NRL.22 Scope Features that are most important

[spw11]

NRL.22 Scope... What features are most important to you?

Not necessarily looking for brand/model recommendations (although those would be fine too). I'm more looking for the features you feel are important or critical for NRL.22 specifically.

FFP vs SFP?

Parallax to min. 25 yds?

Magnification Range?

Glass clarity?

MRAD or MOA?

Reticle type (i.e. Christmas tree)?

0.5 mil vs 0.2 mil increments?.

Is an illuminated reticle important?

Zero stop?

The seemingly all important click "Feel"?

Objective diameter... 50 vs 56mm?

Barrel diameter... 30 vs 34?

What have I left off this list that's important to you for NRL.22?

 

[AirCapitalOutdoors]

FFP vs SFP? FFP

Parallax to min. 25 yds? Lower if possible, but a min of 20 or 25

Magnification Range? Not that important with good glass. I run all stages at 12 to 16 magnification

Glass clarity? Absolutely important! a clean picture is more valuable than high magnification. Don’t get caught up in the number. Find good glass and a reticle you enjoy.

MRAD or MOA? Smaller numbers on Mrad, but honestly, it’s not a true item that drastically effect your scope choice

Reticle type (i.e. Christmas tree)? Christmas tree is a must, IMO. Lots of great options out there. Each with its own unique display. I’d suggest staying away from any reticle that places the numbers close to the crosshairs. The numbers can get in the way and effect your perfect hold location.

0.5 mil vs 0.2 mil increments? 0.25 is how my reticle hash marks are shown. I find it works perfectly for NRL stages, as my typical hold is 0 for 50, 0.75 for 75 and 1.75 for 100.

Is an illuminated reticle important? Little to none. My old Athlon never had a battery in it and I never used the illumination. An add-on you pay for, but very seldom use.

Zero stop? another item that is nothing more than luxury. I’ve never dialed past my zero on accident, but I also pay close attention to my turrets

The seemingly all important click "Feel"? Personal preference. I use holdovers during NRL stages and only adjust turrets on long range bonus stages. The feel and sound of clicks, to me, is not a high priority. If the glass is amazing, I’ll accept some lack of “feel” in the turret

Objective diameter... 50 vs 56mm? Personal preference again.

Barrel diameter... 30 vs 34? Personal preference. And more about what you can afford. Once you hit 34mm tubes, you’re typically in a higher grade of optic.

What have I left off this list that's important to you for NRL.22? Again... GLASS QUALITY!!! Go with what you like. Not what your friends, or internet randoms tell you to buy. Be open to scopes and see if you can look through as many optics as you can, both at the range and at the store.

 

[spw11]

Thank you so much AirCapitalOutdoors! Just the type of information I was looking for!

 

[01bmf]

IMO, FFP and mil are important. Whatever you choose, mil or moa, make sure the turrets match. I personally choose mil to stay consistent with my other scopes and to stick with one consistent way of "angular thinking."

 

[spw11]

I appreciate your input, 01bmf............ Is there something about MRAD that better lends itself to NRL22? I certainly understand not wanting to switch back and forth between guns.

 

[01bmf]

I appreciate your input, 01bmf............ Is there something about MRAD that better lends itself to NRL22? I certainly understand not wanting to switch back and forth between guns.

Not necessarily. It is a bit of a personal preference. I like to have 1/10 mil @ 100 yd "clicks" over 1/4 moa. If you're just getting into using either a mil or moa scope, I personally recommend mil. Like I said though, whatever you choose, match reticle and turrets. A mil reticle with moa adjustments is a PITA. As was recommended above, Christmas trees are a big plus.

 

[RandomWAguy]

Out of everything I would say personally I think that the parallax of 25y or less is the most important thing, reason being the kyl rack and the smallest target.

Mil or moa is a dead horse, like said just match turrets and reticle and no worries.

Magnification is a personal thing some like less to be able to find targets easily others want higher for smaller targets, I prefer 6-24. I usually find myself living around 8-18, kyl and paper stages i crank up to 22ish

Reticle is like boxers or briefs, i prefer tree style due to having 10-20mph winds at matches, makes hold over easier.

