New FVSR accuracy issue?

[Djstorm100]

I have not ever had this happen. The build is as followed

Savage FVSR
EWG 0MOA base
Burris Extreme Rings
Mueller APT scope



Been shooting CCI Mini-Mags 36 grains round nose.

I leveled the rifle as best as I could and then leveled the scope and confirmed using gauge method, now I know the scope is not high quality by no means. But it does the job for what I'm wanting to do.

This are the groups...question is why is in world is it shotgunning so bad? I think alot of it has to do with the stock not being able to keep the stock off the barrel when using bi-pod. Tomorrow I'll have more data.

I tq the rail to 20 in/lbs. Pushed the ring base forward as I tighten them/used blue loc-tie and to 65 in/lbs plus 10 degrees (to be above the min spec of 65in/lbs)

First day shot it not really trying to hold groups but get the barrel tighter on the bullet. 60 rounds I would say, then today another 100.

I do have some federal 525 blue box I'll try tomorrow.


Also, if I'm a inch low or high at 100 yards and my scope is 1/4" per click. That means 1 moa = 4 clicks= 1 inch 8 clicks = 2 inches? At 50 yards one click would be .125 inch per click.

100 yards






50 yards

 

[djdilliodon]

Have you tried a good selection of quality ammo yet? The first step in getting the best accuracy out of a rifle is finding what it shoots best first. Then you can fine tune from there.

 

[Djstorm100]

Have you tried a good selection of quality ammo yet? The first step in getting the best accuracy out of a rifle is finding what it shoots best first. Then you can fine tune from there.

CCI Mini-mags and Federal 525 Round .22 Long Rifle Hp Ammo - 694844, .22 Ammo at Sportsman's Guide

Is all I have, I have always though CCI was/is a good brand.

 

[djdilliodon]

Get yourself some sk/wolf, federal automatch, eley edge, or any other high quality ammo. Really this will depend on what your willing to spend on a box of ammo. For the money the sk/wolf is tough to beat. I have had 3 savage rimfires myself and have worked on 5 others for friends. They benefit greatly from pillar bedding. The wood is so thin near the action screws that if you go to tight you can hear the wood crush. Another problem I have found with them sometimes is the crowns can be poor. Before diving into any of that though I'd get some better ammo first.

 

[BoilerUP]

New FVSR accuracy issue?

That stock is a piece of shit, and a bipod makes it worse. Definitely try bags, they will help.

Also, try some CCI SV; my FVSR shoots MiniMag well but really likes CCI SV (as far as non-match ammo goes).

Also, a Boyd Tacticool is money VERY well spent.

 

[djdilliodon]

That stock is a piece of shit, and a bipod makes it worse. Definitely try bags, they will help.

Also, try some CCI SV; my FVSR shoots MiniMag well but really likes CCI SV.

Also, a Boyd Tacticool is money VERY well spent.

Lmao I just noticed it was a Tupperware stock! Yep a boyds will be a solid investment and pillar bed it! If you can take exact measurements for the pillars I'd be willing to cut them for u and send them to you for $5 shipped to help ya out!

 

[justin amateur]

Tupperware stock plus hi-v rounds on spring loaded bipod = trajectory spread

Laminate stock (pillared and bedded) plus subsonic rounds on solid rest = greatly improved accuracy

Barrel pad, located at 1/3 the barrel length forward of the receiver, will tighten groups up a bit more.

I don't subscribe to the theory of free floating a barrel, without first testing a barrel support shim.

 

[Djstorm100]

That stock is a piece of shit, and a bipod makes it worse. Definitely try bags, they will help.

Also, try some CCI SV; my FVSR shoots MiniMag well but really likes CCI SV (as far as non-match ammo goes).

Also, a Boyd Tacticool is money VERY well spent.

I've been trying to find some wolf match/SK match. No CCI SV either. Seems like I need to invest when this "panic" is claim down more. Screw new firearms...ammo and parts is what I'll be stocking up on next go around.

Lmao I just noticed it was a Tupperware stock! Yep a boyds will be a solid investment and pillar bed it! If you can take exact measurements for the pillars I'd be willing to cut them for u and send them to you for $5 shipped to help ya out!

Just order the Body and Dip Metals (trigger guard and bottom Metal), dip Pod lock for the bipod and cheek riser for in case purpose. I've been reading about how to pillar bed and not sure if I fully understand how to do it yet. Or which one to do first, bedding or pillar. I know some guys do them both at the same time. I might try and bed/pillar the tubberware stock as a "practice stock". I would hate to ruin a good stock.

