Gunsmithing Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

csdilligaf

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Aug 19, 2012
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Thought I would true up my Remington 700 action and do a barrel in 6.5x47 so I ordered the reamer,range rod and gauge then made up this fixture. Nice and solid bolted directly to a D1-6 flange and brass tipped set screws.
DSC02699.jpg

Barrel came out great but now I'm moving on to the action. The problem is going to be catching the thread on a CNC lathe so it is 1.0725-16. And I dont have any manual lathes. I normally can catch an outside thread with some Z offset but not being able to see where the insert is at I might need to use the Oversize PTG tap with pilot manderal and bushings. Should work good but I know it may be the second best way to do it. Would this route be a waste of time?
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

Its been a few years since I've done any CNC lathe work, but picking up the thread on the ID will not bo much different than I do it on a manual lathe. You will just have to have a smaller size threading bar that provides you some visual, and a flashlight helps see in there. If you can pick up an external then picking up the internal shouldn't be much different just a little more work.

I know it can be done on CNC, because I've seen done a number of times.

Don't go with a tap the lathe is the best way and will provide the best results.
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

I found a small dentist mirror works well for seeing the insert inside there with a flashlight on it. As for Z-offsets, the CNC that I ran at my old job didnt use G-Code so I couldnt tell ya. It had a normal topslide and tool post so I just set the insert like I would on a manual and did the conversational programming to cut the thread.
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

The barrel was a .223 that was my first chamber job for a friend. I sort of used his as a first project before I do mine. His was a $80 barrel that didnt reallly matter. Now I am going to do my action and then the Shilen for mine in 6.5x47. I guess I worded that wrong. His was a Howa 1500 and did not fit in my fixture so I just chambered the barrel.
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jim Kobe</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why in the hell did you do the barrel first? </div></div>

Excellent question!

Do the receiver, THEN fit the barrel threads to it...
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

Un-chambered 6.5mm shilen
DSC02700.jpg

also decided to leave my Remington in .308 alone and ordered one of the actions that brownells has in stock. I still dont like the idea of trying to catch the ID thread on a cnc. On the OD threads I can get a good top view and change the offset. I might just have to find soemeone local a manual lathe that has a D1-6 spindle that I can use my fixture in.
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: csdilligaf</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I still dont like the idea of trying to catch the ID thread on a cnc. On the OD threads I can get a good top view and change the offset. I might just have to find soemeone local a manual lathe that has a D1-6 spindle that I can use my fixture in. </div></div>

It is done all the time. I don't know what lathe you have but Haas as well as numerous others have macros typically named ID thread repair. Here is a vendor showing an action being trued on a Haas.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 308nate</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hey guys made this video of truing actions in the Haas TL1 with the True Bore Alignment System.
Been trying to get to this for quite some time and finally got it going Wooohoo!

<object width="425" height="350"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fjWHcO3Gq_w"></param> <param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param> <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fjWHcO3Gq_w" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="350"> </embed></object>


</div></div>
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

Setup your threading tool as you normally would.

Write your G92 cycle as you normally would.

Set your X offset so that it won't contact the part. (just bang it out .05" or as far as your wear offset will let you in your control)

Set your RPM to where you can watch the tool to see if it aligns with the root of the receiver thread.

Everything depends on how your encoder picks up the start position. Sometimes you get lucky and it's jonny on the spot. Most times it isn't. When this happens all you have to do is adjust your Z wear offset value. It doesn't affect the clock position in spindle rotation, but it will alter the actual point where the tool begins to engage the thread.

An example:

Using a R/H threading tool (meaning the insert cuts on the +X side)

%
O0001(Rem 700 receiver cleanup threading cycle)
G80
T0303(ID THREADER)
M03S750
G0X.9Z.1
G0x.9Z-.75M08
G92X1.0Z.1F.0625
X1.01
X1.02
X1.03
X1.04
X1.05
X1.06
X1.07
X1.0725
G0X.9Z.1
G0X9.0G80(<span style="font-style: italic">Rapid move and canned cycle cancel</span>)
M00(CHECK THREAD FIT AND ADJUST X/Z OFFSET IF REQUIRED AND RESTART)
M30
%

NOTE: If you were to use this actual program you'd want to run it out in space first. On FANUC controls you can go right to a rapid after running a canned turning/threading cycle because each pass concludes with the line of code written above the G92 (the rapid to start position). In this case that'd be catastrophic as the tool starts the thread down inside the bore and cuts out. This is with most slant bed CNC's using the tool insert inverted. (helps manage chips better as it throws them down into the chip bed more efficiently)

This is why you see the G0 move to z.1 at the conclusion of the threading cycle. The tool will be out in space at the end of the threading cycle. It will then rapid back to the start position. The G0 Z.1 move rapids it back to in front of the part so there's no collision.

If your tool starts in front of the part and cuts in a -Z direction then your just going to want to be sure that it will retract to the rapid/start position at the conclusion of the threading cycle. I personally always make it a point to enter it anyway. If the machine ever goofed and tried to rapid move in X with the tool down inside the part it'd be a disaster.



As for timing the thread: +Z "retards" the start point of the thread. -z "advances it". It's backwards if your starting down inside the hole though.

+X (if using a R/H tool) moves into the part, -X moves away.

Hope this helps and wasn't too confusing.

Good luck

C.

PS: Here's a hint. It IS possible to string a series of threading cycles together. Doing so opens the door to big things. . .


PSS, here's a better hint. DITCH the lathe and set it up in the VMC. Doors will open, the heavens will fill your ears with angels singing, and you'll be able to do some REALLY cool chit that just aren't possible in a lathe.

Thread milling ROCKS!
 
Re: Nice lathe fixture but ran into problem

rlr....I looked at the advanced features in the book and did not see anything listed other than the custom threads that I use all the time for acme and whitworth. Have you seen rethreading on a prototrak? Since it is conversational the G code cant really help me right now but the same principals apply to catching the thread by useing Z offset. I can do it in Gibbscam and post it but find the conversational will do the same thing for threading. On an external thread I can put a white sheet under the tool and from the top get a good idea of when the insert lines up correctly and use a Z offset. I'll just try the same on an internal and be carefull.