The ARC rings are so much more user-friendly than anything else that unless you have a compelling reason not to run them (such as the parallax throw lever issue on short Kahles scopes), they’re the obvious choice. M10 is the old style, MBRACE is the new, both are equivalently excellent.
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Newbie looking for first precision rifle advice
- Thread starter Mauser4me
- Start date
If you want the ready to shoot, reliable and accurate rifle, go for Tikka TAC A1, 6.5 creedmoor.
I have had 2.
If you want to build one by your self, buy a Tikka T3X CTR in same caliber, but dont get the 20" barrel, get it in 24" if the 1000 yards is the long distance where you can send it.
Buy a KRG Whiskey chassis and you have a propper precision rifle.
Here's a link to the manufacturer site that provides the info.
https://www.bergara.online/us/rifles/premier/hmr-pro-rifle/
| BPR20-65MCHB | $1799 | 6.5 Creedmoor Heavy Barrel | 9.6 lbs | 44" | 24" | 1:8 | AICS detachable | 5 round mag provided |
Arc nucleus with arc rings or even an Archimedes if you want to spend a couple extra bucks. Owen at front range precision probably has a proof in stock or can get you one quick. There’s a bad ass set up right there in whatever stock you desire.
The whole "Look in the Px, and get a used, turn key setup for half the cost of new!" is bullshit.
These setups rarely come up at all, and the chances are that it's anything near what you want/need is far less. On top of that, it's NEVER a deal. Typically, whatever you find there is 95% cost of buying new.
I just combed the PX through 5 pages, is there is literally one rifle that may fit his criteria.
Finding what you want would be catching lightning in a bottle.
Same goes for scopes.
"ChEck Teh PX! S&B pmii oN tHeRE aLL teH timE fOr hALf teH cOst oF NeW!"
Rarely seen a PmII there that wasn't beat to hell and the seller still wanting retail.
These setups rarely come up at all, and the chances are that it's anything near what you want/need is far less. On top of that, it's NEVER a deal. Typically, whatever you find there is 95% cost of buying new.
I just combed the PX through 5 pages, is there is literally one rifle that may fit his criteria.
Finding what you want would be catching lightning in a bottle.
Same goes for scopes.
"ChEck Teh PX! S&B pmii oN tHeRE aLL teH timE fOr hALf teH cOst oF NeW!"
Rarely seen a PmII there that wasn't beat to hell and the seller still wanting retail.
I agree with your scope recommendation, for the action I also would 100% do a custom one with a prefit option. I have been super pleased with my defiance actions. I would go for a ruckus hands down, and in your position when you order it I would do both a standard and magnum bolt (only a few hundred extra) and then start with say the 6.5CM and you always have the option to bump up to something more exotic if you want to that requires a mag bolt and spin the barrel on at home(7 Saum, 6.5 prc, 300WSM or any of the Sherman varieties which I really like).
Even if you are not comfortable swapping barres now, you leave that option open for the future. Just my two thoughts, and if I was building for the first time that is the direction I would go.
Even if you are not comfortable swapping barres now, you leave that option open for the future. Just my two thoughts, and if I was building for the first time that is the direction I would go.
Make sure you get a copy of Ryan Cleckner's book:
Make sure you get a cooy of Ryan Cleckner's book: Long Range Shooting Handbook.
I'm a newbie, too and love it. Sniper's Hide is also the best site I've found.
I have shot a bunch of calibers..just depends on the purpose..the 6.5 c.m. (IMHO).is probably the best for whitetails..out to 500..load it for heavy (143+) bullets...dial it down a bit,and it will definitely beat any other low recoil cartridge...I prefer bowhunting,but banging steel over 500 is really COOL
@Mauser4me, I am no expert, having recently gotten into the game, but I can tell you about my experience.
