NOOB needing help on reloading equipment

[Snuby642]

I test the Dillon powder throw every time. It stays + / - 0.1gr so as good as I have for digital scale.

It's the extra brass processing that keeps the single stage running.

And quick change dies on the lee for small tasks or processing range brass.

 

[Nimothy]

A Dillion 550, a set of dies and a charge master light will put you ahead of the curve No matter what. I wish someone would have given me that advice a long time ago. Then if you want a fancy primer seater or want to upgrade to a floating tool head you can. 550’s rarely come up for sale used, that should tell you something. I’ve toyed with getting one and just using my single stage mec marksman for pulling Bullets and weird random stuffs. I’d use my lnl ap for depriming and all bulk type ammo the Dillion for all precision loaded rounds. It is the only progressive marketed towards that, that I know of.

 

[Nimothy]

I test the Dillon powder throw every time. It stays + / - 0.1gr so as good as I have for digital scale.

It's the extra brass processing that keeps the single stage running.

And quick change dies on the lee for small tasks or processing range brass.

Why don’t you process on your Dillon? Progressive presses seem to shine there for me.

 

[Snuby642]

My rifle brass prep includes,
Deprime.
Tumble.
Work primer pockets.
Size.
Tumble.
Trim and champher.
Quick tumble.

This is all rifle brass, virgin, first fired or range brass.

Nothing touches a sizing die till clean and a slight wax buildup for lubricity and corrosion protection including primer pocket.

I have the time.

 

[JTinMO]

haha. my process too. I have nothing but time on my hands. I swear I clean my brass 3 times before ever dropping powder in it.

 

[db2000]

You'll need a trimmer before long.
I use a Lyman carbide bit trimmer with a drill motor adapter axle. It makes short work of trimming and is consistent to 2-3 thousands inch. I like the Hornady electric case prep duo, again making light work of otherwise tedious task.

Amazon.com : Lyman Universal Trimmer with 9 Pilot Multi-Pack Trims .17 Cal to .458 Cal : Lyman Case Trimmer : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Lyman Universal Trimmer with 9 Pilot Multi-Pack Trims .17 Cal to .458 Cal : Lyman Case Trimmer : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com : Lyman Universal Trimmer Power Adapter : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Lyman Universal Trimmer Power Adapter : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com : Hornady 050180 Case Prep Duo Case Prep Tool : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Hornady 050180 Case Prep Duo Case Prep Tool : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

[Cerwinski]

Be warned it's quite a deep rabbit hole. I started ten years ago with a Lee Anniversary kit doing pistol rounds and now I have so much stuff I forget exactly what I have lol. I can recommend the Lee Classic Turret without reservation though. Makes super accurate rifle ammo and if I want I can crank out 200 plus an hour pistol/rifle plinking ammo without breaking a sweat. I don't see myself ever needing a progressive press. A good scale and measuring tools along with a book or two are IMO must haves. Good luck. It's a very rewarding hobby.

 

[Nimothy]

To the op check eBay. There are a ton of used reloading presses. I just got another lee hand press for 25$ shipped

 

[Rlandry]

Single Stage - RCBS Rock Chucker

Turret - Redding T-7

Progressive - Dillon 650

Just my personal choices.

Invest in a quality set of calipers such as Mitutoyo or Starrett. They won't be cheap, but will last a lifetime. Nothing will cost you more time and anxiety that a measuring device you can't trust. Stay away from fleabay with these. Even the stuff that is sold as "Name brand" can easily be a Chinese knock-off. I ran into that with a set of Mitutoyo calipers. Definitely stay away from the $29 specials of any brand.

 

[STLSteve86]

Why do you want to reload ? What are your goals?

There is a lot I want to say but I’ll keep it simple. Choose 1 caliber to start with until you are proficient. A Rcbs or any single stage is where you want to start. It’s not something you want to rush learning how to do it. Watch a lot of YouTube on reloading. You will have to decide what works for you and what you like.


Oh and carry factory defense ammo that shoots good in your carry gun.

 

[mogfan]

Pistol is much faster on a 550. And honestly all my .223 is plinking rounds, so use the Dillon powder thrower and have no issues with that level of accuracy. For all my bigger rifle calibers I use the turret to resize, then use a Chargemaster and loading block for powder charge, then seat with the Turret press. All in batches. Basically high volume goes on the 550. Small volume on the Turret. And I still do have an extra turret head setup with pistol dies for the T-7 as well. I haven't used it in a long time but it's there if I want to go slow or work up a small batch.

And on the 550 I have two toolheads setup, each with their own powder drop. Changing over from one to the other is less than 10 minutes even with quality checks before rolling full speed.

