I was about to ask if the OP has tried any penetrating oil...and a heat gun to drive it in. Took a while but it worked getting the forend hardware off of a 60 y.o. Win Mod 12.
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Suppressor mount stuck- good strap wrench suggestion ?
- Thread starter BuildingConceptsllc
- Start date
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Yeah I may try that once i get a decent spanner wrench. The one that came with the Nomad just isn't rigid enough to do it , but I ordered one from the guys posted ITT with that vise block thing so hopefully that will do the trick. I will remember about setting them up on the floor though
I did buy the right tool. The spanner wrench that came with the can sucks. Also, the new mount does have a taper in front of the threads, so yes it should make a difference, that's the idea anyway. What other proper tools did you suggest? I haven't had a chance to soak it yet, I'm closing a house so it's another long day today but I will try soaking it. I have to have a spanner that won't just bend on me to do anything else.
You can buy better spanner wrenches, I doubt what DA is selling is very good stuff. Harbor freight chinesium is going to be a step up. I would soak it first for several hours and let the solvent penetrate and try again with what you’ve got. Being carbon locked can easily double (or more) the effort required to remove it. If that doesn’t work buy better spanner wrenches.
Worst case scenario you can make a wood bushing to put in a vise to grip the can well and use an air chisel on the notches of the mount. I would do that as an absolute last resort though because you risk it slipping and damaging the can as well.
Worst case scenario you can make a wood bushing to put in a vise to grip the can well and use an air chisel on the notches of the mount. I would do that as an absolute last resort though because you risk it slipping and damaging the can as well.
I guess you've missed a few post ITT but I already have a quality spanner wrench as well as a vise block made for the Nomad suppressor coming and will be here Saturday. I would prefer to have the right tools no matter if I did get it off before then. That outfit dude posted earlier ITT is pretty cool and makes suppressor tools for the specific model of can.
I will go ahead and start soaking it tonight though. What would be the absolute best thing to soak with? I have Kroll and several other things including CLR. Can't remember of clr is an issue for titanium or not though???
Just use a good carbon solvent. I wouldn’t use CLR because that YHM mount probably isn’t titanium and that could cause more problems. Kroil should work but so will boretech C4, Hoppes, or most others. I really like regular hoppes 9 for carbon. Just keep it wet for several hours before you try to remove it and let it do its thing. Stand the can muzzle up so gravity will let it work down into the threads.
Yep, he's great. I also heated the can and "quenched" it in water quickly and that helped. And I agree, the Dead Air spanner wrenches suck, it's like they're made of pot metal. I sent my can back in with the wrenches after the mount wouldn't come off, hoping they'd send new ones back. Nope.
Given the customer service issues from dead air of the last year or so, I'd hate to have to send anything to them. I love the Nomad and I now have 3 different versions and they sound better than anything else I have or have heard, but I won't be getting any others or any dead air anything because of their CS.
Well I'll be..... you were right man. I ran it in my ultrasonic cleaner as shown above for 3 cycles of 90 min with heat.
I just took it out and poured out the hoppes. I put the mount in the vise and turned the can with my hands and got it to move, then was able to unscrew it. Thank you! I'm still glad to have the correct Nomad tools coming since I have 3 of them, but I'm very happy to have that mount out of my can!!!
Carbon is quite an impressive thread locker. Hoppes is a quite impressive carbon dissolver… and cologne.
Glad you got it out without damaging your can.
- Nov 3, 2010
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It didn't have any antisieze on it either so that for sure didn't help
Huh, didn’t think about this before, but maybe I should Hoppe’s my suppressor to remove carbon. Hmmmm…
Get some of the purple ceramic kind for brakes. It works wonders for suppressor mounts. You can still carbon lock it but it will usually only push in the first thread which greatly reduces the chance of needing to soak it.
That might be good to try, but it will take a long soak to get carbon like that out. Might work well in an ultrasonic.
Yeah, usually I use CLR and sometimes brake cleaner. But I’ve got a stubborn case with a user serviceable can (Banish 30) that I cannot get apart despite using nickel Permatex anti-seize.
Either I treat it let a sealed can, send it in for disassembly, try a CLR+recirculating pump, or that new Breakthrough Clean chemical. Or Hoppe’s lol.
CLE will eat a pump and you’ve gotta be careful about all the parts being titanium. Any steel it will fuck up.
The new stuff is supposed to work really good but I haven’t tried it. I’m wait for a Huxwrx flow 556K to get approved and it’s really the only way to clean them and people say it works.
Hoppes is a lot cheaper though. Worst case scenario it doesn’t work and you just flush it out with water and try something else.
No worries. Here’s a post by someone who cleans suppressors at TBAC. He links to the pump he uses at work.
Suppressors - Best way to clean heavily fouled TBAC can ?
I tend to push things till they push back. Lack of cleaning on a Tbac 338 ultra bit in a big way at a gas gun match. Had chunks of carbon fouling action causing malfunctions. Can has north of 5000 rounds of 6cm 6.5cm and 556. Maybe more Have a ultrasonic cleaner and the boretech cleaner...
www.snipershide.com
The best thing is to coat the inside of the suppressor with silicone oil or Dot5 brake fluid before you ever shoot it. That stuff works awesome!!! I've done it on many cans now and it will let you just wipe the carbon off. It does smoke like a SOB the first few shots so don't breath that I'm but after that it's money.
