Just trying to get input on both options, MPA has a pretty in depth process they recommend. I figured there had to be quite a few guys that said heck no I ain't doing that crap.
Thanks
Thanks
New MPA BA Rifle (Barrel breakin or NOT)
- Thread starter twointhedirt
- Start date
I'll be honest and say that I don't really know what I believe. Good barrels take some number or shots to achieve a stable muzzle velocity. By stable, I mean that the velocity usually increases through the first 50 to 150 shots.
I have fastidiously performed the age-old ritual of shoot and clean and shoot and clean and... And I have just gone out and shot them too. All of this in reference to premium barrels. Maybe I've become lazy but, these days I shoot about 15 rounds usually fire forming brass, clean the barrel and shoot 20 more, clean and finish fire forming the first batch of 50. My goal is to get 100 rounds down the barrel to start or, if it is a barrel/chamber I know, finish load development.
As you know there are a lot of opinions but, I am betting that as long as we don't do anything boneheaded that there is no wrong way or right way.
As a side note, a friend of mine had a chamber cut with my reamer. I gave him all of my load data and that rifle shot in the .3s from the very first round. It shoots even better now. Maybe that is what is meant by a zinger barrel! There was no break-in on this particular barrel.
Henryrifle
I have fastidiously performed the age-old ritual of shoot and clean and shoot and clean and... And I have just gone out and shot them too. All of this in reference to premium barrels. Maybe I've become lazy but, these days I shoot about 15 rounds usually fire forming brass, clean the barrel and shoot 20 more, clean and finish fire forming the first batch of 50. My goal is to get 100 rounds down the barrel to start or, if it is a barrel/chamber I know, finish load development.
As you know there are a lot of opinions but, I am betting that as long as we don't do anything boneheaded that there is no wrong way or right way.
As a side note, a friend of mine had a chamber cut with my reamer. I gave him all of my load data and that rifle shot in the .3s from the very first round. It shoots even better now. Maybe that is what is meant by a zinger barrel! There was no break-in on this particular barrel.
Henryrifle
Thanks Henryrifle
I have seen some similar results, bottom line I think you either get a barrel with none to very few micro burrs and some with a lot. And I really am on the fence whether it matters a whole lot, meaning some barrels shoot right outta the gate and others take some time to stabilize. My uneducated want to is to just shoot it and clean it every 10-20 and be patient on velocity and group size. So the real story is I am just trying to find someone that agrees LOL it makes me sleep better so thanks ZZZZZZ
I have seen some similar results, bottom line I think you either get a barrel with none to very few micro burrs and some with a lot. And I really am on the fence whether it matters a whole lot, meaning some barrels shoot right outta the gate and others take some time to stabilize. My uneducated want to is to just shoot it and clean it every 10-20 and be patient on velocity and group size. So the real story is I am just trying to find someone that agrees LOL it makes me sleep better so thanks ZZZZZZ
I do a 1-2-5-10 barrel break-in on all my precision rifles, and it's worked really well. 1-shot - Clean ... 2-shots - Clean ... etc. etc. etc.
After 10-shots - Clean ... it's good to go. I can't say how they would shoot if I "didn't" do this, but I can tell you I'm consistently hitting 1-mile shots with my MPA 300-WMBA (and multiple barrels in my Barrett MRAD) using this barrel break-in method. Investing an hour for break-in on a $4,000 rifle ... seems worth it to me. As always ... YMMV.
After 10-shots - Clean ... it's good to go. I can't say how they would shoot if I "didn't" do this, but I can tell you I'm consistently hitting 1-mile shots with my MPA 300-WMBA (and multiple barrels in my Barrett MRAD) using this barrel break-in method. Investing an hour for break-in on a $4,000 rifle ... seems worth it to me. As always ... YMMV.
Thanks Rusty, Can't argue with that as well, when you say clean are you using a solvent and soak time or just brushing and swabbing?
1. CLP Swab
2. Wait a couple of minutes.
3. Brush 10x
4. CLP swab
5. Dry swab a half-dozen times
After that, the bore is usually showing pretty clean. I don't buy into the whole "dry swap until perfectly clean" philosophy. It's not necessary, and I don't have the patience.
One thing I should have added. After the first "meaningful" post-break-in range visit (30-50 rounds through) ... do a really good cleaning with a quality copper remover ... I use M-Pro7. The reason I don't use copper remover during break-in is that you actually "want" to fill the micro-gaps during this process to smooth out the bore.
I've gotten great results from this ... so it's the process I've settled on.
Hope that helps.
