New User, New Rifle. Looking For Recommendations and/or Advice

bluebie

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Minuteman
Jan 9, 2019
63
9
Hello!

New to the forum, though I've been lurking for a couple of weeks, reading all I can. A little background: I'm in the market for a new rifle, that I'd like to use for PRS shooting, MAYBE some F-class, but no hunting. I think the longest distance at my local range is 600yd, but I'd like to be able to push it to 1000 if/when the opportunity presents itself. I'm new to the rifle world, but have been shooting pistols and shotguns for a while.

I plan to pick up a vortex razer HD Gen2 or NightForce ATAC-R in 5-25x56, from reading around the forums, these seem like two really great options.

Now, onto my question: Does anyone have any recommendations or opinions about a sub-$5000 rifle? I've been looking at the following in 6.5 creedmoor, and I think I'd really enjoy a chassis system rather than a traditional type stock:

RPR
Tikka T3
Bergara LRP-elite
AI AT

I know that's quite a range in price, but those are recommendations I see come up frequently here as far as factory setups.

A directly related question: Should I be entertaining a custom build? I have seen lots of posters here referencing custom high-end actions based around the remington 700 (surgeon, impact, etc), and the aftermarket seems flush with chassis systems, barrels, and whatnot to pair with this platform. At any rate, it's unclear to me if I can build something for under $5k, or if gunsmithing costs for chambering, bedding, etc is going to take me way over budget.

Is it true that action/barrel combos can be chambered DIY with a headspace gauge when using a chassis system? Or, is that dependant on the chassis?

Is bedding necessary? I was under the impression that a high quality chassis system would remove the need for bedding, is this correct?

If going the custom route, it seems to me that I would need:
action
barrel
chassis
lower/bottom-metal (is this the correct term for the part that the magazine and trigger group is inserted into?)
20MOA scope mount (if not alread part of the action)
rings
bipod
muzzle brake

Anything else?

What sorts of barrels should I be looking at for my needs? 24in seems to be a pretty common length for 6.5cm. But what about the profile, fluting, etc etc?

Thanks so much for reading, you guys have a ton of knowledge here on the forum, and I feel like I've learned so much already.
 
AT

Or custom and build yourself

Origin/Nucleus/TL3/Impact
PVA/Keystone/LRI/etc prefit shouldered barrel
Chassis of choice
Atlas PSR
Trigger of choice
Scope of choice
SPUHR or ARC rings (mount versus rings)
Hellfire/Heathen/Jetblast pick on looks

Find a match. Finger bang every action and chassis and scope you see. Best way to figure out what you like
 
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Thanks for the replies guys. Can you get an AI in 6.5CM? Their site only has .308win listed. Having to rebarrel etc would add considerable cost to that.

Does 'pre-fit' barrel mean that it can be done DIY with a vise, headspace gauge, and some wrenches?

Edit: do I not need to worry about bedding if I use a chassis?
 
Buy the AI and all your barrel problems go away. The AI AT barrels can be user-swapped in seconds. You can get a barrel from a variety of vendors and not have to send your rifle out.
 
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Right now, lol, because things could change after SHOT SHOW, I'd get an Impact 737.
A heavier profile SS barrel at 26" with a Area 419 self timing Hellfire brake. I prefer no finish and no fluting because those are extra charges on something/barrel, that'l wear out quickly.
MPA chassis.
Trigger Tech Diamond Pro single stage trigger.
ARC rings.
The real deal AICS mags.
FFP scope with Tree reticle.
 
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Im going to suggest you start with the AI AT. It's a great rifle and I'll admit im a bit if a fanboy. That being said.... the main reason I say go with the AI is it's a complete package that holds its value well. At this point I don't think building a custom rifle is the smartest option as you don't know why you should choose one chassis, barrel length, etc.. over another. Custom builds tend not to hold their value as well.

