Night Vision Night vision tips and tricks.

Delta4-3

Gunny Sergeant
Commercial Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
May 21, 2013
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Arkansas
I've seen several questions on here by people wanting to figure out how to get the most out of their night vision, i.e. How to focus on the fly with your hands full of bang stick. The grammar will most likely be poor because I'm on an iPad. I would like to encourage others to post up as well, because I fully intend to glean knowledge here.

Don't go screaming opsec to show everyone how high speed you are, please, I think that is universally annoying. I'm not posting info derived from military instruction, just little things I've learned myself from using night vision in the military and as an enthusiast.


1. A lot of people struggle with focusing head mounted night vision while on the fly. Set your focus to match your surroundings, before you head out on a hunt or mission. For wooded terrain, I focus at 8-10 yards to catch those pesky branches BEFORE they smack me in the lips. In urban environments I prefer 20-40 yards, depending on how constricted the structures are and the tactics of the locals. For desert patrolling, I set my focus around 100 yards.

Now there's two ways to effectively tweak your focus on the fly, without touching your NODs.
Where I see. Most people with focal issues are trying to focus on the image within the device. Don't do that, focus through the tube at the object you are wanting to clarify. It's really simple, but it works.

Another method that only works with really good night vision is to cut a dime sized hole on a Butler Creek flip up cap and place it on the objective end after you preset the focus. It only works with good lum, so if it gets too dark, flip that bad boy up and drive on..

Always have a tie down on your NODs (or other sensitive items for that matter). There is nothing like dropping a fragile $3k+ piece of gear from 6 feet up while trying to mount or dismount the unit. I prefer small bungees, then crimp the hook closed on the device so it stays with the unit. Gutted 550 (para) cord works good too, with tiny little carabiners. However it is not my primary choice as it is distracting when it starts to feel like a spider on your face. So if you use it, put some 550 loops on the helmet to run it through so it doesn't dangle or snag.

I generally don't use the rubber eyecups for head mounted NV for two reasons.
1. In hot or cold weather it causes the lens to fog up, which is a no-go for me.
2. Glance down and memorize the terrain you are transversing in 20ft increments, then look back up and scan your surroundings for threats. Otherwise, you will loose your situational awareness and find yourself staring at the ground as you move. In urban environments, where there is typically plenty of light, I look under the nods, without moving my head. It gives you a break from the green burning, but you can't do that with an eyecups.

Foregoing eyecups also allows you to constantly look out the sides, top, and bottom when the surroundings permit, which also increases situational awareness, and decreases eye strain during extended movements.

When hunting pigs and predators that have been heavily hunted with night vision, they sometimes scatter when you hit them with IR light. To avoid this, once they are located, turn on your lum with the weapon pointed at an angle in the air above them and bring it down on target. It seems to keep them from spooking too early.


Don't get tunnel vision! Many people are drawn in by the green glow, and forget to use there other senses. This is a serious blow to your situational awareness. Infect, when using NODs, rely on your other senses more than you normally would without them. This could save your life, or the life of a comrade in a tactical environment, and will make you much more successful when hunting.

Don't mount Gen 2+ or Gen 3 nightvisoin behind an ACOG. The reticule is just too bright.

I'll post several more in a minute, this thing is killing my noggin, kind of like a skull crusher mount!
 
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I'd be interested to see some tips from our knowledgable vendors. Most of you already know what's posted above, but I'll add some more to it anyway.
 
A big 10/4 on the safety strap for NV gear. My first trip out with a new helmet and nvbd's I was moving to my night scope, flipping Binos up and pushed the release button that dropped the nvbd's , saved by a safety cord. They dangled while we shot at pigs. The other advise I was given is to keep batteries removed at all times when equipment is not in use.
 
Keep the variable gain (brightness) down as low as possible while maintaining effectiveness of the NVGs. This will help preserve your eye's natural night vision for those times when you have to remove your NVGs as well as reduce the amount of green light shining on your exposed face when eyecups aren't being used. Only an issue when your targets are also hunting you.
 
Keep the variable gain (brightness) down as low as possible while maintaining effectiveness of the NVGs. This will help preserve your eye's natural night vision for those times when you have to remove your NVGs as well as reduce the amount of green light shining on your exposed face when eyecups aren't being used. Only an issue when your targets are also hunting you.

Good tip, thanks for adding! One that I should have put at the top and forgot: use less Copenhagen than you normally would when wearing NVG's on a helmet. The strap tries to mash it out.
 
If powerful IR lasers are out of your budget, there is another way:
Green lasers actually start out as an infrared beam, but get split by a crystal. So, take a green laser and put an IR filter on it. Bam, instant ir laser.
 
One that I should have put at the top and forgot: use less Copenhagen than you normally would when wearing NVG's on a helmet. The strap tries to mash it out.

