Need steel target advice

[Sendit6.5]

I’m wanting to buy or build some steel targets. We have lots of places at the ranch I manage to stretch out our shooting and I’d like to have some fairly portable targets. That way I can set up several distances at one location and, the next day, go to another area to shoot. With more than 10k acres to play on I don’t want to shoot the same range all the time. So, I’m looking to buy some targets and either build or buy some stands. I need some advice on some affordable steel gongs, what sizes to get for shooting out to 1000yds and which stands to buy or build?

I saw that JC Steel has some clever brackets that are cheap and allow you to make a stand out of rebar. That seems like it may be a good way to go. In my head these type of stands seem sturdier and might produce a better gong on impact. Any reason why this is not a good way to go? But, I’ve got a welder and lots of scraps laying around the ranch. Anyone have some good stand designs? What about using old plow discs as a target? Is AR500 plate commonly available at larger metal yards? I could go to San Antonio and buy some, if it is; and if it can be cut with a regular torch.

I’ve got a lot of ground to play on but not a lot of funds to invest in expensive targets. I’m probably looking at a budget of $350-$400 max. I’ll be mostly shooting 6.5 Creedmoor and smaller with an occasional day out with a 300wm.

I appreciate any advice!

 

[newguy2k3v2]

I’m wanting to buy or build some steel targets. We have lots of places at the ranch I manage to stretch out our shooting and I’d like to have some fairly portable targets. That way I can set up several distances at one location and, the next day, go to another area to shoot. With more than 10k acres to play on I don’t want to shoot the same range all the time. So, I’m looking to buy some targets and either build or buy some stands. I need some advice on some affordable steel gongs, what sizes to get for shooting out to 1000yds and which stands to buy or build?

I saw that JC Steel has some clever brackets that are cheap and allow you to make a stand out of rebar. That seems like it may be a good way to go. But, I’ve got a welder and lots of scraps laying around the ranch. Anyone have some good stand designs? What about using old plow discs as a target? Is AR500 plate commonly available at larger metal yards? I could go to San Antonio and buy some, if it is; and if it can be cut with a regular torch.

I’ve got a lot of ground to play on but not

Buy the targets. Build your own stands. You can buy sheets of ar500 but it will probably be special order. Cutting with a oxy/acetylene torch will screw up the heat treat along the cut. If you know someone that can laser or water jet it then it may be worthwhile to buy sheets.

 

[clcustom1911]

Cheap A36 steel of 3/8 (.375") thickness will take 308 and 6.5 Creedmoor from 250-300 yards and beyond all day. I had several 1/4" thick 12x12 A36 steel plates I used to put out from 250 to 1000. You dont necessarily neeeeeeed AR400 or AR500 steel for any/all shooting. If you plan on doing 300WM inside of 300, then yes, I recommend AR500 for that.


Edit, for whatever it's worth, A36 steel took hundreds of hits and and slight pitting at the 250+ distance. The only time I ever had penetration was whe I put it at about 100 yards and was shooting 175gr 308 rounds at it. Those passed right through the 1/4 plate. The 3/8 made a pit with near penetration.

 

[Steel head]

3/8 AR500 out to 1000
1/4 AR500 out to 1400
I use 1/4 reg steel for my 1500 and further targets

I’m transitioning to T posts and hooks for the target stands.

 

[acudaowner]

yes to all those ideas a nice choose your own target rich area to shoot you are blessed sniff sniff lucky pricks lol . 1500 yards only in a dream but oh what a great dream .

 

[bnanaphone]

I got my AR500 targets from ShootingTargets7 and made my stands from 1/2” rebar & 1/2” black iron pipe. I use 3” nipples & 1/2” tees (thread a tee onto each end of the nipple & cut the nipple in the middle) to put everything together. Then, put a tee on top of each vertical piece of rebar with the piece of rebar for the target through the horizontal openings of the tee. I put eye bolts through the holes in the target so it can’t fall off from impacts (as opposed to s hooks).

