When I needed reducer rings to mount my March F 3-24X with 30mm tube in my 34mm DTA mount, I used some reducer rings I had already for my Accuracy 1st scope level (which are GREAT levels by the way) and they worked perfectly. I'm pretty sure you can buy these reducer rings from Accuracy 1st separately from the levels and might just solve all your guys issues! Check them out, since they are pretty cheap, usually in stock and ship fast. They are durable plastic and NOT metal, so no ring marks! Great company with high quality products.Ughhh.....
What am I doing wrong? When I switched from my Gen1 to my A1 I went from using the DTA SRS mount and DTA Spacers to the DTA HTI mount and spacers. But when I try and install it all I can tighten the ring tops fully and the spacers don't touch each other an the scope is still loose???
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Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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Got it!! I have a K624i with MIL turrets (0.1MIL increment). I'll give it a shot (literally eheh) and it should help I'm used to the metric system
Dogtown, Ive had great success with berger 175 LRBT seated at 2.91", 44gr varget, gm210m, Lapua case, 2530fps.Sub moa @100yd, consistent hits @> 1030.
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Is there a updated rubberized butt pad available for the older SRS? Might be picking up another DTA but older SRS me thinks?
I see. Do you know what that runs? Can't seem to find it on the site.
Oh and lastly will the new barrels work in both the SRS and SRS-A1
sorry so many questions.
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HELP!!! I have 2 SRS A1s-one I got in August and the second in November. In the first one, when shooting the 22" 308 barrel, it tends to get stuck in the receiver. If I get it out and use the 26" 260 then the 22" 308 will not go back in the last 3-4 inches. No problems at all with these issues in my 2nd SRS A1. Has anyone else encountered these types of problems when switching barrels. Any fix ideas or should I send the rifle or just the barrel to Desert Tech for a look?
For clarity, the Gen 1 barrel extension has a small grove cut into it that indexes off of a small pin in front of the feed ramp. The Gen 2 version has a large notch cut out of the front of it that allows it to index directly off the feed ramp itself, which is far more robust than the previous version.
Dogtown, that "gen1" in the picture is a gen2. Both of those pictured are Gen2's. Here's a gen1:
Here are the two barrel extension types. Gen1 uses a pin and Gen2 uses a feed ramp. A1's are all Gen2 extensions.
I know it's tough but I highly recommend reading the entire thread from page 1 to current as all of your questions can be answered as a lot of this has been covered
If you have a micrometer measure the diameter of the 26" 260 barrel. It sounds like its a little undersized. When you pinch the receiver down on it the receiver flexes a little leaving the hole smaller than necessary to fit your .308 barrel. I've seen this happen with a couple aftermarket barrels that were too small....like 1.24-1.245" rather than the spec 1.25 +0-.001. Doesn't take a lot to mess things up. It could also be your .308 barrel being a little oversized. Measure it too. It shouldn't be bigger than 1.25".
For SAKO man....
you can get a nylon buttpad/cheekrest from a number of vendors for you gen 1 rifle if you really feel you need one. Most of us just shoot the gen 1's as is and get used to it.
Hope that helps
Frank
i know this isn't the sells area, but i have a dta hti 40moa base in perfect shape, if someone is looking for one let me know. or if anybody has a 30moa base they want to trade me..... im willing to do that also. the 40moa is to much slope/cant for my glass.
Is it the 6-screw top? We've got some 30moa in stock. I'll trade you straight across for your 40moa if you'd like. We have a pile of mounts in 40, 30, and 20 moa.
If it's the old 4-screw mount you have, I'll still trade you out into a 6-screw mount, but you'll have to cough up some money.
yes it's the 6 screw mount, it's been sitting in my safe, so thers absolutely no ding's or nicks or anything damaged to it all. my glass just doesn't need that slope. i can send you some photos first if you like, to your email adres?Is it the 6-screw top? We've got some 30moa in stock. I'll trade you straight across for your 40moa if you'd like. We have a pile of mounts in 40, 30, and 20 moa.
If it's the old 4-screw mount you have, I'll still trade you out into a 6-screw mount, but you'll have to cough up some money.
Your word's good enough. Send it on. Be sure to include a note referencing this conversation and your shipping address.
QD Mount?