Ditto on this one! I've taken to using, ahem, pouches, when chasing piggies with helmet straps. Figure I lose 20% of my accumulated man points for using pouches, but more than make up the deficit while also wearing a gen 3 NV helmet.

As for the IR spooking piggies, my problem was the IR spooking deer who then spook the piggies. I bought a $9 eBay /hong kong 850nm 30mm IR pass filter. After taking the filter material out of the screw-on housing, I was able to put the filter material under the clear lens on my Streamlight TL-2 IR and my TL1-IR illuminators. Really cuts down on the visible red glow (and deer spooking) with minimal (or none) reduction in illumination.

Since you brought up Bulter Creek caps in the OP, I was trying to figure out a way to put an IR filter on a Streamlight SuperTac IR. I was able to combine a #39 Butler Creek flip objective (with the solid, all black opaque cover) with a Butler Creek #10 Blizzard cap (see through cover) to make a cap that fits on the SuperTac. Then, I got a 850nm 52 mm IR pass filter and replaced the clear lens of the Blizzard. Now works like the TLR-2 IR and TL-1 IR with filters. Doesn't look as clean aesthetically, but for the life of me I couldn't get the clear lens out of the head of the SuperTac, even after baking the damn thing for an hour at 300 degrees.

Finally, don't know if this is a tip or trick or not, but I rarely see anyone mention running a Streamlight Sidewinder Compact as a helmet light. I've got one on each of my helmet rigs and am impressed with them every time out. Variable IR output is nice.

I really want some one to chime in here and give instructions on 1) how to wire a resistor of some kind into a pressure pad switch for IR lasers that will let you tone down the output of .7mw IR lasers or 2) give instructions on how to put a removable neutral density filter on the two least-expensive IR lasers, the LaserMax UNI-IR and the Crimson Trace Rail Master IR.


ETA: One thing I left out. On the IR lasers, you can run a red laser IF you get a 30.5 mm, 720nm IR (pass) filter from Hong Kong off eBay. Even if you don't use a red laser, it's a $12 insurance policy for the front lens and the tube. It will cut down quite a bit of visible light getting through to the tube, and will enable you to use a non-NV red dot. Can't believe I forgot to list this first, since I consider it to be the Most important, not to mention cheapest and easiest, tip/ trick in the PVS14 world that I know of.
 
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^^^^
oh wow, pouches. That does down the man points a bit. I just stick a pinch inder my tounge ;)
I guess it's ok if your rocking gen three and there are no females present that are dipping the real thing, because that could get embarrassing...
 
ncorry, good info. I have had trouble with the glow of my Super Tac also.
So you bought a #39 cover and replaced the cap with one from a #10 Blizzard?
How do you remove-replace the lens?
Can you give a link to the ir filter you bought?
Does this reduce the output of the Super Tac?

Thanks
 
Not really a tip, and not high speed, but I attach a pistol mag pouch, or double pouch on the back of my helmet, and put loaded Glock 19 mags in them for a counterweight. It's more useful to me than weight with no secondary purpose. However, I'm sure the Arfcommers would tell you it's untactical as all get out because you can't do a super speedy mag change with them there. Then again, most of them have never been in a "tactical" situation. I prefer gear that fills multiple roles. I've never had to do a speedy mag change when hunting either though.
 
the pouch I have as a counter weight is full of AA's and 123"s

Also a good idea, that is! I use rechargeables for my night vision and related equipment to keep the cost down, since cr123's are so freakin expensive. Beware cheap rechargeables such as Ultrafire though, as they tend to overcharge to 4+ volts, which will trash some gear, just ask me how I know. I use Tenergy rechargeables because they are cheap, hold a good charge, and don't overcharge. I also use some of the common name brands.
 
Awsome thread and good advice !

Have a plane and be organized, learn from mistakes and think out the possible outcomes so you may react in real time not the next time. When stalking to optimum engagement rang on Hogs with multiple shooters go in single file line to reduce sight signature. When range is reached fan left and right to form a line.dont be greedy engage your hog and not others out of your sweep zone when multiple shooters are involved its gets fast and safty is king over any other.
Night Vision does not give one total domination at night exept on paper or steel live targets take a diffrent aproach, Stop look listen and smell.
 
On hogs my brother and I will start on the left and right and work in with a count down for the first shot if the herd runs to my side I stay on the lead hog and he stays on the tailing and visa versa keeps the arguments down on who killed what and if we by chance get on the same hog you have to call your shot placement, LOL
 
Not really a tip, and not high speed, but I attach a pistol mag pouch, or double pouch on the back of my helmet, and put loaded Glock 19 mags in them for a counterweight. It's more useful to me than weight with no secondary purpose. However, I'm sure the Arfcommers would tell you it's untactical as all get out because you can't do a super speedy mag change with them there. Then again, most of them have never been in a "tactical" situation. I prefer gear that fills multiple roles. I've never had to do a speedy mag change when hunting either though.

I like it. Thanks!