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Night Vision Norotos lo sto
- Thread starter jeffl838
- Start date
I had one for a while and liked it. It had less wobble than the G24's I've ran.
I have one ... its fine ... its danged light ... but if I was buyin today, I'd also look at the Rhino II ... a wee bit heavier ... but a large load cheaper.
If I'm buyin new I go to Mod Armory. If buyin' used I go to the "network"
If I'm buyin new I go to Mod Armory. If buyin' used I go to the "network"
I have to admit, I get a chuckle every time Nicole (at MOD Armory) responds to a question or e-mail from me (there's a long story behind this and my caller ID on my work cell). Sometimes I feel like we've actually met or something. 
Mod Armory is some good peeps...
Mod Armory is some good peeps...
Yeah I sent MA an email on Friday and Nicole called me on the phone ... not everybody does that these days !
Losto vs rhino II would also depend on what I was trying to do ... if I wanted max flexibility and adjustability I'd stick with the losto ... cause I know it will do everything I need it to do ... the Rhino II has a dovetail mount you can swap out and I have the similar one for the Rhino I, but I at least am not as sure about full range of adjustability for those setups versus the losto ... you can run the IC bridge either way though and its also very adjustable.
Losto vs rhino II would also depend on what I was trying to do ... if I wanted max flexibility and adjustability I'd stick with the losto ... cause I know it will do everything I need it to do ... the Rhino II has a dovetail mount you can swap out and I have the similar one for the Rhino I, but I at least am not as sure about full range of adjustability for those setups versus the losto ... you can run the IC bridge either way though and its also very adjustable.
I have a rhino 2 and am not a fan but I haven't tried it with the dovetail. I like my AKA2 a lot just don't like the mid stow. The mid stow is just a speed bump for me. I've used the G24 a lot and love it - just like trying out new stuff.
Can't seem to find any lo sto's used, so let me know if y'all have a lead. Otherwise, I'll check out MA.
Can't seem to find any lo sto's used, so let me know if y'all have a lead. Otherwise, I'll check out MA.
I have a Lo-Sto in tan that doesn't have the release button. I just bought it and used it a couple of times with a pvs-14/dovetail mount, but I just ordered binos. I've been thinking of selling it to get a G24 bc I plan on using them for work and we run a lot and would feel better having a locking button feature.
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Lo sto has two models,
FTO = Force to Overcome (aka "slam it up")
Push Button
Pro and Con
The FTO is a wee bit faster. And if you're a door kicker and the white lights come on, then FTO sounds good. However, it makes noise, which is not perfect for night hunting, where u want to be stealthy unless the shooting starts.
Push button, with practice, can be about 0.5s slower, but can be done with one hand and makes no noise. Ttilt head down when pushing button to use gravity to allow NODs to "fall" forward in the mount then the button pushing hand completes the manuever and locks the mount up.
www.modarmory.com
FTO = Force to Overcome (aka "slam it up")
Push Button
Pro and Con
The FTO is a wee bit faster. And if you're a door kicker and the white lights come on, then FTO sounds good. However, it makes noise, which is not perfect for night hunting, where u want to be stealthy unless the shooting starts.
Push button, with practice, can be about 0.5s slower, but can be done with one hand and makes no noise. Ttilt head down when pushing button to use gravity to allow NODs to "fall" forward in the mount then the button pushing hand completes the manuever and locks the mount up.
Norotos Lo-Sto Helmet Mount, Push Button (1960010) - MOD Armory
Norotos, Lo-Sto Helmet Mount, Push Button Mount is the most lightweight and compact helmet mount solution available
www.modarmory.com
@Jeff838 and JonLSU
The Rhino 2 with Norotos PVS15/18 Dovetail on it is really hard to beat. It will stow a set of Bino's or a Single 14 flatter on a helmet than any other mount out there period. I started out with the Wilcox G24 and have had it parked for a long time since using the Rhino 2 Dovetail.
The Rhino 2 Dovetail is a lot more stable mount and stronger mount without "chatter" in it like the G24's. A big problem for me with the G24 is the thin serrated rails allow "chatter" in the adjustment on the rail unless you crank down on those tiny allen screw that are there to take that out. But once you do that you cannot easily adjust your in and out position of your NODS. Some folks run bungees on their NODS instead of tightening down on the allen screw, but the idea of hooks under tension that could pop off and hit me in the eye is not very appealing to me.
Additionally the Rhino II Dovetail has a lot more adjustment, especially in the fore and aft which allows you to run your NODS further out or in depending on your preference.
Under an amped up situation, stowing your NODS using force to overcome is quicker and safer. Point being if you are amped up and miss the button on the push button mounts while exerting strong force to flip them you run a chance of breaking something on your mount or the aluminum shroud or disconnecting your mount from the shroud.
Also, if you ever face plant a set of NODS the force to overcome will likely give and fold out of the way such that you do no or significantly less damage to the whole system than a locked down mount that has to activate a release button to stow.
Yeah, I know the "cool guys" run G24's but I aint cool. I want real field performance and durability. Simply amazing to me that my Rhino II Dovetail with an all in average cost of $125 bucks, is a far better mount than my $400 to $500 Wilcox G24.