Ive never needed illumination since matches are 9-3 usually even under clouds Ive not had issues

I have used Athlon argos btr gen1, midas tac and now have ares etr, I like Athlon if you cant tell. Thats my opinion for whatever its worth.

 

[JBoomhauer]

Out of everything I would say personally I think that the parallax of 25y or less is the most important thing, reason being the kyl rack and the smallest target.

Most of my misses, I check parallax and sure enough... it’s off.

 

[Lesloan]

I don't shoot NRL so my question is, for me, just theoretical. But - why FFP? I have a Sightron S3 SFP with the MOA-H reticle, and all I have to remember is that the hashmark values are 2.0 moa at 24x and 1.5 moa at 32x. Do you use several different magnifications in an NRL match? If so, then I can see why FFP is better. Pardon my ignorance.

 

[beetroot]

25yard parallax and zero stop are the only 2 things you need.

FFP, Mils, tree reticle etc are all nice to have, but small targets at close range and lots of turret turning is a given for NRL type matches.

 

[Joshuaray83]

So, in summary, it seems like clarity, parallax, and reticle are the most important (in that order). I've heard the Athlon Argos and Vortex Diamondback Tactical hit the later two, but lack pretty bad on clarity. Anyone have better options?

I've heard amazing things about the 4-16 Midas TAC, but the reticle isn't so great. The 6-24 is pricey for me. There are amazing deals on the Nikon FX1000 and that seems to tick all the boxes. I'm going to have to be saving up for quite some time for anything over $500.

 

[Wrencoforge]

I just got an Athlon Argos 6-24, I’ve had no complaints on clarity. (I don’t use to 24power though as it gets a bit mushy... through 20ish it’s good)
I’ve never used a “high end” scope, (the Argos is my high end) but my old eyes have no problem seeing out to 200yds clearly even in north Idaho’s dismal grey winter months.
Now, if money isn’t an issue, then get something better, but I don’t see the Athlon holding any one back when talking about 22lr distances. Also there have been some good sales as they switch to gen2.
From my investigations, the Bushnell Match seemed like a really good option but hasn’t yet been in stock from what I’ve seen.
I also looked at the Vortex diamondback, and it seemed ok but the reticle could be hard to see in lower light conditions it was very fine and not illuminated (plus a hundred $ more).

 

[slodsm]

So, in summary, it seems like clarity, parallax, and reticle are the most important (in that order). I've heard the Athlon Argos and Vortex Diamondback Tactical hit the later two, but lack pretty bad on clarity. Anyone have better options?

I've heard amazing things about the 4-16 Midas TAC, but the reticle isn't so great. The 6-24 is pricey for me. There are amazing deals on the Nikon FX1000 and that seems to tick all the boxes. I'm going to have to be saving up for quite some time for anything over $500.

The Fx1000 was a good value at 800 bucks, it’s a steal at the current clearance prices. Glass is very very clear and I’ve used them out to 1k without any real complaint unless you’re being picky as hell.

The diamondback tactical isn’t bad for the money but the lack of a zero stop is a complete deal breaker for me on a 22 that I’m going to be shooting at a lot of different ranges. Wayyyy too much dialing and way to easy to get lost in my opinion. My centerfire match rifle wears a series 3 Crimson Trace 5-25x56 that doesn’t have a zero stop. This isn’t a big deal because I can dial from 100-1000 yards without making a full rotation and I only have 6 mils below my 100 yard zero so I can’t get lost.

On a 22 though, I won’t own a scope without a zero stop because dialing subsonic annoying from 50 to 350 yards and back is a whole hell of a lot of elevation and if you leave the range without setting it back to zero, are you going to remember the next time out how many rotations up you were?

 

[Travelor]

To me. the most important feature is having a turret that is 25 MOA per revolutionand a zero stop along with a reticle that lets you hold over with repeatability so you do not have to twist the elevation knob with range changes.

Here is the scope that I have found best for this type of shooting ( I like SFP rather than FFP as the reticle does not change size with magnification changes). I really like the EBR-4 (MOA) Reticle

https://vortexoptics.com/viper-pst-gen-2-5-25x50.html?vortex_reticle=855 Look around and you can find it for about $800.

