Suppressors Nomad Ti and heat
- Thread starter owtlaw
- Start date
And expand the mount inside the can? Not really conducive to loosening things in this scenario.Why would you heat the can instead of the mount???
@Mageever would be the best one to give you some insight on whether or not you've damaged your can.
Op you probably used more heat than you needed to but I’ve seen those cans with all sorts of colors in the blast baffle are from getting them hot while firing and they’re still going.
To keep the adapter from unthreading from the back of the can when it’s not supposed to.
Out of the Nomad Ti manual.
I'd call Dead Air, but their recommendations are contradictory. The primary recommendation is grease, except that they recommend Vibra-tite for "average conditions." WTF?
I use a bit of moly grease and tighten with the spanner wrenches as tightly as I can with a single hand on my Nomad. Mag or a bit more over the course of a 3 minute stage is the typical duty cycle. Not glowing hot, but hot enough to melt a poly-tarp (ask me how I know). No issues with loosening of the body from the mount.
He said he was trying to heat up the thread locker he used... Therefore, the heat shouldn't have gotten anywhere near that hot and the flame anywhere near the outside of the can. He should have heated it up with the flame on the inside of the mount/suppressor by sticking the nozzle of the torch up inside the mount from the back, and slowly rotated the can around to evenly heat the area. It also would be the most direct heat, as the threads are just directly on the other side of the inside of the mount wall.
I had to use a small dab of Rocksett to keep my KeyMo tightened into my Nomad-LT. This was per Mike Pappas' recommendation. I wanted to ask before doing, and risk damaging my can. He said it was perfectly fine.
I highly recommend Rocksett over thread-locker for anything firearm/suppressor related. It's much easier to break loose and clean up. And it doesn't get goopy and nasty like thread locker does.
Those cans are paper thin in the back where the modular mounting threads are. When you have a nut seized on a bolt do you heat the nut or the bolt?
You aren't understanding what I'm saying... You heat the inside walls of the KeyMo unit, on the backside of where the threads are. This way you don't directly put heat on the can, at all.
Honestly, it would have taken longer, but the OP would have been better off using an industrial heat gun to heat the unit up to liquify the thread locker. It appears he used an open-flame torch.
This is why I use Rocksett... It's heat impervious, so you don't heat anything up for removal. You need to lock something down, use a small dab, let it cure. Then it just either breaks free when you put enough torque on it, or you can soak it in warm water and let it eventually breakdown over a period of time, and then you can break it free.
Then why does everyone recommend that you don't get a Titanium can above 800º F, or else it gets fragile and will crack?
Answer my question.
I get what you’re saying. Heat helps release the loctite. Heat also makes metal expand. Heating the adapter inside the can that you’re NOT heating can actually make it tighter and seize or gall the threads. Heat the can, loctite loosens up, can swells a bit and comes off easier.
Heat transfers rapidly through Titanium. It does not hold heat very well, and it will shrink-back rapidly, which is what makes the alloy structure fragile. Heating the mount will still heat the can, and vise-versa. By the time you heat the mount and locktite underneath to the functional point you need it to be, you have already potentially compromised the alloy structure of the titanium. This is why I say it's best to heat the mounts, and not the cans themselves. This is why I said if you're going to heat the Titanium can, use something like a good commercial heat gun that doesn't have an open flame, regulates its output, and will not get hot enough to damage the can. It might take longer to heat up, and get the loc-tite sticky again, but it will work better than a torch.
Then why does everyone recommend that you don't get a Titanium can above 800º F, or else it gets fragile and will crack?
Not "everyone" has this recommendation/restriction. There are at least three current suppressor companies which come to mind that offer full-auto rated titanium suppressors and I don't see any temperature limits posted for these products.
What specific material characteristic of titanium is appropriate for suppressor construction at 799°F but not at 801°F?
That's just a safe number that is recommended by suppressor companies... How desperate are you to be right? Because you're 0-2 right now.
Also, most companies that offer F/A rated titanium cans are really selling hybrid suppressors, with a 17-4 SS, inconel, or stellite blast baffle or first couple baffles, then the rest are titanium.
If you don't understand why Titanium is brittle and fragile, then maybe you should do some metallurgical study...
If you don't understand my explanation, then maybe this will help...
Why is titanium so brittle?
Answer (1 of 7): First things first- a material is considered brittle if movement of dislocations is hindered in any way. Dislocation motion means plastic deformation; lack of dislocation motion means brittle failure. 1. Ti is embrittled when exposed to Oxygen, Nitrogen or Hydrogen (basically yo...
That's just a safe number that is recommended by suppressor companies... How desperate are you to be right? Because you're 0-2 right now.
Also, most companies that offer F/A rated titanium cans are really selling hybrid suppressors, with a 17-4 SS, inconel, or stellite blast baffle or first couple baffles, then the rest are titanium.
If you don't understand why Titanium is brittle and fragile, then maybe you should do some metallurgical study...
If you don't understand my explanation, then maybe this will help...
Why is titanium so brittle?
Answer (1 of 7): First things first- a material is considered brittle if movement of dislocations is hindered in any way. Dislocation motion means plastic deformation; lack of dislocation motion means brittle failure. 1. Ti is embrittled when exposed to Oxygen, Nitrogen or Hydrogen (basically yo...www.quora.com
Normally I wouldn't recommend using Quora as a citation, but since you provided the link, let's take a scroll:
Titanium is used for stuff like suspension springs and turbine compressor blades and IC engine valves (both intake and exhaust) and connecting rods and F-14 wing boxes and implanted artificial joints, so maybe we're shouldn't be too hasty to call it "brittle" or "fragile" or suggest that it is poorly-suited to high temperatures.
It is expensive, and difficult to process, and completely intolerant of fools. These attributes should not be confused with other blanket statements that get repeated by those who don't know any better.
I've heard that above 800F, titanium turns into melted butter, but like a particularly fragile and brittle form that is not at all suited for use on popcorn. Complex stuff, but easy to understand on the internet.
I mean...... how do you come back from this? Simply reply with what is a cute username?
It's easy... When you name off things that are thick and solid and cold-forged titanium, versus an extremely thin-wall tube and baffles that are very susceptible to heat differentiations, it's very easy to sound like you're ahead... But when you aren't mentioning anything relevant to the conversation, just to try to be right, it's pretty easy to look like you MIGHT know what you're talking about.
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