For my smaller rimfire targets, I bought a rebar bender from Zoro online & made Shepard’s hooks from 3/8” rebar.

they hold up very well, hardly get hit and are easy to replace in the event of damage.

 

[stello1001]

Not disagreeing with you or against your idea of moving the targets, but why would you want to shoot in one area today and then setup elsewhere tomorrow to shoot elsewhere?

I just remembered my plate is AR400 actually and not AR500. It's held up to my 6.5CM from 200 yards out to 1000. It is 3/8 of an inch thick.

I plan to buy a 75% ISPC 1/4 thick for shooting with 223 from 300 out. I also plan to use it for shooting with my 6.5CM from 700 and out. My 6.5 is launching 140 grain bullets at 2720FPS.

I don't know why you want to look for AR500 in SA, maybe you already know of a few places. I've found lots of places in CC to have AR500 due to refineries all around. As a result, many fabrication shops, steel and metal work business, etc have lots and lots of steel to choose from. You can find it cheap.

I've gotten pretty bored of shooting a 12x12 square place anywhere inside 600 yards so I want to buy some smaller ones. So long as wind is minimal, I can stack rounds @500 yards in 5 inches with ease.

I would suggest to have a big plate to find where you're at (how off you may be) and then a small one to challenge yourself after you've figured out drop, wind, mirage, etc.

Good luck!

 

[Dill]

I’ve been looking at a stand similar to what you described, it is called “the last stand target stand”

 

[bnanaphone]

Just for @acudaowner

Went shooting over the weekend & had targets at 525 (5” & 10” green), 600 (6” green & 12” orange), 800 (2/3 IPSC) and 1000 (24” red square and 12” green plate).

 

[Jackomason]

I've always been a big fan of shootsteel7, and T-post hangers work well in the summer and depending on the style they can move enough to spot impacts solo. I've got the JC steel t-post bracket. Would consider their hanger but I've also got some Chanllenge targets Tpost hangers which are double sided (static/reactive) my wife got them for me and I think they were like $15. They do show wear but they've held up ok.

Ebay has some good deals, I got 2 %66 IPSC targets for like $80 or $90 and that's fairly large for out to 1k. Larger can be nice for gathering DOPE.

 

[JMGlasgow]

AA Targets | Targets for Practical Rifle Shooting

1st Class Shooting Targets

aatargets.com

 

[ZY100]

Sendit,

If you have the space and funding to set some targets out more power to you. We had one range where a few different firing positions gave entirely different solutions on the same targets due to some valleys and how the wind would drop off/accelerate around some terrain. Its your playground....do as much as you (and your wallet) will support!

I like JC steel, and they support many, many prize tables. Especially their T-Post hangars and slotted targets.

Event & Conference Management Software | Configio

Configio offers the most complete customizable feature set of any event management system & integrates with 40+ different CRMs & AMS. Learn more at Configio.com.

jcsteeltargets.configio.com

They just work well. I have welded up A LOT of rebar frames (a-posts with a ~ 4" lengths of pipe on the top and a rebar cross member). They work well, but are heavy, bulky and a bit of a pain to move around. I really like to be able to pound in a T-post and hang a target. Done and done. Sure, it is possible to shoot the T-post in half, but especially on a home range, it wont happen much if at all.

Think about "investing" in a KYL rack--put it out around 4/5/600 and and refine your wind calls.....

My 0.02...

PS--Tyler Kemp is good to go too! Forgot to mention MK machining!

ZY

 

[JoeZ]

Those JC Steel rebar brackets look like something I welded up years ago for more portable targets and I can say that system works great for portability, quick deployability, and compact storage. I can fit several targets on a single ATV and have them deployed in only minutes. No post pounder, no post hole digger, and no saw horse sized backers and you get an UKD (un-known distance) range in 15 minutes.

