Gunsmithing New Manners PRS2 Platinum Shell - Barrel Channel Off?

[6point5CM]

Hide Team,

I recieved an awesome certificate from the Rock Lake match last April, and used it on a new PRS 2 with Mini Chassis and MPA Barricade Rail with the Platinum Layup. I just recieved the stock, and tightened everything up, and noticed the barrel is not centered with the barrel channel. Action is a GAP Tempest, and barrel is currently a Bartlein Sendero contour. The inlet is for a GAP #6 contour, so I have plenty of room now. I'm concerned when I throw on the GAP #6 barrel if I'll have enough on the one side. I'm also concerned there may be something causing pressure pulling it to one side. There were quire a few burrs I had to clean up with the Mini Chassis, (action screw holes, and the two side chassis holes). I don't feel any burrs currently after filing those 3 holes burrs away. Front bolt is torqued to 65 in/lbs and rear is torqued to 48 in/lbs. I have taken it in and out many times trying to get it to center, but as soon as it locks up, it pulls the barrel to one side again. I thought about sanding one side down, but the thicker of the two sides is actually the side that has the larger gap, so if I sand anything down, it's going to be removing material from the already thinner side (material on each side is not equal after measuring). I love the feel and grip of this stock, but my OCD isn't going to let me enjoy it until I get this fixed up! This barreled action was in a KMW Sentinel stock prior to this with zero issues. Welcome any suggestions before I try reaching out to Manners (I hate bugging them about a small issue like this when it was a certificate from a match).

 

[broke_again]

Mine is the same way. And I have the Rem Varmint channel with a Rem. Varmint contour barrel so it's even tighter. It hasn't affected accuracy at all

 

[6point5CM]

I assumed it wouldn't effect accuracy...just my OCD. Did you have to trim your AW or AICS mags? My AW mags won't seat. Looks like I'll have to take away the top of the feed lips to seat, or trim some material off the magazine latch.

Thanks for your info.

EDIT: magazine fit issue fixed. filed a tiny bit off the magazine where the latch catches and holds the mag.

 

[Edds]

That may be a standard feature for Manners. I have two Manners stocks and the inletting was poor on both of them. I was able to correct them with lots of sandpaper and epoxy. If mine had been Platinum layups with a mini chassis, I would have probably returned them.

 

[6point5CM]

That may be a standard feature for Manners. I have two Manners stocks and the inletting was poor on both of them. I was able to correct them with lots of sandpaper and epoxy. If mine had been Platinum layups with a mini chassis, I would have probably returned them.

I have another Manners EH1 (specs in sig) that is flawless, but it was bedded by my smith. This is my first Manners Mini Chassis. The IMB Chassis in my KMW Sentinel is a thing of beauty. The Manners Mini Chassis was definitely not as nice fit and finish wise as the KMW Sentinel IMB, that's for sure. Even if I didn't have to clean up 3 holes with metal burrs folded over into the Chassis.

 

[tmanners]

Hide Team,

I recieved an awesome certificate from the Rock Lake match last April, and used it on a new PRS 2 with Mini Chassis and MPA Barricade Rail with the Platinum Layup. I just recieved the stock, and tightened everything up, and noticed the barrel is not centered with the barrel channel. Action is a GAP Tempest, and barrel is currently a Bartlein Sendero contour. The inlet is for a GAP #6 contour, so I have plenty of room now. I'm concerned when I throw on the GAP #6 barrel if I'll have enough on the one side. I'm also concerned there may be something causing pressure pulling it to one side. There were quire a few burrs I had to clean up with the Mini Chassis, (action screw holes, and the two side chassis holes). I don't feel any burrs currently after filing those 4 holes burrs away. Front bolt is torqued to 65 in/lbs and rear is torqued to 48 in/lbs. I have taken it in and out many times trying to get it to center, but as soon as it locks up, it pulls the barrel to one side again. I thought about sanding one side down, but the thicker of the two sides is actually the side that has the larger gap, so if I sand anything down, it's going to be removing material from the already thinner side (material on each side is not equal after measuring). I love the feel and grip of this stock, but my OCD isn't going to let me enjoy it until I get this fixed up! This barreled action was in a KMW Sentinel stock prior to this with zero issues. Welcome any suggestions before I try reaching out to Manners (I hate bugging them about a small issue like this when it was a certificate from a match).

Hi 6point5cm. Shoot me a pm with your contact information I would like to get ahold of you and get you taken care of. There should not have been any burs on the mini chassis. The side attachment screws are drilled thru the sides which will leave a small hole infront of the trigger on the inside. The action screw holes are machined then mill spec hard coated. Those should not have any burs at all, I want to make sure that we have not been missing a issue so we can get it corrected.

I noticed that it looks like there was another issue of burrs in this thread. that is unacceptable, if you guys would shoot me a pm with your contact info.


Thank you very much,

 

[Sonic Crack]

Its not unusual for an inlet to be off or a mini chassis to be out of line. You can double check that the action has clearance from the stock. Sometimes paint/bondo can overhang the inlet. Also check that your trigger is not contacting the MC. I know Manners will take care of you if your not happy.