I do have a flow thru powder drop die for the Dillon, for which I could load powder charges using a funnel, just haven't really had a need to go there yet. I'm not loading 200+ rounds at any time of .308 or 6.5.

IMP best way to start is RCBS rock chucker for rifle - I still use these for most of my rifle work but also have two Dillon 550's and a Star for quantity pistol or rifle work

 

[hengehold]

If you get a kit, do it knowing you'll likely replace most items in the kit at some point. Still not a bad way to go IMHO. RCBS rockchucker is a good press that you'll likely find a use for forever, even if you upgrade down the road.

You'll need measuring tools and brass prep tools. Good calipers, I prefer dial. Hornady or Sinclair measuring tools for cart headspace and length from head to ojive. Lyman makes good hand brass prep tools at a good price. Berrys bullets makes a good vib tumbler at a decent price. A few companies sells the berrys with their label on it.

this is really good advice.

I started with a rock checker kit about 20 years ago and the only thing that I still use out of the kit today is the press itself. However, the kit did do a good job of allowing me to get started via the cheapest route possible and gain some experience and preferences. That base of experience and preferences allowed me to make educated and justified decisions later on when I decided to upgrade various tools and equipment.

my advice is get a kit (I think most reloading press companies sell similar kits) and use it until you realize that some of the tools are limiting you from accomplishing something you want to accomplish. For example, I want to create more rounds per hour, Or I want to make ammo that is more precise, etc.

good luck.

 

[TreyMeTrey]

Im just wanting to get into reloading myself.Ive bought several books and couple digital scales.Not so much for reloading.But one was for Buffers & buffer Weights and the other was intended for reloading.Not used it yet.
My comment is Ive not seen Dillon mentioned .Like a Dillon 650 or 750. whats the draw back on those? Expense ? I looked at them online and I think it was about $2K for one I wanted to reload 6.5 Creedmoor and smaller..Andy Comments or suggestions

 

[Gustav7]

Im just wanting to get into reloading myself.Ive bought several books and couple digital scales.Not so much for reloading.But one was for Buffers & buffer Weights and the other was intended for reloading.Not used it yet.
My comment is Ive not seen Dillon mentioned .Like a Dillon 650 or 750. whats the draw back on those? Expense ? I looked at them online and I think it was about $2K for one I wanted to reload 6.5 Creedmoor and smaller..Andy Comments or suggestions

1.) The reason 650's haven't really been mentioned is they're NOT a beginners press. COULD you learn on a 650? of course you can, don't let anyone tell you you can't. Are you going to mess up 10x more than if you had experience? yes lol.

2.) People get into reloading, and find out its not really for them, and end up just buying bulk ammo...which is completely fine, but its easier to buy and sell a $300 press kit, than it is a 2k kit. In fact...I'm sure theres someone out there that bought a 650 as their first press...got completely overwhelmed, never really learned how to do everything..and quit reloading. Its like buying a 1000cc Racebike as your first motorcycle...its highly inefficient, a waste of money, and possibly dangerous.

3.) 650's are meant to put out some serious rounds, as well as the ability to change calibers quickly. If you're only loading 2 calibers, a turret press will hold all of your dies as is, and you don't need anything more. Alot of people on this thread, including myself, recommended the 550 if the OP wanted a progressive. Its cheaper, easier to use, manually indexes, has less to worry about, etc. But honestly, a turret press is far more reasonable for the OP in his given situation.

It makes a lot more sense to buy a turret press and spend half the money you would on a 550 and 1/3 the money you would on a 650. you can learn the basics, reload faster than you would on a single stage, and if you really like reloading, and end up loading more calibers, you can get a progressive. Just my opinion though.

 

[Mike_Honcho]

FWIW I've loaded well over a 150k on a 550....9mm / .45 ACP / 10mm / 5.56 / .308 / .300WM....@ 5 yrs ago I picked up the larger RCBS (Big Chucker?) unit mainly due to needing to use a Willis Collet Die.

All pistol reloading functions are done on the 550.
Rifle powdering is with a cheepy Lee hopper + RCBS trickler + beam scale
Rifle priming is with an RCBS hand prime unit
RCSBS carbide pistol dies
Redding Comp rifle dies
Willis Collet die
Old Gracey trimmer (on my 3rd motor and 2nd replacement Giruard carbide blade)
Dillion Swager
Bench Source annealing unit
Precision Shooting Magazine's Reloading Guide (you gotta be old to know that one)

Not saying it is all the best - just saying I've made a lot a 'pretty good' ammo

A used 550 (+ Dillion's lifetime no BS warranty) and some decent dies will go a long way for you. A properly set up 550 will make straight ammo, and can be easily used like a single stage when desired.

