Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

I also just got my DTA SRS A1 with TS Customs 7 LRM barrel from Orkan (Greg) at Primal Rights. I not only got best price possible but great service. Custom barrel was fluted, painted, and arrived in less than a week from the time I placed the order. AWESOME! Can't wait to get a can for it.
 
I also just got my DTA SRS A1 with TS Customs 7 LRM barrel from Orkan (Greg) at Primal Rights. I not only got best price possible but great service. Custom barrel was fluted, painted, and arrived in less than a week from the time I placed the order. AWESOME! Can't wait to get a can for it.
Too kind sir!

Don't forget to send me pictures of your groups and dead critters fellas!
 
This little bugger ran across the road in front of us today while we were driving to one of our coyote sets. Took him at 225yds on the run. 22-243Win left a nasty exit. ;)

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Wow thats short as. Load development would need to be done efficiently. Have you punched paper with it ? Or is it "minute of animal " accuracy ? Im seriously thinking of my next Conversion kit even though I havent got my Dta srs yet . I had a shot of a Dta in 6.5cm and liked it low recoil and 300wm ballistics. Im thinking since I have the 300wm is it worth having the 338lm ?
 
Is this normal wear after the first 50-100 rounds in an SRS? I ask, because after several hundred rounds, there is no such wear on my HTI. I checked the bolt and there are no obvious burrs or uneven spots.


I am having a hard time telling if that is a scrap or a reflection in your receiver. My SRS has some obvious wear marks. I would be concerned if you happen to see any metal shavings in your receiver. If you want, I would be happy to look it over here in SLC.
 
Is this normal wear after the first 50-100 rounds in an SRS? I ask, because after several hundred rounds, there is no such wear on my HTI. I checked the bolt and there are no obvious burrs or uneven spots.
That's pretty normal wear. The anodizing is just decorative, so it doesn't take much to wear it off. Some chassis/bolt combos do it worse than others, but all will scrape up inside at some point. Keep a light coat of CLP on it in there, and you'll have nothing to worry about. :)

Wow thats short as. Load development would need to be done efficiently. Have you punched paper with it ? Or is it "minute of animal " accuracy ? Im seriously thinking of my next Conversion kit even though I havent got my Dta srs yet . I had a shot of a Dta in 6.5cm and liked it low recoil and 300wm ballistics. Im thinking since I have the 300wm is it worth having the 338lm ?
As you can see by the article, its accuracy is no issue. I'd call it "minute of coyote's eyeball at 300yds." ;) 338LM carries more energy than the 300wm, by quite a bit. This is especially true at distance, and more true still if you get a custom 30" tube from us.
 
Who makes the barrels for the DTA rifles?

And also, what would be expected barrel-life on a 6.5 Creed?
If you're talking about factory DTA's, then I'm pretty sure they are Lothar Walther these days. There were some Krieger's early on.

We sell TS Customs barrels for DTA's as well. We can customize any aspect of your barrel for you. I'd expect 2500rnds before your 6.5CM started giving you any issues. Though it varies. Some will go around 2000, and others around 3000. Also, it depends on what level of accuracy you are accustomed to. Some will continue to shoot MOA up towards 4000+. Though around 2000-2500, you'll lose that quarter moa edge most of the time.
 
Orkan is right on the factory barrels. Early barrels were Krieger and then DT switched to Lothar Walther.

Factory Lothar Walther barrels from Desert Tech shoot fantastic. All the Factory DT barrels that I have experience will easily hold the one half MOA that DT guarantees. I will often have customers send me pictures of the groups their rifles produce after buying them. These pics are often of one hole 5 shot groups at 100 yards and reports of fantastic accuracy at distance. Which has been my personal experience too.

The only reasons to go with a custom barrel in my opinion would be for a caliber not offered by Desert Tech, or for a custom barrel length. Some are concerned about the 3/4X24 threads on the end of the Factory SRS barrels. There is enough meat on the barrel that it can be rethreaded in 5/8X24 without having to cut/shorten the barrel. I recently had a local customer have his factory 6.5 CM barrel rethreaded to 5/8X24 and he is telling me that his rifle is shooting 1/4 MOA at 100 and 1/2 MOA at 200.
 
Factory 22" 308 bbl with Factory Hornady (OTM) 155 grain, 100 yards, prone, bipod, ten (10) shot group, just over 0.6" shot today at PMAA.



I am told that LW barrels won out because they were the only ones that were very very consistently concentric from lot to lot. I have no complaints about mine!
 
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Lots of other reasons. Flutes, flute depth, flute pattern, contour, twist rate, color, brakes, accuracy, etc.

