Rifle Scopes New Trijicon Accupower 1-8x-28

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adam1122

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Aug 10, 2010
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#1
Here is my newest optic.....the newly released Trijicon 1-8x-28mm on a LWRC IC A5. Offset is about 2.5" which is just a bit high. For the senior guys, what do you think is the optimal zero for a 5.56 with a 16.1" 1/7 Rh twist barrel. It's a short stroke piston gun and will be shot suppression mainly. I know their are many many stickies on this but due to my sight offfset I wonder If I should keep it at 100 or push it out a bit.

thanks everyone!
 

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#3
You should always zero at 100 for magnified optics. Its far enough away where the bullet has stabilized completely, close enough to not have major POI shifts in extreme weather shifts, and minimal shifts in moderate winds 4-8 mph, and it's the gold standard for zeroring distance among the majority of shooters.
Unless you're shooting at a mile or further and need the room more elevation adjustments.
Red or green reticle? How do the turrets feel, solid or mushy?
Edit: the height over bore should be 2.9", 1.4" for bore to rail, and 1.5" for that ADM mount. And it really doesn't matter all that much.
 
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#4
I'll have to re-measure to get the sigjtnheightmover bore number. The guy who mounts my scopes thought it was 2.5" at the exit pupil if I'm not mistaken. The whole scope just feels solid just like you would expect from Trijicon. The turrets are very easy to grasp, they have very audible clicks (this model is in MOA with 1/4 MOA clicks). Very positive and not mushy at all. The zeroing experience is way easy than the US Optics EREk system which is what I am used to. All you need to do is pull up,on the turrets, unscrew the cap, re enter the scope to 0.....0. Push back down and put the cap back on. Even the glass is super high quality. Although a bit large, it is a 1-8-28 and I expect it to shoot like all Trijicons....close to perfect. I don't think there is another scope out there that even comes close for the price and quality. Oh, and the red illumination is perfection for me.
 
#5
You want to measure from center bore line to the center of the windage turret. But the measurements are everywhere online. As long as that ADM mount is 1.5" and the LWRC has a standard rail height, it will be 2.9". Did he say exit pupil or is that where measured from to center bore line? Because that's the distance from the ocular lense to your pupil needed for proper eye relief.
​​​​​​Im more than likely going to be selling my Leupy Mk6 for this. Have you taken it to the range yet?
​
 
#6
Headed this weekend...so far, I have only gawked at it and fondled it. Oh, I replaced the stock NIBX coated trigger with a Wilson Combat TTU-3G unit. Single stage. A bit less than a 3.5lb break. Unreal. I friggin love the feel of it...worth every penny.

oh, as for,the sight hight measurements I thin he measure,from the middle of the barrel to the middle of the front exit Lense. I could be wrong so I will remeasure. It's a rockstar scope.

 
#7
Correction. AR-15 flattop receivers have a bore height of 1.215", not 1.4". You can round to the nearest tenth though. Should be 2.7" unless the LWRC has a different height rail for the piston. I apologize for the incorrect measurements. Iron sights sit at 1.4" above the rail. That's where I was getting the number from.
 
#8
Thanks for the correction on the numbers.....given that sight height think I should just zero at 100? I'll run it through a JBM ballistic calculator to create a drop chart and then shoot to double check it.
 
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#9
It really doesn't matter where you zero as you can set your ballistic calculator at what ever range you zeroed. Most people pick 100 yards because it is easier to shoot groups at a 100 and be somewhat consistent versus 200 and beyond. Then there is always the environment that causes shifting due to wind. Having a consistent zero is what makes your drops correct at further distances. I also have this optic and also put it on a LWRC 16" SPR. I have not zeroed it yet but it will be at 100 yards for all the reasons I stated above.
 
#12
Slateman said:
Would love to see some pictures of the illumination in daytime/weapons light conditions.
Click to expand...

^^^ This, Please!
I learned, a long time ago, that one man's "daylight bright" is another man's "not so much..." Purchased one of the first PST 1-4s based on a trusted reviewers's claim that the reticle illumination was "daylight bright" only to find, upon taking delivery, that while the illumination was in fact visible in daylight it was far from "bright". Rather than having bright illumination that aided target acquisition, I found the muddy orange (to my eyes) illumination made it more difficult to pick up the reticle in daylight than leaving the illumination off. Live and learn...
 