Good luck

 

[NCHillbilly]

I u

Forgot to ask this, digital or ballance scale for powder weighing ? Pros and cons of both ect.

I use both balance beams and electronic. With the balance beam, you have no electronics to go bad, can be quicker when using flake and ball powder, especially with light charges, and you can use it to verify the calibration of an electronic measure. I like the electronic for throwing charges of stick powder, it's quicker and it is more consistent than trying to throw charges of stick powder with a manual powder measure. You can also set the electronic to throw charges freeing up your hands to do other things while a charge is being thrown. If you have to choose just one, the balance beam will do, and it's much cheaper. Just always check your calibration before you start.

 

[Hardshot]

Thank you for ur post, I am just trying to get my moneys worth, if i wind up going over 500 witch i see i will no matter what then that is fine, just lokking to start out on a good platform and grow from there. I am not and dont believe in one companies product (fanboy), every company makes good and not so good products. Basically I was lost in the weeds untill i got all this wonderful advice and help.

 

[Hardshot]

This is great that you are seeking advice from Thousands of years of experience from members on this site . Trust me after 45 years reloading you will be buying better equipment for years unless you give up shooting .
Yes I remember been were you are trying to get the best value and equipment you can . An example I used a Lyman beam scale for years until I noticed it sticking one day . Cleaning was something I never thought off. Now I have advanced all the way up to a FX -120 and all auto . So it never stops until you do . Buy the best that you can afford, knowing you will probably replace most of it as time goes by . Good luck and keep Saftey your first lesson!

 

[Bolty]

This is great that you are seeking advice from Thousands of years of experience from members on this site . Trust me after 45 years reloading you will be buying better equipment for years unless you give up shooting .
Yes I remember been were you are trying to get the best value and equipment you can . An example I used a Lyman beam scale for years until I noticed it sticking one day . Cleaning was something I never thought off. Now I have advanced all the way up to a FX -120 and all auto . So it never stops until you do . Buy the best that you can afford, knowing you will probably replace most of it as time goes by . Good luck and keep Saftey your first lesson!

Thank you, I have researched things and seen how equipment has progressed over the years, not worried about being the fastest as I am just starting out. I want the best reloads I can produce, when I get a little more comfortable then I can go into the more automated things. I believe in (not that this applies to all things) learning the basics, then as you progress then you can come up with your own system.

Right now, I am 99% sure I am getting the Lyman American 8 for my press, for the money I can see the benifits in the future. I dont want to go automated on the powder yet, would rather get a good scale, hand measure everything. That doesn 2 things for me, keeps me slowed down till I get comfortable and improve, also gives me a back up incase the "T-10000" auto powder measure goes down lol. I know, no such model lol.

Safety is always number 1 in firearms and anything to do with firearms.

 

[Bolty]

I u

I use both balance beams and electronic. With the balance beam, you have no electronics to go bad, can be quicker when using flake and ball powder, especially with light charges, and you can use it to verify the calibration of an electronic measure. I like the electronic for throwing charges of stick powder, it's quicker and it is more consistent than trying to throw charges of stick powder with a manual powder measure. You can also set the electronic to throw charges freeing up your hands to do other things while a charge is being thrown. If you have to choose just one, the balance beam will do, and it's much cheaper. Just always check your calibration before you start.

So dont even waste my time with a small electronic scale, get a good balance beam and then go with a full on dispenser after? Who makes a good balance beam scale I can start with ?

 

[Bolty]

FWIW I've loaded well over a 150k on a 550....9mm / .45 ACP / 10mm / 5.56 / .308 / .300WM....@ 5 yrs ago I picked up the larger RCBS (Big Chucker?) unit mainly due to needing to use a Willis Collet Die.

All pistol reloading functions are done on the 550.
Rifle powdering is with a cheepy Lee hopper + RCBS trickler + beam scale
Rifle priming is with an RCBS hand prime unit
RCSBS carbide pistol dies
Redding Comp rifle dies
Willis Collet die
Old Gracey trimmer (on my 3rd motor and 2nd replacement Giruard carbide blade)
Dillion Swager
Bench Source annealing unit
Precision Shooting Magazine's Reloading Guide (you gotta be old to know that one)

Not saying it is all the best - just saying I've made a lot a 'pretty good' ammo

A used 550 (+ Dillion's lifetime no BS warranty) and some decent dies will go a long way for you. A properly set up 550 will make straight ammo, and can be easily used like a single stage when desired.

