-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Rifle Scopes NEED HELP, setting ZeroStop of STEINER Military 5-25 × 56 mm
- Thread starter Dave62677
- Start date
Don't follow the directions. Just loosen, set to zero, and tighten. It's a mechanical zero 2 tenths below zero. If you need to rezero down lower than 2 tenths, loosen, rotate 180 degrees tighten, adjust the clicks you need down, loosen, reset to zero. Good luck. Let me know if you need anything else.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Direct and to the point! You don't need to "set" anything, the zero stop is built into the turret.
Geb
Im lost as well. I can't figure it out for the life of me. Im 1.5 Mils high at 100 yards. I wish there was a video as well.
If you are 1.5 mils high, loosen the setscrews and turn the knob to 1.5 then tighten the screws. Done.
The set screws are under the turret? The two screws on the turret are loose and it won't go down any further. Maybe with the 20MOA base Ill have trouble getting a 100 yard zero?
There is a mechanical stop 2 tenths below zero. You cannot turn it below that. It is the zero stop. If you have to zero below your existing zero, loosen the screws, turn the turret 180 degrees, retighten set screws, zero, loosen screws, turn turret to zero, tighten screws. Or as said above if you know it's 1.5, loosen, turn to 1.5 UP, tighten, turn back (down) to zero. You have 50ish down, you're good with your 20 base.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Last edited:
The set screws in the elevation knob.
Think of it this way.
You are 1.5 mils high right now.
If you loosen the set screws and turn the knob to 1.5 then tighten the setscrews, you have zeroed the turret. If you were to then turn the elevatio to 5, you would be 5 mils high, right? If you then turn it back to zero, you are zero mils high. The zero stop is a few tenths below zero in the knob... that's all the farther you can turn the KNOB. The knob has a little mechanism inside it to limit the travel and make the 2nd turn indicator pop.
If you were to remove the knob (don't remove it, BTW) you could turn the shaft all the way in either direction until you ran out of travel in the screw mechanism, around 30 mils, which is much more than the 26.5 mils the knob limits rotation is limited to.
When you get the scope zeroed at 100 with a 20 MOA cant, you will likely not get the full 26.5 mils of elevation the knob allows... you will be limited at the top by the screw mechanism inside the turret, not the knob. You will also have left a bunch of travel below the knob's zero. The only way to access that travel is to tip the scope down a little more with more cant in the mount.
Sent from my ASUS Transformer Pad TF300TL using Tapatalk
I agree. Everyone says to ignore the instructions, but the instructions warn against loosening the set screw more than half way. If you loosen both set screws the turret will still not turn below zero. There is no way to go down.
The two set screws only need about half a turn before the turret will spin freely so you can align it to the zero mark.
It's a mechanical stop 2 clicks below zero. That's the zero stop. To set your zero below zero, loosen set screws, turn turret 180 degrees, tighten set screws, zero, loosen set screws and return knob to zero.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
thanks Quickdraw, you're the man. I ended up in the grass, proned out, turret off...felt like worst case scenario. It was in pieces and would stop at random numbers like 5, the collar wouldn't fully elevate for 15-30, etc. I finally got it together and it seems to be fine now and with -48MOA in my rail/unimount I should be able to dial to 1500 yards with my zero at 100 yards. Full use of the scope's travel. I just wish it would actually stop at zero instead of .2 below.
To delixe & gebhardt, you guys were right on and I know it's really simple once you know, but I think it was still confusing because of the steiner instructions on page 5. They do manage to put the fear in you about removing the turret but otherwise they are way off:
#2. use hex wrench to "loosen the set screw"....should be plural since there are two of them
#3. pull up slightly on the knob to the second white hash mark...nope. doesn't come up, no white hash mark. What scope model are they describing here?
#3. turn the knob clockwise...nope. the knob won't turn clockwise. CCW only. In #1 they say the instructions are for models that turn CW to zero so this error should not have been printed.
#5. push down firmly on the knob until it is firmly seated. again, there is no up/down on the 5-25 unless you pull the turret off.
