new rifle help please

[hollowoutadime]

The 6.5 caliber Thunderbeast Ultra in 7" or 9" is the same quality as the S&B scope you bought, first rate. it will work on all smaller calibers like the .243 or 5.56. No you don't want to make a mistake, but I'm pretty sure that just about everybody here will second this choice. You'll get the brake mounted version and just buy a second brake ($125) for your other rifles (share the same suppressor)

 

[spife7980]

Is there one that I could use for the Tikka 6.5cm that I could also use on my .223/5.56 carbines, or would I need two different suppressors?

With a couple exceptions of low pressure cans made for only 300 blackout pistols you can run any can on a caliber smaller than it was designed for. I shoot 223 through my 30 cal sico omega all the time, its great. Event though youre only on a 6.5 I would get a 30 cal can just for future preparedness. The smaller cals through it may be a bit louder than a dedicated-for-caliber can but only by a few percentage points, its not a drastic difference by any measure and 3% difference isnt worth having to buy a new can in the future to match to your potential new 308 or 300wm.

Wait times are only about half a year now but every day you put it off is only an extra day of waiting.

The above recommendation for thunder beast is now the going standard for precision cans but if you are wanting to run mag dump after mag dump through it with your 5.56 carbine then maybe something made for abuse instead of precision would be a better choice. The TB ultras can take a mag dump, just not successive dumps per the last recommendations I saw from them.

And as I mentioned above, I like the brake attach as opposed to a direct thread, its just handier and more convenient and you wont be giving up accuracy by going brake instead of direct thread like the old cans use to.

If youre going to buy one I think its worth it to set up a trust, just leave it to only yourself until youve purchased your nfa items and then add on the additional trust members later. It saves all of the other people from having to get fingerprinted right away. I liked nfalawyers.com for mine, super simple.

Oh, and make sure they are legal in your state first.

 

[JustSomeOldGuy]

With a couple exceptions of low pressure cans made for only 300 blackout pistols you can run any can on a caliber smaller than it was designed for. I shoot 223 through my 30 cal sico omega all the time, its great. Event though youre only on a 6.5 I would get a 30 cal can just for future preparedness. The smaller cals through it may be a bit louder than a dedicated-for-caliber can but only by a few percentage points, its not a drastic difference by any measure and 3% difference isnt worth having to buy a new can in the future to match to your potential new 308 or 300wm.
.

Thanks a lot spife7980 and hollowoutadime, I really appreciate the help.

So I could get the Ultra 7 in .30 to use with the 6.5cm, but I could also use it on a Scar 17 and Scar 16, assuming I am shooting for accuracy not speed with the Scars?

 

[spife7980]

So I could get the Ultra 7 in .30 to use with the 6.5cm, but I could also use it on a Scar 17 and Scar 16, assuming I am shooting for accuracy not speed with the Scars?

Absolutely. Below are the minimum barrel length guidelines.
6".300 Blackout (subsonic)
8".300 Blackout (full power)
10"6.8 SPC, 7.62x39
11.5"223 Rem, 5.56, 6.5 Grendel
14.5".308 Win
16".260 REM, 6.5 Creedmoor
18"7mm RM, .300 WIN MAG
20"7mm RUM, .300 RUM, 6.5 SAUM
22".300 Norma Magnum, 28 Nosler, 7 STW
23"26 Nosler

 

[JustSomeOldGuy]

Just ordered my NFA trust, thanks for all the help.
Any suggestions on where to purchase a Thunderbeast Ultra? I don't know if there are preferred places to buy from, or it doesn't matter.
Should I go for the 9 or the 7?

 

[spife7980]

I went through capitol armory as they are right up the street from me, they handle all of the paperwork for you. Silencer shop is too. Whats interesting about silencer shop is they make you transfer it to another dealer to pick up.

That said there are a number of vendors on here that could help you out. Hanshon brothers, 317millhand are active in the suppressor forum spot, mile high shooting, lots of places. So I would say to see if there is someone local and convenient that you can go to then go that route provided they have some good reviews and feedback on the net. I wouldnt let bubbas brother from the next county over whos done two before himself handle it for you. If you are buying over the next form someone out of state or from far enough for you to not want to drive to then you can transfer from one dealer to your dealer, thats a form 3 transfer and adds maybe a month onto the wait. Sometimes deals can be worth that extra wait. Just go with someone you can trust.


