Strongest bore cleaner available

[Ronws]

Just hawk tuah on that thing. That'll clean it.

 

[Turkeytider]

Borescopes, like calipers, only belong in the hands of “pros”.

I found when reloading that I had misread my calipers once so I threw them in the trash and went back to using my trusty Stanley 25’ rule.

Understanding how to use and interpret results from a precision “tool” is a complete waste of time.

Follow me, for more tips to simplify your life.

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Kinda like, “ All you really need to get through life is a sharp knife, a roll of duck tape, and a can of WD-40 ! “.

 

[Frank Green]

Please do not use the JB red paste....ask @Frank Green of Bartlein barrels.

As for how to use a mild abrasive like JB Compound (blue), I also follow Mr. Green's advise and its worked well for me.

I've used the JB blue and Rem 40X which is even more mild. I don't use abrasives often but have done so...mostly when I see carbon building up just past where the case neck ends.

Get a Parker Hale style jag (the ones you wrap a patch around like rolling a cigarette), rub some paste into a patch (I dampen it first with Kroil oil...just makes it a bit easier to handle), wrap the patch around the PH jag and run it back and forth 10-15 times without exiting the muzzle, and then short stroke up by the throat.

https://deweyrods.com/product/24-caliber-brass-parker-hale-style-jag-male-threaded/

If all you are interested in is that carbon just past where the neck of the cartridge ends, just do the short stoke. You will have to back your bore guide up a bit after getting the jag/patch into the bore so as to get to that area.

And one other thing you said that caught my attention...."It made the whole barrel spotless and immaculate". Just my view but you aren't doing yourself any favors by always scrubbing it to bare metal.

Best of luck

Want a strong cleaner...

Sweet's 7.62 Solvent. One patch after another till they don't come out blue anymore.

Dry patch chamber and bore completely after the wet patches come out clean.

Then grab a patch with 40x cleaner. 10x up and down the bore. NO BRUSH! PATCH ONLY!

Dry patch it out completely and then a light coat of Hoppes. Dry that out before shooting it.

That's the fast short version.

 

[Caba]

Want a strong cleaner...

Sweet's 7.62 Solvent. One patch after another till they don't come out blue anymore.

Dry patch chamber and bore completely after the wet patches come out clean.

Then grab a patch with 40x cleaner. 10x up and down the bore. NO BRUSH! PATCH ONLY!

Dry patch it out completely and then a light coat of Hoppes. Dry that out before shooting it.

That's the fast short version.

What kind of jag do you use Frank? Pierce, loop, parker hale?

 

[Frank Green]

What kind of jag do you use Frank? Pierce, loop, parker hale?

Parker Hale.

Why? I roll the patch (nice cotton patches like Proshot) around the jag like you roll a cigarette. Your patch should be cut to size. Not to tight and not too loose. So for example a 30cal. The patch for a 30cal PH jag should be like 2.25" x 2.25" square is about the perfect size.

A 6.5mm is like 1.75" x 1.75" square.

This gives you a lot of surface area for the patch to clean and helps keep the tip of the rod centered going down the bore and in conjunction with a rod/bore guide... you get very little etc... if the rod dragging on tops of the lands. I'm assuming your all using a good quality one piece cleaning rod.

If the rod is bending going down the bore or the patch is squealing really bad. It's too tight. If this is the case the patch to some extent cannot absorb the dirt particles on the first few patches etc... and the hard carbon particles will scratch the bore of the barrel.

but.... to loose and the patch isn't doing anything either.

That's why I don't like the jags that you spear with or the loops. The patch doesn't fold back evenly when you push it into the bore of the barrel as well as it can push the tip of the rod off center more/towards one side etc...

Later, Frank

 

[GBMaryland]

If a mild abrasive was something to consider I’d probably use this…

https://www.boretech.com/chameleon-gel-2oz-tube/

Doesn’t really seem to do anything to the bore except get carbon out….

 

[oso1]

CLR works wonders and usually works pretty quick without a lot of scrubbing. Works just as well on your suppressors.

 

[GBMaryland]

CLR works wonders and usually works pretty quick without a lot of scrubbing. Works just as well on your suppressors.

Amazon.com

Works a lot better on suppressors than CLR.

 

[Frank Green]

CLR works wonders and usually works pretty quick without a lot of scrubbing. Works just as well on your suppressors.

Don’t let CLR soak in the barrels for extended periods of time. It will pit and etch the barrels. CM barrels it will show pitting and strip the blued finish off in less than 24 hours. Stainless steel barrels will take longer approx 5 days as a close number.

So be careful in using CLR.

 

[tekmann2377]

Without getting into the endless debates about cleaning frequency or methods, the strongest non-abrasive cleaner I know of for copper more so than carbon is Barnes CR-10. Really smelly stuff but extremely effective for copper removal. Of course abrasives are more powerful than everything else.