If anyone else is struggling, Quickdraw, delixe and gebhardt are exactly right but I can see why you might still be confused...I sure was because I started with the factory instructions. So here is my reformed idiot version that I wish I would have had. I know, it's the same thing everyone else said but what can I say.
Steiner zerostop for dummies like me
To go down:
0. COMPLETELY ignore the steiner instructions, they will only confuse you
1. before you touch anything, you are going to calculate two numbers. First, calculate how far down you THINK you need to go based on boresight or round impact. bhoges was 1.5 mils. Mine was probably 12 mils or so due to rail/ring MOA. Write this number down for step 7.
2. Calculation #2: add a 20% or so buffer to that first #...for bhoges situation maybe add .5 for a total of 2 mils, for me maybe add 2 mils for a total of 14. Write down this padded number for step 5. Using this padded number in step 5 will ensure you don't have to go through the entire process again later. We are planning conservatively.
3. turn knob down to zero.
4. loosen the two set screws a half turn, enough that the knob can turn without clicking
5. dial UP to the padded number from #2. The dial should read the exact number you came up with so bhoges would see 2.0 on the dial.
6. tighten the set screws. Now the knob should click again when you turn it.
7. click down the amount you identified in #1. Count it if you need to. One click is .1 MIL so bhoges would count 15 clicks down (he would see .5 MIL on the dial at this point)
8. zero the weapon, fine tuning up and down until you're satisfied. because of the buffer in step 2 you still have some room to go down before you bottom out.
9. once you're impacting where you want, loosen the set screws 1/2 turn and turn the knob to the zero mark
10. tighten the set screws...good to go. Just remember that the mechanical stop will still go .2 below zero (wtf?)
Same as QD was saying, I know. Step 0 is the most important step, then it's the same as any other zerostop scope I think? not sure why the factory instructions are so far off.
Last edited:
Even after 2 cups of coffee this is hard to fathom! Just zeroed my S&B 5-25X this morning at dawn. Used plumb bob to mount my Accuracy 1st level and laser bore site that attaches in the end of the barrel with a strong magnet. (Sightmark laser bore site on Sale at OpticsPlanet with Free Shiping-Close Out. Green brighter in daylight, but almost twice as much as the red. You can use it sight in all your rifles and pistols). Made my gun life a lot easier! Always find myself on paper at 50 yards at the range, then pop out to 100 yards and after 3-5 shots done!
This does not have to be rocket science!
This does not have to be rocket science!
Last edited:
Agreed. You should have had 3 cups and bought a Steiner then all of this would have made sense.
that sucks...was the turret not coming up on the second turn? Or were you having tracking issues? You've got me worried, I had mine apart too. I think I got it all back together but there's a 1000yd match this weekend and I don't want any trouble!
I made the same mistake. Read the instruction in the manual, pulled up too much the cap pops out of the turret. Now I don't remember the original position of the cap and the turret stucks half way. Does anybody know how to put it back together? I greatly appreciate some insights!
There are only a few (maybe 4) positions it can be seated if I recall so you have 4 positions to try. Ive taken my turret off per reading the instructions when I first got it and of course set it aside without making a note of how it was orientated when I took it off but I guess I put it back on correctly since mine has worked flawlessly. I know when zeroed the two set screws on mine are facing the rear of the rifle. basically one on the left and one on the right if that helps. At least I think that is how they are orientated. I can check if needed to make sure Im not lying to anyone.
Thank you for replying!
I managed to put it back together and hear the clicks now. However, when I did the test fire, couldn't get anything on the paper. I think that I messed up (not breaking) the mechanical zero some how because the first level turret moves freely without the cap. I probably have to open it again and look at the internal closely.
Best of wishes,
Was it boresighted?
Is the turret elevating on the second turn, and stopping at -0.2ish?
Steiner instructions attached in case you don't have them...p5 has a photo of the proper position for the internals, p6 has the cap screw orientation.
