New annealing tool/invention

[Hoodlum]

For some of you guys with a lathe, this is a neat little gadget I made last night.... They are heat sinks to help keep the case heads cool during annealing... They work better than expected... I actually had to shorten them a bit because it was taking forever for the cases (especially the 308) to heat up hot enough to anneal.... The 308 sink gets a little warm on the fingers after 10 or so cases, but cools back down in about 30 seconds... The 223 one stays cool enough that you can anneal all day long...
Hoodlum

 

[roggom]

Nice,

Is it possible to make a neck to protect the body, or is that not necessary? That would be a great alternative to the old socket deal. Socket gets to hot sometimes.

Maybe one heatsink bottom i/e .473-.475 and various body protectors for 22-250, 308/243, 7x57, 30-06 that screw in. Same for 223 type and mag face.

Your on to something there, I'd be down for a set if you ever go into production.

 

[mdmp5]

Nice,

Is it possible to make a neck to protect the body, or is that not necessary? That would be a great alternative to the old socket deal. Socket gets to hot sometimes.

Maybe one heatsink bottom i/e .473-.475 and various body protectors for 22-250, 308/243, 7x57, 30-06 that screw in. Same for 223 type and mag face.

Your on to something there, I'd be down for a set if you ever go into production.

Protect the body of the case? If that is what you mean, the body is protected well past the point where you want annealing.

 

[roggom]

Yes, i guess if the flame is concentrated on the correct area. I checked some various designs online and looks like the protection varies as well. I am just used to seeing a collar that extends up close to the shoulder area.

Still a cool design and will be much better than a socket.

 

[mdmp5]

As long as the direct flame is on the neck/shoulder junction, everything should be fine. The top of the body will be annealed, which is good, but a distinct line will be demarcated about a third of the way down. Even without the heat sink, it is very difficult to anneal the entire case unless you are holding it in the flame for a much longer time than you really meant to. I would say at least 5-10 seconds longer than the required time.

 

[Hoodlum]

The first one I made came up to the point where I typically anneal too, which was just below the shoulder/body junction... I held the case in the flame for approximately 30 seconds, and the neck never even began to glow, and the sink became pretty much too hot to hold... I am sure that eventually, it would have gotten hot enough, but not sure how long it would take, and if the sink would have spread the heat to areas where I didn't want it to be... I made another, which is the one you see, and the cases annealed in about 10 seconds....

 

[easternncnative]

Here's one I put together from my local Lowe's plumbing section.

 

[Hoodlum]

Here's one I put together from my local Lowe's plumbing section.

Yea, but mine looks cooler!!!!

 

[arnie19]

What ever happed to the induction type of annealing .I never hear of it any more .

 

[mdmp5]

What ever happed to the induction type of annealing .I never hear of it any more .

There was one guy that was pioneering this method and was talking about improving it, but I don't think he moved forward with the project. There are limited resources out there to do it. I only know of the mini ductor unit, which isn't cheap.

 

[roggom]

I actually tried construct a Royer, and built a power board and a timing board, but the induction coil/power tranny/cooling would take the project way over budget. There are a few online prototypes on youtube, but that creator scrapped his ideas as well. He had the induction coil manufacture build the boards, but it burned up when tested his prototype.

If anyone wants to pursue the Royer heater, these guys will can supply parts. 1800 watt Royer Induction Heater

I am an avid DIY'r but its hard to justify a large budget when a bottle of green and a chinese socket cost less than a sammich.


OP if you decide to crank some jigs out, put me down for one of the 308 sized ones.

 

[Rattler56]

Yea, but mine looks cooler!!!!

Agreed.

 

[Mad_Charlie]

Mine is a bit different, but along that line, maybe I will learn how to post pics and show it off.

 

[easternncnative]

Yea, but mine looks cooler!!!!

Yes it does!

 

[Hoodlum]

Nice,

Is it possible to make a neck to protect the body, or is that not necessary? That would be a great alternative to the old socket deal. Socket gets to hot sometimes.

Maybe one heatsink bottom i/e .473-.475 and various body protectors for 22-250, 308/243, 7x57, 30-06 that screw in. Same for 223 type and mag face.

Your on to something there, I'd be down for a set if you ever go into production.

Hey roggom, I sent you a pm...

 

[Rattler56]

Hoodlum you bastard, look what you started.
Just ran some 22-250 and it worked great, thanks for the idea Hoodlum.

 

[roggom]

Here is a short review of Hoodlums heat sink.

Normally I am a socket drill annealer, the only issue with this method it the socket is not the exact size needed and the case would wobble a little. Also the socket would get way to hot, as it retained all the heat of the flame.

Hoodlums heat sink is cut to .485, so a 308 drops in freely as the sink is turning and can easily be pulled out (either dropped or with small needle nose)


I do not normally use tempilaq, but for testing I went with 475. This is the temp used by one case manufacture to indicate that the annealing is not too hot for the case body. I used the same method I have for years. To heat the case mouth in a darkened room until it just changes to a scarlet red.

As you can see in the pics the heat sink protected the body and some of it melted just below the shoulder, but was due to radiant heat. I only used the Tempilaq on five cases as this was enough for me to validate the heat transfer and protection.

I did 50 cases back to back and the heatsink was no hotter than a rifle barrel after 5 or 6 shots. I could touch it without searing skin, but it was warm enough not to leave my hand on it for too long (around 2 seconds)

All in all, I have to say this design was perfect for the type of annealing I do. It cut my annealing time down as I did not fight with the socket to center the case, allowing me to drop them in and grab them out very quickly.

I have been using the same annealing method for years and have successfully gotten over 25 loads out of RP brass on a 44.8/178 amax load (annealing every 5th load)

All in all I have to say this heat sink is good to go!

 

[Rattler56]

I love mine, the case has no wobble and it works really well as stated by roggom.

 

[Gnzrme]

For some of you guys with a lathe, this is a neat little gadget I made last night.... They are heat sinks to help keep the case heads cool during annealing... They work better than expected... I actually had to shorten them a bit because it was taking forever for the cases (especially the 308) to heat up hot enough to anneal.... The 308 sink gets a little warm on the fingers after 10 or so cases, but cools back down in about 30 seconds... The 223 one stays cool enough that you can anneal all day long...
HoodlumView attachment 34012

Details for production....?

 

[1J04]

Here's a vid of induction annealing you may find interesting.

Induction Annealing Brass Video - YouTube

Would it not be better/faster to set up two propane torches to get the brass heated up quick ? Something along this line, but of course still with your same idea ?

brass annealing machine.mpg - YouTube

 

[Hoodlum]

Details for production....?

As in wanting some or wanting specs to make your own?

 

[missed]

I'm working on one too powered by an Arduino board. I'm going flame annealing for now and going to build the induction equipment this simmer. Hopefully I will have it done in a few weeks.

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[missed]

Oh yeah if my math is correct and I can get the coil design right a 1kw induction annealer will do a 308 case in about a second.

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