s one of the reasons I recommended BCM as all their steel barrels are chrome-lined.
As for cold-hammer-forged versus "standard" I'm unconvinced CHF is anything more than the latest buzzword to get us to spend more $. I have a "standard" chrome lined BCM barrel on my 16" middy and a CHF Daniel Defense on my 10.3" MK18 clone...too early in either’s life-cycle to tell if there'll be a meaningful difference in durability. I wonder if many of us shoot our ARs enough for it to matter even if there is a difference. As was said 10,000 rounds at $.30 = $3,000.00; a good chrome -lined “standard” barrel will run you $170.00 to $230.00, less on sale…
FWIW a light mounted on the Midwest front sight post light rail does not interfere with your optics field of view, at least in my experience. I’ve used one with an Aimpoint Comp M2, EOtech, and currently with a Vortex PST 1-4x...YMMV!
Re: Need help buying my first AR
For the money you can not go wrong with a Bravo co. Rifle. Great Ar. Also In your price range are the Colts and LMT. All nice rifles. For the first Ar. I would get a M4 profile barrel. And std. "F" marked fornt sight. And a good supply of Mags and ammo.
For the money you can not go wrong with a Bravo co. Rifle. Great Ar. Also In your price range are the Colts and LMT. All nice rifles. For the first Ar. I would get a M4 profile barrel. And std. "F" marked fornt sight. And a good supply of Mags and ammo.
Re: Need help buying my first AR
+1 for BCM
Before you buy, look into a mid-length gas sytem barrel, either 16" or 14.5" with a perm. attached flash hider. BCM sells both. I'm not sold yet on CHF barrels. Standard chrome lined work just fine. You may want to avoid a LW barrel unless you know that your specific needs dictate it. It tends to be more of a specialized item, and you need to weigh the benefits of it over the drawbacks for your particular needs.
When I get out of "clone-building mode", and start building an AR the way I want it, it will most likely be a BCM 16" mid-length with a free floated handguard of some sort with a fixed front sight and a light-weight barrel. But that is what I want for my needs, and I can't say you will need the same.
A standard profile 16" mid-length with MOE handguards and standard front sight post from BCM would be an EXCELLENT first rifle. You can buy a complete BCM upper (cosmetic blem) for around $300 and change. Couple that with the above upper and you will have a shooter.
Another word on quality. Any of the big manufacturing houses like Armalite, Bushmaster, DPMS, Rock River, etc, make good products. The trouble is that you can get better quality for the same or less money. By this I mean bolts and BCGs that have been shot peened, MPI, HPT bolts ON EACH PART. These larger manufacturers seem to only batch test their parts. Other manufacturers like DD, Spikes, BCM, Palmetto State Armory, Colt test every part, not just samples of batches. I would look at these first.
That said, I have a Bushmaster 16" M4 profile barrel that I have had mostly no trouble with. The only trouble has been the gas key screws coming loose from not being properly staked (a relatively well-documented problem with Bushmaster,and a few other manufacturers). Otherwise it has been great.
+1 for BCM
Before you buy, look into a mid-length gas sytem barrel, either 16" or 14.5" with a perm. attached flash hider. BCM sells both. I'm not sold yet on CHF barrels. Standard chrome lined work just fine. You may want to avoid a LW barrel unless you know that your specific needs dictate it. It tends to be more of a specialized item, and you need to weigh the benefits of it over the drawbacks for your particular needs.
When I get out of "clone-building mode", and start building an AR the way I want it, it will most likely be a BCM 16" mid-length with a free floated handguard of some sort with a fixed front sight and a light-weight barrel. But that is what I want for my needs, and I can't say you will need the same.
A standard profile 16" mid-length with MOE handguards and standard front sight post from BCM would be an EXCELLENT first rifle. You can buy a complete BCM upper (cosmetic blem) for around $300 and change. Couple that with the above upper and you will have a shooter.
Another word on quality. Any of the big manufacturing houses like Armalite, Bushmaster, DPMS, Rock River, etc, make good products. The trouble is that you can get better quality for the same or less money. By this I mean bolts and BCGs that have been shot peened, MPI, HPT bolts ON EACH PART. These larger manufacturers seem to only batch test their parts. Other manufacturers like DD, Spikes, BCM, Palmetto State Armory, Colt test every part, not just samples of batches. I would look at these first.
That said, I have a Bushmaster 16" M4 profile barrel that I have had mostly no trouble with. The only trouble has been the gas key screws coming loose from not being properly staked (a relatively well-documented problem with Bushmaster,and a few other manufacturers). Otherwise it has been great.