Hi All,
I just got an SRS A1 Covert in .308 and .338 LM. I tried to mount an S&B 5x25 56mm on it using some existing Badger rings, but they were not high enough. Currently looking at American Defense AD-RECON-SW qd scope mount. My question is - Will the quick detach mount be strong/secure enough to handle the .338 LM recoil without shifting zero?
Thanks.
Hi All,
I just got an SRS A1 Covert in .308 and .338 LM. I tried to mount an S&B 5x25 56mm on it using some existing Badger rings, but they were not high enough. Currently looking at American Defense AD-RECON-SW qd scope mount. My question is - Will the quick detach mount be strong/secure enough to handle the .338 LM recoil without shifting zero?
Thanks.
NOTED!! and thank you greatly, big smiles here!! it's very hard these days to take peoples word, since your helping me out, il send a money order with package for a t shirt. THANK YOU!
I use this mount (no built in elevation) with a VORTEX RAZOR 5-20 on my SRS in .338 LM. Works fine, no zero shift. I ended up putting a 20 MOA badger rail section on to get a little more vertical adjustment in my glass.
That was not necessary, but thank you!
We have several customers using them. No complaints thus far. We have a 40MOA 34mm model in stock if you'd like it!
Thanks. Since I don't plan on shooting past 1000yd - will I'll need any built in elevation? I have the mil version S&B 5x25 scope.
PM Sent
Quote Originally Posted by kgreylgrey
"Thanks. Since I don't plan on shooting past 1000yd - will I'll need any built in elevation? I have the mil version S&B 5x25 scope. "
Quote Originally Posted by kgreylgrey
"Thanks. Since I don't plan on shooting past 1000yd - will I'll need any built in elevation? I have the mil version S&B 5x25 scope. "
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I would use at least a 20 MOA rail or scope mount. Will allow more flexibility and keep the reticle more near center at distance.
You won't NEED it, but it doesn't handicap you at all to have a canted mount. With the versatility DTA platform I would get it as if you ever do get the itch to go ELR/ULR with a 338 or the like, you won't have to get anything new. I have a SB 5-25x in athe 44.4moa Spuhr on my 308 DTA for when I play with the 7mm and heavy 30cal cartridges in the future.
Plus if I recall correctly, Frank said he spoke with either an AI or SB rep at SHOT one year that said the SB 5-25x was designed to be in a canted mount on top of the AIs.
Looks like I need to think about possible future uses/calibers for the platform. All good input.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Well how can we help make it happen?
If you need preorders with deposit, i,m sure we can start a thread to that effect
does any one have a proof research carbon fiber barrel on anything i e-mailed them about having one built for my DTA figured it would bring down the weight substantially they said they needed at last 30 orders to make it worth their while
I'm set for barrels now but am curious about Proof as well for future barrels.
Have you looked at SAC? I'm sure they can make a Proof Research barrel work.
Sent from my GT-S6810P using Tapatalk
I have multiple Proof/ABS barrels. Had good luck with them. I've looked into the same thing. I think the way to go would be to buy a barrel from Proof and send it to Short Action Customs.
Just wanted to give a big Thanks to Greg @ Primal Rights and Travis @ TS Customs for putting together my DTA in .308 Thanks Guys ! It looks killer
Yes it's Threaded , Travis's Barrel work is slick !
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Here's my HTI in .50BMG, which I got with a .mil discount JUST before the price increase! I can't tell you how it shoots, but the trigger BLEW ME AWAY when I first tried it. It's not just good for a bullpup, it's a good single stage trigger, period. I just got the barrel back today from Elite Iron, and they made the brake you see on it. Has an IR illuminator for clip on NV sights, and an LRA "light" bipod. I'm still waiting on the optics, and I need loading gear anyway. But I'm most of the way there I suppose, and as soon as I get the optics I'll be able to try it out --unless I get antsy and pull the SN-3 off the Grendel for a day of abuse.
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Here's a closeup of the brake. It goes on and off using a wrench, no Loctite, so swapping back and forth with the can won't be a problem, which also uses a wrench. Elite is working on the can at the moment, Cerakoted FDE to match the rifle, and with any luck I'll have it by Christmas. Elite may be the one making the can for existing brake as well, but I couldn't wait. It's still a ways out I understand, so for now, this as "QD" as it gets for the HTI.