I use AR500 but we get it in at work all the time so its easy for me. Ready mix concrete and gravel pits use all sorts of wear protection material. Torch cut isn't the worst if you had to, about a 1/4" of the edge loses temper. At work we have a plasma cutter which is a little better so I use that. For 308 and bigger I use 3/8" inch to 400 yards. The 1/4" don't get penetrated at 300yds but they do start to curl. I use 1/4" for 223 at 300 yards and farther because it's too difficult for me to hear it ring otherwise.

Target size is all up to you. What are you trying to be good at? A whitetail deer vital area or man sized should be somewhere around 18". A PRS target will be smaller,

 

[Runnineh]

For a stand, I bought sawhorse brackets. Legs are 5 ft 2x4's and a 6 ft cross beam. I hang the steel with old fire hose. It's a cheap set up and easy to move around

 

[Boatninja]

Discs, the tiller type make good targets and ring loud, it’s just that hole in the middle....... I have seen them with chain links welded to the edge to shackle chains to hang from t-posts

 

[65x55guy]

Lots of cool ways to do it.

most decent sized towns (50k+) have a steel supplier or warehouse that also has either high def plasma, laser, or water jet services. Alternatively, you can find a water jet service.

I would advise having them quote you a 3/8” thick AR500 48x96 plate. There are several sizes you could cut it down to. I chose 1 @ 36” square, 3 @ 24” square, and the rest at 12”x24” or 12”x12”. Ended up with 10 or so great targets.

I think you could get 1/4” thick steel, but honestly you won’t save that much money.

Each rectangular target also has a 3/8” square hole cut about 2” from the top.

then I bought 10-12 tpost toppers. By far the easiest way to set up a range, IMHO. By using t posts, you can easily move targets around if you want some fun.

 

[Tyler Kemp]

I would love to make you an awesome deal on targets and hangers. I'm moving my shop soon and have literally tons of targets hanging out that we could have delivery services move...to your door.

My t-post mounts are a nice,modular design that don't simply top a t-post, but you can hang multiple mounts on a single posts, multiple targets on a single mount, etc.

Message me if interested.

Gen II T-Post Target Mount

Gen II T-Post Target Mount New Redesigned Gen II T-Post Target Mount. Lightweight and simple to use, our Gen II T-Post Mount now features a wrench cutout for 1/2-13 bolts and a one-piece design. Hang targets via a single spring-loaded carriage bolt for enhanced audibility and target ring. Our...

mkmachining.com

 

[JC0352]

If you need portability check out Primeaux Steel Targets’ shepherd hooks and bases. I bring this to hang a full size IPSC every time I go to the range. Set up/tear down is super fast and it’s really stable. No hammering t-posts into the ground.

Primeaux Targets

Now Shipping Nationwide!

www.primeauxtargets.com

 

[Kbh]

We've got several different types of home made target stands but I recently bought a couple of 1/4" ipsc targets from jc steel and got the t post hangers. Those hangers are the way to go in my opinion. 1/4" targets work fine shooting them at 750 and 1125 yards with non-magnums although I believe they are ok for magnums at 1000 or more. And they do ring nice.

 

[sam4886]

If you've got a metal supply house close, call and ask them about targets. My local pacific steel stocks water jet cut ar500 in lots of sizes. Pretty small dollars for their normal invoices, but they still keep it around. 12" round cost me like $8 last time I bought some.

If I were starting fresh, I'd do those t post brackets Tyler makes. Anything new I do will be getting them.

 

[Hobo Hilton]

Go to your local propane dealer and take a look at the rejected propane cylinders... Remove the valve if it is not already removed.

Drive a T post in the ground and hang a cylinder on it.

About as low budget as a ranch hand can get.

Hobo

 

[vinconco]

T Posts offer a cheap, stable and portable platform
Hang Fast Targets has an innovative hanger that works very well with T Posts
Multiple targets can be hung from the same post
Extremely reactive and loud because of the single mounting point.
Hardware is protected by the plate

 

[Deleted member 10043]

 

[AirGunShawn]

I personally like AR500 targets because they will last forever. The hook hangers that mount on the top of T post are really nice and made partially of AR500 but the T post themselves suck to move once they are driven into the ground. If they must be portable, I may consider T posts in buckets with concrete. AR500 is a pretty standard matl. It is abrasion resistant steel with a brinell hardness of 500. DONT even think about drilling it.

