Was gifted some reloading gear. Have put together a mid/long range 300 win mag from a bergara hmr. Looking to start reloading. But reloading supplies are hard to come buy. Was able to pick up some cci 250 primers, and some h 4831sc powder running 180 grain nosler partition. Will be reloading from once shot factory brass, have some Hornady and some federal. Bought the online manual from hodgdon found load data for the bullet and powder but no info on primers. Anyone used a similar set up or have any advice? Other than definitely start low on the scale and slowly scale up. Thanks in advance
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
New reloader 300 win
- Thread starter Stewy151
- Start date
Primers are good to go
Powder- I use that in my 284. Haven’t tried it in my 300 WM. I run H4350 in mine
Bullet for hunting- I run Hornady 200 gr ELDX in the 300 WM. I’ve had better luck with hornady shooting in the past than I’ve had with Nosler
Brass- Forget the federal. It’s thick and soft brass. If it’s all you have then fine but there’s much better out there. The hornady isn’t a lot better but it is an improvement. I run Nosler in mine with excellent results
When I started out I used rcbs dies. Worked good for what they were. Not sure what you have or plan to use. My setup is Lee collet/Redding seater. Redding body die when needed.
My rifle is a Savage 110 FCP HS model. She’s a shooter with the above setup. One of the most accurate factory guns I’ve seen
If your starting out reloading my best advice is read read read. Lots of great shooters on here and great advice. Watch some videos and if you can get help from people who have experience reloading. (That are good at it)
Powder- I use that in my 284. Haven’t tried it in my 300 WM. I run H4350 in mine
Bullet for hunting- I run Hornady 200 gr ELDX in the 300 WM. I’ve had better luck with hornady shooting in the past than I’ve had with Nosler
Brass- Forget the federal. It’s thick and soft brass. If it’s all you have then fine but there’s much better out there. The hornady isn’t a lot better but it is an improvement. I run Nosler in mine with excellent results
When I started out I used rcbs dies. Worked good for what they were. Not sure what you have or plan to use. My setup is Lee collet/Redding seater. Redding body die when needed.
My rifle is a Savage 110 FCP HS model. She’s a shooter with the above setup. One of the most accurate factory guns I’ve seen
If your starting out reloading my best advice is read read read. Lots of great shooters on here and great advice. Watch some videos and if you can get help from people who have experience reloading. (That are good at it)
I ran the precision hunter ammo with the 200 grain eld-x that's where the Hornady brass came from. It worked great killed several animals with it. But since I put a can on the rifle the eld-x was all over the place. I went to the federal gold medal with the nosler partition and I was able to get good groups with the can. So that's why I went that route on bullet
Also, hodgdon’s load data is free online.
https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center?rdc=true&type=54
https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-data-center?rdc=true&type=54
It’s not the bullet. It’s your barrel harmonics. Your barrel is like a tuning fork. Adding a suppressor changed the harmonics. The federal just preferred that combo over the hornady factory loads.
I shoot suppressed as well. I test a load to make sure the bullets stabilize in my rifle. Then I’ll test them suppressed.
The beauty of reloading is you can tune that ELDX to your exact setup. Just don’t jack your suppressor up in the process
Below is the load I currently run. I used a lower load with mine as I wasn’t looking to get the highest velocity.
63.0 grains of H4350
200 ELDX .030” off lands
2716 FPS Suppressed
Not suppressed
Same Load/Rifle with suppressor
Last edited:
RL-22 works really well in that round. Also standard large rifle primers give better consistency than magnum primers.
Once cases are fired in your chamber neck size them so you dont have to worry about head separations down the line. When they get too tight use the die that squeezes just above the belt. I'm at a loss as to who makes it right now.
Once cases are fired in your chamber neck size them so you dont have to worry about head separations down the line. When they get too tight use the die that squeezes just above the belt. I'm at a loss as to who makes it right now.
Yeah I found load data for the powder, have been doing a lot of reading on threads have seen people using this powder, these primers and these bullets but never together.
I've read a lot of reviews on the RL 22 the biggest issue I have come into (aside from availability) is a lot of reviews say it's not as temp stable where I will be hunting goats in the dessert in high temps and deer and elk in the high mountains in sometimes close to zero degrees. It didn't sound like the best option for my use
The hodgdon Extreme line is a good place to look. Aside from the already mentioned H1000 is a good option
I run the neck only lee collet in my 300 as noted above. It works for me.