 

[6point5CM]

Thanks for all the info. I took some measurements and will get in touch with Manners to make sure there will be no future fitment issues. I appreciate all the help!



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[Sixfivesavage]

I've had more crooked manners stocks than straight stocks, and I've had probably 10 of them over the years with mini chassis. I learned after the first two or three of them that you're better off just going with a MTU M24 inlet so you know a palma barrel won't have issues. Seems to be the price of admission, no idea why.

 

[LRI]

Hide Team,

I recieved an awesome certificate from the Rock Lake match last April, and used it on a new PRS 2 with Mini Chassis and MPA Barricade Rail with the Platinum Layup. I just recieved the stock, and tightened everything up, and noticed the barrel is not centered with the barrel channel. Action is a GAP Tempest, and barrel is currently a Bartlein Sendero contour. The inlet is for a GAP #6 contour, so I have plenty of room now. I'm concerned when I throw on the GAP #6 barrel if I'll have enough on the one side. I'm also concerned there may be something causing pressure pulling it to one side. There were quire a few burrs I had to clean up with the Mini Chassis, (action screw holes, and the two side chassis holes). I don't feel any burrs currently after filing those 4 holes burrs away. Front bolt is torqued to 65 in/lbs and rear is torqued to 48 in/lbs. I have taken it in and out many times trying to get it to center, but as soon as it locks up, it pulls the barrel to one side again. I thought about sanding one side down, but the thicker of the two sides is actually the side that has the larger gap, so if I sand anything down, it's going to be removing material from the already thinner side (material on each side is not equal after measuring). I love the feel and grip of this stock, but my OCD isn't going to let me enjoy it until I get this fixed up! This barreled action was in a KMW Sentinel stock prior to this with zero issues. Welcome any suggestions before I try reaching out to Manners (I hate bugging them about a small issue like this when it was a certificate from a match).

The channel is what it is, my comments on the "burrs" you found in the holes. first an explanation of things.


Take an M700 type action and look at it once. -closely. It's a pipe with an arrowhead shaped back end right? Now, look at the hole positions. Up front it's pretty straight forward. The back end is a little more interesting if we pay attention.

Bedding blocks, chassis, whatever, as made by most, are little more than a "V" shaped feature intended to capture an action along the sides and naturally align it parallel. -Self centering right? This works and has for over a decade now.

The issue however is the tang of the action. It narrows on a 700. The chassis flanks that contact the receiver lose their purchase because the tang narrows. This means the rear guard screw area hangs in space. The easy way to view this is take a board and put a brick in the back portion. Now stand on the board. Front lifts up right? Same thing applies with the action in the stock. It's why the fasteners are tightened up to different torque values. The rear one is basically along for the ride. Go too heavy and the receiver will distort right where the tang ceases to have tangent contact on the chassis flanks.

This was mini chassis 101 issue for years. Guys would bed them to solve it. I used to take them and machine a contoured brass pillar that threaded into the rear hole. Lots of ways to skin the cats here.

A solution was made a few years back where a thin ring like feature remained around the guard screws. The idea is as the action is snugged down this ring will distort slightly. Because AL isn't all that "springy" the material stays in that shape after you snug it up the first time. From there it behaves much like a pillar. It supports the tang portion of the receiver.

I only explain this in the hopes of conveying how you may have (through good intentions) shot yourself in the foot if you mistook the distorted rings as burrs and removed them. If you did its not the end of the world. The rifle will still likely shoot fine and if it should act a little fussy, just bed the tang and be done with it.

As for the barrel channel, it's not too far off, but it is off. Solving this is as complicated as a sanding block and a careful eye. Stocks are rarely drop ins. They almost always take a little work. One needs to remember the facts here. You have over 50 different "custom" action companies making "M700 clones" these days. You have 10 or so "custom" barrel companies making barrels. Now go through the rest of the parts and name all the companies.

NONE of these guys talk to one another. If I call 99.9% of these companies and request a CAD file model of a particular part, most will tell me to buzz off. They either don't have it or refuse to share it. Now compound this by knowing that most stock companies don't have and extensive CAD/CAM infrastructure to manage how the assemblies interact. This stuff is often done by hand worked molds that attempt to hit the broadest region possible. Molds are not cheap to make so the tools need to blanket as many applications as possible. It's just a fact of manufacturing.

It's worth knowing this so that one enters this game with a clear set of expectations. Unfortunately these things are not legos that just snap together. Fitting is part of the game.

 

[6point5CM]

The channel is what it is, my comments on the "burrs" you found in the holes. first an explanation of things.


Take an M700 type action and look at it once. -closely. It's a pipe with an arrowhead shaped back end right? Now, look at the hole positions. Up front it's pretty straight forward. The back end is a little more interesting if we pay attention.

Bedding blocks, chassis, whatever, as made by most, are little more than a "V" shaped feature intended to capture an action along the sides and naturally align it parallel. -Self centering right? This works and has for over a decade now.