As to the 9 or 7 I would go for the 9, I want it as quite as possible. That said... 9" is a long can, my omega is only 7" and its fine for me. If you want to be moving around with it a bunch the 7 might be a better choice. Both will be effective.

 

[fdkay]

Keep in mind, factory rifles with threaded barrels are going to have different thread pitch. 5/8x24 for 6mm and above, and 1/2x28 for .223 and below.
Easily remedied by having the barrel on the .223 cut back and rethreaded or a high quality machined adapter can be used

 

[spife7980]

Keep in mind, factory rifles with threaded barrels are going to have different thread pitch. 5/8x24 for 6mm and above, and 1/2x28 for .223 and below.
Easily remedied by having the barrel on the .223 cut back and rethreaded or a high quality machined adapter can be used

Good point I overlooked. I always just default to the muzzle breaks being adaptable but if he goes direct thread as opposed to brake attach he needs to know that.

 

[JustSomeOldGuy]

Thanks, I am pretty confused now.
Emailed Thunderbeast and they sent me some links about have gunsmithing done and barrel widths, which I don't understand. I was thinking I just needed the suppressor and some brakes, but I guess that is not how it works. So since I have no experience with suppressors and breaks, I guess it is back to the drawing board.

 

[spife7980]

Thanks, I am pretty confused now.
Emailed Thunderbeast and they sent me some links about have gunsmithing done and barrel widths, which I don't understand. I was thinking I just needed the suppressor and some brakes, but I guess that is not how it works. So since I have no experience with suppressors and breaks, I guess it is back to the drawing board.

The barrel needs to be a certain thickness to support the threads and to but the brake up against. Most heavier varmint and tactical style barrels are adequate. Thin pencil barrels wont support the can on the end. Your tac a1 will be fine.

 

[JustSomeOldGuy]

The barrel needs to be a certain thickness to support the threads and to but the brake up against. Most heavier varmint and tactical style barrels are adequate. Thin pencil barrels wont support the can on the end. Your tac a1 will be fine.

Thanks, I guess I am trying to see if what I buy for the Tac A1 in 6.5cm could also be used on the 223/556 Scar 16s and IWI x95. Those have pretty thin barrels.

 

[hollowoutadime]

it's not really complicated.
The brakes are typically threaded 1/2-28 (skinny barrels, many AR's or the larger 5/8-24 -( some metric threads available). The can will fit on any of these brakes (same manufacturer) as the outside diameter of the brakes are the same and fit the internal of the suppresor. So your cost is around $1000 for the suppressor (it comes with one brake, your choice of thread), a $200 stamp from the ATF, and $125 for each additional brake. You can move the brakes across barrels, but often they are Rocksett or Loctited to the barrel. While a direct thread can is cheaper, many people prefer brakes, it's a better system if you use your can across weapons. Also, if the threads are cut long (on a direct thread) there is carbon buildup on the extra threads, making suppressor removal sometimes a bit difficult.

 

[JustSomeOldGuy]

it's not really complicated.
The brakes are typically threaded 1/2-28 (skinny barrels, many AR's or the larger 5/8-24 -( some metric threads available). The can will fit on any of these brakes (same manufacturer) as the outside diameter of the brakes are the same and fit the internal of the suppresor. So your cost is around $1000 for the suppressor (it comes with one brake, your choice of thread), a $200 stamp from the ATF, and $125 for each additional brake. You can move the brakes across barrels, but often they are Rocksett or Loctited to the barrel. While a direct thread can is cheaper, many people prefer brakes, it's a better system if you use your can across weapons. Also, if the threads are cut long (on a direct thread) there is carbon buildup on the extra threads, making suppressor removal sometimes a bit difficult.

I was hoping it was a little easier but Thunder Beast says a .30 suppressor won’t work on a Scar 16, and it might work on a Scar 17 but you need an adapter from another company. They couldn’t tell me if it would work on an IWI x95 or not. So I can get an Ultra 6.5 9” or 7” for my Tac A1, but it might not work on anything else I have. Maybe I should look at a suppressor made for carbines in addition to the Thunder Beast for my Tac A1?

 

[spife7980]

Here a list of some that should work on a scar 17 though tits a bit dated from 2014
https://www.silencershop.com/blog/post/scar-17-muzzle-device-compatibility-list

The dead air cans are what would interest me most as I dont think theyve changed but I reserve the right to be wrong about that, I would assume that the silencerco asr stuff thats newer would as well but not so certain about that. Might be worth picking up the phone and calling some to find out.