Good luck

I will be looking at Dillons for my pistol ammo reloads, I am pretty set on that and the 550 BL. I was looking at it the other day, so that will be in the future for sure. I am looking at doing the Dillons set up for pistol and a Lyman American 8 for rifle, I am building a .308 right now, just ordered the chassis/stock yesterday. Most likely will go to 6.5 creed for PRS shooting after I see if its as fun as it looks. If it is then I will have the Lyman set up for both cartridges.


Thanks all and your making this a lot easier lol. Trust me, i have learned a lot from everyone here and i appriciate it more then you know.

 

[NCHillbilly]

So dont even waste my time with a small electronic scale, get a good balance beam and then go with a full on dispenser after? Who makes a good balance beam scale I can start with ?

I'm not saying it's a waste, on the contrary. I use them both quite often. I was just saying if you HAD to chose, I would start with a balance beam. All of my equipment is RCBS, but any of the major equipment suppliers have good scales. Later, you may end up with an electronic dispenser, but I would start with a balance beam. It will require much attention, which is especially important when just starting out. Be careful and enjoy. This is just the beginning.

 

[Bolty]

I'm not saying it's a waste, on the contrary. I use them both quite often. I was just saying if you HAD to chose, I would start with a balance beam. All of my equipment is RCBS, but any of the major equipment suppliers have good scales. Later, you may end up with an electronic dispenser, but I would start with a balance beam. It will require much attention, which is especially important when just starting out. Be careful and enjoy. This is just the beginning.

I mean the small digital scales with the metal cup is a waste. I have seen reviews and there repeatability is not as good as the electronic dispensers and some say balance scale is a lot better then those.

 

[Gustav7]

There’s used Chargemasters on the Px here all the time. One sold the other day for like $225. Natchez Shooters has the Chargemaster light on sale right now brand new for $220

 

[Bolty]

There’s used Chargemasters on the Px here all the time. One sold the other day for like $225. Natchez Shooters has the Chargemaster light on sale right now brand new for $220

Why sir why? Why did you have to temp me. The chargemaster light is very tempting, they also have the press i want for less then any where else that i can find. Why do i feel my pockets getting lighter ?

 

[spife7980]

Why sir why? Why did you have to temp me. The chargemaster light is very tempting, they also have the press i want for less then any where else that i can find. Why do i feel my pockets getting lighter ?

Automatic powder dispensing is the single biggest time savings.
220 for a chargemaster is better than 60 for a powder throw, 40 for a trickler, 80 for a beam scale and then a shit load of your time.

The second is a three way cutter for your trimmer and powering it via drill or motor so it also chamfer and deburrs at the same time. Three way cutter saving you 66% of the brass handling on those three steps. Drill or motor literally saving you a pain in the hand elbow shoulder arm back neck and time.

 

[Gustav7]

Why sir why? Why did you have to temp me. The chargemaster light is very tempting, they also have the press i want for less then any where else that i can find. Why do i feel my pockets getting lighter ?

Hahahaha sorry my man. I just picked up a Chargemaster lite from Natchez under that sale. They're behind on shipping about a week or two, but it is in stock. I think they just don't have enough warehouse people right now. They're super nice though.

ya $219 for the Lite. This will be my second Chargemaster, so I can run two side by side. I have an original Chargemaster 1500 from about 8 years ago, and its still running strong.

 

[Bolty]

Hahahaha sorry my man. I just picked up a Chargemaster lite from Natchez under that sale. They're behind on shipping about a week or two, but it is in stock. I think they just don't have enough warehouse people right now. They're super nice though.

ya $219 for the Lite. This will be my second Chargemaster, so I can run two side by side. I have an original Chargemaster 1500 from about 8 years ago, and its still running strong.

What do you use to check the Chargemaster ? I assume there the standard in the electronic powder measuring ? I may pick one up, looks like a really good deal.

 

[spife7980]

What do you use to check the Chargemaster ? I assume there the standard in the electronic powder measuring ? I may pick one up, looks like a really good deal.

Check? Nothing.
If you want to check it then get whatever you care to cross examine with. Actually a a third as well so you know which of the first two is wrong. Its not needed though.

 

[Gustav7]

What do you use to check the Chargemaster ? I assume there the standard in the electronic powder measuring ? I may pick one up, looks like a really good deal.

They come with 50 and 100 gram weights. You want to calibrate it each time you use it. I also use my pan as a pseudo check as well. I know that my powder pan should weight 154.9 grains after calibration. It always has after calibration. Another idea is to put X amount of extruded powder in a case, and weigh it after calibration. Put a stopped in the top and keep it on your desk. After calibration you should weigh the powder charge to make sure it reads the same every time. Thats it.

