need some load data for 10mm auto

bohem

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Not exactly the normal thread topic, but I figured you guys would be able to help me out pretty easily.

I have a box of 200 XTP's sitting at home and a few pounds of Blue Dot and some Power Pistol for my 9's and 10's. I'd like to put some BD or PP behind those 200's but Alliant has no data for a 200 grainer in a 10mm or a 40SW

Anyone have something I could start with and work up? I'm not looking for long brass life, the final loads are going to be probably 50 total loads on the shelf, most in my carry piece. I won't be shooting a lot of them, I want something with some serious oompf.

The 155's and 165's that I have on order aren't showing up for another month or so.

Both 10mm's I have are Glocks, a 20 and a 29.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

My primary hunting load for my Glock model 20 is a 200 gr XTP in Win. brass over 10.0 gr of Blue Dot with a WLP primer for an average velocity of 1229 fps. This load has proven to be very accurate as well as effective.

As with using anyone elses load data it would be advised to start around 9.0 gr and work your way up until you find what your pistol prefers.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

I have tried to see how much power I can get from 10mm.

Not much with a stock Glock barrel.

With an aftermarket barrel, lots more power is possible.

This guy has a web site that quotes me about case support and has someone else's pics:


http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/kb-notes.html


Here are some of my notes from working up hot loads:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">200 gr. Update:
Blue Dot 200 gr. .658", WLP, 13.25 gr., 1.3", case full, powder fully
compressed, Barsto, ok, 49% overload
Steel 200 gr. .658, WLP, 14 gr., 1.3", case full, powder could be
compressed more, Barsto, ok, [no Alliant data]
Power Pistol, 200 gr. .658", 9 gr., 1.3", could go higher, Barsto, ok, 17%
overload
"Hi-Skor" 800-X 7.8gr 1130fps 32500 psi
800X, 200 gr. .658", 14.2 gr., G20 Barsto, small case bulge, must stop, 82%
overload </div></div>

I can get more power from 40sw, because the small primer pocket case design is stronger and that more than makes up for the smaller case volume.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

Yikes those are some HOT loads!

I have a 6" barrel from LWD in 40 SW for my G20, I might have to try working up some burners in the 40 brass that I have, thanks.

I'm not sure I want to push them quite THAT hard, but I'm very impressed it can go that far.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

40 sw with case support can go the full 44 max load:
15.5 gr 800X 200gr.

That load will make the primer fall out of the weaker 10mm brass.

To get that much powder to fit, double compression is required.

I wish I had a 40sw barrel for the G20, so I could see how much velocity is possible with that pistol.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">40 sw with case support can go the full 44 max load:
15.5 gr 800X 200gr.

That load will make the primer fall out of the weaker 10mm brass.

To get that much powder to fit, double compression is required.

I wish I had a 40sw barrel for the G20, so I could see how much velocity is possible with that pistol. </div></div>

HOLY CRAP! Are you freakin kidding me?

I got my 40 SW barrel from Lone Wolf Distributors, I'm not 100% certain but I think they advertised their G20 conversion barrel as having a fully supported chamber. I have the 6" extended barrel in Stainless, with shipping it was 128 bucks.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

No, I am not kidding, but the loads I mentioned were experimental, not practical.

You can follow recipes in a load book, and you can go advanced and work up your own.

To do an incremental work up in a semi auto pistol, I would make a series of handloads with increases of 0.1 gr of powder. In a cartridge box, if they get spilled, they are worthless, unless the load is written on the case with a Sharpie. A Post it map in the cartridge box with a map of which load is which will help.

The bullets need clearance. A handload work up with more and more powder, until the bullet does not seat as far, will make surprise failures. Each cartridge must be tested to fall in and out of the chamber.

If a gun blows up, there are many secondary failures. What to watch for in the work up is primary failures.

Wrap the pistol with a towel and shoot each round one at a time, with the magazine in the pistol.