I like the two set ups below. They get mounted on T posts. Also the second hanger is nice because you can change targets in seconds. Make certain that the mounting holes in your targets is 5/8" or a little bigger if you use the two mounts show. Both bought on evil-bay. Be aware that the T posts are cheap steel and you will eat them up with low bullets. Even my .22 LR ruins them.

You may consider a bucket with a tube in it surrounded with concrete that a T-post can slip into.
Then 4 foot T-posts that can insert into the tube.
Topped with the second hanger.
With 3/8" or 1/2" AR500 targets

That sounds like it would last a lifetime and be portable.

With my electronic ear protection, I can still hear the target hits at 200 yards with my .22 LR.
Just high and right of center, between the two bushes you can just make out my 200 yard target.

If you know how, you can zoom up on the photo with your ctrl key and your center mouse wheel.

Shawn

 

[vinconco]

Hang Fast has the best sound and reaction.

 

[LawnMM]

Look up a company called the Last Stand. It's rubberized hangars and stand brackets you slide rebar into. They're self healing and if you manage to break one he'll replace it.

Easy to set up, take down, and transport.

 

[502Chevelle]

Beststeeltargets.com has the Last Stand mounts. They work really good. The are used by several ranges in NC that host PRS matches, and they have made really nice trophies for matches that used to be held at Woodies. These guys make a quality target and stand package, you just get your own rebar. I have used these, and I also have T post hangers. The sucky thing about T posts, is once you drive them deep enough to hold steel that is being shot, they can be very hard to get back out of the ground. Maybe Dirt is different other places, but in central NC, I’ve tried to pull T posts up with a tractor, and the front wheels come up before the post does. If you have a range that you will use regularly, and the post won’t be in the way, drive them deep, and forget about them. I have both, and I prefer the rebar mounts.

 

[pmclaine]

I like Hang Fast Targets.

T post is cheap enough.

You could set T post up all over your acreage and switch target locations and shooting platforms to vary your experience.

Hang Fast often has discounts to Hide Members or mailing list subscribers.

Expenditures from $25 to $150 every now and than would soon have you with a great variety of sizes and shapes to challenge your skills.

 

[Steel head]

Here a question I have.
what is necessary for target material for the improved 338’s and 375’s at 2000+
1/4 reg steel enough?

 

[striped1]

I have a trailer full of MGM Targets. Great stuff.

 

[Steel head]

1500ish ft pounds so 3/8’s should be fine.
thanks.

 

[Charger442]

im setting up a range at my ranch from 400 yards out to 1,000+. Using the approx 1 MOA target width at each distance, i have shootsteel and also JCsteel targets.

i use this bracket in the link for a T-Post mount. and if it was a wide square target with two holes, i used a piece of flat bar and made an adapter from one hole to 2 hole mounting.

Amazon.com

here's my target and distance list. I call it the "Firing Field"

1000 yards = 10" square
950 yrds= 10" square
900 yrds= 45% IPSC (approx 8" wide)
800 yrds = 8" square
700 yrds= 7" square
600 yrds= 6" square
500 yrds = 5" round

KYL series of steel targets @ 400 yards

10" square
8" round
5" round
4" square
4" round
2" wide x 3" high rectangle

 

[Jackomason]

A couple other thoughts. If you'd rather hang your targets then keep an eye on the local fire department or water disterict. The fire guys test their hoses often and ones that dont hold pressure or are deemed unsafe get trashed but they make great straps and take a bullet well.

I sawzall/hacksaw my T posts down so the target sits closer to the ground. There's not a who lot of grass where I shoot so this works well. It doesnt leave you guessing if you impacted high or low and also protects the T post.

 

[onetopgun]

MGM is all you need to know.

 

[Fig]

I know there are a lot of different thoughts on the matter and disagreements about what's best, but here's my $.02.