Just a simple logic test:
There are many, many different procedures people claim to work. As well as people who don’t use any procedure at all. Not a single one of the methods or non methods don’t work.
So, what does that lead us to believe?
There are many, many different procedures people claim to work. As well as people who don’t use any procedure at all. Not a single one of the methods or non methods don’t work.
So, what does that lead us to believe?
My current 6.5 creed bartlein has 1200 rounds. It has exactly 1 patch down the bore. Before it was ever mounted on the action
Factory berger still shoots SD 6-8 and groups .3s
Factory berger still shoots SD 6-8 and groups .3s
Get it good and warm and then shut it down until it cools to temp. Do this twice and then start tuning.
Ohh wait, that's engine break in.
Do whatever you need to do that'll calm your fears.
Some people are religious about "barrel break in" and some just shoot. I believe in the just shoot the damn thing.
I think there's a good video posted by a famous Hide member about it. He's had several different account names so I am not sure which one it's under. Maybe under larry or gawddamnright or...
Ohh wait, that's engine break in.
Do whatever you need to do that'll calm your fears.
Some people are religious about "barrel break in" and some just shoot. I believe in the just shoot the damn thing.
I think there's a good video posted by a famous Hide member about it. He's had several different account names so I am not sure which one it's under. Maybe under larry or gawddamnright or...
The bore will be smooth and polished on one. Rough and tool marks etc on the other.
Yes, I have had the misfortune to have crap chamber reamer work on my 2 high end rifles. MPA and Precision. Odd that it took 800+ rounds to show on the brass. No question - reamer gouging on both. Now I look long and hard with a bore scope on any new chamber before brass comes anywhere near it.
I've done both the shoot and clean 1 shot x10 and swab before the first shot (even one Bartlein that I forgot to run the patch through) and I can't say that any of them have been any better or worse.
The only way you could get any empirical proof one way or the other is to get two identical barrels, and break in one, shoot the other and compare performance in 1k rounds. Who has the patience and discipline for this?
Thanks guys
I guess the general consensus is, if you get a barrel with micro burrs you can certainly shorten the time to smooth out the barrel by performing some type of break in procedure. That being said I would presume inspecting the barrel with a bore scope could possible give you some insight into whether it is needed or NOT,
At this point not sure there is a wrong answer
I guess the general consensus is, if you get a barrel with micro burrs you can certainly shorten the time to smooth out the barrel by performing some type of break in procedure. That being said I would presume inspecting the barrel with a bore scope could possible give you some insight into whether it is needed or NOT,
At this point not sure there is a wrong answer
Clean the chamber well. Sometimes reamers leave residue from cutting oil. Run an oiled patch down the bore and followed by a couple of dry patches. Shoot and have fun with your rifle. You worry to much.
MPA has a pretty simple break in and cleaning process. For a $3k plus gun why not just do it the way the builder recommends? That's what I will do with my MPA when it arrives.
MPA Process:
Barrel Break In and Cleaning Breaking in the barrel is a critical step to ensure a long and accurate to the barrel. However, if done incorrectly, you can ruin your barrel in a hurry. Proper barrel break-in procedures are often utilizedfor top accuracy and performance. More barrels are damaged by cleaning rods than by any amount of regular shooting a person may do. If not done correctly, one can do more harm than good. A. Bore guides- If you don’t have one, get one! Without a good bore guide you are just wasting your time trying to break-in a barrel or cleaning it for that matter. More rifle barrels are destroyed by cleaning without a bore guide than by shooting! There are many types and brands of bore guides available on the market and range in price from $5.00 to $50.00. The only one we recommend is the Boretech. They are the best insurance you can buy for that new barrel. B. Solvents - We recommend Boretech products, specifically the Eliminator or the Copper and Carbon solvent for copper and powder fouling and for cleaning/storing your rifle for the next match or season. C. Procedure for “Break-in” - Before firing that first shot, clean the barrel as if it had been shot by following these simple steps. Step 1. Insert bore guide into receiver and chamber. Step 2. Run one wet patch through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out. Step 3. Next run dry patches through repeatedly until the come out with little to no residue. Step 4. In some cases the barrel may require several wet patches followed by dry patches. Remember we are not looking to strip every bit of fouling out, just the excess. The actual barrel break in procedurecan be argues many ways. With the quality of machining in modern precision rifle barrels the old school recommendation to fire, clean, fire, clean, fire, clean… is simply not needed. We do however recommend cleaning more frequently during the first 100 to 200 rounds as the barrel settles in. This can be done every 10 or 20 rounds at first then lengthened to every 50 or more. D. Additional Barrel Break-in and Cleaning Tips - 1. Remember that everytime you clean the rifle you are setting that barrel back in an unusual state. It may take several rounds after that cleaning for complete accuracy to return.