The Rhino 2 with Norotos PVS15/18 Dovetail on it is really hard to beat. It will stow a set of Bino's or a Single 14 flatter on a helmet than any other mount out there period. I started out with the Wilcox G24 and have had it parked for a long time since using the Rhino 2 Dovetail.
The Rhino 2 Dovetail is a lot more stable mount and stronger mount without "chatter" in it like the G24's. A big problem for me with the G24 is the thin serrated rails allow "chatter" in the adjustment on the rail unless you crank down on those tiny allen screw that are there to take that out. But once you do that you cannot easily adjust your in and out position of your NODS. Some folks run bungees on their NODS instead of tightening down on the allen screw, but the idea of hooks under tension that could pop off and hit me in the eye is not very appealing to me.
Additionally the Rhino II Dovetail has a lot more adjustment, especially in the fore and aft which allows you to run your NODS further out or in depending on your preference.
Under an amped up situation, stowing your NODS using force to overcome is quicker and safer. Point being if you are amped up and miss the button on the push button mounts while exerting strong force to flip them you run a chance of breaking something on your mount or the aluminum shroud or disconnecting your mount from the shroud.
Also, if you ever face plant a set of NODS the force to overcome will likely give and fold out of the way such that you do no or significantly less damage to the whole system than a locked down mount that has to activate a release button to stow.
Yeah, I know the "cool guys" run G24's but I aint cool. I want real field performance and durability. Simply amazing to me that my Rhino II Dovetail with an all in average cost of $125 bucks, is a far better mount than my $400 to $500 Wilcox G24.
@WhereNow&How
good points. Some I haven’t thought of. last nite one of our SOD guys came in and we were talking. He actually has the Binos that I am ordering. I went and tried the lo sto out with them and with the bungees on I liked the feel of it.
when mine come in, I’ll try the running and jumping we tend to be doing, but I think it will work out fine.
good points. Some I haven’t thought of. last nite one of our SOD guys came in and we were talking. He actually has the Binos that I am ordering. I went and tried the lo sto out with them and with the bungees on I liked the feel of it.
when mine come in, I’ll try the running and jumping we tend to be doing, but I think it will work out fine.
I'll be interested to hear what you think of the lo sto as I'm always looking to try new gear. I've got a G24 on loan right now, and while it's high speed looking and low profile, I find it kind of flimsy feeling compared to the AKA2 I usually run, and I don't have as easy of a time getting it set how I want (plus it has some movement in it even when I have it set). The lo sto was on my radar but I wasn't sure I was a fan of the push button being on the right side - maybe it doesn't matter in real use.
Yeah, that Dainty G24 looks good on them real operators like Big Daddy Garand Thumb. Match's the Flannel.
If you have ever been mesmerized by his videos, hit the button.
Watch it, we wear lots of flannel up here in New Hampshire tooYeah, that Dainty G24 looks good on them real operators like Big Daddy Garand Thumb. Match's the Flannel.
If you have ever been mesmerized by his videos, hit the button.
. I really wanted to like the G24 since it's what all the cool guys run (and Wilcox is right down the street), but I'm still not sold on it. That being said, stowed profile is a lot better with my pvs15's than my current Norotos. Maybe the lo sto is a good alternative.So this guy is supposed to be a SME (Subject Matter Expert) whom spent a good bit of time over in the Sandbox that now Trains and Consults others.
So, here is a good lesson to understand. Starting at about 1.20 minutes in, he shows you his G22 and from there he shows you how he dropped his NOD and damaged it.
Amazingly, he doesnt run a lanyard either.
So, here is a good lesson to understand. Starting at about 1.20 minutes in, he shows you his G22 and from there he shows you how he dropped his NOD and damaged it.
Amazingly, he doesnt run a lanyard either.
Hmmm...I run a G24 and see none of the wobble/looseness you guys are talking about. Are you guys running the mounts in metal shrouds, or some sloppy polymer ones?
Maybe I got lucky, but my G24 locks up tight and is easily adjustable. ???
Maybe I got lucky, but my G24 locks up tight and is easily adjustable. ???
All my shrouds are metal. There is no slack between my shrouds and the mount base that snaps into it.
The "chatter" I am describing occurs on the serrated horizontal rails that you adjust the in and out of your device on.
Same experience with the one I have. There is also more slack in the hinge point than I would have expected, which makes it difficult to get the goggles situated at a consistent tilt; however, the one I have is a loaner, so it's possible previous users were hard on it.
Yeah, the Rhino II with Bayonet socket with Plastic J Arm and 14 that was issued to many GI's' in the Sandbox catches a lot of criticism. Rightfully so in the total system configuration it was being used in. Poor old Private Snuffy always gets mistreated. Uncle Sugar could have solved that for about $50 bucks more at real cost, maybe not DOD cost.
Reconfigure it properly with a Dovetail socket using modern arms and bridges, etc and it is a whole different story.
Reconfigure it properly with a Dovetail socket using modern arms and bridges, etc and it is a whole different story.