I only buy water-cut targets, and mine look like new after thousands of impacts; new, as in NO DAMMAGE. It doesn't matter how close you get they don't get hurt if you only use match bullets.

My mobile target system uses 2X4s to hang the targets, and I use steel conduit instead of black pipe (which is ten times heavier). For the legs. I use AR500 target brackets that look like these:

Amazon.com : High Caliber 2x4 Target Hanging Hook Assembly Stand - with Pipe Legs : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : High Caliber 2x4 Target Hanging Hook Assembly Stand - with Pipe Legs : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

I just use steel bolts and chains to hang the targets. Everything is cheap and easily replaceable if it gets shot up. I've tried to go with more bulletproof stuff in the past, and it just gets shot up and costs more. 2X4s and conduit are cheap, and I rarely shoot the chains or hangers.

You just slip them on the ends of the 2X4 and then stick the conduit legs on them. I like to use a full IPSC at long range, so I have different lengths of conduit 8', 10', and 12' to get the target completely above any vegetation or in an otherwise easy to see position.

my gong rack is the same thing with a string of different sized gongs (I think from 2"-12") that hangs by the same system.

I like the full IPSC because it's so versatile from painting a target on it or head shots for close range to just shooting the whole thing at long range.

If I'm only gong to mess with one target I always bring the full IPSC. It also gives you some wiggle if you're shooting in terrain/conditions where it's hard to spot your misses.

 

[vinconco]

The sucky thing about T posts, is once you drive them deep enough to hold steel that is being shot, they can be very hard to get back out of the ground. Maybe Dirt is different other places, but in central NC, I’ve tried to pull T posts up with a tractor, and the front wheels come up before the post does. If you have a range that you will use regularly, and the post won’t be in the way, drive them deep, and forget about them. I have both, and I prefer the rebar mounts.

We've been using T Posts for several years now and have pulled them many times in our mountain rocky shale soil. The trick is to NOT pound them to China to start with if you plan on removing them. Pound them to half way up the bottom fin and they will hold the target and still pull out when needed.
I started out with the Last Stand but my range is on hill all 4 ways so I was constantly setting the damn things back up or the chains would all bunch up at the lower side. Too much trouble when a T Post is cheaper and easier to use.... (provided you don't pound them in too far)

 

[Diver160651]

Our matches use AR500 both DIY, JC, Hang Fast and some of the cheap hangers suggested in this thread (crap BTW). DIY AR500, plasma cut can crack at the bolt hole, but after who knows how many crazy number rounds in a couple of match seasons.

MY 2 cents:

• T-Posts by far are the most compact and offer the strongest support for the $$ (about $5 at most farm supply yards). You can plant T-posts and just leave them they are so cheap having preset targets in multiple locations
• JC T post hangers are strong but can get funky if left in the elements season after season - but they don't need a bolt so they are amongst the most robust
• Hang Fast are visually reactive and ring much loader with the bigger targets. They also protect the near range smaller targets with the angled surface so you can effectively use 1/4" AR WAY closer. They are my favorite as a shooter, but they do reduce the effective size of your plate very slightly as the have a downward angle and can have a slight twist in them. They do use a bolt.
• Exposed BOLTS and chains are alway the weak link on any system~
• Don't get all Macho and set your range with plates too small for the distance. You will learn way more with a 2MOA plate than you will with a 1MOA plate. You learn how plates react and see the frag patterns better. You'll also work better with the wind (Out West here, it is seldom a perfect windless day) and be able to better see the effect of mirage shifts.

$400 is a tiny budget for steel. Here is my 1 cent, as will not be able to afford a lot of steel:
Go T-posts: buy extras for moving the plates around quickly even during the same range session. We do this in the high dessert setting up our temp ranges and when shooting ELR. - (+1 to all that recommended them)
Hangers from JC for your small plates. For your large plate, use the Hang Fast on a 1 hole target. We can hang a full sized 1/4 AR IPSIC and you can clearly hear the load ring with a slow 6br 1K away.