I think Steiner has great CS, I would check with them if you can't get it. I'm clearly unqualified but if you can't find another solution I can take mine apart again and we'll figure it out on the phone. Mine is back together and tracked great at 1000 Sunday, no issues. Awesome scope.
Yes I did something wrong when put the cap back on. I looked at it again and there are 3 long pins and one short pin under the cap. There are 3 holes on the turret for the long pins but the short pin needs to be in correct position on the side of the cut out tab on top of turret shaft. First time I put it on, I'm not sure the short pin is on what side of the cut out (top of the shaft), the turret is stuck at 17ish, cannot go all the way to 26. Would you please look at your cap to see the short pin is on the right side or left side of the tap (as in picture with red circle on page 5) on top of the turret shaft.
When I first use it (the cap hasn't been removed), I fired the first shot and it was 2mils high. I loosen the screw, adjust the scope fired the second shot and got bullseye. Then I stop and read the manual which tells me to pull/push the cap up to see the white hash mark. I couldn't push it up so I unscrew the screws all the way out and push it up. Bam...it came out of the turret really quick. After that, it was a mess.
I re-read the manual try to fix the situation which the cap has been removed. You would think that you can turn in either direction all the way to reset the pin. Well...in my experience, you can only put the cap back in when the turret comes all the way down to zero, not the other direction like what the manual tells you. If you turn to the other direction (towards the 26 mark), the screws won't go in. I tried and one of the screw goes through the hole and dropped inside the turret even though I kept pressure on top of the cap. The screws just won't go in the groove if the turret is up all the way. One more thing, I'm pretty confused with the CCW and CW turret thingy. Mine is CCW and the manual said you only worry about this beginning step 2.
The instructions above this thread are priceless. For people like me, if you bought this scope, please read them carefully before you perform the zero in process. Otherwise, you'll lose some valuable range time (2.5 hours for me but finally packed up and go home frustrated!).
Regards,
This is because the Instructions are not correct in the manual for the 5-25x56 turrets. Luckily I had done enough to know something wasn't right so a little fiddling and mine was set. As you mentioned read the instructions above. It's stupid easy once you understand it's stupid easy and don't try to over complicate it.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
I was able to put everything back together. Lesson learned! Here some pictures and video:
1- Pins under the cap:
2- Tab on top of the shaft (notice the short pin above, it has to be on the left of the tab when you put the cap back on top of the turret):
3- First screw location (not as instruction of the manual which supposed to be 3 o'clock.
4- Second screw location (not as instruction of the manual which supposed to be 6 o'clock)
5- Original mechanical stop location:
Here is the video I took after the works are done to check the turret. It turned all the way in either direction and the mechanical stop will be .2 below zero as the original state:
Thank you very much for all of the helps!
Last edited:
I've posted some pictures and video but it won't show up. Waiting for the Admin's approval.
Regards,
I will throw in my observation from this morning. I mounted my new 5-25x56 MSR on Spuhr 13mil base. I was rather pleasantly surprised when I went to check the boresight and it was the reticle appeared to be a good match with the bore view. Went to zero and first round 1mil high, made my adjustment, second round bullseye, no adjustment, third round same hole.
In was anticipating the Steiner scope to have the reticle centered with 13 mil up and 13 mil down and centered for windage. That was the case for windage but someone at the factory must have set the erector turned nearly to the bottom perhaps in anticipation of someone using the elevation. That was a really nice surprise.
In was anticipating the Steiner scope to have the reticle centered with 13 mil up and 13 mil down and centered for windage. That was the case for windage but someone at the factory must have set the erector turned nearly to the bottom perhaps in anticipation of someone using the elevation. That was a really nice surprise.
Like some of you, I did made that mistake and pop the cap open. I will definitely make the complain with Steiner for the instruction, BTW. I hassled through about 15 minutes to have the turret back to the original place, at least I think I did, but who knows. I did little test running. Now it stops at 0(-.2), but at highest, it stops at death 26. Was it supposed go up to 26 or little more? I did not pay attention when I first put it on.