Tupperware stock plus hi-v rounds on spring loaded bipod = trajectory spread

Laminate stock (pillared and bedded) plus subsonic rounds on solid rest = greatly improved accuracy

Barrel pad, located at 1/3 the barrel length forward of the receiver, will tighten groups up a bit more.

I don't subscribe to the theory of free floating a barrel, without first testing a barrel support shim.

What is this barrel pad?

How is the bipod making it worst other than causing the barrel to touch the stock? When I read the comment it makes me think that the bipod is causing the issue due to how the springs are use to operate it. I do know they can hop but that is due to not being pre-loading the bipod. Which I do.

 

[djdilliodon]

I've been trying to find some wolf match/SK match. No CCI SV either. Seems like I need to invest when this "panic" is claim down more. Screw new firearms...ammo and parts is what I'll be stocking up on next go around.



Just order the Body and Dip Metals (trigger guard and bottom Metal), dip Pod lock for the bipod and cheek riser for in case purpose. I've been reading about how to pillar bed and not sure if I fully understand how to do it yet. Or which one to do first, bedding or pillar. I know some guys do them both at the same time. I might try and bed/pillar the tubberware stock as a "practice stock". I would hate to ruin a good stock.



What is this barrel pad?

How is the bipod making it worst other than causing the barrel to touch the stock? When I read the comment it makes me think that the bipod is causing the issue due to how the springs are use to operate it. I do know they can hop but that is due to not being pre-loading the bipod. Which I do.

If you act fast you can score some wolf here! Bruno Shooters Supply: Wolf Rimfire Ammo .22 LR Match Target ---IN STOCK 1-15-14---

Savages aren't very hard to pillar bed but can be difficult to glass bed. If you never done either, i don't recommend you glass bed a savage rimfire for your first time. I'm sure you can tackle pillar bedding one though. The savage Tupperware stocks flex a lot in the forend which cause an accuracy disaster. If I where you I'd spend the $100 on a boyds tacticool and be done!

 

[justin amateur]

Bipods are not all created equal. Production differences between 2 of the same brand
as they come off the assembly line can result in one that is stable and works as intended
and another, that even with downforce applied, can shift position due to recoil and mechanical slop.

Barrel support pad is a shim located between the barrel and stock which cuts down on stock flex
and dampens barrel hamonics. This results in more consistent trajectories as the barrel starts
and finishes in the same place each time the trigger is pulled. Testing is the only way to verify
if the pad will provide improved accuracy on your rifle.

 

[Djstorm100]

If you act fast you can score some wolf here! Bruno Shooters Supply: Wolf Rimfire Ammo .22 LR Match Target ---IN STOCK 1-15-14---

Savages aren't very hard to pillar bed but can be difficult to glass bed. If you never done either, i don't recommend you glass bed a savage rimfire for your first time. I'm sure you can tackle pillar bedding one though. The savage Tupperware stocks flex a lot in the forend which cause an accuracy disaster. If I where you I'd spend the $100 on a boyds tacticool and be done!

That's the cheapest I've seen it...Thanks! just order 15 boxes (hope it's 50 rounds)

I don't have a gig or vice to hold the stock in to my drill press. To be honest I trust my hand and eye more than that cheap press (farther in laws). The purpose of it I think is to make "connection" between the bottom metal and the action not touch the stock. Part of the bottom metal and trigger guard are screwed in to the stock but the action is lifted .002 (just using this number as a example, I just know the pillar need to be lightly longer than the gap between the action and where the cut out is for the bottom metal on the stock) up higher. But then bedding the action would be counter productive and it would fill in the small void the pillar made? I need pictures lol.
What makes bedding so "tricky"?

Also can someone recommend a good bad I can get locally or one I could make? Airsoft bb's and a sock?

What would be a good rest to invest in? Lead sled?

Bipods are not all created equal. Production differences between 2 of the same brand
as they come off the assembly line can result in one that is stable and works as intended
and another, that even with downforce applied, can shift position due to recoil and mechanical slop.

Barrel support pad is a shim located between the barrel and stock which cuts down on stock flex
and dampens barrel hamonics. This results in more consistent trajectories as the barrel starts
and finishes in the same place each time the trigger is pulled. Testing is the only way to verify
if the pad will provide improved accuracy on your rifle.

 

[djdilliodon]

That's the cheapest I've seen it...Thanks! just order 15 boxes (hope it's 50 rounds)

I don't have a gig or vice to hold the stock in to my drill press. To be honest I trust my hand and eye more than that cheap press (farther in laws). The purpose of it I think is to make "connection" between the bottom metal and the action not touch the stock. Part of the bottom metal and trigger guard are screwed in to the stock but the action is lifted .002 (just using this number as a example, I just know the pillar need to be lightly longer than the gap between the action and where the cut out is for the bottom metal on the stock) up higher. But then bedding the action would be counter productive and it would fill in the small void the pillar made? I need pictures lol.
What makes bedding so "tricky"?