I inherited, unfortunately, what seemed like--and has thus far proven to be--a very nice "tactical" rifle, in 6.5 Creedmoor. It was from Materpiece Arms. After a couple of classes with it, I found that it needed a better scope, than the Burris XTR II, that was on it. The Burris glass seemed fine to me, but the reticle was (I don't recall offhand the name of it) very plain-jane; crosshairs and nothing more. The magnification was adequate (5-25). I ended up going the, "cry once," route in replacing the scope and couldn't be happier (especially, sine the missus never saw what I paid for the new scope)! The new scope is basically the same power(4.5-27).
My point would be, don't look at max power for your scope. Look at the reticle (you really do want that christmas tree), and the quality of the glass. A Ruger precision rifle, with great glass would be the way I would go, knowing what I know now.
Best of luck and happy shooting!
I inherited, unfortunately, what seemed like--and has thus far proven to be--a very nice "tactical" rifle, in 6.5 Creedmoor. It was from Materpiece Arms. After a couple of classes with it, I found that it needed a better scope, than the Burris XTR II, that was on it. The Burris glass seemed fine to me, but the reticle was (I don't recall offhand the name of it) very plain-jane; crosshairs and nothing more. The magnification was adequate (5-25). I ended up going the, "cry once," route in replacing the scope and couldn't be happier (especially, sine the missus never saw what I paid for the new scope)! The new scope is basically the same power(4.5-27).
My point would be, don't look at max power for your scope. Look at the reticle (you really do want that christmas tree), and the quality of the glass. A Ruger precision rifle, with great glass would be the way I would go, knowing what I know now.
Best of luck and happy shooting!
Hey man! I was in your shoes less than 6 months ago. I researched the heck out everything to do with exactly what you’re talking about. I have been shooting both rifles and pistols my whole life. I wanted to delve into the world of precision shooting. There are many good resources on the internet, in particular, social media. I subscribe to several. It comes down to so many factors in the end. It’s also pretty personal in the end. I ended up purchasing a Savage Elite Precision in 6.5 Creedmore. The reasons for me were these: cost is reasonable. The MDT chassis, which is ultimately changeable in many ways, was a priority for me. I am utilizing this as a tool to learn the craft. I’m getting used to a chassis gun for the first time. 6.5 Creedmore for the factory ammo (Hornady fan) availability, and the fact that it’s a set up that won’t burn out a barrel in 1000 rounds or less. Sure there are some complaints about the ejectors and some hate the trigger. Again, workable items, and neither bother me or affect me in any way. I figured it’s asking allot to get 100% of everything perfect right out of the box. This system is very accurate, and provides me a platform to have a blast and at the same time have great gun with tons of ways to customize as I go along, which means learning and adjusting! That’s fun for me. Optics are a huge deal for sure. I have Vortex Razor HD I got used and it’s awesome. I also got a new Arken that I’m excited to try. The Arken is a really solid purchase for the money (around $500 for a really nice piece) and the glass is really nice. Im no expert like I said, but this is my story. Anyway, good luck and hit me back if there’s anything I may be able to share that might help!
Have a seekins havoc in 6.5 that is sub Mia out to 600 yds. Rifle shoots better than I can
My 2 cents: I made a similar move abt 2 yrs ago: wanted something a little more precision. Bought Ruger Precision Rifle in 308. Yes, 6.5 Creed definitely shoots flatter and holds super sonic farther but l also reload, had significant investment in 308 so I stuck w that cal. Votrex Viper PST 6-24 on top so I’ve got maybe $1800 invested. Shots 0.50-0.75 MOA easy at 100 yds with 168 grain SMK or my hand loads, as long as I don’t do something stupid. 600 yds is my longest range unless I drive 3 hours. I’m hitting 9” paper plates at that distance. I’m really happy with the RPR. It shoots better that my skill level at present. Good luck.
There’s a guy selling a nice wood stocked PRS style 6BR as I recall on here, add a vortex razor or whatever and you’d be good.