Theres plenty of test on youtube and online of guys using professional scales like the FX120 to see how accurate the chargemaster is, and they consistently fall within their specs, which is +/- 0.1 gr.

 

[Bolty]

They come with 50 and 100 gram weights. You want to calibrate it each time you use it. I also use my pan as a pseudo check as well. I know that my powder pan should weight 154.9 grains after calibration. It always has after calibration. Another idea is to put X amount of extruded powder in a case, and weigh it after calibration. Put a stopped in the top and keep it on your desk. After calibration you should weigh the powder charge to make sure it reads the same every time. Thats it.

Theres plenty of test on youtube and online of guys using professional scales like the FX120 to see how accurate the chargemaster is, and they consistently fall within their specs, which is +/- 0.1 gr.

Ok cool, I am seriously (even though I dont want to) thinking about getting that Light since it is on sale or even the 1500. The 1500 is on sale as well and shipping for me right now doesnt matter, I dont have a press yet.

 

[Gustav7]

Ok cool, I am seriously (even though I dont want to) thinking about getting that Light since it is on sale or even the 1500. The 1500 is on sale as well and shipping for me right now doesnt matter, I dont have a press yet.

LOL... you starting to see how this whole reloading thing snowballs quickly?

Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with a Chargemaster. It will serve your reloading needs in every capacity for a long time. I use it as my scale for my powder throwers, as well as using the dispenser on it for my precision loads.

 

[Bolty]

LOL... you starting to see how this whole reloading thing snowballs quickly?

Personally, I don't think you can go wrong with a Chargemaster. It will serve your reloading needs in every capacity for a long time. I use it as my scale for my powder throwers, as well as using the dispenser on it for my precision loads.

Oooo i know all about how things snowball lol. I have 2 cars modified, finishing up last car as i get into this as I am done with that hobby, its getting old. I have a harley vrod, got a few things left on it, that is a endless project.

Is this a normal sales price for the chargmasters or are they lower then normal right now?

 

[spife7980]

Chargemasters go on sale often enough for 250 and lites for 220 that I wouldnt buy one not "on sale", wait a month and a half and theyll go on sale for those prices somewhere. But they are by no means always this price and are more often then not 300-350, they just dip in price occasionally.

Occasionally RCBS will have a rebate and you can team that up with a sale for some super deals but you cant guess that, it could be a year, who knows.

 

[Gustav7]

Is this a normal sales price for the chargmasters or are they lower then normal right now?

I've never seen the Lite's cheaper than $220 New.. and Natchez is the only one I see with this sale now.

You can find used Chargemaster 1500's on here often though ... ranging from $240-$300.

 

[Bolty]

I've never seen the Lite's cheaper than $220 New.. and Natchez is the only one I see with this sale now.

You can find used Chargemaster 1500's on here often though ... ranging from $240-$300.

Yea the 1500s go faaaaast lol. For the lights, if they go on sale for 220 and 1500 on sale for the 280ish relgularly then ill wait. Just feeling around for sales, you talked me into one of those instead of doing the balance scale ect. The whole setup is almost the price of a lite on sale and a little more then the 1500 on sale

 

[Gustav7]

I was reloading some plinking .223 today and was thinking about all the little stuff I have found to be useful on the reloading bench that may help you. This is, of course, in addition to the "must haves"; Calipers, case gauge(for setting up), etc...

Heres a look at my inside bench set up for my 550 on .223 right now.....

1.) Keep your shit around your press somewhat clean and organized. I thrive in controlled chaos and am generally not a very organized person, but if for god's sake you do one thing, its keep the 1-2ft circle around your press free of extra crap while relaoding.
2.) Something I did when I began reloading was put the powder jug I'm using out in front of my press. Its HIGHLY likely I'll never forget what I'm using, but I've always done it and I think its at minimum a good recommendation for beginners.

Extra "things" that come in handy:
1.) Air duster (like for computers) I use it every 30-40 rounds to make sure my primer cup isn't getting all dirty and keeps my shellplate clean
2.) funnel... I check my powder drop once, maybe twice every 100 rounds. gotta put the powder back in the case.
3.) allen keys for all allen screws/bolts that is anywhere on my machine/toolheads/dies etc. People forget allen keys, then don't lock their die ring down, then their sizing die shifts and wont resize properly and then your shit won't chamber.
4.) LIGHT...more LIGHT, and some more LIGHT. I use a $22 LED stick lamp off amazon (in the picture) and a toolhead LED light.
5.) The cardboard boxes in the picture, that are holding my cases.... love them. 50 of them off amazon for like $10 (can also use acro bins)
6.) I use a small bowl for bullets... can't stand grabbing them out of a box, slows the process
7.) pair of needlenose pliers preferably, but something along those lines.
8.) cheap LED flashlight... for inspecting up close during setting up and if something "feels off" on the press.
9.) Cue-tips... I keep some regular ones and some 6" stick cue-tips

Another thing that most don't talk about is press lube. It DOES make a difference. My dillon runs night and day different between standard motor oil and what I use now (Butch's Gun Oil). Highly recommend it for your guns as well as your press... attached a photo of the bottle for you.