Catch each case with the towel, look at it with magnification, and put it back in the cartridge box before resuming the work up.

Before working up, I would put a case in the barrel, and scribe a line on the case with a needle that outlines the feed ramp.
Measure the case base to scribed line max distance.
Cross section another case and measure the web thickness.
If the two measurement are equal, there is perfect case support.
The amount the the scribed line measurement is bigger is the amount of unsupported thin case wall.

9mm will be a .160" web. The line should be .180" or less.
40sw will be a .180" web. The line at .235" is poor.
10mm will be a .180" web. The line at .235" is poor.
45acp will be a .180" web. The line at .235" is poor.

The things you are looking for that will stop the work up:
1) Guppy belly case bulge forms on the brass 90 degrees from the extractor mark[from poor case support, a grain or two higher and it blows a hole will damage a few gun parts. Another grain or two and the case head blow off, many gun parts will be damaged and the shooter and bystander can get injured.]
2) primer piercing [magnum primer cups are thicker and firing pin holes can be bushed]
3) primer falling out [primer pocket and extractor groove too close, the worst is 10mm, the second worst in 7.62x39mm Large Boxer]
4) barrel splitting [happens in CZ52s. Don't work up hot loads in CZ52s. The old load books are wrong. I have contacted the authors.]

Once you have found a real limit, the practical load should back off 6% powder charge per Vernom Speer 1956.

In semi handguns there is another limitation, recoil.
If the cases fly more than 5 feet to land on the ground, the recoil spring is inadequate and the slide is hammering the frame. A little of this is ok, but too much can wear out the gun, the bones, the nerves, and make a guy flinch.

link to an old post of mine calcualting how far cases fly

If the recoil spring force is increased with triple springs with right hand twist on the inner and outer and left hand twist on the middle recoil spring, then 40 or 50 pound is possible.
This will create other problems, the slide will move so fast forward that the chamber will come up empty. The mag spring can be doubled up to speed the ammo rise time, but this makes the magazine hold one less round and takes a big effort to load.
The grip required to chamber a round with a 50 pound force at the rear of slide travel is only possessed by big strong men or little girls that put the slide in a vise.

One can increase the mass of the slide, but that makes it heavier to carry.

What does it all mean?
If one has improved case support, he can work up hotter loads, until the correct recoil spring force becomes a problem.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Clark</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No, I am not kidding, but the loads I mentioned were experimental, not practical.

You can follow recipes in a load book, and you can go advanced and work up your own.

To do an incremental work up in a semi auto pistol, I would make a series of handloads with increases of 0.1 gr of powder. In a cartridge box, if they get spilled, they are worthless, unless the load is written on the case with a Sharpie. A Post it map in the cartridge box with a map of which load is which will help.

The bullets need clearance. A handload work up with more and more powder, until the bullet does not seat as far, will make surprise failures. Each cartridge must be tested to fall in and out of the chamber.

If a gun blows up, there are many secondary failures. What to watch for in the work up is primary failures.

Wrap the pistol with a towel and shoot each round one at a time, with the magazine in the pistol.

Catch each case with the towel, look at it with magnification, and put it back in the cartridge box before resuming the work up.

Before working up, I would put a case in the barrel, and scribe a line on the case with a needle that outlines the feed ramp.
Measure the case base to scribed line max distance.
Cross section another case and measure the web thickness.
If the two measurement are equal, there is perfect case support.
The amount the the scribed line measurement is bigger is the amount of unsupported thin case wall.

9mm will be a .160" web. The line should be .180" or less.
40sw will be a .180" web. The line at .235" is poor.
10mm will be a .180" web. The line at .235" is poor.
45acp will be a .180" web. The line at .235" is poor.