Seems crossing 800yrds the game changes a good bit, if you can settle <800 lots of options, if you want to hit that 1k well things change from what I have experienced.
Found it
www.snipershide.com
Seems crossing 800yrds the game changes a good bit, if you can settle <800 lots of options, if you want to hit that 1k well things change from what I have experienced.
Found it
Firearms - Sold,
Fellow Hide Members, With another surgery planned on for 29 July my shooting days are numbered. So instead of this beauty sitting in the safe I figure someone else could enjoy it. Action: Impact 737R Barrel: Barlien M24 26” 5R 1-8 twist chambered in 6BR Stock: Foundation Centurion Dark...
www.snipershide.com
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I can say I went through the samething a few years ago.From just hunting with 7mm Rem Mag to Benchrest & F Class too Long Range and ELR now.
I would have to say 6.5 Creedmoor is the most readily available and cost efficient out there.I went with that in a Remington 700 PCR.They are hard to find now.Afterwards I went to a Bergara Premier Pro in 6.5 PRC .I think the Begara Premier Pro is aboput as good of a factory rifle you can buy under $2,000. Ive not been a fan of Tikka because of the smaller bolt size.Thats just me.They have good reviews. Id definetly go with 6.5 Creedmoor though.
Checkout the Savage Model 12 LRP chambered in 6.5 Creed. I’ve invested just a tad over $2k and I do reload. Take a hard look at the Vortex scopes. Good quality, and fit my budget. Mounted a 6X25 - 50mm with 1/4 MOA adjustment. Shooting 140 gr. Hornady ELD Match. I’m at 2 MOA at 500 meters(that’s 546.8 yds). Working my way out to 1k yds.
Is Zermatt the only maker of the origin action? Trying to figure out where to get an origin action. Or who makes them at least. Then, where could I get a pre-barreled one.
Answers to everything were already given on page 1. Here are 3. You can find more very easily.
Actions/Barreled Actions - Barreled Actions - Patriot Valley Arms
patriotvalleyarms.com
Custom Rifle Actions for sale Defiance, Kelbly, Terminus, Impact, Zermatt, Stiller, Borden
Custom Rifle Actions from Defiance, Kelbly, Terminus, Impact, Zermatt, Stiller, Borden
www.bugholes.com
Barreled Actions Archives - Straight Jacket Armory
straightjacketarmory.com
Except don’t order from Straight Jacket Armory, sounds like they have shenanigans around the term “in stock.”Answers to everything were already given on page 1. Here are 3. You can find more very easily.
Actions/Barreled Actions - Barreled Actions - Patriot Valley Arms
Custom Rifle Actions for sale Defiance, Kelbly, Terminus, Impact, Zermatt, Stiller, Borden
Custom Rifle Actions from Defiance, Kelbly, Terminus, Impact, Zermatt, Stiller, Bordenwww.bugholes.comBarreled Actions Archives - Straight Jacket Armory
First one, wanting a factory
I'd do this
www.tikka.fi
in caliber of choice
Or this
choose.tikka.fi
In the same.
I'd do this
Tikka T3x - The ultimate tool for accuracy
Tikka T3x rifles are built with long-standing gunsmith expertise based on tradition and innovation, allowing you to choose between different models for the given hunting or training purpose.
www.tikka.fi
Or this
Choose your own Tikka rifle from a variety of innovative models
Tikka is able to meet the requirements of modern hunters by combining traditional gunsmith know-how with advanced technology. Choose your own Tikka rifle now!
choose.tikka.fi
Wouldn't the most logical choice be either a Bergara HMR or Ruger Precision Rifle?
There literally nothing you have to do with the rifle itself to make it do good enough, and it's cheap enough to invest most of the budget in good optics.
Edit: completely forgot that you Americans get Tikka rifles for less than half of what they cost here in Europe, so a CTR, super varmint or TAC might be the best choice.
There literally nothing you have to do with the rifle itself to make it do good enough, and it's cheap enough to invest most of the budget in good optics.