 

[Bolty]

I was reloading some plinking .223 today and was thinking about all the little stuff I have found to be useful on the reloading bench that may help you. This is, of course, in addition to the "must haves"; Calipers, case gauge(for setting up), etc...

Heres a look at my inside bench set up for my 550 on .223 right now.....
View attachment 7300539 View attachment 7300551

1.) Keep your shit around your press somewhat clean and organized. I thrive in controlled chaos and am generally not a very organized person, but if for god's sake you do one thing, its keep the 1-2ft circle around your press free of extra crap while relaoding.
2.) Something I did when I began reloading was put the powder jug I'm using out in front of my press. Its HIGHLY likely I'll never forget what I'm using, but I've always done it and I think its at minimum a good recommendation for beginners.

Extra "things" that come in handy:
1.) Air duster (like for computers) I use it every 30-40 rounds to make sure my primer cup isn't getting all dirty and keeps my shellplate clean
2.) funnel... I check my powder drop once, maybe twice every 100 rounds. gotta put the powder back in the case.
3.) allen keys for all allen screws/bolts that is anywhere on my machine/toolheads/dies etc. People forget allen keys, then don't lock their die ring down, then their sizing die shifts and wont resize properly and then your shit won't chamber.
4.) LIGHT...more LIGHT, and some more LIGHT. I use a $22 LED stick lamp off amazon (in the picture) and a toolhead LED light.
5.) The cardboard boxes in the picture, that are holding my cases.... love them. 50 of them off amazon for like $10 (can also use acro bins)
6.) I use a small bowl for bullets... can't stand grabbing them out of a box, slows the process
7.) pair of needlenose pliers preferably, but something along those lines.
8.) cheap LED flashlight... for inspecting up close during setting up and if something "feels off" on the press.
9.) Cue-tips... I keep some regular ones and some 6" stick cue-tips

Another thing that most don't talk about is press lube. It DOES make a difference. My dillon runs night and day different between standard motor oil and what I use now (Butch's Gun Oil). Highly recommend it for your guns as well as your press... attached a photo of the bottle for you.

I have everything as far as the extras in house all ready, well most everything. The bins I can custom make and 3D print off, ( i have 2 3D printers). I dont need to buy the tools as I have extra sets of pliers and allen keys. LED lights, I can get once I get my bench finalized ect.

I plan to get a Dillon for my .40 S&W I have but first going to get a turret press for the .308 I am building. Nice set up, how accurate is the powder dispenser on your Dillon ?

What dispenser would is that on your Dillon and how accurate is it ?

Ill check out the gun oil for both, thanks for the recomendation. Ill keep my eye out in the PX but I will probably get a new chargemaster, weather its the light or 1500.

 

[Bolty]

What is the difference in Hornady brass and say Winchester brass ect? Is there really a difference for reloading ? Is one better then the other? I am asking because there is someone selling brass for .308 and has some sperated and some mixed, was wondering if it would be good to go with the mixed as I do not know if brass makes a difference on reloading or shooting at all. I have never known it to or even researched it enough. Would like to get a decent pile of brass (once fired) to start with.

 

[Gustav7]

I have everything as far as the extras in house all ready, well most everything. The bins I can custom make and 3D print off, ( i have 2 3D printers). I dont need to buy the tools as I have extra sets of pliers and allen keys. LED lights, I can get once I get my bench finalized ect.

I plan to get a Dillon for my .40 S&W I have but first going to get a turret press for the .308 I am building. Nice set up, how accurate is the powder dispenser on your Dillon?

Ill check out the gun oil for both, thanks for the recomendation. Ill keep my eye out in the PX but I will probably get a new chargemaster, weather its the light or 1500.

Oh nice, those 3D printers are sick, not much you can’t do on them.

I think the turret press is a good idea to start. The powder dispenser on my Dillon is the Dillon Powder Measure. It’s a good measure and I like it, especially for .223. It’s pretty spot on once dialed in, easily throws within +\-0.1gr. They are expensive though.

For my .357/.38 and 9mm tool heads I run Lee Auto Drum powder measure. Easily adjustable, and a 1/3 the price to setup. They work fine for my pistol stuff. Have not tried them on rifle yet as I already have the Dillon.

