For the Love of God, GI Joe and John Wayne.... cleaning and abrasive cleaners

Ok ok, so why no brush in and out? I used to be a one way only pass kind of guy and unscrew the brush after it exists muzzle and so on. However, after watching people like Erik Cortina run his in an out at 100mph, I don’t see why it’s a big deal? Thoughts? I always thought it was a little silly because it’s barrel steel and it’s hard for me to believe that a nylon brush with a brass collar coming out or riding back over the muzzle is going to do anything. Brass is much softer than barrel steel. I mean it flings copper jacketed lead out of it as thousands of feet per second. Is coming backwards over the muzzle really going to do anything?
I use Parker Hale jags with wrapped patches, and also nylon brushes, and I run them in both directions. With the jag/patch, I stop the stroke when the tip of the jag has exited the muzzle, but before the entire wrapped patch has exited (ie. half-way out the muzzle). If you let the whole thing exit, the patch may try to ball-up at the muzzle on the return stroke and be excessively hard to return.
With a brush, you pretty much have to let it completely exit, because if you don't, the bristles have to reverse direction within the bore and that causes difficulty. I let the brush exit, then slowly let it re-center itself in the muzzle on the return stroke before bringing it back to the chamber end. I can't see how you could possibly do any damage to the crown if you are gentle (as above) when you are transiting through it in either direction. I DO, however, always finish the final stroke of either patch or brush on the way OUT of the barrel to push any dislodged debris out with it, and I finish up with dry patches in the same one-way direction to push everything out the muzzle. I have not experienced any premature loss of barrel life using these techniques, and I believe that going in both directions does a better job of scrubbing the bore clean.
 
I use Parker Hale jags with wrapped patches, and also nylon brushes, and I run them in both directions. With the jag/patch, I stop the stroke when the tip of the jag has exited the muzzle, but before the entire wrapped patch has exited (ie. half-way out the muzzle). If you let the whole thing exit, the patch may try to ball-up at the muzzle on the return stroke and be excessively hard to return.
With a brush, you pretty much have to let it completely exit, because if you don't, the bristles have to reverse direction within the bore and that causes difficulty. I let the brush exit, then slowly let it re-center itself in the muzzle on the return stroke before bringing it back to the chamber end. I can't see how you could possibly do any damage to the crown if you are gentle (as above) when you are transiting through it in either direction. I DO, however, always finish the final stroke of either patch or brush on the way OUT of the barrel to push any dislodged debris out with it, and I finish up with dry patches in the same one-way direction to push everything out the muzzle. I have not experienced any premature loss of barrel life using these techniques, and I believe that going in both directions does a better job of scrubbing the bore clean.
I use a muzzle thread protector with a slug (nickel or penny would also do depending on diameter) inside to keep from exiting the muzzle w the PH jags.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tx_Aggie
I use a muzzle thread protector with a slug (nickel or penny would also do depending on diameter) inside to keep from exiting the muzzle w the PH jags.
If you use them, do you ever hit the stopper and dull your spear jags? Maybe you only use them with the Parker Hale type. I use a stopper for almost everything…for example, I stop the base (rod/jag transition) of the spear jags from going over the crown.

I haven’t tried this yet, but assuming you use a bore guide you could insert something like a Bic pen body at the rear. Sandwich it between the rod handle and bore guide. It should stop forward movement.

Currently I use a Pro Shot rod stop collet thing, which can slip a little. I remedy this by slapping some gaffer tape right behind it. I can’t wholeheartedly recommend it, but it is maybe a little more convenient than having an assortment of different length Bic pen-like tubes for the different bore guide/rod combos. It does work better than just tape.

BC36EDD0-7767-4898-8697-85DBCE9811AE.jpeg

Ignore the writing on the tape…I just reused an old piece. Tear it off if you need more of the rod for a different gun.

They make them for their .22 -.26 and .270+ Cal rods. Here’s there .22-.26 one.


Also, Possum Hollow makes a plastic one:
1745355322907.jpeg

I guess it grips better with a sheath of nylon air brake tubing between it and the rod.

I’m sure there are more solid rod clamps out there…they probably mar the rod but who cares? It’s too far back to enter the barrel anyways. I’ve been too lazy to search for them beyond McMaster (didn’t find what I wanted).
 
  • Like
Reactions: WeR0206
If you use them, do you ever hit the stopper and dull your spear jags?
I don’t do this with pointed jags….as I mentioned, this is with PH type jags for occasional scrubbing with abrasives.

I used printed jags for regular solvent/dry patch work and I exit the patches out the muzzle and into an MTM plastic box they make for this purpose. It’s very handy and worth the few buck IMO.

And yes, I always use a bore guide as I don’t want any of that crap in my trigger assembly.

GCPC-C.jpg
 
IF You don't want to bother removing Jag , you can purchase plastic thread screw inserts ,things you drill a hole in your wall tap in plastic insert and put a screw into . Just buy the un-flanged and those come in a few sizes also . Screw your Jag into one end ,pull the Rod back ,does same thing .

View attachment 8669981

View attachment 8669962
What?
 
If you use them, do you ever hit the stopper and dull your spear jags? Maybe you only use them with the Parker Hale type. I use a stopper for almost everything…for example, I stop the base (rod/jag transition) of the spear jags from going over the crown.

I haven’t tried this yet, but assuming you use a bore guide you could insert something like a Bic pen body at the rear. Sandwich it between the rod handle and bore guide. It should stop forward movement.

Currently I use a Pro Shot rod stop collet thing, which can slip a little. I remedy this by slapping some gaffer tape right behind it. I can’t wholeheartedly recommend it, but it is maybe a little more convenient than having an assortment of different length Bic pen-like tubes for the different bore guide/rod combos. It does work better than just tape.

View attachment 8670504
Ignore the writing on the tape…I just reused an old piece. Tear it off if you need more of the rod for a different gun.

They make them for their .22 -.26 and .270+ Cal rods. Here’s there .22-.26 one.


Also, Possum Hollow makes a plastic one:
View attachment 8670502
I guess it grips better with a sheath of nylon air brake tubing between it and the rod.

I’m sure there are more solid rod clamps out there…they probably mar the rod but who cares? It’s too far back to enter the barrel anyways. I’ve been too lazy to search for them beyond McMaster (didn’t find what I wanted).
I use one of the brass muzzle cones to center the rod in the guide. On a rod that didn't have one of the plastic stops I've used a stack of O-rings.
 
  • Like
Reactions: carbonbased