Edit: completely forgot that you Americans get Tikka rifles for less than half of what they cost here in Europe, so a CTR, super varmint or TAC might be the best choice.
I am very happy with my Bergara HMR in 6.5CM. Shoots sub .5 moa with factory Hornady ammo. I’m using a Vortex Viper PST 2 and have no problems shooting out to 1000 yards. I would not be afraid of getting a .308 as you will learn a lot shooting that caliber and ammo is very easy to get
I started with a Christiansen Arms MPR in 6.5 Creedmoor. If I hunted, I would have kept the gun as it weighted only 8 lbs. For a range gun, I found it to be too light. I suppose I could have added weights. This rifle can be had for only $2000 new and less if buying pre-owned. When I sold it, I kept my Schmidt Bender PMii 5x25 scope and use the scope on my current rifle. As for actions, I like Zermatt or Defiance. As for bipods, I have several different types. My least favorite is Harris. Reason, no 45 degree deployment. Atlas, Accutec and Cadex all make very good bipods. Mounts? I am a fan of Spuhr mainly because of the number of attachment points. Good luck with your quest.
I was in your same situation. Look at the Savage Elite Precision, Savage Tactical, etc. I have five sightron scopes, s3, s5, s8, they are amazing for the $$$. The new S8 5 x 40 x 56 is the next level. I also run a Atlon Ares 4.5 x 30 x 56 that has taken me out to a mile. Very nice scope for the $$$. Lots of value. I shoot (budget) Precision rifles from .22lr to (custom).50 bmg. Most rifles these days are sub MOA out of the box with factory ammo. I like Savage because they are really accurate and easy to swap profits, triggers, etc. I own, have shot a bunch of customs, etc. They can be accurate but I have also seen them not as good as an off the shelf rifle (pick your brand). The Tikkas feel decent and I have not seen one not shoot sub moa. Most less Than .5 moa. All my savages shoot less than .5 but I hand load.
I'd recommend a 20" tikka CTR, solid used japanese/LOW scope from the PX, KRG bravo and some ammo.
You can grow with the tikka as it will be about as accurate as a custom barrel, great single stage trigger with the option for 2 stages if you prefer, bolt handles/knobs, bottom metals, already threaded for a suppressor/brake of your choosing, etc.
I've tried a ton of different stocks and keep coming back to the bravo - its super rigid, comfortable and marginally heavier than most of these other stocks when you factor in the bottom metal. You can also paint it however you want.
Scope, well, that is such a personal preference thing between the reticle, features, glass etc. You will trade in and out of a few before you find what you like. A used athlon cronus for about $1200 in the PX is a good place to start. Go mils immediately, dividing by 10 is easier than 4.
The PX here is your friend and what helped me grow immensely over the last few years as a shooter and hunter. My Tikka CTR has gone through MANY scopes, stocks, barrels etc. Almost all bought lightly used here and I've in turn done the same, selling off what I didn't need. Just found out this week I am having twins, so my arsenal won't be changing, let alone growing, for some time lol.
Biggest thing in this entire game is access to actual "long range" steel targets, 500 yards plus. I am fortunate to have grown up on farms and get access to them for my hobby, especially rare on the east coast. If it wasn't for that, it would get boring very quickly at only 2-300 yards. Even more boring when you're only shooting paper.
If you really get into this, then you can worry about the fancy bipods, tripods, kestrels etc later on.
These are my thoughts for someone new, but there are many members on here that forget more in an hour than what I know so far.
You can grow with the tikka as it will be about as accurate as a custom barrel, great single stage trigger with the option for 2 stages if you prefer, bolt handles/knobs, bottom metals, already threaded for a suppressor/brake of your choosing, etc.
I've tried a ton of different stocks and keep coming back to the bravo - its super rigid, comfortable and marginally heavier than most of these other stocks when you factor in the bottom metal. You can also paint it however you want.