I also have a Vortex PST Gen 2 FFP with the EBR-7C (MOA) reticle. I bought it for $600 with rings practically new as the fellow found the reticle was too busy for him. What a great buy, but I like the SPF MUCH better.

 

[Rover31]

Question to you,
Are you dialing or doing holdovers?
If you are dialing the #1 feature you must have is... The ability to return to zero!

 

[Joshuaray83]

I also looked at the Vortex diamondback, and it seemed ok but the reticle could be hard to see in lower light conditions it was very fine and not illuminated (plus a hundred $ more).

I do get a veteran discount, so the Vortex would be the same price as an Argos if I went that route. I'm leaning toward the Athlon, though. Illuminated reticle is a negligible bonus, but zero stop is nice.

 

[Joshuaray83]

https://vortexoptics.com/viper-pst-gen-2-5-25x50.html?vortex_reticle=855 Look around and you can find it for about $800.

I also have a Vortex PST Gen 2 FFP with the EBR-7C (MOA) reticle. I bought it for $600 with rings practically new as the fellow found the reticle was too busy for him. What a great buy, but I like the SPF MUCH better.

The PST Gen 2 is definitely more than I'm thinking about paying. I'm not getting serious into this yet. This is my first 22 and I haven't even competed yet, so I don't know what is and isn't really important to me yet.

 

[CodeMonkey]

For NRL22 my requirements are decent resolution (can see my 22LR groups at 50 yards during daylight), good turrets (tactile and repeatable), parallax down to 25 yards, a usable reticle (sub-MRAD subtensions and no proprietary "BDC" bullshit), and enough elevation to reach out to around 300 yards (about 15 MRAD).

I currently run a diamondback tactical 4-16x44 on my base class rig. Mounted on a 25MOA base I have 21 MRAD up elevation. I usually combine dialing and holding in the reticle and this setup works fine for me.

Our MD likes to add bonus stages that can take us out to 400 yards sometimes. The optic is not the limiting factor in getting hits on 2/3 IPSC targets at that range. My only real complaint with the optic is the lack of a revolution indicator. Other than that, it's pretty ideal for base class.

I'd like to have a 10 MRAD elevation turret with a zero stop like my more expensive scopes, and maybe a locking windage turret. Better glass might be nice also, but I only paid $350 for this scope. For the price I'm absolutely satisfied with the performance.

I haven't looked through the Athlon Argos to compare, but it looks like it offers similar features for a similar price. One thing to keep in mind with the Nikon X/FX1000 scopes, Nikon is getting out of the scope business so they will soon be discontinued. That will force you into open class if you run one, assuming you're not already there.

 

[Sgt47]

For those considering the Athlon Argos, you can set a pretty decent zero stop with the provided shim washers.

 

[Sc0-]

Just upgraded from a Sightron 3-16x42 S-Tac to a 6-24x50 Athlon Midas Tac MOA/MOA. Midas Tac has zero stop and resettable turrets, also a more forgiving eyebox and better glass. Am also using Burris XTR Signature rings and posi inserts for course adjustments so have Max use of internal adjustments. The most recent match I didn't dial anything and just used the reticle, combined with a OPEN 10/22, time was plenty! I do need a sunshade on the scope though...

 

[Lesloan]

IMO, FFP and mil are important. Whatever you choose, mil or moa, make sure the turrets match. I personally choose mil to stay consistent with my other scopes and to stick with one consistent way of "angular thinking."

I completely agree. That's why I prefer MOA. Same premises, different choice.

 

[Joshuaray83]

Just upgraded from a Sightron 3-16x42 S-Tac to a 6-24x50 Athlon Midas Tac MOA/MOA. Midas Tac has zero stop and resettable turrets, also a more forgiving eyebox and better glass. Am also using Burris XTR Signature rings and posi inserts for course adjustments so have Max use of internal adjustments. The most recent match I didn't dial anything and just used the reticle, combined with a OPEN 10/22, time was plenty! I do need a sunshade on the scope though...

I think my ideal optic would be the Midas TAC either 4-16 or 6-24. I don't really care either way, but probably the 4-16 since it will be only on my B22 and it'll be cheaper so I can afford it.