MPA Process:
Barrel Break In and Cleaning Breaking in the barrel is a critical step to ensure a long and accurate to the barrel. However, if done incorrectly, you can ruin your barrel in a hurry. Proper barrel break-in procedures are often utilizedfor top accuracy and performance. More barrels are damaged by cleaning rods than by any amount of regular shooting a person may do. If not done correctly, one can do more harm than good. A. Bore guides- If you don’t have one, get one! Without a good bore guide you are just wasting your time trying to break-in a barrel or cleaning it for that matter. More rifle barrels are destroyed by cleaning without a bore guide than by shooting! There are many types and brands of bore guides available on the market and range in price from $5.00 to $50.00. The only one we recommend is the Boretech. They are the best insurance you can buy for that new barrel. B. Solvents - We recommend Boretech products, specifically the Eliminator or the Copper and Carbon solvent for copper and powder fouling and for cleaning/storing your rifle for the next match or season. C. Procedure for “Break-in” - Before firing that first shot, clean the barrel as if it had been shot by following these simple steps. Step 1. Insert bore guide into receiver and chamber. Step 2. Run one wet patch through the bore and let soak for approximately 30 seconds. Do not patch this out. Step 3. Next run dry patches through repeatedly until the come out with little to no residue. Step 4. In some cases the barrel may require several wet patches followed by dry patches. Remember we are not looking to strip every bit of fouling out, just the excess. The actual barrel break in procedurecan be argues many ways. With the quality of machining in modern precision rifle barrels the old school recommendation to fire, clean, fire, clean, fire, clean… is simply not needed. We do however recommend cleaning more frequently during the first 100 to 200 rounds as the barrel settles in. This can be done every 10 or 20 rounds at first then lengthened to every 50 or more. D. Additional Barrel Break-in and Cleaning Tips - 1. Remember that everytime you clean the rifle you are setting that barrel back in an unusual state. It may take several rounds after that cleaning for complete accuracy to return.
Last edited:
For my MPA-300WMBA (and all other precision rifles, I do the same thing with excellent results.
My MPA has been a tack-driver ever since. Also done this with four barrels for my Barrett MRAD, and several other precision rifles.
This works for me. YMMV
- 1 shot ... Clean at the range
- 2 shots ... Clean at the range
- 3 shots ... Clean at the range ... use this session to zero scope
- 5 shots ... Clean at the range ... use this session to confirm zero
- 10 shots ... Bring home for a full cleaning ... use this session to chronograph velocity (I use Labradar)
My MPA has been a tack-driver ever since. Also done this with four barrels for my Barrett MRAD, and several other precision rifles.
This works for me. YMMV
I just got my MPA 308 and did the following:
3 shot group and clean until no copper. Did this for 3 groups and noticed a big difference in the amount of copper after the third group. These groups were all about .75moa. Last three shot group was .2moa and almost no copper.
3 shot group and clean until no copper. Did this for 3 groups and noticed a big difference in the amount of copper after the third group. These groups were all about .75moa. Last three shot group was .2moa and almost no copper.
I see a lot of different methods all with good results. My method is to clean, shot clean lightly, repeat for first five shots. The fire shots and clean, then five more shots and clean. It may be working or it may just be a wonderful coincidence, but almost every rifle I have started out this way has been a shooter. The few that escaped this “break-in” were not shooters.
Then there was this one hunting rifle, that was, for me, quite expensive. Had the most expensive scope I have ever purchased, Broke the barrel in Very Carefully. Yet, nothing could be done to make it regularly meet its accuracy guarantee. yep, it did it once or twice, but that was it. I love the scope. It is presently sitting on my $550.00 Weatherby Vanguard, which I might add is a great shooter.
So, following the dumb story, here are my thoughts on the effectiveness of breaking in a barrel. We believe it works, so it does work. It works because we take the care of all matters regarding our shooting.
Then there was this one hunting rifle, that was, for me, quite expensive. Had the most expensive scope I have ever purchased, Broke the barrel in Very Carefully. Yet, nothing could be done to make it regularly meet its accuracy guarantee. yep, it did it once or twice, but that was it. I love the scope. It is presently sitting on my $550.00 Weatherby Vanguard, which I might add is a great shooter.
So, following the dumb story, here are my thoughts on the effectiveness of breaking in a barrel. We believe it works, so it does work. It works because we take the care of all matters regarding our shooting.