The issue however is the tang of the action. It narrows on a 700. The chassis flanks that contact the receiver lose their purchase because the tang narrows. This means the rear guard screw area hangs in space. The easy way to view this is take a board and put a brick in the back portion. Now stand on the board. Front lifts up right? Same thing applies with the action in the stock. It's why the fasteners are tightened up to different torque values. The rear one is basically along for the ride. Go too heavy and the receiver will distort right where the tang ceases to have tangent contact on the chassis flanks.

This was mini chassis 101 issue for years. Guys would bed them to solve it. I used to take them and machine a contoured brass pillar that threaded into the rear hole. Lots of ways to skin the cats here.

A solution was made a few years back where a thin ring like feature remained around the guard screws. The idea is as the action is snugged down this ring will distort slightly. Because AL isn't all that "springy" the material stays in that shape after you snug it up the first time. From there it behaves much like a pillar. It supports the tang portion of the receiver.

I only explain this in the hopes of conveying how you may have (through good intentions) shot yourself in the foot if you mistook the distorted rings as burrs and removed them. If you did its not the end of the world. The rifle will still likely shoot fine and if it should act a little fussy, just bed the tang and be done with it.

As for the barrel channel, it's not too far off, but it is off. Solving this is as complicated as a sanding block and a careful eye. Stocks are rarely drop ins. They almost always take a little work. One needs to remember the facts here. You have over 50 different "custom" action companies making "M700 clones" these days. You have 10 or so "custom" barrel companies making barrels. Now go through the rest of the parts and name all the companies.

NONE of these guys talk to one another. If I call 99.9% of these companies and request a CAD file model of a particular part, most will tell me to buzz off. They either don't have it or refuse to share it. Now compound this by knowing that most stock companies don't have and extensive CAD/CAM infrastructure to manage how the assemblies interact. This stuff is often done by hand worked molds that attempt to hit the broadest region possible. Molds are not cheap to make so the tools need to blanket as many applications as possible. It's just a fact of manufacturing.

It's worth knowing this so that one enters this game with a clear set of expectations. Unfortunately these things are not legos that just snap together. Fitting is part of the game.

Thanks for the detailed response Chad. I appreciate the thought and time from a guy as busy as you. I was able to get out and shoot the rifle, and as I suspected it shoots as it always did. With regards the burrs, it was the recoil lug action screw hole, and one or both of the side chassis retention screw holes. In hindsight, rear tang was pretty good. I'll have to look and see if I took photo's. While I don't recall the small ring you mention, the burrs were clearly non intentinal. It looked likely from the drilling process, prior to the tapping for threads. There were no small rings, but large metal wings and bent/twisted distortions coming off all sides of the hole. Think the back side of a metal sign after shooting...I'm sure a machinist has a much more technical description! A metal brush on a Dremel and a trigger file was able to get them down for the most part. I'll probably take it back apart and double check the recoil lug burrs and make sure there are no shiny spots or any residual flattened burrs or shavings after shooting and tightening it all up. In actuality, the only one that probably has any chance of affecting anything is the recoil lug area burrs. Thanks again for the education.

 

[tmanners]

Thanks for all the info. I took some measurements and will get in touch with Manners to make sure there will be no future fitment issues. I appreciate all the help!
Hi 6point, I shot you a PM last week, when you get time please forward you contact information and i will give you a buzz and you figured out. If you prefer here is my cell number, 816-210-810 or my shop contact information below. It almost sounds like the hole that was drilled for the MPA rail had burs in it, this hole is in the front of the lug at the very bottom. There should not be any burs at all in the mini chassis, they are made by Badger, then we send them out to get a mil spec hard coat finish. if there is any burs on that chassis before it has been coated that is a big problem that needs to be addressed asap, we have gone thru our current inventory and are not seeing this. The rear hole of the mini chassis will have a crush pad, this pad is not round, it is actually square, it is designed the way it is to give maximum support on tang when torqued down. This pad does not get removed. If is a burr form the where the MPA rail has been attached after the mini chassis was installed it will be raw aluminum. If so that should have been dressed down before it shipped and that needs to be addressed asap also. Thank you very much,

 

[tmanners]

Hi 6point5, just replied to your PM. Thank you

 

[6point5CM]

Thanks for all the info. I took some measurements and will get in touch with Manners to make sure there will be no future fitment issues. I appreciate all the help!
Hi 6point, I shot you a PM last week, when you get time please forward you contact information and i will give you a buzz and you figured out. If you prefer here is my cell number, 816-210-810 or my shop contact information below. It almost sounds like the hole that was drilled for the MPA rail had burs in it, this hole is in the front of the lug at the very bottom. There should not be any burs at all in the mini chassis, they are made by Badger, then we send them out to get a mil spec hard coat finish. if there is any burs on that chassis before it has been coated that is a big problem that needs to be addressed asap, we have gone thru our current inventory and are not seeing this. The rear hole of the mini chassis will have a crush pad, this pad is not round, it is actually square, it is designed the way it is to give maximum support on tang when torqued down. This pad does not get removed. If is a burr form the where the MPA rail has been attached after the mini chassis was installed it will be raw aluminum. If so that should have been dressed down before it shipped and that needs to be addressed asap also. Thank you very much,

Thank you Tom. I'll call you soon.