As far as brass goes, if you’re just going to go practice and shoot for practice or fun, I don’t see any issue with mixing brass (don’t load to max). If you’re loading for precision, you’re going to want the same brand. Different brands have slightly different internal capacities and that doesn’t bode well for accuracy. I use Starline Brass in my 6.5cm.

for my .223 plinking loads, in the above pictures. That’s a mix of Federal, LC, RP, and PPU brass.... mostly LC though. But again, I’m loading middle of the book loads, and If then shoot 1.5-2 moa then I’m fine with that. Gotta practice

 

[NY700]

I’ve been reloading close to 20 years now. In many ways the shooting world is completely different than it was when I started.

now 1K is not that long of a shot. A sub MOA rifle is easily had off the shelf and match grade ammo comes of the shelf for a reasonable price

honestly for most folks I would say don’t do. Skip it it’s really not necessary unless you are truly looking to get that last 5% performance from your rig or you are shooting something really unique or a king of two mile type cartridge.

but if you really want to go down the path. Keep it simple. Brass prep. Vibratory tumbler almost anyone will be fine my Lyman is two decades old and going strong. Get the WFT trimmer and chuck it up in a drill and know you will have good quick cuts.

get some chamfer tools you can run in a drill cheap effective quick

press. I’ve run a RCBS rock chicken since I’ve started it’s solid and will last forever. I updated mine with the hornady bushing conversion makes super quick die changes and they are consistent. The coax is great but not necessarily with the extra $150

dies. I prefer forester. Redding are great also. skip the bushings. full length size especially starting out. Again keep it simple. Get micrometer seating dies they are worth it.

some of the best money you can spend is on a scale. Accuracy and consistency. If you have the money spend it on a lab grade balance accurate to .02. They read fast they are consistent and accurate.
If not get the RCBS charge master you can find one for $250 these days. They are good. Yes check your zero. And some powder it will over throw. But you will learn its quirks and you can get in a rhythm with near kernel accuracy. I’ve often produced single digit SDs with mine.
Also loaded pistol with type of set up for years before getting my progressive.

but again with the quality of ammoout there. I would just buy ammo and sell the once fired brassif I was starting these days

 

[Rocketmandb]

Single Stage - RCBS Rock Chucker

Own one.

Turret - Redding T-7

Own one.

Progressive - Dillon 650

Not a progressive fan, so can't comment.

 

[Bolty]

I’ve been reloading close to 20 years now. In many ways the shooting world is completely different than it was when I started.

now 1K is not that long of a shot. A sub MOA rifle is easily had off the shelf and match grade ammo comes of the shelf for a reasonable price

honestly for most folks I would say don’t do. Skip it it’s really not necessary unless you are truly looking to get that last 5% performance from your rig or you are shooting something really unique or a king of two mile type cartridge.

but if you really want to go down the path. Keep it simple. Brass prep. Vibratory tumbler almost anyone will be fine my Lyman is two decades old and going strong. Get the WFT trimmer and chuck it up in a drill and know you will have good quick cuts.

get some chamfer tools you can run in a drill cheap effective quick

press. I’ve run a RCBS rock chicken since I’ve started it’s solid and will last forever. I updated mine with the hornady bushing conversion makes super quick die changes and they are consistent. The coax is great but not necessarily with the extra $150

dies. I prefer forester. Redding are great also. skip the bushings. full length size especially starting out. Again keep it simple. Get micrometer seating dies they are worth it.

some of the best money you can spend is on a scale. Accuracy and consistency. If you have the money spend it on a lab grade balance accurate to .02. They read fast they are consistent and accurate.
If not get the RCBS charge master you can find one for $250 these days. They are good. Yes check your zero. And some powder it will over throw. But you will learn its quirks and you can get in a rhythm with near kernel accuracy. I’ve often produced single digit SDs with mine.
Also loaded pistol with type of set up for years before getting my progressive.

but again with the quality of ammoout there. I would just buy ammo and sell the once fired brassif I was starting these days

I am building a .308, yes I know 6.5 is better but I have my reasons, for PRS and possibly hunting. I hope to shoot PRS next year, the tuning of a rifle has always interested me as it is never the same for every barrel ect from what I understand. I have my reasons for reloading, its not to just do it. Sorry if I have not stated that or it was missed in the thread. I do appreciate the advice. If after a cuple years I like PRS as much as I think I will then I will build a 6.5 creed for competing.

Press - Lyman American 8
Powder - Chargemaster (Light or 1500) not decided yet.
still deciding on rest........

Thank you for your advice, I am not just getting into it just to get into it.