 

[hlee]

Mil v MOA doesn't matter for any manipulation you will be doing with the scope. In 22lr it only really matters for talking to other people in your squad. If someone is giving away wind holds in mil, but you are shooting moa, you're doing additional work to get that free intel. Beyond that, know your system and it doesn't matter one way or the other.

Glass quality is somewhat subjective, but you can't hit what you can't see. If your wavering between 2 scopes with equal feature sets, pick the one with clearer glass- to your eye.

Parallax- make sure you can focus down to your min shooting distance. If that is 50y, most scopes with adjustable parallax will work. If it is 25y, you need to look a bit harder.

FFP v SFP- I was squadded with a guy a while back that was shooting with a SFP scope. He had gone through all of the math to figure out hold offs based on range and magnification. He was REALLY struggling. Stay with FFP for less confusion. He sold himself on that point.

Magnification- I have a 6-24 on mine. I'm generally in the 10-12 range, but will crank it up all the way for the kyls. The distances we shoot don't penalize max mag on "long" shots. Mirage really isn't an issue in my experience.

I've never needed an illuminated reticle for a 22lr match.

A Christmas tree reticle is nice to have but probably not a must have.

Objective and tube diameter are determined by other specifications. I would not be concerned with these measurements beyond them dictating ring choice.

"Clicks..." Who counts them? I don't. I dial to where the correct number aligns with the little hash line. This can be done without clicks...

Zero Stop- Dial back to the stop, then back up to zero. After every stage. This is a very important feature. Especially in a scope that may see 2 full revolutions of elevation dialed, a zero stop is a vastly under rated feature.

 

[hlee]

The PST Gen 2 is definitely more than I'm thinking about paying. I'm not getting serious into this yet. This is my first 22 and I haven't even competed yet, so I don't know what is and isn't really important to me yet.

Don't skimp on the scope. If you don't stay with match shooting, you'll still have a good scope. Buy a cheap scope and that's all you'll have, whether you stick with match shooting or not. You could resell a "good" scope, but likely not a cheap one. I have a PST gen1 on my rifle, but would be looking at the gen2 as the baseline for a scope, were I in the market today.

 

[Joshuaray83]

Don't skimp on the scope. If you don't stay with match shooting, you'll still have a good scope. Buy a cheap scope and that's all you'll have, whether you stick with match shooting or not. You could resell a "good" scope, but likely not a cheap one. I have a PST gen1 on my rifle, but would be looking at the gen2 as the baseline for a scope, were I in the market today.

People always give the same advice, but never take into account people on stricter budgets, whether the person looking for an optic has ever owned/used any "good" glass, the fact that some might be planning to participate in NRL22 Base class and JUST a Gen 2 PST would cost more than the allowable $1050 limit, the fact that a new shooter might rather spend less to decide if they even like the sport/hobby before committing a mortgage payment on an optic alone. I understand that you get what you pay for, but you can easily use something like a Diamondback Tactical or Argos BTR for NRL22. Get a budget optic for a known, reliable brand like Athlon, Vortex, Bushnell, or Leupold and you'll be able to re-sell it later if/when you upgrade.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

1. If you have the $$$$, Nightforce NX8 4-32. 11 yard parallax and it's a Nightforce. Reasonably priced.

2. Athlon BTR 4.5-27. $$. It' what I use and is an incredible scope for the money. You get all the features. Not as sexy as the Nightforce.

3. Athlon Midas 6-24 x 50. $$. Lots of favorable reviews here on the hide. Specifically for NRL/PRS .22lr. Most like it for the capped windage.

There's a few others from Athlon to consider based on your budget. If it's a low budget, I'd stay in the Athlon family.

 

[Joshuaray83]

Most like it for the capped windage.

What is it about a capped windage that people like? How is that useful?

 

[Jefe's Dope]

What is it about a capped windage that people like? How is that useful?

It won't get knocked or moved out of position. Before I started shooting matches, I didn't think it a big deal. It can be. Most rarely dial for windage either. Something to consider. I prefer uncapped but you need to be aware to check it before you shoot. Same goes with elevation. I've seen and done it several times. Go to shoot and you've left the elevation where it was for the last stage. You hear "check your dope!" a lot if someone is missing by a mile on a stage. Lessons learned.

