Need help figuring payload weight on SUV

[TheGerman]

Was going to drive cross country and was looking at renting a SUV to carry a considerable amount of weight yet still get somewhat decent gas mileage compared to something like a big ass uhaul truck. Anyways, I've been doing some homework and am getting confused on the payload weights some of the manufacturers put on their sites as opposed to the calculations I've been told to do.

As far as the actual payload, I was told to take the GVWR and subtract the curb weight. For example, the Grand jeep Laredo shows the following:

Base Curb Weight - Automatic Trans 4533 lbs.
Capacity/Weights - Fuel Tank Capacity 24.6 gal.
Capacity/Weights - Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) 6500
Payload Capacity - Standard 1222 lbs.
Towing Capacity - Maximum 5000 lbs.
Towing Capacity - Standard 5000 lbs.

Well, 6500-4533 = 1967 allowable payload

Why are they only listing it as 1222? Am I missing something as far as weight? My understanding was that the payload was anything more than the vehicle with a full tank of gas. So you would need to calculate all your item weight as well as any passenger weight; why is there a 700 pound difference? Lawyerd numbers to keep it under the real payload max or am I not considering something?

 

[MAGUA]

For a short haul i would say use the SUV with caution. Driving cross country i would use a 3/4 or 1 ton diesel pickup or van. Being able to safely stop would be my concern.

 

[High Binder]

or am I not considering something?

Not really, there are a ton of factors at play here such as tire quality/pressure/etc. The numbers on the sticker your looking at are fairly arbitrary because of the factors. Having spent a lot of time hauling heavy shit from state to state (I'm far from a pro though) I would say that 1200lbs is a shit load of extra weight for a SUV but doable. If you're renting anyway, I would try to persuade you to just get a truck that's built for that. Fuel mileage in a 4500lb SUV with 1200lbs payload is going to be worse than a giant 7400lb diesel with a 1200lb payload. Go for the truck, you'll have the right tool for the job and if you get the diesel you'll get slightly better mileage, plus you'll get far better weight distribution. I drive a 7420lb F350 diesel and even with a load I still get ~18mpg on the highway (21-22 without a load). Another thing you could do is rent the SUV and then tack a trailer onto it, that would free up a lot of space/weight limits and pulling a trailer is pretty easy.

 

[unrepentant]

It's been a long time since I had to go through these calculations myself, but this is what I remember as correct-- the disparity in sums between your load capacity computations and the factory specs are because the OEM's lower numbers take into consideration such things as braking distance (essentially the power of the stock brakes to stop as efficiently as 'empty'), suspension (and all its' accumulated parts [and their ability to withstand stress--nuts, bolts, shims, bushings, etc.]), and handling. It's not as easy as just calculating the load capacity at rest.

I towed across country several times; I loaded my truck to it's OEM capacity and towed a trailer. The total weight of the loaded trailer was 40% of the OEM's recommended capacity, with a tongue weight of 20% of maximum capacity. The brakes were the weak link. Fortunately I was on my last trip--just 4 miles from my destination I cruised to a stop in an emergency situation. I was lucky to have the open space in front of me. Foot to the floor and all, the brakes couldn't handle the load; I couldn't believe how much it took to stop; I probably overshot my expected stopping distance by 130'.

GAWR can be a consideration, too, if you load too much over one axle. The entire load should be distributed evenly. While the published load capacity numbers for each vehicle "model" might be available on the Internet, the door sticker will give you the actual "true" capacity--each model weighs differently according to the options included in the purchase--any extra OEM options add weight which reduce the door sticker carrying capacity from model to model.

Edited to add: I agree with High Binder--rent a truck rated for the job. There's nuthin' as worrysome as pulling a hill with your foot to the floor, wondering if it's gonna be this way the entire trip... the obvious worry is "will I make it?" What'll you do if you gotta unload everything (valuable) for repair service?

 

[Sean the Nailer]

If "keeping thing enclosed" is a bit of a though/issue for you, then at the very least I'd start to look at renting a Suburban. But vehicles can 'tow' alot more than they can carry. Is one of the enclosed "U-Haul type" trailers an option for you?

 

[E. Bryant]

The OEM will usually state the payload with the assumption that there is a 150lb passenger in each seat, full tank of gas, etc. For an SUV, this additional load takes a big bite from the apparent cargo capacity.

Also note that "base weight", as defined by the manufacturer, is often hopelessly optimistic when compared to real-world optioning. Even my very lightly optioned base-model pickup weighs about 150lbs more than the manufacturer claims.