Yes there are ascetics, contour, fluting options, length, and twist rates options on a custom barrel. Looking at the contour, fluting, length, and twist rates of the factory offerings, I just don't see and advantage to spend hundreds more on a custom barrel in the caliber offerings that Desert Tech offers. Obviously there are some that do. I know SAC and TS Customs produce some fantastic barrels. I have sent customers their way and to some other gunsmiths for custom barrels and they have been happy with their barrels too. Heck, I may be going to TS Customs for a custom 7 LRM as WSM brass is harder to find than locating unicorn tears.

All the DT barrels that I have used have shot well under their 1/2 MOA guarantee. If I had to estimate accuracy, I would say they are typically 3/8 MOA or better (this is shooting off of a bipod and usually using the DT rear monopod). Accuracy may increase using a bench rest style front rest and rear bag, however I don't have a fancy front rest to test that theory. You are going to have to be one heck of a shooter to ring greater accuracy out of a barrel. I shoot a factory SRS .260 barrel. In my last match we had a stage with little smiley faces colored in yellow, red and green. The yellow were nearly completely unobscured, the red were often very obscured by the green (think Hostage). Hitting a green smiley resulted in negative 10 points while the yellow and red counted towards your score. I was the only one to clear the stage and I was shooting a factory Desert Tech Barrel and a TBAC 30BA suppressor. I also did not have any impacts near the Green/Hostage smileys. This factory barrel is a laser and everything went where intended. There were lots of custom guns/barrels on the line, with shooters that have years of experience on me and have finished in the top 10 at national level PRS matches (I am an average shooter and this year have primarily shot matches with very little to no practice in-between matches).

I just personally do not see a custom barrel as a necessity on an SRS rifle if you want to shoot a factory offered caliber, as the factory barrels shoot lights out.
 
RMW and others -

I"m torn about the monopod versus a small rear bag. I really think that it affects my ability to shoot consistent groups. Problem with the monopod is that it slides on a bench (I have some rubber glued to the bottom of my HTI monopod). I generally like a rear bag, but with HTI, if I'm squeezing a small rear bag, the magazine hits my left hand on recoil and I worry that's causing a flinch situation. Shooting off a bipod in the front, what's the best rear support, a bag or a monopod? Whatever is the answer, I hope it adapts to field use, because my goal is long range varmint and deer hunting....

SOA
 
Heck, I may be going to TS Customs for a custom 7 LRM as WSM brass is harder to find than locating unicorn tears.
You won't miss 7WSM. ;) LRM feeds way better in the DTA. That cartridge is really going to take off when hornady figures out the brass issues. Working through some bad stuff right now. Still shoots great, but doesn't last as long as it should.

I'm not arguing with you on the factory barrel accuracy. They do shoot good. Better than most all other factory rifles, no doubt. Though for some, good is not good enough. I also will never tell someone what they need, so if you're happy with the factory barrels, then I'm happy. Lots of my customers choose factory barrels and are happy. However, we have a lot of customers that have both factory tubes as well as TS Customs barrels, and they prefer the customs. Once they have sub-1/4moa capable barrels, they find it hard to go back to anything worse. Travis has that affect on people. His rifles/barrels are like crack. He's building a 22-243AI for me right now. ;) I see custom barrels as a necessity in my rifles, but I don't see them as a necessity in everyone's.

We can cut massive weight, or add massive weight with custom barrels. This comes in very handy for specializing the role of the rifle. We sell a pile of heavy 30" F-Class tubes. Short, fat stuff for hog smashing is also a big hit. We've been able to tailor the weight/balance/feel/look of people's rifles to put DTA's where they would not have been otherwise. We're happy to cater to any of our customers needs regardless of what they want their rifle to do.
 
RMW and others -

I"m torn about the monopod versus a small rear bag. I really think that it affects my ability to shoot consistent groups. Problem with the monopod is that it slides on a bench (I have some rubber glued to the bottom of my HTI monopod). I generally like a rear bag, but with HTI, if I'm squeezing a small rear bag, the magazine hits my left hand on recoil and I worry that's causing a flinch situation. Shooting off a bipod in the front, what's the best rear support, a bag or a monopod? Whatever is the answer, I hope it adapts to field use, because my goal is long range varmint and deer hunting....

SOA
I use both. I don't have an issue with rear bag or monopod. The monopod is suppose to slide. If your body position is correct behind the rifle, it will slide in a straight line right back into you. Sometimes I need more height, so I'll toss a rear bag under the monopod, and that works well also.

I know what you mean about the magazine... as it does bop you in the hand sometimes. I've not found it to be too big of an issue due to how I run the rear bag. Have you seen our video on the subject? Feel free to give me a call if you want to talk more about technique.