Buy the AI and go shoot some matches and/or club get togethers. When you are there talk to everyone and see if they will let you try their setups.

After a while you'll know what you like and want. If it's the AI, great. If it's a custom build, sell the AI and build what you want.
 
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Hello!

New to the forum, though I've been lurking for a couple of weeks, reading all I can. A little background: I'm in the market for a new rifle, that I'd like to use for PRS shooting, MAYBE some F-class, but no hunting. I think the longest distance at my local range is 600yd, but I'd like to be able to push it to 1000 if/when the opportunity presents itself. I'm new to the rifle world, but have been shooting pistols and shotguns for a while.

I plan to pick up a vortex razer HD Gen2 or NightForce ATAC-R in 5-25x56, from reading around the forums, these seem like two really great options.

Now, onto my question: Does anyone have any recommendations or opinions about a sub-$5000 rifle? I've been looking at the following in 6.5 creedmoor, and I think I'd really enjoy a chassis system rather than a traditional type stock:

RPR
Tikka T3
Bergara LRP-elite
AI AT

I know that's quite a range in price, but those are recommendations I see come up frequently here as far as factory setups.

A directly related question: Should I be entertaining a custom build? I have seen lots of posters here referencing custom high-end actions based around the remington 700 (surgeon, impact, etc), and the aftermarket seems flush with chassis systems, barrels, and whatnot to pair with this platform. At any rate, it's unclear to me if I can build something for under $5k, or if gunsmithing costs for chambering, bedding, etc is going to take me way over budget.

Is it true that action/barrel combos can be chambered DIY with a headspace gauge when using a chassis system? Or, is that dependant on the chassis?

Is bedding necessary? I was under the impression that a high quality chassis system would remove the need for bedding, is this correct?

If going the custom route, it seems to me that I would need:
action
barrel
chassis
lower/bottom-metal (is this the correct term for the part that the magazine and trigger group is inserted into?)
20MOA scope mount (if not alread part of the action)
rings
bipod
muzzle brake

Anything else?

What sorts of barrels should I be looking at for my needs? 24in seems to be a pretty common length for 6.5cm. But what about the profile, fluting, etc etc?

Thanks so much for reading, you guys have a ton of knowledge here on the forum, and I feel like I've learned so much already.


Seems there is a lot going through your mind right now...

A couple pieces of advice:

1) don't do a custom... unless you know exactly what you want or simply love DIY
- a few reasons for this, but the first is resale value on customs isn't currently and never has been real good
- second it's better than it used to be, but there is still no guarantee all of your selected parts will fit together like Lego blocks
(Fitting and timing may be required)
- There are so many good factory options. Unless you have specific needs not filled by factory options it's not worth the cost

2) AI's are easily among the best rifles money can buy!
- Still they're well into the realm of diminishing returns. You are paying 200% more for 50% better.
(will you shoot it enough or in dirty/sandy conditions that will make that 50% worth it?)
- With AI you are buying a system. There is very little if any chance to swap things or change things if you don't like something
- The pistol grip is rather large and has a big flat spot on the front. It's not perfect for everyone
- Make sure you get one made 2015 or after so you get the small firing pin. Date made is engraved on receiver
(large pin versions can be "bushed", but unless a smoking deal I wouldn't. Even "bushed" they don't have the resale of small pins)

3) Tikka, RPR and Begera are all good rifles. You can't go wrong with any.
- This is your best bang for the buck segment and my recommendation as the best place to for a new shooter to start.
- If you don't like the grip with any of these, unlike the AI, you can simply change them out for cheap
- Tikka does have the most after market stock/chassis options if you want options down the road
- Pick whichever you like best or get the best deal on. Then go enjoy your next few thousand rounds shooting it!



To answer a few other questions:
1)"Go"/"No Go" gauges can be used for head spacing DYI barrel swaps only when using "barrel nut" systems and pre-fit barrels without a shoulder (savage, big horn, remage).