Also can someone recommend a good bad I can get locally or one I could make? Airsoft bb's and a sock?

What would be a good rest to invest in? Lead sled?

You can get a drill press vise for around $20. As long as the press doesn't have alot of run out it will be fine. A hand drill can be used but it's highly recommended you use a piloted counterbore so it doesn't walk on you when you try to drill the holes bigger. The pillars will make contact with the lugs and level with the bottom of the stock where the bottom metal sits. This will put all the pressure on the pillars and not the stock. What makes bedding a savage tricky is the lugs the action screws go into. If your not careful you can easily cause a mechanical lock. Here is a stock that is pillar and glass bedded for a cz 455. I gotta find the pics of some savages I've done.

 

[usmcchet9296]

try different ammo
.22 ammo is not all the same even if its match ammo

 

[JoeMartin]

You should see a marked difference in the better ammo you picked up from Bruno. Clean your barrel before testing this new ammo. Where as stock work and/or even a new stock, may or will need tweaking, the SKS or Wolf you have coming should provide you with a better picture of what your rifle is capable of. You can use the shimming technique as a stepping stone to the next level of accuracy as you decide which route you want to go in tweaking the stock, or getting a new stock and tweaking it also. Good luck and enjoy your new rifle.

 

[Djstorm100]

You should see a marked difference in the better ammo you picked up from Bruno. Clean your barrel before testing this new ammo. Where as stock work and/or even a new stock, may or will need tweaking, the SKS or Wolf you have coming should provide you with a better picture of what your rifle is capable of. You can use the shimming technique as a stepping stone to the next level of accuracy as you decide which route you want to go in tweaking the stock, or getting a new stock and tweaking it also. Good luck and enjoy your new rifle.

how clean is clean? Running a few patches through it or cleaning until the patch comes out white? I try not to stab the barrel at all, unless accurcy starts to fall.

 

[JoeMartin]

What I do is run a bore snake, then take a q-tip and clean any residue from around the breech of the chamber so as there is no wax or fouling build up from previous ammo as the new ammo is introduced to the chamber.

 

[terrible tim]

I think we're over-thinking things here with cleaning & ammo. My FV-SR from this weekend shot the following groups, in sequence, at 50 yards.
Wolf Match Extra, 5 shot strings: 1 - 5/8" 2 - 7/8" 3 - 9/16" (cold bore, dirty from last session, hundreds of rounds, no cleaning at all for 1st string)
CCI-SV, no cleaning after the Wolf: 1 - 13/16" 2 - 3/4" 3 - 3/8" 4 - 13/16"
Wolf Match Extra, no cleaning after CCI: 1 - 9/16"
SK Std+ no cleaning : 1 - 7/8" 2 - 3/4" 3 - 1/2"

I'm just saying that the first couple of shots are good for putting out a good bore when you switch ammo types. There just isn't that much difference in this stuff, at least as far as I can see or prove with paper & trigger time with my rifle. If anyone else has some real-time results, I'd be interested in seeing them posted, and hearing the effect on groups the various ammo types of lube exhibit, when changing things around during a shooting session.

http://imageshack.com/a/img585/6117/7qij.jpg

 

[hahco]

I think we're over-thinking things here with cleaning & ammo. My FV-SR from this weekend shot the following groups, in sequence, at 50 yards.
Wolf Match Extra, 5 shot strings: 1 - 5/8" 2 - 7/8" 3 - 9/16" (cold bore, dirty from last session, hundreds of rounds, no cleaning at all for 1st string)
CCI-SV, no cleaning after the Wolf: 1 - 13/16" 2 - 3/4" 3 - 3/8" 4 - 13/16"
Wolf Match Extra, no cleaning after CCI: 1 - 9/16"
SK Std+ no cleaning : 1 - 7/8" 2 - 3/4" 3 - 1/2"

I'm just saying that the first couple of shots are good for putting out a good bore when you switch ammo types. There just isn't that much difference in this stuff, at least as far as I can see or prove with paper & trigger time with my rifle. If anyone else has some real-time results, I'd be interested in seeing them posted, and hearing the effect on groups the various ammo types of lube exhibit, when changing things around during a shooting session.

http://imageshack.com/a/img585/6117/7qij.jpg

sometimes the ammo is the limiting factor, sometimes the gun is. an anschutz or a lilja-barreled rifle can take advantage of the most expensive match ammo. a savage ... maybe not. my savage shoots CCI SV and Wolf MT or ME about the same.