 

[Joshuaray83]

It won't get knocked or moved out of position. Before I started shooting matches, I didn't think it a big deal. It can be. Most rarely dial for windage either. Something to consider. I prefer uncapped but you need to be aware to check it before you shoot. Same goes with elevation. I've seen and done it several times. Go to shoot and you've left the elevation where it was for the last stage. Lessons learned.

That makes sense. I guess I've heard that most people hold for windage, so having it capped ensures the hold is where you want it at all times. Thanks.

 

[Lesloan]

I've just ordered an Athlon Midas Tac 6-24x50 FFP MOA. I'll need to get lens caps, flip-up if they're available. Can anybody tell me the OD's of the objective and eyepiece lenses? For some reason Athlon didn't see fit to include this info in their specifications table.

 

[steve123]

Hi Josh,

Just so you know there is a new for 2020 Gen2 Argos BTR series. These are superior to the Gen1 version in more than a few ways, there is much more distinct turret feel, a real zero stop, and upgraded internals.

I've had 5-6 Gen1 Argos BTR's and even though they were decent scopes that got me plenty of wins I sure like these Gen2's a lot. On my 4th year in a row as state champion in Field Target air rifle in my division using this scope so they are pretty good.

If you are on a super tight budget I suggest getting a used Gen1 Argos BTR, or a used Talos BTR 4-14x44. The Talos is my go-to back up scope in case I'm between the scope I sold and the one I want.

IMO get the 6-24 TAC instead of the 4-16 because even at 16x the reticle isn't easy to see on a dark background because of how thin it is.

For those wanting "THE" 30mm scope to buy in the sub $900 range take a serious look at the Gen2 Ares BTR, WOW!
I'm selling 3 of my scopes to replace with the 4.5-27x50. The 4-16 is already gone and waiting for the others to go.

 

[Joshuaray83]

IMO get the 6-24 TAC instead of the 4-16 because even at 16x the reticle isn't easy to see on a dark background because of how thin it is.

Good to know. I wish a retailer near me carried the Athlon lines so I could get a feel for stuff like this.

I did hear about the Gen 2 Argos scopes. True zero stop, better turrets, etc. Seems like they'd be a good deal. Although, if I get a Gen 1 and it breaks, I'll send it back and maybe they'd replace it with the Gen 2 (one can dream).

 

[D_TROS]

So, in summary, it seems like clarity, parallax, and reticle are the most important (in that order). ....


Anyone have better options?


....I'm going to have to be saving up for quite some time for anything over $500.

I am REALLY excited for the new release from Burris. I believe they will be shipping in March.

RT Long Range Riflescopes | Burris Optics

www.burrisoptics.com

mil/mil
ffp
Zero Stop
10/15 yd paralax
SCR2 retc
Solid glass
Locking knobs
50/56mm obj
30mm tube
comes with throw lever

I don't think any scope has these features for $700


GL!
DT

 

[Dthomas3523]

FFP

Parallax 25yd minimum

Zero stop (I’d never buy an optic without one)

The rest is negotiable.

 

[VP47PPC]

I have been competing in NRL22 now for two years. Right now I am running a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 4-16X44. Its FFP, 2MOA marks on reticle and BEST of ALL (very important in NRL22) parallax down to 20 yards. I zero at 50 yards so I do not want a Zero stop, that way I can dial below 50yd zero down to 25 yards. Click feel on the Diamonback is good enough, the glass is not quite as clear as my other rifle with a Leupold VX-3i LRP 6.5-20X50. The Leupold does not parallax below 50/40 yards, is SFP but I can compensate for those features by using Strelok Pro and in the APP adjust power to 12X or 16X (at lower power the image clears up when parallax adjustment won't do it) to get hold under for closer targets. The Diamondback works very well and that would be a nice starting point if price is a consideration.

 

[chevy_man]

Me personally...

10 yard parallax

Mill/mill (just fewer clicks as I'm running way out there)

Ffp because I'll be wherever I want to be and mag ranges are never actually truly marked (and 1 less thing to fuck up)

Zero stop because I'll turn 2-3 rev pretty often and it keeps life simple. (If you zero at 50 you typically hold under or dial a few clicks to hit 25).

