Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

So I finally broke it down and did the Trigger job listed above. Holy smokes what a difference!
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It took about an hour but I did take my time with a file. Pic for attention.
 
Just saw the advertisements for the A2 - what does "35% more accurate" mean? A1 was billed as a true return-to-zero on barrel swaps, now are they claiming 35% more return to zero?
 
Never had any problems with the trigger or barrel swapping on my Gen 1 rifle. Trigger runs about 1.5 lb with no creep. All of the barrels return to zero. I keep a log of where each barrel is zeroed and return there when I swap. Back to zero.....what improvement can you make on that? Have no complaints about weight either. I'm shooting off the ground or a bench and not carrying the rifle anywhere so it makes no difference to me. I'm sure to guys who hunt or have to hike to shooting spots it could help to lose a few pounds though.

Frank
 
Just saw the advertisements for the A2 - what does "35% more accurate" mean? A1 was billed as a true return-to-zero on barrel swaps, now are they claiming 35% more return to zero?


Looks like we started talking about this on Jan 10, around post 10,243, page 205.
The accuracy claim was generated far from a statistical approach. Looks like one barrel was used and swapped back and forth between an A1 and an A2 chassis. Far too many variables involved for me to take that claim seriously. I’m pretty happy with the accuracy of my A1, and I feel I have a heck of a lot more to do with accuracy than the the A1 > A2 changes.
 
If you're looking to pick up another chassis, or you want a Covert, look at EuroOptic. They're liquidating their remaining stock to make room for the A2, so a Covert is $1900, the A1 is $2100, and the lefty A1 is $2200. They also have a couple of conversion kits available for $1100, and that is a complete conversion with bolt and mag.
 
I just got my 6.5prc barrel in for my A2 and I got shipped an A1 bolt instead of an A2 bolt. The A1 bolt feels horrible in the A2. It’s tight and binds up a lot when it’s cycled. Are there any tips to smoothing up the channels inside the skins or any other tips?
 

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Just saw the advertisements for the A2 - what does "35% more accurate" mean? A1 was billed as a true return-to-zero on barrel swaps, now are they claiming 35% more return to zero?
They talk about it in the livestream/launch video they did. If memory serves, the improved accuracy claim comes from the way the A2 clamps the barrel. With the new cutouts, supposedly the A2 clamps the barrel much more evenly than the A1 did.

That's the claim anyway.
 
I just got my 6.5prc barrel in for my A2 and I got shipped an A1 bolt instead of an A2 bolt. The A1 bolt feels horrible in the A2. It’s tight and binds up a lot when it’s cycled. Are there any tips to smoothing up the channels inside the skins or any other tips?


I had no idea that they would be changing the bolt path as a part of the A2. Can anyone confirm this? Or is Skelt11 just experiencing some break-in stiffness that needs to be cycled through?

I’m considering getting an a2 chassis, but it only makes sense financially if I can use all my conversions from my A1.
 
How do you know you got an A1 bolt? Can you tell the difference?
I’m waiting for someone with both bolts to take them apart and show them side by side, and take some measurements. I read somewhere they made some slight changes to the internal components to make them slide a little easier, which helped the external surface of the bolt slide in the chassis. But the bolts would still be the same dimensions and have the same bolt head connections, therefore being backwards compatible with the A1, Gen2, and Gen 1 chassis.
 
How do you know you got an A1 bolt? Can you tell the difference?
I’m waiting for someone with both bolts to take them apart and show them side by side, and take some measurements. I read somewhere they made some slight changes to the internal components to make them slide a little easier, which helped the external surface of the bolt slide in the chassis. But the bolts would still be the same dimensions and have the same bolt head connections, therefore being backwards compatible with the A1, Gen2, and Gen 1 chassis.

the A2 bolt has the fluting in it and coating for better lube... the fluting attracts the dust so the bolt will run smooth
 
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Where can I find a 300 Norma barrel for a Gen 2 A1, preferably a Proof Research? I’ve been trying to decide on whether I should get one or not and I’ve finally decided to get one.
I have been looking into a proof as well. Called and talked with proof about it. You can order a DT contour through any proof dealer. Special purpose rifles may have it in stock, try them
 
the A2 bolt has the fluting in it and coating for better lube... the fluting attracts the dust so the bolt will run smooth

I didn’t notice a coating difference. I called DT and they said the only difference was the fluting but there is definitely a huge difference in feel. Their video on YouTube talked about how it functions smoother but I can’t tell what the difference is other than the fluting. I’ve been cycling it to try to smooth it up so hopefully it improves soon.
 
I have got right at 700 rounds under my A2 bolt and it is smoother than the other one. The first 200 rounds I put alot of grease on it and just worked it after that it has been nice and smooth.
 
I contacted Chad at long rifles reference the bolt fluting. He said that he should be able to make it happen and I’m just waiting to hear back on a price.

Now the hard part, I gave 2 brand new bolts, one short action and one lapua do I send them to chad and have them fluted or sell them and buy two A2 bolts, or just leave them alone?

I have time now as I’m just waiting on my barrels to be spun up and I was told it’s going to be 4-5 weeks before I see those.
 
I’m considering selling my 6.5 SAUM conversion with the SAC modified magazine kit and going after a 33XC. Am I crazy?

No, especially if you have a place to stretch it out. I really debating on the 33xc before I ordered the saum. I would only get to stretch it out once or twice a year so I decided against it since I already had dies for the saum
 
Does anyone have and use the 223 conversion from SAC? How accurate are they and any problems? I am looking at them as well.

I liked mine so much (it can’t be any more accurate) I ordered another 308 barrel from SAC. I’ve used a lot of gunsmiths for builds and David has helped me so much, there is not a bad thing I could say! He has also built 2 PRS guns for me since the conversion as well...both are tack drivers in 6XC and 6.5x47L
 
I will have a 300 PRC conversion kit coming in next week from SAC. This one utilizes a Proof Research barrel. Will post update with pics when it comes.
Very interested to see your results with this. I just got a quote from them last week for a 300PRC conversion. They recommended a 1:8" twist for me(Bartlein blank). After reading the 300PRC thread it sounds like quite a few people are saying 1:8" is too fast. What twist did you go with?
 
Very interested to see your results with this. I just got a quote from them last week for a 300PRC conversion. They recommended a 1:8" twist for me(Bartlein blank). After reading the 300PRC thread it sounds like quite a few people are saying 1:8" is too fast. What twist did you go with?
Went with 1:8. I suggested it, but Mark didn’t raise any issues.