FYI Plow blades are dangerous as can be, do not use them.

We have the PRS Pro Sharp Shooter In March, SW Regional Qualifiers, Monthly club and my Favorite, UKD Team in November (1 day great spin up & already 1/2 full) Hope to see some of you guys out here!

 

[Fig]

I don't disagree with those comments (or a bunch of others) for fixed, but if he really wants it to be mobile pounding anything into the ground becomes a hassle (IMO). It's a lot easier not to have to mess with that at all and to have a system that you just erect and shoot. If it is going to be fixed and can stay out then definitely T-posts.

Then again, if there are just a few places he moves them to and the T-posts can stay out that may be best.

I don't own enough property close to my house, so everything I have is made to be set up and broken down quickly. The targets, barricade, everything is completely mobile and breaks down. I have left the barricade at my gun club in the past, but now I take it home too.

 

[vinconco]

• Exposed BOLTS and chains are alway the weak link on any system~

We just did some testing with bolts and found that standard (NON grade) bolts are prone to breaking off the head because of the tensile stress effect of the bullet impacting the steel target plate. High Tensile GRADE 8 bolts resist these forces and will not shear the bolt head.

Of course a high velocity hit directly on the bolt head can cause failure even with GRADE BOLTS but 99% of the failures of bolted targets are caused by break forces on the bolt head.

Grade 8 carriage bolts are practically impossible to find locally at hardware stores. Hang Fast Targets keeps a good supply of GRADE 8 bolts in stock.

Here is a pic of a bolt that lasted about 20 rounds of 7.62 x 39 @ 25 yards on our "close range rifle target" set on an sharp angle.
We thought we had hit the bolt and shot it through but I found the bolt head on the ground. I had cameras on the target at the time so upon review we could see the hit and the bolt failure. We were testing longer bolts and did not have a GRADE 8 in that length and used a standard bolt instead.

 

[Sendit6.5]

Thanks for all the replies, y’all!! Way more response than I ever imagined and I’ve got a ton to look at and consider. I sure appreciate it! Wish I could reply to each post but hopefully this thanks will suffice!

Not disagreeing with you or against your idea of moving the targets, but why would you want to shoot in one area today and then setup elsewhere tomorrow to shoot elsewhere?

I just remembered my plate is AR400 actually and not AR500. It's held up to my 6.5CM from 200 yards out to 1000. It is 3/8 of an inch thick.

I plan to buy a 75% ISPC 1/4 thick for shooting with 223 from 300 out. I also plan to use it for shooting with my 6.5CM from 700 and out. My 6.5 is launching 140 grain bullets at 2720FPS.

I don't know why you want to look for AR500 in SA, maybe you already know of a few places. I've found lots of places in CC to have AR500 due to refineries all around. As a result, many fabrication shops, steel and metal work business, etc have lots and lots of steel to choose from. You can find it cheap.

I've gotten pretty bored of shooting a 12x12 square place anywhere inside 600 yards so I want to buy some smaller ones. So long as wind is minimal, I can stack rounds @500 yards in 5 inches with ease.

I would suggest to have a big plate to find where you're at (how off you may be) and then a small one to challenge yourself after you've figured out drop, wind, mirage, etc.

Good luck!

I want to have multiple ranges so that I can improve my real world abilities all around. I shoot for a living. Well, part of it. I’m a year-round full time guide/outfitter and wildlife manager for a large ranch I manage. On the side I do predator control for several ranches and I participate in lots of predator hunting contests. In addition, I like to hunt myself... all over the place. So, getting to know the nuances (how the wind likes to move, thermals, etc) of one particular range doesn’t translate into what I do. I guess my response would be, “Who WOULDN’T want to have access to as many different ranges as they could?” If you’re a competitor you’re going to be shooting very different ranges and environmental from match to match. Having different ranges with different situations prepares you far better than just shooting one range at your known distances. I have the ability to set up ranges shooting uphill, downhill, flat, across valleys, etc. I’ve been doing this a long time but I’ve just been using homemade paper targets using cardboard boxes and spray paint. Just tired of driving to and from targets to check hits. It does give me very accurate information but it eats up a lot of time. So, I’m finally going to switch to steel.
I think most guys shoot at one range because that’s all they have access to or can afford - not because it’s the ideal scenario. But I’m open minded, if someone has an explanation of why shooting one range makes you a better shooter in ANY real world application.

