newbie question about cleaning the bore

[Walter Haas]

What do you do if you’re sick of running the patch through but there’s still some carbon coming out on the patch? I ran a nylon bore brush through and then more solvent but no matter how many times there was always carbon still coming through, though less and less. I use Boretech Eliminator. does the patch have to end up perfectly clean before you can say that’s good enough?

 

[Newbie2020]

What do you do if you’re sick of running the patch through but there’s still some carbon coming out on the patch? I ran a nylon bore brush through and then more solvent but no matter how many times there was always carbon still coming through, though less and less. I use Boretech Eliminator. does the patch have to end up perfectly clean before you can say that’s good enough?

There’s a really good sticky thread covering a BUNCH of these types of questions called “Getting started in long range shooting”

The answer given in that thread was “no” your bore doesn’t need to be squeaky clean, and the author recommends it NOT be totally free from either carbon or copper.

That said, I’ve also read many other smart people (and former snipers) insist the patches come out totally clean.

I’m anxious to see what else comes up here.

 

[_Windrider_]

It’s staying dirty because boretech eliminator is a carbon and copper solvent. What you are likely seeing is copper. Try a pure carbon remover like KG1. Make sure that patches come out clean. Then run some oil on a patch then use a patch to get the excess.

 

[wade2big]

No it does not need to be perfectly clean. Even if you were to get it spotless, one round through and it isn't anymore.

Push a wet patch through. Push a brush through a few times then push a few more wet patches through until it is relatively clean. Push a couple dry patches and you are done. Some guys skip the brush all together.

 

[Gatorshark]

Unless you are a bore cleaner, dry patch salesperson. In which case, you should keep going till the patch is clean.

I, however, follow the above recommendation.

 

[Walter Haas]

Unless you are a bore cleaner, dry patch salesperson. In which case, you should keep going till the patch is clean.

I, however, follow the above recommendation.

I'll do it that way.

 

[acudaowner]

no dinner for you till the barrel squeaks .

 

[Newbie2020]

No it does not need to be perfectly clean. Even if you were to get it spotless, one round through and it isn't anymore.

Push a wet patch through. Push a brush through a few times then push a few more wet patches through until it is relatively clean. Push a couple dry patches and you are done. Some guys skip the brush all together.

Phosphor bronze brush vs nylon brush?

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Are you doing this with a muzzle break on?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Are you doing this with a muzzle break on?

This is an important question - you will pick up carbon coming off the brake and it will look like a dirty barrel. And you should be regularly cleaning your brake anyway. I let mine sit in an old pill bottle with diluted Boretech Carbon Remover and shake it every so often. Then I take a brush to it in the sink to get the leftover carbon off.

Also, you can run a dozen+ patches and still not get the carbon in the rifling - carbon lines can still show on the patch. If you really want to get a barrel squeaky clean, use a nylon brush with Boretech's Bore Paste after running patches, then clean it out with a couple more afterward. I worry about pastes being abrasive, though, so I really don't use it often.

 

[Milo 2.5]

For the cost of one of these, why not know for yourself what your barrel likes, trial and error. All barrels are different when it comes to how clean they need to be.

Amazon.com : teslong borescope

So many things that can skew what patches look like, do you run a eye hook to apply solvents? Do you bring a brush back through the bore? Reason I ask these questions, they can bring crap back into your bore guide, so unless your bore guide is spotless, your patches never will be.
Today, I take my barrels to bare metal, cleaning is a pain, and it takes 5-10 min more to do so. I look at it like this, something in your barrel caused the fouling needed for the barrel to be accurate on some barrels, it will put it back in a few rds and you are off and running.

 

[CygnusX1]

Nylon brushes allow you to go back and forth in the bore but are soft scrub.
Use a tight phosphore brush (Otis comes to mind) but get it out of the muzzle completly if you want to pull it back in.
Some recommend unscrewing the brush once out of the muzzle and re-inserting it fromthe breach side again

ALWAYS wipe the cleaning rod at every pass

Parker Hale style Jags are great to get more patch surface in the bore too

 

[Walter Haas]

Are you doing this with a muzzle break on?