DTA SRS - Rear Bag & Reloading Considerations - YouTube
 
RMW and others -

I"m torn about the monopod versus a small rear bag. I really think that it affects my ability to shoot consistent groups. Problem with the monopod is that it slides on a bench (I have some rubber glued to the bottom of my HTI monopod). I generally like a rear bag, but with HTI, if I'm squeezing a small rear bag, the magazine hits my left hand on recoil and I worry that's causing a flinch situation. Shooting off a bipod in the front, what's the best rear support, a bag or a monopod? Whatever is the answer, I hope it adapts to field use, because my goal is long range varmint and deer hunting....

SOA
I prefer the Monopod, this is why. I had the same issue with the gun sliding on the bench. They then installed carpet, I changed the bipod legs to claws. No more slippage. That solved that issue. Now if there is a hard surface I'm shooting off of, I take a sand bag and throw it on the ground in front of my bipod, then load the pod onto the sandbag.

I had the same issue hitting my hand, it hurts. when I use a rear bag I make sure there is plenty of clearance for my hand and the mag. That's my 2 cents. Also, my shooting mat has straps sown in to help load my bipod, thus eliminating any rear Monopod slippage
 
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My only complaint about my SRS (.308 with TBA 30BA) is that I can't figure out how to quickly cycle the bolt without having the spent brass bounce off my hand back into the action. Drives me nuts. Sure, I can do it slowly, but it takes extra time, especially when I'm trying to quickly get off a follow-up shot. Don't know about others here, but I miss from time to time.

Has anyone found factory subsonic ammunition that is stable in this platform?
 
BDunn,
Make sure your hand is in the fist, some guys leave fingers hanging forward and it will cause bouncing. It helps to slide your elbow rearward with your hand to ensure full bolt cycling is happening. Also if your shooting short action cartridges make sure you are using a bolt stop in the rear to shorten your stroke otherwise it will cause bounce back problems.
 
Idea! Official DTA SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Covert owners... I'm wanting a smaller/lighter scope. Anyone have a nf compact 2-10x42 they could post a pic of on covert? Or suggestions of another scope? Requirements are moa and illuminated reticle. I'm not sure that 10x for top magnification will be enough though.

I'm wanting to get a nv clip on and thought there might be enough room with this scope. Can anyone verify or give suggestions to a setup that would fit covert?
 
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894 yd. 51f calm and overcast
140 amax 41.5 h4350 lapua brass fed210 coal 2.872
I dialed 23.75 and zero wind, good thing caus I would have messed it up
I have not shot much since spring, nothing over 350.
I was curious if this load would be good or not since taming her down a bit.

I if take the one bad flier out of the 6 shots the spread is just under 5" across and 3.75" up and down.

I am happy, big confidence booster since I got rid of bender and went back to a nf.
 
Just picked my new SRS A-1 today. I love being 10 minutes from Desert Tech's Facility in UT. Even as a dealer and handling these rifles all the time, I have gotta tell you that it felt like Christmas this afternoon.

 
Curious, has anyone noticed if the DTA SRS factory 338 barrels have a penchant for seating depth?

Thanks
My factory DTA 338 was uber-picky with 300SMK's, 300Scenars, and 250's of the same. However, that all stopped when I switched to Hornady 285's. It shot those like a dream and didn't much care where they were.
 
My factory DTA 338 was uber-picky with 300SMK's, 300Scenars, and 250's of the same. However, that all stopped when I switched to Hornady 285's. It shot those like a dream and didn't much care where they were.

Funny, as my factory barrel is much happier with the 250 scenars vs. the 285 Horns. Groups are close to 0.5 with the scenars vs 1.5 with the 285. I don't know what the deal is?
 
Funny, as my factory barrel is much happier with the 250 scenars vs. the 285 Horns. Groups are close to 0.5 with the scenars vs 1.5 with the 285. I don't know what the deal is?

That's the beauty of barrel harmonics and projectile propulsion consistency... These will be ever so slightly different from barrel to barrel. That's where handloading will greatly help with "harmonic tuning" as in concentrate on the ammunition (charge load & bullet) that works best for your barrel.
 
I just ordered an SRS A1 in 338LM. I have a vortex razor HD 35mm tube. do you guys have any input on what rings I should get for this set up? The gun hasn't showed up yet and I'm trying to get everything lined up before she arrives. Thanks!
 
I just ordered an SRS A1 in 338LM. I have a vortex razor HD 35mm tube. do you guys have any input on what rings I should get for this set up? The gun hasn't showed up yet and I'm trying to get everything lined up before she arrives. Thanks!

Old (I'm not sure if DT still makes them in 35mm) DTA 40 MOA integrated base with rings would be the best, IMHO and in my experience.


Mouse
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DT does not make 35mm mounts any longer.

Sad... In that case, perhaps a used one?

If that old DT mount isn't around any more - what are the alternatives? There are decent Seekins rings in35mm, but LR requires a canted base - and I don't think it's an option with DT...?


Mouse
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