 

[Rocketmandb]

What is the difference in Hornady brass and say Winchester brass ect? Is there really a difference for reloading ? Is one better then the other? I am asking because there is someone selling brass for .308 and has some sperated and some mixed, was wondering if it would be good to go with the mixed as I do not know if brass makes a difference on reloading or shooting at all. I have never known it to or even researched it enough. Would like to get a decent pile of brass (once fired) to start with.

Brass makes a big difference. Do not mix brass, as brass from different manufacturers tends to have different case volume. Different volume = different pressure.

Honestly, get quality brass. It will get you better results with less prep and will tend to last longer. Can't go wrong with Lapua - get a couple hundred and it will probably last through the barrel life.

 

[Bolty]

Brass makes a big difference. Do not mix brass, as brass from different manufacturers tends to have different case volume. Different volume = different pressure.

Honestly, get quality brass. It will get you better results with less prep and will tend to last longer. Can't go wrong with Lapua - get a couple hundred and it will probably last through the barrel life.

Thank you for the info, so should you test different brands due to different case volume in your rifle to find the right case and powder load for the best combo with a rifle?

 

[Rocketmandb]

Thank you for the info, so should you test different brands due to different case volume in your rifle to find the right case and powder load for the best combo with a rifle?

Get a good quality brass and do your load development from it - don't worry about matching a particular manufacturer's brass to your rifle. If you switch brass later, then you will need to do some load development again.

Concentrate on matching powder, charge weight, and bullet to your rifle. EDIT: And primer.

 

[want2learn]

midsouth has the lyman press for $199

 

[Bolty]

midsouth has the lyman press for $199

Man, why did you tell me that, I need to look now. LMAO

update, back ordered but I may just get it, wont be getting everything now sooo............ HELP ME make the leap, is that a steal or not guys ??????
Should I just get it though its on back order ?

Lyman All-American 8-Turret Press | Midsouth Shooters

This Brass Smith All-American 8-Turret press is designed to be rugged, durable, and handle even the largest rifle calibers. Get your Lyman press from us today!

www.midsouthshooterssupply.com

Ordered, so here we go guys. On back order but that is ok.

 

[Herb Stoner]

Don't overlook used equipment. I've had a 70s era Pacific Multi Power press that was old when I bought it years ago and I still use it - though mostly decapping now. Rock Chuckers are solid as well and readily available used. On dies you might want to go new and I prefer Forster or Redding - most "lesser" dies have ended up in the junk box. I have a chargemaster I mostly use but my old beam is trusted and I use it regularly. You can get great deals on beam scales all day on ebay - just get check weights or send it to the guy in Bakersfield for a tune up.

I'm not familiar with kits but those I know who've started with them ended up replacing most items - usually the press is last to go or it stays around. If you get a kit get good dies - don't skimp there as the dies can mostly be carried over into upgraded presses should you go that way.

I picked up a Bonanza Co-Ax that was a mess. Good dose of rust and had to take a torch to it to free it up for disassembly but its coming together nicely. Forster had all the part and was very helpful. I just need to get it cerakoted and do the final assembly. Should be better than new for about $125 total invested. I'm not in a position where I need to go cheap but I appreciate the solid build of some older things and its been a fun challenge to refurbish some solid old tools.

 

[Bolty]

Don't overlook used equipment. I've had a 70s era Pacific Multi Power press that was old when I bought it years ago and I still use it - though mostly decapping now. Rock Chuckers are solid as well and readily available used. On dies you might want to go new and I prefer Forster or Redding - most "lesser" dies have ended up in the junk box. I have a chargemaster I mostly use but my old beam is trusted and I use it regularly. You can get great deals on beam scales all day on ebay - just get check weights or send it to the guy in Bakersfield for a tune up.

I'm not familiar with kits but those I know who've started with them ended up replacing most items - usually the press is last to go or it stays around. If you get a kit get good dies - don't skimp there as the dies can mostly be carried over into upgraded presses should you go that way.

I picked up a Bonanza Co-Ax that was a mess. Good dose of rust and had to take a torch to it to free it up for disassembly but its coming together nicely. Forster had all the part and was very helpful. I just need to get it cerakoted and do the final assembly. Should be better than new for about $125 total invested. I'm not in a position where I need to go cheap but I appreciate the solid build of some older things and its been a fun challenge to refurbish some solid old tools.

Thank yo sir,

I got the Lyman turret as it was on sale, have not seen it that low period anywhere. It also has 8 die slots, will work well for me in the future. I have been looking in the PX, so I will be keeping my eye out for stuff. Certain things I see go really fast, I am not against buying used stuff. Thank yo for your recomendations. I will have a combo of used and new stuff.