4-16 works fine. More is better, better costs more, average it out for you.

Glass clarity/resolution over magnification.

Don't care for reticle in .2 mil, but whatever I can get will work so long as it's a Christmas tree. Ironically I like the basic TMR for center-fire, but I don't dial distance nearly as often with .22 so I like to have better grasp on the wind holds stretching down the tree.

Objective is whatever gives me better than 2mm exit pupil on max magnification.

Body diameter is whatever. More adjustment is better, but past 30mm cost may go beyond what makes sense.

 

[Jefe's Dope]

I have been competing in NRL22 now for two years. Right now I am running a Vortex Diamondback Tactical 4-16X44. Its FFP, 2MOA marks on reticle and BEST of ALL (very important in NRL22) parallax down to 20 yards. I zero at 50 yards so I do not want a Zero stop, that way I can dial below 50yd zero down to 25 yards. Click feel on the Diamonback is good enough, the glass is not quite as clear as my other rifle with a Leupold VX-3i LRP 6.5-20X50. The Leupold does not parallax below 50/40 yards, is SFP but I can compensate for those features by using Strelok Pro and in the APP adjust power to 12X or 16X (at lower power the image clears up when parallax adjustment won't do it) to get hold under for closer targets. The Diamondback works very well and that would be a nice starting point if price is a consideration.

Many of us set up our zero stop .5 to 1 MIL below actual zero for this reason. Or you could use a 25 yard zero and you'd likely never have a need to dial below your zero stop. I do both. 25 yard zero and 5 clicks below zero withe the zero stop.

 

[hesstom]

NRL.22 Scope... What features are most important to you?

Not necessarily looking for brand/model recommendations (although those would be fine too). I'm more looking for the features you feel are important or critical for NRL.22 specifically.

FFP vs SFP?

Parallax to min. 25 yds?

Magnification Range?

Glass clarity?

MRAD or MOA?

Reticle type (i.e. Christmas tree)?

0.5 mil vs 0.2 mil increments?.

Is an illuminated reticle important?

Zero stop?

The seemingly all important click "Feel"?

Objective diameter... 50 vs 56mm?

Barrel diameter... 30 vs 34?

What have I left off this list that's important to you for NRL.22?

I have two Athlon Argos BTR FFP MOA 6x24-50 1st Generation and may consider another as the Gen 2 has a zero stop that doesn't require the nylon spacers, this company is the most bang for your buck you will find. They track well, clear enough especially at their price point, you will spend double or more with other brands for the same features and quality. my first one was a gamble due to Athlon not being widely know at that time, but i am glad i gave them a go.
Tom H. in PA

 

[BulletScientist]

FFP
Multiple hold points in reticle
18x minimum
Parallax down to 25 yds
Good turrets for dialing
Good glass

You can use Mils or MOA. But everyone is speaking in Mils these days, so sharing wind calls, etc would be easier with Mils.

18x is high enough for most stages. Except long range paper. Then you'll want more. And ELR. Past 350 yds or so, you'll want higher magnification. Also, most scopes don't perform well at their max magnification setting. So, ideally, you would want 25x.

I've been successful on the past with a plain mil dot reticle. It HD half mil marks. But a Christmas tree reticle is a definite advantage if there's wind.

 

[Dthomas3523]

FFP
Multiple hold points in reticle
18x minimum
Parallax down to 25 yds
Good turrets for dialing
Good glass

You can use Mils or MOA. But everyone is speaking in Mils these days, so sharing wind calls, etc would be easier with Mils.

18x is high enough for most stages. Except long range paper. Then you'll want more. And ELR. Past 350 yds or so, you'll want higher magnification. Also, most scopes don't perform well at their max magnification setting. So, ideally, you would want 25x.

I've been successful on the past with a plain mil dot reticle. It HD half mil marks. But a Christmas tree reticle is a definite advantage if there's wind.

Modern scopes work fine at their max magnification setting. Mechanically speaking.

Mirage and other factors that are magnified with higher mag is not an issue with the optic.

 

[BulletScientist]

Modern scopes work fine at their max magnification setting. Mechanically speaking.