I might be one of the few odd balls that has broken a g24. I don't know many others that have, but it put a bad taste in my mount. That being said, I still love it, and think that it's the premium product. I just don't want to spend 400 dollars on something that I can't DX
1) The allen screw that tensions the up and down adjustments needs to be loc-tited
2) the plate that stops the actual bracket from sliding off the plate is made of plastic, and it breaks.
I have a rhino 2 with a bayonet that I keep for my skull cap. I think it works fine - just wish there was a way to stow it low profile, like the INVG.
@JonLSU , I personally like having FTO if i'm coming off and on my rifle scope a lot (for thermal observation), but I prefer a push button otherwise. I've always used articulating tubes so if the situation called for it, I would swing a tube out of the way (as opposed to flipping my nods up) in a cqb scenario, but your mileage may vary
1) The allen screw that tensions the up and down adjustments needs to be loc-tited
2) the plate that stops the actual bracket from sliding off the plate is made of plastic, and it breaks.
I have a rhino 2 with a bayonet that I keep for my skull cap. I think it works fine - just wish there was a way to stow it low profile, like the INVG.
@JonLSU , I personally like having FTO if i'm coming off and on my rifle scope a lot (for thermal observation), but I prefer a push button otherwise. I've always used articulating tubes so if the situation called for it, I would swing a tube out of the way (as opposed to flipping my nods up) in a cqb scenario, but your mileage may vary
The Lo-Stow is nice but be advised that it will not work with RNVG housings. The Slide adjustment lever makes contact with the illuminator and won’t allow the dovetail mount to lock together on that particular housing. Pretty sure the mod 3 housing won’t work either. Sorry for the blurry pictures but you get the idea.
Jay
Jay
When using a pvs-14 with a dual dovetail adapter I do not get enough foreward adjustment with the rhino 2 converted to dovetail. I run it completely extended and it's still not quite enough for me when wearing eye protection. The INVG gives me a lot more room. This is likely due to running the dual dovetail.
The Mod 3s will work , or at least the ones i had did, as there is no LEMO port/ IR light on them. My new RNVGs do not work on the lo-sto or the AKA2.
As a side note question..... I grabbed a G24 for the new rnvg and find they do not stow as high as the AKA2 and also do not come as close to the eye as the AKA2. What other mounts alow a higher/farther back stow position than the g24. When im fipping to go from rnvg to scope they are int he way ? Any other suggestions to look at.
@DoubleHaul Don't know about those Norotos Dual Dovetail Adapter mounting arms I am assuming.
I run the Mod Armory Bridges or Mod Armory J Arms and they will give you plenty of outward adjustment. I can almost fit an entire fist from my eye socket to the ocular end of my devices as far out as I can run mine on the Rhino II Dovetail.
To me the best value and all round featured "mounting arm" is the Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge at $350. Yeah you spend about $150 bucks more than a Wilcox J Arm but you can take one arm completely off if you want to run a single or just roll the other unused arm up out of the way or you can run duals if you want to.
So the complete versatility of that "Bridge Mount" and all the roles it can fill (including running a Breach Thermal) makes it the finest investment dollar for dollar of any of the solutions out there. And it is one simple, tough, wobble free mount.
I run the Mod Armory Bridges or Mod Armory J Arms and they will give you plenty of outward adjustment. I can almost fit an entire fist from my eye socket to the ocular end of my devices as far out as I can run mine on the Rhino II Dovetail.
To me the best value and all round featured "mounting arm" is the Mod Armory Light Weight Bridge at $350. Yeah you spend about $150 bucks more than a Wilcox J Arm but you can take one arm completely off if you want to run a single or just roll the other unused arm up out of the way or you can run duals if you want to.
So the complete versatility of that "Bridge Mount" and all the roles it can fill (including running a Breach Thermal) makes it the finest investment dollar for dollar of any of the solutions out there. And it is one simple, tough, wobble free mount.
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For running a mono, the Mod Armory setup described above with the Light Weight Bridge on the Rhino 2 Dovetail is just as compact and low profile IMHO.
And a lot less costly.
Well the Norotos rhino 2 with the dovetail adapter would probably be the highest stowing one that I can think of. It has suitable adjustments to get it comfortably on your eyes and it stows way up compared to the G24. I wish I had a picture to show you but here’s a picture of a 14 stowed away with it.
Jay, that is definitely true with any devices/mounting arms that cannot articulate.
However, for mounts/devices that articulate and let you lay the device right down on the helmet I have found it to provide you one of the most compact solutions out there.
With any of the Mod Armory mounting arms/bridges, PVS 14's, Breach's or any of the articulating BNVD, DTNVG etc type Binos will all lay very flat and compact on your helmet. For someone entering and exiting vehicles and other confined spaces a lot, the Rhino II Dovetail is a pretty nice option if they are running devices that can articulate.
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Jay, I might have misinterpreted what he was wanting. I see now he needs them further out of the way to get a clean purchase on his scope. So the Rhino II will do it like you say if he can live with being high.
Haven't drank enough coffee yet this morning.
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