#14
The scopes are all assembled here in the USA abut the components may come from Japan and the Czech Republic....taken right off the Trijicon website. This thing is built like a tank....only the VCOG with its rubber coating might possibly be a bit stronger. But for the the money and the 1-8 in FFP this is almost unbeatable. Glass is unbelievablely clear and the illumination is incredibly bright - 11 settings. It's a amazing piece of glass. Would think that it would make 1-6 scopes a bit dated.
 
#16
Here is the reticle at 7 power (magnification at 2x). Sorry for the poor quality but I took it with an iPad. I also own a USO 1.8-10 with a green powered reticle. The Trijicon is definitely brighter and just as clear is not more so in my opinion. The 1x is a true 1x....no magnification like some. I actually like it better than my SN-3. Trijicon really has a winner!!
 

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#18
adam1122 said:
Here is the reticle at 7 power (magnification at 2x). Sorry for the poor quality but I took it with an iPad. I also own a USO 1.8-10 with a green powered reticle. The Trijicon is definitely brighter and just as clear is not more so in my opinion. The 1x is a true 1x....no magnification like some. I actually like it better than my SN-3. Trijicon really has a winner!!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the photo! I'd love to see one outdoors in full sun at setting 10 or 11 if someone gets the chance.
 
#20
If you look at the Trjicon website, the 1-8 and 1-4 have the same max power battery life with the same type of battery. I'm guessing the illumination system is identical and most reviews I've seen of the 1-4 say it is not daylight bright. I've not looked through either one though.

plong, if you search for the thread on m4carbine.net, they post some pics someone took of it outdoors in sunlight at setting 11 on page 6. I'd post a link, but I know many forums frown on linking to other forums.
 
#21
probitron said:
If you look at the Trjicon website, the 1-8 and 1-4 have the same max power battery life with the same type of battery. I'm guessing the illumination system is identical and most reviews I've seen of the 1-4 say it is not daylight bright. I've not looked through either one though.

plong, if you search for the thread on m4carbine.net, they post some pics someone took of it outdoors in sunlight at setting 11 on page 6. I'd post a link, but I know many forums frown on linking to other forums.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads-up! Read through the entire thread. In a word: Disappointing... The guys over there are saying its only one-third the brightness of the Razor 1-6, bummer!
 
#22
SRPowah said:
So to those that own one, do you feel it is a good compromise between the 1-6x and 2-10x powered optics on the market in this price range? It really depends on how it handles on 1x
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I don't own this one (Trijicon 1-8) but I do own the USO 1-8. I've owned a few 1-6 in the past and I can definitely say that 1-8 seems to be a very useful zoom range. Much better than the 1-6. It also depends if you're more into the longer range. the USO and Trijicons I own (owned) at 1x was def. a true 1x which is very useful for the type of shooting I do.
 
#23
I've had my Trijicon for a few days now, haven't had the chance to shoot it yet, but here's a few thoughts. The red reticle is easy to pick up while standing in bright sunlight and looking into sunlit areas. It's NOT as bright as an Aimpoint (nor Razor, probably, but I have no experience with that scope). On setting 11, it's quite easy to pick out the red reticle at 1x-8x. Performance MAY have been better had they decided to go to a dual focal plane system like USO, but that would have added considerable cost, most likely. I will try to take some pictures, time and weather dependent.

The glass is as good if not better than I've experienced (not saying much...others' opinions count better here). I've used Vortex PST, Leupold Mk4 and VX-R Patrol, Bushell LRS, and also a Steiner P4Xi.

Regarding true 1x, this scope, and really no other 1-X I've seen, is truly 1x at the bottom end. Holding up a ruler to the objective, and guestimating, I'd say it's about 1.2-1.3x at 1x. It's closer to 1x than my Steiner P4Xi 1-4. It's not enough to be any kind of an issue with both eyes open in my opinion. To my eyes, I'm willing to pay that ever so slight price for the 8x on top, as well as a reticle that doesn't look like a slant (as my Aimpoint does).

Weight, it is a bit heavy, and I've got it in a Geissele mount, which isn't the sveltest of mounts. However, once I got used to it a bit, the heavy feeling went mostly away. It balances well with my relatively lightweight carbine that it's mounted on. I may end up switching this to a 16" gun and running the Steiner on my light 14.5", but I'm in no hurry to do so.