I mentioned going into San Antonio because I live 25 miles from a grocery store and aside from a small oilfield pipe dealer, the closest big metal places are in San Antonio. I figured I might find some place that carries AR500 that would cut some plates for me where I didn’t have to also pay for shipping or have that cost built in

Hope this answers your questions?

A couple other thoughts. If you'd rather hang your targets then keep an eye on the local fire department or water disterict. The fire guys test their hoses often and ones that dont hold pressure or are deemed unsafe get trashed but they make great straps and take a bullet well.

I sawzall/hacksaw my T posts down so the target sits closer to the ground. There's not a who lot of grass where I shoot so this works well. It doesnt leave you guessing if you impacted high or low and also protects the T post.

That’s a great suggestion! Thanks! There’s a rural volunteer fire station not too far away. I know some of the guys and I’ll ask them about an old fire hose. T-posts are a good idea except that there are lots of areas of the ranch where driving one is difficult, if not impossible. But, where I can, that’s a good suggestion. I’ve got a T-post puller that’d help get them out, when I need to.

 

[Rynomar]

I have been using 3/4" x 5' EMT for the legs and cross beam with 1/2" pipe hardware to connect it all. It is a pretty inexpensive setup that is easy to transport and has been very durable. I have also found that old fire hose or old tow straps work well for hanging the plates.

 

[pmclaine]

Beststeeltargets.com has the Last Stand mounts. They work really good. The are used by several ranges in NC that host PRS matches, and they have made really nice trophies for matches that used to be held at Woodies. These guys make a quality target and stand package, you just get your own rebar. I have used these, and I also have T post hangers. The sucky thing about T posts, is once you drive them deep enough to hold steel that is being shot, they can be very hard to get back out of the ground. Maybe Dirt is different other places, but in central NC, I’ve tried to pull T posts up with a tractor, and the front wheels come up before the post does. If you have a range that you will use regularly, and the post won’t be in the way, drive them deep, and forget about them. I have both, and I prefer the rebar mounts.

If your tractor is......

Redirect Notice

 

[Steel head]

ShootingTargets7 is a vet owned business. Good prices and free shipping on orders over $99.00.

https://shootingtargets7.com/pages/steel-targets

I’ve orders lot of plates from them. Fast service...

I use some of their stuff.

 

[Sheldon N]

what is necessary for target material for the improved 338’s and 375’s at 2000+
1/4 reg steel enough?

I wouldn't use regular steel. It doesn't ring very well, just makes a dull thunk sound.

1/4" AR500 is fine, I believe that's what was used at the Nightforce ELR match. It's pretty tough stuff too. I had a 1/4" 66% IPSC at 575 yards at our spot and somebody thought it would be cool to shoot it with their 50 cal. Dished it a bit but it's still going strong a year later.

You should find a big boulder at your desired distance, use a rotohammer to drive in some bolts, then hang targets with firehose. That's what we've done and they hold up really well.

 

[Sig Marine]

Like many above, I've used the various systems and find "T" posts to be the most convenient; no legs/crossbars, no brackets, no bolts and straps. That said and as you mention, some ground is not conducive to driving posts and for those places, I use a JC Steel rebar target stand.