My recommendation is to get a baseline weight for your vehicle by using a local set of certified scales (check with scrap yards, agricultural supply stores, truck stops, etc. to find a set), and use that versus the GVWR to obtain the actual cargo capacity. Also beware the axle rating; some vehicles are difficult to maximize GVWR without violating the axle rating, while others provide very generous margins.

And obviously, make sure that the vehicle is in proper working order - especially in regards to tire condition and pressure.

EDIT: If you're looking for a rental vehicle, note that Enterprise (and possibly others) rent full-size cargo vans. I would feel better about loading up one of those, as opposed to a mid-size SUV.

 

[TheGerman]

I had looked at most of the suggestions mentioned here but have a few other issues: I'm bringing 2 dogs with me a passenger, and mostly everything needs to be covered from rain/snow/whatever. The other thing is the rental companies don't have or allow trailer hitches on their vehicles, as I thought a UHaul trailer would be the way to go as well. Renting a cargo van or truck from Florida to Utah will run in excess of 1400$ for 3-4 days as opposed to less than $200 for the SUV.

That's the dilemma. From my estimates I (including dogs, me, passenger and materials) am going to be hauling about 1100 pounds all on the highway. I wanted to be sure that while I obviously have to be cautious I wasn't getting too close on having a catastrophic failure as opposed to just having to keep my attention on driving.

Am also considering a minivan (yeah, I know) as it's the same price and the payload weights for them are a few 100 pounds higher and are lower to the ground; am I correct to think they distribute weight better?

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Am also considering a minivan (yeah, I know) ........ am I correct to think they distribute weight better?

Have you seen the size of some of those soccer moms? And their knitting/pizza party circles? Re-defines "PayLoad", right there.

 

[TheGerman]

Have you seen the size of some of those soccer moms? And their knitting/pizza party circles? Re-defines "PayLoad", right there.

Yeah I know. I figure a minivan has a lower center of gravity and larger footprint. I called a local Dodge dealer and spoke to a guy about the payload of the Caravan and he said to simply distribute the weight and make sure the tires are pressured correctly. I'm thinking with the minivan, and not driving 80mph, that it will be safer, allow for more room and storage and be a little less cramped for all involved.

We shall see.

 

[jcfd2201]

The minivan or full size suv (Suburban) would be the best choice IMO based on the info provided. The MV will get less than advertised MPG with that kind of load while the full size SUV will maintain closer to advertised MPG even with the load. Should you decide to go with the minivan or midsize suv you will need to see if it has independent rear suspension. When vehicles with IRS are overloaded the tires tend to lean in as the suspension squats under the heavier load. This in turn can cause premature and/or excessive tire wear.

 

[E. Bryant]

Am also considering a minivan (yeah, I know) as it's the same price and the payload weights for them are a few 100 pounds higher and are lower to the ground; am I correct to think they distribute weight better?

The answer here is "maybe". You generally want the weight as low as it can go (advantage to the minivan in this regard), and you generally want to get it ahead of the rear axle - a possible advantage to the minivan, depending upon how its seats are configured. If you can either stow the seats in the floor (for something like the Dodge/Chrysler vans) or at least pull them out and stack them towards the rear, then you'll likely end up with something better-suited than a typical midsize SUV.

A Ford Transit Connect might also be a suitable vehicle, if you can find one for rent somewhere (which I kinda doubt).

 

[dddoo7]

I hauled just over 900 lbs of reloading components in my Toyota Yaris. I was by myself and distributed it evenly throughout the car mostly on the floorboards. My fuel mileage went from 40 down to 37.5 over a 10 hour trip. Acceleration went down to nothing, but once up to speed it did fine (up to 75 mph). I know this is less weight than you are talking about, but it is a much smaller car as well. I would just be sure to keep the weight low and allow extra stopping room.


--Daniel

 

[TheGerman]

Outbound Tuesday.

We're so going to die.

I'll post what I took when I arrive because noone will believe me.

 

[Victor N TN]

Don't forget to air the tires a little more. I always run my Tahoe tires, BF Goodrich All Terain TA Radials, 45 PSI in the front and 40 in the rear. Those pressures seem to give a more even tire wear pattern. Lower pressures make the tires wear on the outsides.

 

[TheGerman]

Made it.

2564 total miles. Left Friday at 530am EST made it to Utah on Sunday morning 900am MST.

1 minivan
2 dogs
1 cat
1 slightly annoyed mother
Roughly 1k pounds in ammo
200lbs reloading supplies/presses
A load of primers (hey, i brought a fire extinguisher!)
All of my highend weapons


Weight was right on max. Checked tire pressure and tire wear at every stop. Holy shit am I never doing this again.

On a sidenote, I will never make fun of minivans again. But Enterprise may want to check to make sure nothing is bent