Scope, well, that is such a personal preference thing between the reticle, features, glass etc. You will trade in and out of a few before you find what you like. A used athlon cronus for about $1200 in the PX is a good place to start. Go mils immediately, dividing by 10 is easier than 4.
The PX here is your friend and what helped me grow immensely over the last few years as a shooter and hunter. My Tikka CTR has gone through MANY scopes, stocks, barrels etc. Almost all bought lightly used here and I've in turn done the same, selling off what I didn't need. Just found out this week I am having twins, so my arsenal won't be changing, let alone growing, for some time lol.
Biggest thing in this entire game is access to actual "long range" steel targets, 500 yards plus. I am fortunate to have grown up on farms and get access to them for my hobby, especially rare on the east coast. If it wasn't for that, it would get boring very quickly at only 2-300 yards. Even more boring when you're only shooting paper.
If you really get into this, then you can worry about the fancy bipods, tripods, kestrels etc later on.
These are my thoughts for someone new, but there are many members on here that forget more in an hour than what I know so far.
THANK YOU. This helps a ton and is exactly what I was looking for. I’ll reach out to Altus and get on the list. Is it possible to get an origin action and barrel with the same finish? Don’t expect I’ll fly through my first barrel too quickly and I’d like the gun to look like one unit instead of Lego-pieces together. Does Altus offer that service?
The origin is nitrided and its not worth nitriding the barrel too. They can paint/cerakote your barrel.
That said, a rifle put together correctly with good parts only looks like lego pieces to idiots who dont know what they are looking at.
As @spife7980 said, Altus will cerakote your barrel for you if you want and do an excellent job.
Defiance Deviant nitrided and the Bartlein barrel cerakoted. From Altus.
Awesome! That rifle looks awesome and thanks for the answer. What chassis is that?
J Allen Enterprise aka a JAE. They are OOB but MDT will be re-releasing it soon. They bought JAE jigs, tools, IP, etc.
I also have a Zermatt Origin (Zermatt used to be named BigHorn) and concur that it is a great platform. I went with a Bartlein barrel (using the BugNut system) chambered by Greg at Southern Precision Rifles. It regularly shoots sub half moa. It's more expensive to go this route than buying an off the shelf rifle like the Bergara HMR Pro, Savage Elite Precision, Seekins Havak, and other good candidates previously mentioned, but the end result is a great rifle that is affordable and I can change barrels in my shop. If your budget can handle that route, don't hesitate.
origin (front range precision)
proof 6.5cm/6cm prefit (front range precision)
ARC M Brace Rings
Razor Gen 3 in MIL
A419 Hellfire Match
BnA Tacsport Pro (Trigger Tech if you wanna gamble)
chassis/stock of choice (KRG Bravo is a good budget choice)
factory guns are cool, as long as it's a tikka and you change out the stock
i'd really consider a 223 proof prefit and order a bunch of berger 77gr ammo. then for hunting get a lighter barrel or a carbon in 6.5PRC or something
or if you wanna jump into reloading get a 6Dasher proof and Peterson brass
proof 6.5cm/6cm prefit (front range precision)
ARC M Brace Rings
Razor Gen 3 in MIL
A419 Hellfire Match
BnA Tacsport Pro (Trigger Tech if you wanna gamble)
chassis/stock of choice (KRG Bravo is a good budget choice)
factory guns are cool, as long as it's a tikka and you change out the stock
i'd really consider a 223 proof prefit and order a bunch of berger 77gr ammo. then for hunting get a lighter barrel or a carbon in 6.5PRC or something
or if you wanna jump into reloading get a 6Dasher proof and Peterson brass
@Mauser4me, I haven’t read anywhere on this thread if you are a veteran or LE. However, if you are, I’d look into the veteran discounts offered directly by some scope manufacturers.
I do not qualify for this benefit but I see you are leaning towards Vortex for a scope and I know they take good care of LE and military.