But if you want absolute repeatability every time then get a Redding type S FL sizer and competition seater. Set the die to size the shoulder back .002” on the fired brass from your gun. This type uses bushings and allows you to control the neck tension.
I use the above in my 284 fclass rifle. Used it in my 338 LM and will use it in my 300 PRC.
I use the Frankfort Arsenal spray lube with the FL dies
No at the web of the case. Right above rhe bottom. The brass will stretch right above the belt and get progressively thinner until it ultimately separates.
Loaded my first 4 rounds last night. The first one I need to get a bullet puller and redo I seated .007 to deep.
Load data said 69-73 grains of h4831 sc I went with 70 grains.
Run the 180 grain partitions
And 250cci primers. Hopefully find out this weekend if I screwed anything up lol
Load data said 69-73 grains of h4831 sc I went with 70 grains.
Run the 180 grain partitions
And 250cci primers. Hopefully find out this weekend if I screwed anything up lol
Attachments
I downloaded the manual but for the 300 win it only shows a 180 grain speer and e tip bullet option I went of the e tip since I am also shooting a nosler started on the low end and hoping I don't have any problems with the difference between the e tip and partition
Yeah, the e-tip is a solid bullet. You are better off using data for the speer which is a jacketed lead core bullet. Brand means nothing, bullet construction and length is more relevant for extrapolating load data.
One said 67-72 grains one said 69-73 so I went 70 so I was in range with either the col is the only thing I'm worried about nosler shows for the partition 3.210 with a max saami of 3.340 the data on hodgdon shows 3.285 which is what I went with but the difference from the recommend on the partition makes me nervous
For a 180gr jsp like the nosler partition using h4831 your starting charge should be 70.0gr loaded to standard oal of 3.340”, max charge is 76.0gr which would be a compressed load. 70.0 would put you around 2675fps with a 26” barrel. Of course thats an approximation.
Awesome! Thank you. I will need to pull my bullets and reset oal. I appreciate it
Typically when I’m doing load development for a new cartridge/rifle I’ll load cartridges in 0.3gr increments from the minimum charge weight up to max. Shoot them one at a time and inspect each case for pressure signs and be observant of how recoil feels and how the cases extract, bolt lift, etc. Once you see pressure signs like flattened or cratered primers, sticky bolt lift, etc. you have found your rifle’s max load for pressure. The charge weight of the prior shot, being 0.3gr under that, is what I would consider your safe max. From there either adjust seating depth for accuracy or do a second ladder test in 0.1 or 0.2gr increments up and down from that charge.
I am just looking for a hunting load out to 500 yards I don't need anything to crazy for power. The main reason for reloading is to adjust loads to get my gun to like shooting a bullet that isn't a match bullet in decent groups. With the can I added it only really likes hpbt and similar match bullets from factory loads which aren't great for hunting
Once you’ve done that, you can load for example 5 round batches with seating depth variance to find a combination your rifle likes. I’ll set up a target with a few shoot n c’s on it, and shoot the different batches round robin for groups. So for example lets say 20 rounds loaded, 5 at 3.340, 5 at 3.338, 5 at 3.336, 5 at 3.334”. First target, one shot from the 3.340 loads. Second target, one from the 3.338”. Go all the way through the box so you have 4 5 shot groups, each group from a specific seating depth. Then you can compare group sizes and make a determination as to what seating depth grouped the best. Statistically one group isn’t necessarily indicative of an ideal load but it gets you in the right direction.
Then you can narrow it down further, a second test with 0.001” variance up or down to refine it further.
Then you can narrow it down further, a second test with 0.001” variance up or down to refine it further.
Reloaded to the specs you gave me. They look a lot better! I don't shoot anything to special this is my rig a stock bergara with a Zeiss conquest and a dead air can. But it's been really good to me on the hunts other than my back at like 13 poundsThe load I shoot out of my 300wm is a 210gr vld at 3.617”, they are single fed 0.003” off the lands, 2880fps. Until I run out or the barrel wears out anyway, then back to the drawing board.
Attachments
Book recommended OAL is fine to start. Just watch when you read others load data as to what they use for OAL. What I run in my 300WM at .030” off the lands might be the same measurement on your rifles chamber that puts you .020” in the lands. Which obviously can cause issues with pressure being the main concern
Similar threads