I'd highly recommend extended scope mounts, such as the Geissele Hyper Extended and the Larue SPR-E, as the eye relief on this scope feels quite generous.
 
#24
adam1122 said:
Here is my newest optic.....the newly released Trijicon 1-8x-28mm on a LWRC IC A5. Offset is about 2.5" which is just a bit high. For the senior guys, what do you think is the optimal zero for a 5.56 with a 16.1" 1/7 Rh twist barrel. It's a short stroke piston gun and will be shot suppression mainly. I know their are many many stickies on this but due to my sight offfset I wonder If I should keep it at 100 or push it out a bit.

thanks everyone!
Click to expand...

Regarding your initial question, as others have said, 100yds should be a good zero for shooting at distance. However, if you have any plans to really use it in a dual CQB/LR role that these types of optics were made for, after establishing your 100yd zero it's worthwhile to then shoot from 100 in to almost contact distances and get a feel for your holds as you get closer to the target. Even with an eotech zeroed at 100, which obviously sits a bit lower to the bore, there is a pretty substantial correction needed as you get closer to the target. IIIRC I needed to hold at about the top of the head on a silhouette inside of 10yds to hit the nose/mouth area.
 
#26
Hey guys, I just got the Trijicon 1-8x28 a few days ago. Haven't had a chance to mount it or shoot with it yet. I'm impressed with the built quality and I'm sure it's gonna be excellent out on the range.

However, I only have one issue... In a dark room the reticle is only visible on settings 3 (very dim) through 11 (quite bright). Settings 1 and 2 are virtually indistinguishable with no perceptible glow. I sat in the dark for 20 minutes to acclimate my eyes and had my wife look at it as well. Settings 1 and 2 look dead to both of us. I've tried 2 other new batteries as well as holding a magnifying glass up to the eyepiece to see if settings 1 or 2 were glowing but wife and I still couldn't detect anything.

Has anyone else noticed this on their Trijicon 1-8 or is this normal for this scope?
 
#27
airdog99 said:
Hey guys, I just got the Trijicon 1-8x28 a few days ago. Haven't had a chance to mount it or shoot with it yet. I'm impressed with the built quality and I'm sure it's gonna be excellent out on the range.

However, I only have one issue... In a dark room the reticle is only visible on settings 3 (very dim) through 11 (quite bright). Settings 1 and 2 are virtually indistinguishable with no perceptible glow. I sat in the dark for 20 minutes to acclimate my eyes and had my wife look at it as well. Settings 1 and 2 look dead to both of us. I've tried 2 other new batteries as well as holding a magnifying glass up to the eyepiece to see if settings 1 or 2 were glowing but wife and I still couldn't detect anything.

Has anyone else noticed this on their Trijicon 1-8 or is this normal for this scope?
Click to expand...


Thats because 1-2 are for viewing though a “night vision” device if you were using NV goggles you would see it. Your scope is functioning as designed there is nothing wrong with it.
 
#29
Palmetto-Pride said:
Thats because 1-2 are for viewing though a “night vision” device if you were using NV goggles you would see it. Your scope is functioning as designed there is nothing wrong with it.
Click to expand...

It's a ridiculous feature imo. It's incredibly hard to get NVGs/NODs behind an optic like that. It is only a virtue on paper, as a usable function it's impossible. Even an optic like an eotech set much further forward is extremely difficult to use under goggles.

They would have have been better served to make its brighter for daylight use.
 
#31
Pfiddy said:
It's a ridiculous feature imo. It's incredibly hard to get NVGs/NODs behind an optic like that. It is only a virtue on paper, as a usable function it's impossible. Even an optic like an eotech set much further forward is extremely difficult to use under goggles.

They would have have been better served to make its brighter for daylight use.
Click to expand...

I hear what your saying about trying to look through it with a NV device, but I do believe on the brightest setting it is plenty bright enough for daylight use.
 
#35
I have had mine for a little over 8 months, it's been on a 308, 6.5 grendel and my 450 bushmaster whitetail hunting AR. I have not had any issues with tracking and the zero has not moved after rezeroing for each upper swap. This past season I found illumination setting #2 perfect for walking out to the blind in a dark woods 45 minutes till sunrise w/o the use of nightvision. Rather nice to have a setting that low.
 
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