Good luck in your search. Lot’s of good advice on this thread for someone new.
I do not qualify for this benefit but I see you are leaning towards Vortex for a scope and I know they take good care of LE and military.
Good luck in your search. Lot’s of good advice on this thread for someone new.
Yea I will be getting a barreled origin action from Altus in 6.5CM, that is cerakoted. Then the KRG bravo & vortex razor gen 3.
I know I want a heavy 24”+ barrel, but are there any brands I should steer towards? Then once I get everything else I’ll order the rings that have a bubble level on them. I have a Harris engineering bipod I can use for the time being. I think that should be a decent first set up once I pick a barrel. I think?
I know I want a heavy 24”+ barrel, but are there any brands I should steer towards? Then once I get everything else I’ll order the rings that have a bubble level on them. I have a Harris engineering bipod I can use for the time being. I think that should be a decent first set up once I pick a barrel. I think?
Bartlein, Hawk Hill, Krieger are the top three that come to my mind. I have a Bartlein and Hawk Hill in two separate precision rifle builds and both are great shooters. My Dad has a Krieger in a gas gun and it's fantastic as well. Rock Creek, Brux and Mullerworks are other top shelf choices, but I have no experience with them. If you've got the budget to pick up a Vortex Razor Gen 3, consider upgrading to an MPA (Matrix or BA Comp) chassis or an MDT (ACC or ESS) chassis or the XLR Envy Pro chassis. My friend has a KRG Bravo and it's a decent starter, however I wouldn't pick it for this build that you're selecting these very good parts for. Just my $.02. Also, consider the Vortex Precision Matched Rings, which are made by Seekins Precision. Then add a MKM Precision bubble level for that Razor. Don't forget a TriggerTech special or diamond trigger.
Sorry, but I keep spending your money for ya! Except for the Razor Gen 3 (mine wears the Gen 2 4.5-27x56), this is sounding like a parts list for my PRS rifle...
Pic from a couple years ago.
I'll take dibs on all the 338 Lapua you can buy for $4-$6/round. ....more like $8-$15/round for quality factory in my world. 308Win is a venerable old warrior used for decades to make hits at the range you target....great for learning. If you ain't got a 308, you ain't a shooter, all newbies have Creedmores. Beware betting against a 308 shooter versus a Creedmore geek. Tongue in cheek, but prove me wrong.
Starting out you don't know what you don't know, don't know what to ask/learn/choose. A good shooter with an average rifle/caliber will always out shoot a ho-hum shooter with an expensive rifle/caliber. At range, consistency is King; repeatability is Queen; technique is the Ace up your sleeve. Starting out you are the Court Jester......the weak link. You don't mention budget or if money is irrelevant. Assuming the former, which is usually the case for beginners. Starting out, spend your money on quality optics (repeatability, accuracy, resolution, robustness, clarity, your eye's preference, etc....spend til it brings tears to your eyes.....buy once, cry once, happy ever after....good glass transfers to top quality rifles and have forever warranties....great investment). Spend like a "snubbed woman with her cheating husband's credit card" on ammo for practice. Invest in quality training by proven shooters ( the Todd Hodnett/Bryan Litz/Darrel Holland guys of the shooting world) learning ballistics, developing solid shooting techniques (position building, recoil management, trigger technique....), wind calling skills. Shoot, shoot, shoot the wind til it's your friend. The wind separates the shooters from the trigger yankers. The bullet always knows; the wind always shows. The best rifles won't hit any target at distance if the shooter can't call the wind. Once the wind is your friend, and you either shoot out the barrel or truly out shoot the capabilities of your rifle, then spend money on higher grade rifle. ...move the glass. By that point you will be better able to make the expensive rifle decisions with skill.....you'll get better value for your big expenditures and reap more performance for your money. There are many great rifles to choose from, overwhelming options starting out, easy to waste money due to minimal knowledge, lack of understanding. While you are becoming NOT the weak link, take your time learning the differences in rifles by talking to other owners/shooters, handling/shooting all the offerings, learning, and forming your growing knowledgeable preferences. Happy learning and shooting.. Caution......... it's addictive and will get expensive. HOT TIP: find a Sugar Momma early on.......Bartlein in M24 or MTU....that's what I have run on the gun you admired in the pic I posted above. I do remember some time ago anguishing over barrel contour far beyond what was justified. Take a look at Bartlein barrel contours and pic one.