Mirage and other factors that are magnified with higher mag is not an issue with the optic.

I'm talking about how things look when they're at the top magnification. Clarity, etc. I was talking to a Bushnell guy and he said that scopes are set to perform best (look the best) somewhere in the middle of their magnification range.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I'm talking about how things look when they're at the top magnification. Clarity, etc. I was talking to a Bushnell guy and he said that scopes are set to perform best (look the best) somewhere in the middle of their magnification range.

@koshkin ??

 

[koshkin]

@koshkin ??

That depends on the scope. Some are optimized at the top of the mag range, some are optimized in the middle. Different companies do this differently.

Generally, if the scope is optimized at a particular magnification, it does not mean it sucks at other ones.

ILya

 

[carbonbased]

That depends on the scope. Some are optimized at the top of the mag range, some are optimized in the middle. Different companies do this differently.

Generally, if the scope is optimized at a particular magnification, it does not mean it sucks at other ones.

ILya

Unless the scope contains a Horus reticle. In this unique optical case, scientists have discovered that performance is degraded across the board.

How, you may ask? Well, good sir, those reticles are so advanced that modern manufacturing methods can hardly produce them accurately. When the fools at Schott mess up etching one of Horus’ masterpieces, one gets the notoriously hard to pin down “le web du spidre” flare, kissing cousin of veiling.

Example: See how the subject of a young-besotted-by-Horus sniper’s attention is totally blown out in the below through-scope shot? Tragic.

 

[Kartman]

For me its
FFP
25x or more
Tree Ret with floating dot
25y or less parallax
34mm tube and 56mm Obj

 

[gunner442]

Right now the best bang for your buck is the Gen 1 Athlon Argos BTR 6-24 at Camera Land. $269.99 shipped.

Camera Land

 

[BigdaddyWSM]

I use a Vortex PST gen 2 5-25x50 with my yardages on small tape going around turret, my dope rarely changes except during very hot/humid weather then new tape for late summer. for NRL22 purposes. I had an Athlon Midas also & it was pretty good too except it always was out of focus every other shot.

 

[Aaricg]

i guess there are a few variables in that from my perspective.

1. Base class or open? Budget means everything in this point. I’m a base class shooter and love the diamondback tactical. Cost kept me right where I needed to be.
2. Power. I typically shoot from 10-15power in a match. Plenty of people shoot 24x but I think it takes away from you target acquisition from having such a small field of view.
3. Parallax. 10 or 25 yards is a must.
4. Zero stop. I run a 30 moa base and the diamondback tactical has no zero stop which isn’t an issue because with the slopes base you can’t dial it past zero again.
Best of luck in your decision, I know all the info can be mind blowing.

 

[SharpsNitro]

Has anyone tried the Meopta Optika6 3-18X? It seems to check most of the boxes for me, I’m looking for a good scope to run on a PCP pellet rifle. The 10m parallax, zero stop and illumination are my most critical features for pest control and FFP is preferred. Optical quality is a given so I don’t list that as a feature. Also, non-China manufacture is something of growing importance to me.

Of the handful of quality 10m scopes out there this one and the NX8 seem to make the most sense (size and price), not sure I want to try and push to the PMII level. March may be another option near the NX8 price point. Any others I’m missing?

 

[koshkin]

I have a 3-18x50 Optika6 and it is a rather nice scope.

I also have a March 3-24x52 and I think it is a much better scope than NX8, but also more expensive. I do not think they are quite at the same price point. I was thinking about setting up for NRL22 and I might use the March for it. With Tikka T1X I shoot, it would be difficult for me to squeeze into the base class.

I will probably set up the Tikka T1X with the 3-24x52 March.

Then, I have FX Dreamline Tactical airgun coming this way and I will probably set that one up for NRL22 as well either for me or for one of my kids. I am trying to get them to shoot with me.

If I wanted to make base class, I would probbaly be lookign at something like a Savage boltgun and SwampFox Kentucky Long 5-30x56. I tested the MOA version and the scope is quite good. The mrad version should be hitting the market later this year and that should be a real option if you can find a sub-$450 boltgun that is accurate enough.

ILya