The ultrasonic works really well to get that stubborn carbon out. I usually have to run many cycles with heat. I just use water in the tank then the can inside of a jar or bag or Pyrex dish ect , which is filled with water around the suppressor then whatever you choose to use as a cleaner inside the can. Hoppes with the ultrasonic works pretty good but CLR works a ton better IF that's an option for your can. If not then simple green works good too.
The ultrasonic works really well to get that stubborn carbon out. I usually have to run many cycles with heat. I just use water in the tank then the can inside of a jar or bag or Pyrex dish ect , which is filled with water around the suppressor then whatever you choose to use as a cleaner inside the can. Hoppes with the ultrasonic works pretty good but CLR works a ton better IF that's an option for your can. If not then simple green works good too.
Proceed with caution, Will Roberson. See:
Suppressors - Suppressor recommendations
Looking to buy my first can for my .223. I would like something serviceable that I can also run on my .22lr. My only real priority is noise suppression. Weight and size does not matter. This is a varmint gun that is bench rested, shoots 5-10 rounds, then sits for 10 minutes or so. What would be...
www.snipershide.com
Yeah I'm aware, but it's not like I'm trapped with the smoke or something and it completely stops after a few rounds then never again so, not a big concern. It blows away and my can is super easy to clean. It's great. I would advise being aware of it and making sure not to breath it ect those first few shots after you do itProceed with caution, Will Roberson. See:
Suppressors - Suppressor recommendations
Looking to buy my first can for my .223. I would like something serviceable that I can also run on my .22lr. My only real priority is noise suppression. Weight and size does not matter. This is a varmint gun that is bench rested, shoots 5-10 rounds, then sits for 10 minutes or so. What would be...
Definitely a “wind at your back, hold your breath, and no one else around” sort of deal.
I didn't read the while thread but I run a thunderbeast ultra 9 with the area 419 brake inside and there attachments. I can never get the brake that screws to the can out. Thunderbeast actually cleaned my supressor and got it out the first time but the last time I just filled the suppressor plum full of boretech carbon remover for a few days then put the can in a vise. The area 419 brake has its own wrench so I put it on and give it a good whack and came loose. Might give that a try
Yeah I poured hoppes in it and put it in the ultrasonic and got it at the suggestion of a few members. It worked
Glad it worked out. Boretech carbon cleaner is really good shoot I cleaned my suppressor with It took a week but it's great on carbon and was satisfied with results. I hate shipping the suppressor anymore
LH threads mean you're not supposed to torque the shit out of it onto your barrel. As you shoot, it tightens... That's the nature of LH threads vs. standard RH threads. RH threads are why your DT mounted cans loosen up while shooting. LH threads, just snug it up, and shoot it. And if you need to, use some C5-A copper anti-seize on the mount and muzzle device threads to keep it from carbon-locking.
I’ve always wondered about LH suppressor threads on a 50bmg or 338.
Something tells me that might not be a great idea, but I’ve been wrong before.
The tools @hlee posted are the correct TYPE of wrench to use.....but those are for shit, you need REAL spanner wrenches.
If you wuz close to me I have some very nice Snap-on (strap-on?) ones I would let you use.
They be like these and shit...
shop.snapon.com
As you can see, not cheap and backordered to boot.
The only decent strap type wrench made anywhere by any tool maker is the Klein aluminum with the reddish strap, they are bomb proof and I would guarantee that shit is coming apart if you use one of those.
Yea I have one of those too.......looks just like this....
www.kleintools.com
Ya ain't gonna have much luck with anything else if it looks like what I think it looks like.
Heat it till it's good and smoky (about 1200F) and then immediately hit it with PBlaster (be careful of flash flame) and let it sit till it's completely cooled down.....heat it back to about 500f and only then try again.
About the best I gots fer ya.
If you wuz close to me I have some very nice Snap-on (strap-on?) ones I would let you use.
They be like these and shit...
Snap-on Store
As you can see, not cheap and backordered to boot.
The only decent strap type wrench made anywhere by any tool maker is the Klein aluminum with the reddish strap, they are bomb proof and I would guarantee that shit is coming apart if you use one of those.
Yea I have one of those too.......looks just like this....
Grip-It® Strap Wrench, 1-1/2 to 5-Inch, 12-Inch L - S-12H | Klein Tools
The Klein Tools 12-Inch Grip-It Strap Wrench is completely adjustable for tight-quarters tasks on polished, PVC and glass pipes, fittings, filters, conduit and shafts. The strap is urethane-coated to resist scratching or damaging surfaces and is attached to a lightweight I-beam handle. Also...
Ya ain't gonna have much luck with anything else if it looks like what I think it looks like.
Heat it till it's good and smoky (about 1200F) and then immediately hit it with PBlaster (be careful of flash flame) and let it sit till it's completely cooled down.....heat it back to about 500f and only then try again.
About the best I gots fer ya.
That’s just where the carbon was built up along the adaptor face, it dissolves and chips away easy enough but that wall of carbon is what’s gluing the adaptor on
The Area 419 brake that threads into your suppressor is RH threads. Only the brake end that threads onto your adapter that’s on your barrel is LH threaded. Mine was stuck from carbon build up.
Yes, but the threads that mount the mount to the muzzle device are not. The odds of your mount coming loose are much slimmer than your muzzle threads coming loose. Use Rocksett on both the mount and muzzle device, and they will each stay in place, the the only non-adhesive connection point is the device’s LH thread setup between the mount & muzzle device.