The information "TONO" gave for AR 500 steel from ShootingTargets regarding energy at the target and target thickness is a decent guideline; although it may be a tad bid conservative but I'm sure the information errors on the side of caution and protecting your target investment. For .308 calibers and smaller (non-magnum) I do not shoot less than 300 yards and have had no issues using 3/8" plate from 300 yards out to 700 yards and 1/4" beyond. For magnum calibers, I do not shoot less than 800 yards and have had no issues using 1/2" plates from 800 yards to 1200 yards, 3/8" plates 1200 yards to 1700 yards and 1/4" past 1700 yards. To clarify, by "NO ISSUES" I mean no pitting or dishing of the targets. My yardages and information for magnum calibers is based on a .300 Norma standard .338 Lapua shooting jacketed bullets up to 300 grains. I've not tested solids so the energy at the target and relative target thickness without damage is unknown.

As for targets, most were purchased from Jake at JC Steel but there are several guys who are members here on the "Hide" that have good targets. Let me also add, that at longer distances, the Magneto Speed Target Hit Indicators are worth many times their cost (approx $150). I also wholeheartedly agree with "Diver160651" regarding target size. If you want to challenge yourself, put two targets out; a larger one at 2 MOA and then another that's small at 1.5 MOA - 1 MOA. Get rounds on the big boy and then challenge yourself by shooting the small one; especially if there's wind.

Hope this helps, enjoy the journey...

 

[Diver160651]

Here a question I have.
what is necessary for target material for the improved 338’s and 375’s at 2000+
1/4 reg steel enough?

1/4" is enough.. here is 2400y with AR500 1/4" and only a 24" plate.. 338 hardly moves it.. 375 more, but no dents (375 not on video)

Still have this plate and it has taken many years of hits..


Lot more videos even closer in the DIY target cam video in my signature or in the DIY section.

 

[stello1001]

I want to have multiple ranges so that I can improve my real world abilities all around. I shoot for a living. Well, part of it. I’m a year-round full time guide/outfitter and wildlife manager for a large ranch I manage. On the side I do predator control for several ranches and I participate in lots of predator hunting contests. In addition, I like to hunt myself... all over the place. So, getting to know the nuances (how the wind likes to move, thermals, etc) of one particular range doesn’t translate into what I do. I guess my response would be, “Who WOULDN’T want to have access to as many different ranges as they could?” If you’re a competitor you’re going to be shooting very different ranges and environmental from match to match. Having different ranges with different situations prepares you far better than just shooting one range at your known distances. I have the ability to set up ranges shooting uphill, downhill, flat, across valleys, etc. I’ve been doing this a long time but I’ve just been using homemade paper targets using cardboard boxes and spray paint. Just tired of driving to and from targets to check hits. It does give me very accurate information but it eats up a lot of time. So, I’m finally going to switch to steel.
I think most guys shoot at one range because that’s all they have access to or can afford - not because it’s the ideal scenario. But I’m open minded, if someone has an explanation of why shooting one range makes you a better shooter in ANY real world application.

I mentioned going into San Antonio because I live 25 miles from a grocery store and aside from a small oilfield pipe dealer, the closest big metal places are in San Antonio. I figured I might find some place that carries AR500 that would cut some plates for me where I didn’t have to also pay for shipping or have that cost built in

Hope this answers your questions?

Yup, this definitely answers my questions and it makes sense. If you are shooting with a slope going up, it's going to be different than shooting with a slope going down and so on. Sounds like you have that figured out.

And judging by what you do, it seems like we should be buddies haha. I too spend a lot of time out in the field hunting and what not.

I may convince a friend of mine to let me set up a range on his property for us to use on. It seems there isn't any good ones around that stretch further than 100 yards. Let us know how your project turns out.

 

[Sendit6.5]

Yup, this definitely answers my questions and it makes sense. If you are shooting with a slope going up, it's going to be different than shooting with a slope going down and so on. Sounds like you have that figured out.

And judging by what you do, it seems like we should be buddies haha. I too spend a lot of time out in the field hunting and what not.

I may convince a friend of mine to let me set up a range on his property for us to use on. It seems there isn't any good ones around that stretch further than 100 yards. Let us know how your project turns out.

Well, if you ever make it down to South Texas, let me know. I'll definitely post some pix when I get something setup.

 

[Way_ky]

We just use t post to hang our steel

 

[Zorrosdens]

Great workup here, loved all this info?