Then, for test I loosen the screw at 0 and turned 5 mils up and tighten them to set. That should set my 0 at 5 mil up from the original setting, right? Then I realized that turret does not goes up to 26 and fell about 22 and stops. Are all these supposed to be this way? Or should I be working again?
And please if one of you is working for Steiner, could you having Steiner to post a video on it including trouble shooting after the turret cap opened situation. It will be a great way to making up for the idiotic sorry excuse for the instruction.
Then, for test I loosen the screw at 0 and turned 5 mils up and tighten them to set. That should set my 0 at 5 mil up from the original setting, right? Then I realized that turret does not goes up to 26 and fell about 22 and stops. Are all these supposed to be this way? Or should I be working again?
And please if one of you is working for Steiner, could you having Steiner to post a video on it including trouble shooting after the turret cap opened situation. It will be a great way to making up for the idiotic sorry excuse for the instruction.
I think you're good if you're getting 26 up from zero. The erector tube can only travel so far, if you take out 5 mil by moving your zero it makes sense that you would lose it at the other end. Even if you were routinely shooting at 1000 yards you'll probably never have a chance to use more than 13 mils so 22 is definitely more than most of us will ever need.
Also, don't forget you've got a superb optic there. I know it's stressful when you have an expensive investment and you're worried it's not right but they are extremely rugged and precise. Once you get out to the range and start using it I think you're going to be very happy.
Last edited:
The problem is not of the cap pops out but if you turn the turret or at least the top part of the erector tube without the cap (yes it moves freely without the cap on) then not much you can do. If you did not accidentally turn the turret while the cap is off then you might be able to put it back on. If you did turn the turret, well... I'm sorry but it will be a mess. I tried everything, even talk to the Steiner's rep over the phone and it just wont work. My scope is with Steiner now for repair.
So as long as you don't remove the cap and can get -.2 and 26 with full turns the optic is where it was set from the factory or is it possible to roll off the factory setting if you loose your marks in re zeroing.
That all depends on the amount of cant on your base/mounts as far as to how much you will have left over for elevation. With 40moa worth of cant on my base and a 6mm Creedmoor I only have around 20mils, however that 21 mils takes me past a mile so its plenty of elevation for that setup.
You're zeroed and you have two full rotations up? You're in business my friend! The scope is actually really rugged and well designed. Don't let our earlier confusion with the pdf instructions infect you. Let us know how it shoots.
That's awesome. I put in 50moa on my 308 hoping I get a chance to try a mile one day, but with two turns I think I'll still have to hold! 308s fly like a school bus compared to your Creedmoor.
Last edited:
When I did the mile shot with my 308 for the novelty part of it I needed 28.3mils with a 100 yard zero to get there with a 185gn Berger juggernaut and 185gn Berger VLD. I had a 12"x24" target standing tall ways and only went two for 20 but I hit the damn thing.
would have worked out better if I could have hung the target long ways. Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
I have received the scope back from Steiner. They put everything back together nicely! Thing that I don't understand is when I try to do the bore-sighting, I have to turn the elevation up to around 20ish to match the sight through the barrel. Is it normal? I believe it is traveling way too much since I have 0 MIL/MOA Spuhr mount (Spuhr SP-4001). It's getting strange because when I first use with no adjustment, brand new out of the box (before I accidentally removed the cap), it was only about 2 mils high and I was on the paper instantly. Now it is 20 mils low and if I use the default zero setting, I can't even see where the bullet was hitting at 50 yards. How to check if they install the cap back on correctly?
Last edited:
With a 0moa base you probably need that much to get the gun to zero. I run 40moa worth of base/mount and still have around 6mils or so below my zero.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Thank you sir! But as I mentioned, when I first use it, I got it on paper instantly. It was a bit high but easy to correct. Now with the same default zero out of the box, my rifle shot way too low?! What gives?
No clue. They may have set it up bottomed out so the only way you could go was up which would solve any issues with figuring out how to get it to go down if needed.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