As mentioned about, there are many other very good qual barrel manufactures and I have indeed bought barrels from both Bugholes (Southern Precision, yeah) and Altus. Both seem to me to be top shelf outfits and are highly trustworthy.
Any reason for 24"....and I'm willing to be corrected on this, but 24" barrel is 23" (about) extending past the end of the action (the 24" includes the tenon, right?).
I have two JAE chassis mounted rifles, one an M24 and one an MTU, and both are 26" which looks like 25" extending out of the action.
Contour Info | Bartlein Barrels
www.bartleinbarrels.com
Contour Dimensions | Bartlein Barrels
www.bartleinbarrels.com
Also, I'm former mil but not retired mil. So, I don't qual for Vortex discount. But Leupold's program will accept anyone with a DD214 (you do get one of those in the National Guard when you separate, right?). You just contact them, they will direct you where to upload your proof of service, then after approval when you log in all you see are your large discount prices. Just pop what you want into your cart and check out. Easy peasy.
With that in mind, you may want to look at a Leupold Mk5 HD 5-25 x 56. The discount for mil was very significant and easy to do.
Mark 5HD Rifle Scope | Leupold
Leupold's Mark 5HD riflescope delivers superior edge-to-edge clarity and extreme low-light performance, while the versatility of its multiple reticle options will give you an advantage at the range or in the field. With three revolutions of elevation adjustment, the Mark 5HD scope was built to...
www.leupold.com
While im new to long range precision shooting, im far from new to shooting rifles in general. I’ve hunted, and fired many calibers in many setups, so I am comfortable buying a custom setup at this point with the great advice I’ve received. My experience is that cheap never pays off. I want quality from the get go instead of buying things I KNOW I will replace. Sounds like with precut barrels I won’t be stuck with 6.5 CM anyways if I end up hating it. I’ve had several 308s before so am familiar with the caliber. I’ve always been a milsurp guy and recently liquidated about 40 rifles from the WW1/WW2 collection so I’m using some of those funds (and empty space in the safe) to get/build a precision rifle. At my local range I usually go every Saturday morning and plink paper targets at 100-300 yards with the iron sights on my M1903s/Gewehr 98s etc
I am looking to move out of the left coast where I am now down to Texas in the next few months and then will really get into it, so the nearest range at the moment isn’t super relevant.
I am looking to move out of the left coast where I am now down to Texas in the next few months and then will really get into it, so the nearest range at the moment isn’t super relevant.
Alright I’m building the action on Altus’ site and it’s asking the desired twist rate for the bore. What’s a good twist rate for 6.5CM?
Also choosing a trigger from his options:
TriggerTech Remington 700 Special
TriggerTech Diamond
Bix'n Andy TacSport Pro
Timney "The Hit" Trigger
Jewell HVR
Also choosing a trigger from his options:
TriggerTech Remington 700 Special
TriggerTech Diamond
Bix'n Andy TacSport Pro
Timney "The Hit" Trigger
Jewell HVR
For the 140 gr and heavier, it's usually recommended to go 1:8 or 1:7.5. I have several TriggerTech triggers (flat shoe), and would definitely go for the TriggerTech Diamond from that list.
1:8 will do it all and 1:7.5 works also. I’m a triggertech fan and have specials on many rifles and a diamond on my comp rifle. The diamond can go a bit lighter but I do not have mine down low and could probably be the same pull weight with a special. So to answer your question 1:8 and a special should be great for you.