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Here's a closeup of the brake. It goes on and off using a wrench, no Loctite, so swapping back and forth with the can won't be a problem, which also uses a wrench. Elite is working on the can at the moment, Cerakoted FDE to match the rifle, and with any luck I'll have it by Christmas. Elite may be the one making the can for existing brake as well, but I couldn't wait. It's still a ways out I understand, so for now, this as "QD" as it gets for the HTI.
"Here's a closeup of the brake. It goes on and off using a wrench, no Loctite, so swapping back and forth with the can won't be a problem, which also uses a wrench. Elite is working on the can at the moment, Cerakoted FDE to match the rifle, and with any luck I'll have it by Christmas. Elite may be the one making the can for existing brake as well, but I couldn't wait. It's still a ways out I understand, so for now, this as "QD" as it gets for the HTI."
Than brake looks interesting and elite iron is cutting edge. I would really like to hear how that brake does compared to the DTA factory brake.
Than brake looks interesting and elite iron is cutting edge. I would really like to hear how that brake does compared to the DTA factory brake.
We have two of the FDE/FDE HTIs with 50BMG conversions ready to roll out the door. Had some cancellations due to funding so these are available. Ill even give you ammo to zero your new beast. Give us a call for you SH price if your interested.
One day I MAY try out the factory brake, but I have to get more shims to fit it again. I'll look into that, a comparison would be nice like you said. I obviously went this route because the QD can isn't ready yet, so I had a brake and a can both made that I can remove with a wrench. Both the brake and the can are timed to the barrel as well.
This brake design obviously had some thought put into it, it's not your normal design at all. It looks like it was designed on a computer, taking into account pressure, etc. It doesn't simply vent the gas back with baffles in order to "pull" the rifle as others do. So we'll see how it works on this fairly lightweight rifle. FYI, it's about a $300 brake, and you may need to ask for wrench flats, because he doesn't always cut those into the design, it's up to you. But it lets me get the brake and can off fast and easy, and I can get 'em on snug too.
But again, I'm waiting on optics. I want that NF BEAST but it's still not out yet I guess. I'm down for a group buy on here, been on it for a while, but haven't heard anything.
I did hear someone came out with optics that 110MOA or some such, close to the 120MOA, but they claimed 100 and 110 USEABLE MOA, so that may be even better... I wish they used a uniform schedule for rating and comparing scopes. Anyway, does anyone know of these quality scope manufacturers that have something like this in 5-25x, FFP? Something as good or better than the NF BEAST?
I know the FFP isn't the best for long range, so I plan on having two scopes for it, another will be a higher mag SFP optic and likely on a canted base for shooting long range in daytime. But I want the FFP first, no cant and compatible with clip on NV, so there's the reason I'm not looking for a "better" long range optic at the moment. That, and I need loading gear too! Damn this thing is costly! But you know what? Ain't another rifle like it out there.
And I agree with the trigger: as far as single stage triggers go, it's tops in my cabinet. I can't compare it to 2-stage because that's like comparing apples to oranges. Unique decision for a precision rifle IMO, but whatever. I can see it getting shots off faster that way, and if it helps reduce lock time and make for a better rifle, I'm all for it.
This brake design obviously had some thought put into it, it's not your normal design at all. It looks like it was designed on a computer, taking into account pressure, etc. It doesn't simply vent the gas back with baffles in order to "pull" the rifle as others do. So we'll see how it works on this fairly lightweight rifle. FYI, it's about a $300 brake, and you may need to ask for wrench flats, because he doesn't always cut those into the design, it's up to you. But it lets me get the brake and can off fast and easy, and I can get 'em on snug too.
But again, I'm waiting on optics. I want that NF BEAST but it's still not out yet I guess. I'm down for a group buy on here, been on it for a while, but haven't heard anything.
I did hear someone came out with optics that 110MOA or some such, close to the 120MOA, but they claimed 100 and 110 USEABLE MOA, so that may be even better... I wish they used a uniform schedule for rating and comparing scopes. Anyway, does anyone know of these quality scope manufacturers that have something like this in 5-25x, FFP? Something as good or better than the NF BEAST?
I know the FFP isn't the best for long range, so I plan on having two scopes for it, another will be a higher mag SFP optic and likely on a canted base for shooting long range in daytime. But I want the FFP first, no cant and compatible with clip on NV, so there's the reason I'm not looking for a "better" long range optic at the moment. That, and I need loading gear too! Damn this thing is costly! But you know what? Ain't another rifle like it out there.