2) Any barrel that has a "shoulder" (most barrels) can not have head space set with gauges. Head space is set by tightening barrel against front of action. Some custom actions are consistent enough you can buy pre-fit barrels that have a shoulder. Once again I wouldn't recommend most new shooters start with customs.

3) Bedding is never and I repeat NEVER something that is required. Can it help with accuracy and reduce stress in some circumstances, absolutely. Though with current levels of quality control and machining tolerances the chances of bedding being a worth while endeavor is diminishing.
 
Thanks for the detailed and informative reply Goosed. It really does sound like a factory rifle is the way to go for my first. I'm well aware of taking losses on resale of customized items from other hobbies, I have no idea why it didn't occur to me as it relates to rifles. You guys set me straight on this one.

Are there any other rifles you'd put into that category along with the tikka and bergara that I missed?
 
Check out the Tikka TAC A1. I started with a CTR and then went to the TAC A1 when I was considering putting the CTR in a chassis. With the TAC A1 and even cheap Hornady American Gunner I can easily get <0.75 MOA 5-shot groups. I'm sure the rifle is currently more accurate than I am. I'm enjoying using it to build up my skills. I'd say save the money over an AI for now and put it towards more practice.

On glass, I have the ATACR 7-35 and wish I could have that on every rifle. That said, I have the PST II 5-25 on my CTR and shooting it again the other day I had a total of 10 5 shot groups ranging from 0.55MOA to 0.82MOA.

(my current range is limited to 200 yards, should get in to a 600 yard range this summer)
 
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If you're just now getting into all of it, it really depends on how much money matters to you. If money doesn't matter, get the AI. They're fantastic. But even though resale is good, that doesn't mean you won't take a hit. The loss just won't be $2k+ like it could be on a custom rig.

I would advise against a custom rig until you know what you like or don't like.

If money does matter, it's really, really hard to go wrong with a Tikka CTR. You can roll with the factory stock for awhile, or go pick up any of a number of aftermarket stocks. And you'll be into the entire setup, including scope, for thousands less than your AI. And the difference in accuracy (if there is one) won't be anywhere near the difference in price. Most CTRs are 1/2 MOA guns with handloads. I have a CTR and it is stupidly consistent with a great trigger and very smooth action. They make prefit barrels for when I shoot mine out, and it's just a joy to shoot. Last match I cleaned the TYL stage at 800 yards with the last target being 4" square (1/2 MOA). You really don't have to spend $5k to buy a nice rig. It's 2019 and top-performance rifles can be had affordably.

But if money is no object, I'd still buy the AI. As much as I like my Tikka, the AI is just all sorts of badass.
 
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I would go with a Tikka CTR or Tac A1. Advantage to CTR is you can pick what chassis or stock you want and can modify from there, plus most aftermarket chassis take standard mags whereas the Tac A1 takes propriety and pricy Tikka's (But you do get 2 of them and 1 more after you register or something).

After going with the Tikka of your choosing, I'd put the rest of the money into glass (ATACR is excellent), mounts, ammo, bipod, etc. and down the road you can get a barrel upgrade - something like a Bartlein Gain Twist would be my suggestion. This will leave you with a very sound .5 MOA gun. A barrel upgrade may drop it to 3/8ths MOA. After that point, you're going to things to fit you perfectly - which is what you get from going fully custom from a top smith/builder.

JMO.
 
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Last time I posted on one of these I said go AI or TRG and never look back and got some hate, so this time I'm going to say GO AI OR TRG! DONT LOOK BACK!

Unless you are a whimsical kind of person who next week may be into racing chainsaws or ballet or what ever or you are the kind who needs to "earn it" and do it the hard way and then I say get a Howa/Tikka/remington/salvage/Rpr in 308 that holds its value and teaches you to read the wind and "earn it".

But do it in 6.5, for the love of JMB.(and I shoot 308 out of a budget rifle)
 
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