The things you are looking for that will stop the work up:
1) Guppy belly case bulge forms on the brass 90 degrees from the extractor mark[from poor case support, a grain or two higher and it blows a hole will damage a few gun parts. Another grain or two and the case head blow off, many gun parts will be damaged and the shooter and bystander can get injured.]
2) primer piercing [magnum primer cups are thicker and firing pin holes can be bushed]
3) primer falling out [primer pocket and extractor groove too close, the worst is 10mm, the second worst in 7.62x39mm Large Boxer]
4) barrel splitting [happens in CZ52s. Don't work up hot loads in CZ52s. The old load books are wrong. I have contacted the authors.]

Once you have found a real limit, the practical load should back off 6% powder charge per Vernom Speer 1956.

In semi handguns there is another limitation, recoil.
If the cases fly more than 5 feet to land on the ground, the recoil spring is inadequate and the slide is hammering the frame. A little of this is ok, but too much can wear out the gun, the bones, the nerves, and make a guy flinch.

link to an old post of mine calcualting how far cases fly

If the recoil spring force is increased with triple springs with right hand twist on the inner and outer and left hand twist on the middle recoil spring, then 40 or 50 pound is possible.
This will create other problems, the slide will move so fast forward that the chamber will come up empty. The mag spring can be doubled up to speed the ammo rise time, but this makes the magazine hold one less round and takes a big effort to load.
The grip required to chamber a round with a 50 pound force at the rear of slide travel is only possessed by big strong men or little girls that put the slide in a vise.

One can increase the mass of the slide, but that makes it heavier to carry.

What does it all mean?
If one has improved case support, he can work up hotter loads, until the correct recoil spring force becomes a problem. </div></div>

Now THERE is a wealth of information!

I have no intentions of chasing a velocity record with my 10mm, I'm sure it can be an addicting pursuit, but I have several other time consuming ones already I'm not sure I can handle another one. My G29 is a carry weapon and as such I want it to 100% reliable as Glock designed it. I'm pretty sure I can tweak things and make changes here and there, but for the sake of putting some lead into a bad guy, I don't need it to come out with 44 mag velocities. The hot 10's will do just nicely for that.

I will probably end up getting bored at one point and seeing how hard I can push a 40 case without making any changes to the pistol.

I will take a look at the amount of support that is in the conversion barrel, thanks for that tip. Sounds like you've got quite the time involved in this, thank you very much for the help.

I'm still shocked at how fast you can push a properly supported 40 cal round.
 
Re: need some load data for 10mm auto

JtP I was just given a box of that stuff actually. One of my friends from college came to visit and brought a box with him. He felt bad shooting up the 10's that I have without replacing them so he brough those... I was pretty impressed by the 2 that I cooked off to get a feel for them.


Also-

I started to do a ladder test on the Blue Dot data that is in here. Started at 9.5 grains and did a 9.5, then jumped to 9.7 and went to 10.7 in 0.1g increments. I stopped at 10.0 because the brass is getting a decent smile to it and I'm almost certain that the recoil spring in the G20 was bottoming out on the stops. The recoil became very sharp and hard to handle from 9.9 to 10.0 step and the brass started getting thrown about 40 feet instead of the usual 6-8 feet. I think I found the limit on them.

Still, 9.9 grains of BD is WAY hotter than a limit load + 5% with the Ramshot that I had in there for comparison. Same 200gr XTP, I just switched the powder. Cases were new, unfired Starline. CCI LP primers.

No chrono data, my dad's chrono is broken (remember NOT to shoot the chrony when trying to get data) so I'm just going by felt recoil and brass pressure signs.
 
Just joined.
I'm looking for 10mm carbine load data. Im trying to get the max velocity and accuracy. Just bought a 11.5' SBR and I have a 45cal can for it. Going to shoot 180gr XTP at pigs. I've shot many pigs out on the ranch with my Ruger SR1911 Target as a complement to my AR15. I'm setting this carbine up with night vision and suppressed. In my 5" 1911 I use 9.3gr of Blue Dot under the 180 XTP and a CCI mag primer. I found that combo to be very accurate. Any suggestions on a starting point for a carbine will help. Thanks, Dave