Sorry, I didn't see this question for me. Yes, the muzzle brake is on, I don't think it comes off unless a gunsmith does it. I think its a muzzle brake. Don't I sound like an idiot? I haven't got that far yet!

 

[2aBaC̶a̶]

Sorry, I didn't see this question for me. Yes, the muzzle brake is on, I don't think it comes off unless a gunsmith does it. I think its a muzzle brake. Don't I sound like an idiot? I haven't got that far yet!

Well your muzzle break ends up with a ton of carbon in and a patch will pick it up as it goes through.

Did you get everything figured out at the range?

 

[The Muffin Man]

Depending on what cleaner you are using you could let it soak overnight. Boretech eliminator should be fine for an overnight soak but don’t consider it with any of the high ammonia cleaners like sweets. Also are you sure you are using the right size patches and what sort of jag are you using?

 

[Walter Haas]

Depending on what cleaner you are using you could let it soak overnight. Boretech eliminator should be fine for an overnight soak but don’t consider it with any of the high ammonia cleaners like sweets. Also are you sure you are using the right size patches and what sort of jag are you using?

i’m using triangle patches now, they’re tight but I can get it through. I run boretech eliminator till most of the residue is gone then a couple dry patches then FP 10 oil. The jags bronze needle point from Dewey that you punch the needle through the fabric.

 

[The Muffin Man]

And just to clarify, are you seeing black / grey on the patches or seeing blue? Might try picking up some of the Parker hale style jags like previously mentioned and switching to square patches as that should maximize your surface area contact. What is your process right now in terms of wet / dry / brushes that you run?

 

[308pirate]

does the patch have to end up perfectly clean before you can say that’s good enough?

No. it never will.

 

[Walter Haas]

And just to clarify, are you seeing black / grey on the patches or seeing blue? Might try picking up some of the Parker hale style jags like previously mentioned and switching to square patches as that should maximize your surface area contact. What is your process right now in terms of wet / dry / brushes that you run?

I haven't been using brushes yet, I've only fired around 60 rounds since I bought the gun. I do see the clear fluid turn blue, don't know what that means. I usually end with some light grey rifling streaks but with the solvent blue. So blue and grey both.

 

[The Muffin Man]

Is the firearm new or did you get it used? If it's new, it shouldn't have that much carbon buildup if you've only fired 60 rounds. The blue streaks are the Boretech Eliminator removing the copper fouling from the bore.

I'm almost wondering if the grey you are seeing is actually the barrel steel and not carbon. Honestly I would run patches till you get rid of the blue and any black, if they are only coming out a very light shade of grey you are good to go. Final step run a lightly oiled patch if the rifle is going to sit if not shoot it and see what sort of groups you are getting. Depending on what the expectations are for the rifle and yourself, if you find its not grouping to satisfaction you can always purchase a borescope and take a look inside the bore and see if you have any carbon buildup anywhere.

You might also watch a few of the rifle cleaning videos on youtube if you want some ideas on what all the rifle cleaning process entails; I highly recommend the National Shooting Sports Foundation one with Ryan Cleckner or 8541 Tactical has a pretty good one as well.

 

[Walter Haas]

The blue is from the solvent breaking down copper left in the barrel by the copper jacketed bullet.

The use of bronze jags can also cause the blue coloring. This is typically referred to as a false positive when trying to determine if your barrel is fouled with copper. The use of jags made from other materials will help to prevent this false positive.

Brass and bronze both contain copper and I forgot to mention my Boretech Eliminator turns blue as soon as it contacts the jag before I put it into the bore. The jag was part of a kit from J. Dewey. Don't know if its bronze or brass.

 

[Walter Haas]

I meant to write brass, not bronze.

You should pickup a couple of jags that don't contain brass. I suggest either of these:

• Bore Tech: Proof Positive Jags
• Pro-Shot: Trace Eraser Jags

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Thanks!

 

[bobdog]

Brass and bronze both contain copper and I forgot to mention my Boretech Eliminator turns blue as soon as it contacts the jag before I put it into the bore. The jag was part of a kit from J. Dewey. Don't know if its bronze or brass.

Dewey sells aluminum jags. Just bought a couple directly from them.