And I agree with the trigger: as far as single stage triggers go, it's tops in my cabinet. I can't compare it to 2-stage because that's like comparing apples to oranges. Unique decision for a precision rifle IMO, but whatever. I can see it getting shots off faster that way, and if it helps reduce lock time and make for a better rifle, I'm all for it.
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Well, I talked to Dale for a while at Elite Iron, and he said not to bother with bringing the brake the extra 1 deg. into time, that it'll do that over time, ie, they did that on purpose. Guy is VERY smart, knows a ton about metallurgy. The brake is his design, and while I haven't tested it against the DTA brake, he has, and he says he prefers his and left it at that.
Guy's real straight up too, says if I find a better can made for the Blackout specifically, that I should look at it and perhaps go with that. Not many manufacturers will say "go check out another dealer if they've put more work into such and such caliber and design". Kudos there. But he also directed me to his CQC Elite for 6.5G when I brought it up, says it works well with that and 5.56 alike. That's great, I need that in fact, and it's also semi-QD, as in it threads over the brake. If I get an SRS, perhaps I can use that for one of the cans, and it'll work with my AR's in those calibers that aren't fixed with AAC mounts for now.
Guy's real straight up too, says if I find a better can made for the Blackout specifically, that I should look at it and perhaps go with that. Not many manufacturers will say "go check out another dealer if they've put more work into such and such caliber and design". Kudos there. But he also directed me to his CQC Elite for 6.5G when I brought it up, says it works well with that and 5.56 alike. That's great, I need that in fact, and it's also semi-QD, as in it threads over the brake. If I get an SRS, perhaps I can use that for one of the cans, and it'll work with my AR's in those calibers that aren't fixed with AAC mounts for now.
We can get you on a pre-order for the Tangent Theta TT525P. It will be tough to find a better scope than that.
I had a question for the guys with coverts. I am looking at getting one, but unfortunately I live in Canada, were suppressors are illegal. Has anyone had any issues with optics while running it un-surpressed? some of the larger scopes seem to come close to the end of the barrel. I have a 4.5-27 razer HD on order and am worried about damaging it with it being so close to the muzzle. I don't want to purchase this over an SRS and have an issue later on.
I would prefer to not ruin an expensive scope to figure this out.
Thanks in advance
I would prefer to not ruin an expensive scope to figure this out.
Thanks in advance
Nope, no problems. I ran mine in the States for a few years before moving to unregulated suppressor land (ie NZ) without problems. My S&B 5-25x ends about 3-4 inches from the end of the handguard. I later added a sunshade which would theoretically help protect the objective lens, though that wasn't the intention. I'm running .308WIN and .338LM covert barrels, BTW.
No probs on mine either w/nightforce and no sunshade the objective well behind the muzzle, with sunshade on it protrudes past the muzzle and no problems there either.
I finally made it to the range to put the .375CT HTI through initial testing with variety of handloads and some DTM factory ammunition and it didn't disappoint.
I initially confirmed the .50BMG zero so that I could track the POI shift between .50 and .375CT then I fired 3 rounds of DTM through the chrono and experienced a -3 MOA/L 3MOA POI shift which surprised me considering the increase in MV from about 2640FPS with the .50 to about 3100 with the CT.
As anticipated it took several rounds down the pipe for the barrel (and me) to settle in. The second to the last 3 shot group was one ragged hole with 352gr. CE/Bertram brass/132.5 gr. Retumbo/GM215M/COAL=4.444".
Then finished out the day with a 2.5" group on steel at 550 yds.
Looks like I'm going to build some more 132.5 Retumbo's, confirm 0 and re chrono. Then try to stretch its legs a little.
I initially confirmed the .50BMG zero so that I could track the POI shift between .50 and .375CT then I fired 3 rounds of DTM through the chrono and experienced a -3 MOA/L 3MOA POI shift which surprised me considering the increase in MV from about 2640FPS with the .50 to about 3100 with the CT.
As anticipated it took several rounds down the pipe for the barrel (and me) to settle in. The second to the last 3 shot group was one ragged hole with 352gr. CE/Bertram brass/132.5 gr. Retumbo/GM215M/COAL=4.444".
Then finished out the day with a 2.5" group on steel at 550 yds.
Looks like I'm going to build some more 132.5 Retumbo's, confirm 0 and re chrono. Then try to stretch its legs a little.