I think people expect too much from a savage rimfire ... they are what they are. I consider the groups above to be good, and fairly representative of what you should expect from a savage. that's about what I get from mine.

However, all that being said, the OP should be able to do better. terrible tim's examples, and my experience, are that a savage can consistently (over and over again) do sub 1" groups at 50 yds. take the advice on here, try subsonic ammo, try sandbags instead of the bipod, try a better stock with bedding. these changes should get you into 5 shots into sub 1" groups at 50 yds territory.

 

[Djstorm100]

New FVSR accuracy issue?

My boyd came in today. How tight is the stock suppose to be on the action ? I made sure the lugs were not making contact and the barrel pins via painting then with wet white out and they aren't. In going to open up the barrel channel though. It's all I had on hand but to take the action out of the stock I had to grab the scope and wiggle it out. It doesn't just fall out like the factory stock. Which I assume is a good thing


Using Tapatalk

 

[terrible tim]

How tight it's supposed to be can be affected by something as small as the thickness of the finish applied to the inletting. It just depends on where the action is actually hitting the stock. That's why a lot of people have chosen to put in pillars & re-bed the action on these stocks, it's just another variable to remove when shooting for accuracy. Try setting it up with this stock before doing anything major, just to see how it affects groups & how it shoots. Remember, this is a process which takes time and a fair amount of tinkering to get things right. Enjoy the process as a learning curve & you'll be fine. Expectations are your enemy here, as they will lead you down the path to frustration. Take notes on what you change, how much and what the effect on groups is so you will be able to go back and replicate the good changes and rule out the bad ones.

Remember, the barrel channel and its alignment is a function of the inletting of the action. That's why I chose to work on the action part of the stock, to correct the slight off-center condition of the barrel channel when it arrived. On mine, the barrel was touching the right side at the front of the stock, so I had to scrape the finish & inletting at the back/right side of the action to bring the barrel back to center. White-out works fine, but I used lip stick because it's easier to remove without any nasty solvents, use what you have. An "acid brush" (the small metal handle kind, short bristles, like used in applying plumbing paste for soldering) will help smear a light coating of lip stick on the action where you need it, then you can see where things are hitting and work on them gradually. You don't usually need to shave more than a couple of hundredths off in a few spots, to let things settle into place correctly. Work slowly & take your time. Work one area at a time until the action drops in place and comes out without too much effort. It shouldn't be loose and just fall out, but for now just get the barrel channel open enough to float a dollar bill in there without resistance & you're good. You're trying to support the action and let the barrel float. The screws will "tune" the action for harmonic vibrations.

 

[Djstorm100]

Well I have got the following parts installed.
Dip bottom metal
Dip Trigger guard
Dip 25moa scope base
Boyd stock

There is a void between the Boyd stock and the action pillars so I cut down some plastic spacers to take up the space.

Now I was shooting in 23 degree weather, we got 4 inches of snow last night and completely shut down the state it seemed like. If you live in the south you know what I'm talking about! lol

I need to make a target stand that is alot more stable. I was using some IDPA stands I've been using for pistol.
As you can see it moves..easily... (click picture)


The numbers on the targets represents the action screw In/Lbs. I'm thinking 25/30 in/lbs really tighten up the group.

 

[Djstorm100]

I did forget to add this one at 20in/lbs

 

[Djstorm100]

Have a update. Weather was great for once 64 degrees 6 mph wings. 33 humidity. Sk plus ammo with action screws at 14 inch pounds. The 2nd picture was first. 10 rounds shot, you can tell they were trying to group but I had cleaned the barrel. Picture one was next group. Then I shot at two other targets. The 3rd and 4th are the same group but really happy about this grouping. I'm having a slight issue with parallax with this cheap scope ( mueller apt). The last string I didn't break contact with the rifle like I did with the other group. Shot the last group ( picture 3/4) off bipod and rear bag.






Using tapatalk

 

[terrible tim]

Really nicely done! Looks like you're getting it dialed in now. Keep looking at different types of ammo, as you never can tell what it might like. Sort of fun working the bugs out, isn't it?

 

[Djstorm100]

Really nicely done! Looks like you're getting it dialed in now. Keep looking at different types of ammo, as you never can tell what it might like. Sort of fun working the bugs out, isn't it?

Yes sir it is. Just curious what it will do at 100 yards now...didn't have to test it out but I'm happy happy happy lol