Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Tb
What’s your impression overall of running a carbon wrapped barrel vs standard in an SRS? It would seem like the weight saving would be negligible for many short barrels, but for the 30”+ heavy contour .338 barrels I’ve shot (for example) the reduction would probably be more pronounced?
sorry I wish I could tell you but I have only shot proof stainless barrels and never the carbon wrapped. I actually want as much weight as possible and I cannot stomach three times the cost.
My 338lm recoil is very minimal with a 32”, 1” diameter barrel. Shot 160 rounds last weekend at the nightforce match and zero pain or discomfort after the match.
 
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What’s your impression overall of running a carbon wrapped barrel vs standard in an SRS? It would seem like the weight saving would be negligible for many short barrels, but for the 30”+ heavy contour .338 barrels I’ve shot (for example) the reduction would probably be more pronounced?
I have a 22” CF and a 26” CF barrel. The 26 is materially lighter than a 26” steel.

I don’t have a 22” steel to compare but I find the total package (about 14 lbs with the new Leica 5-30 and a 22” CF barrel) very handy and compact.
 
Anyone know the thread pitch for the A1 handguard rails? Mine broke and the replacement screws sent were too large.
39925A93-0DB1-4478-8FED-23EE1841C381.jpeg
 
Mine are now 8-32 for the steel rail underneath with the bipod mounted. I've repaired quite a number of the BS plastic rails which have broken off and taken the too small metric threads out of the handguard. The plastic rail on my brand new A1 chassis was factory broken so it didn't even make it from utah to pennsylvania in the box. I added a thin steel threaded plate inside since the handguards are so thin and soft. Haven't had a broken one yet......

Screw the metric crap. This is still the USA and I'm not french!


Frank
 
I did my metric time back in the 80s working for a danish company, never again. Inches to the end!!!
works ok with distance and possibly even weights but for a machinist who grew up with inches its not a good swap. A thousandth of an inch is imaginable but a fraction of a mm is just a word.

Just finished up a couple MDR barrels and its a little odd to have an inch thread for the breech and muzzle and then use metric threads and pin dimensions for the gas block. Pick one and stick with it I say.

Frank
 
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Going back to triggers: I feel like there is a silent majority fine without a sub-16oz comp grade triggers. As long as it allows me to hit a 1moa target, i am content with even most AR triggers. Just depends on your use case.

As far as metric vs standard: After working on cars, metric til I die...except on wood and metal machining projects. When it comes to hardware though, I will go out of my way to run metric. Just more common in my hobbies. I am slowly working on using meters instead of yards, but that is a pain in the ass sometimes when I forget to check units on everything.
 
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What is the lightest packing weight you all have been able to get your A2’s to? Please include barrel specs, scope, mounts, etc.
Thanks,
I have a A2 covert coming that is going to have a 18" proof barrel with a fluted shank and a CA slayer titanium brake. It should be as light as you can get in a srs.
 
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Tried the search...no dice.

Debating used A1 vs new A2 covert. What type of speeds and groupings are you folks seeing from the 18" 6.5 creed and factory ammo, figuring 143 hornadys or 130 prime OTMs are the ticket? Is it really a .5 minute rifle all day? How does that translate to the 500, 600, 700 yard gongs?
I have a 19 inch 6.5 creedmoor. A-1 Love it. Shoot 143 Hornady. And as long as I do my part it shoots anything I aim at. Deer. Groundhogs. It can get a little heavy walking thru the woods up n down mountains and hills. But doesn’t feel much differently than my ar10 did weight wise
 
Here are some speeds using Hornady American Gunner 140 gr HPBT in case it’s helpful. This is out of a 22.5” proof barrel. The A2 is substantially lighter than the A1. In my experience, both are half minute guns all day.
 

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Anyone else able to offer up some weights on their rifles? A1 and A2s ideally. I am getting an itch to build a grab-n-go light 6.5CM, but I hate to spend that money when I already have a 16" 6.5CM barrel for my A1. I think I will be ditching the monopod and the bipod is already on a QD mount. I think I recall the A2's big difference coming from the barrel flutes?

Anyone also happen to have a line on monopod caps/covers to fill the hole? Will try to call DT next week and ask them.
 
I'm your Huckleberry....
Here's a bunch of different barrel combinations weighed. This is a Gen 1 SRS (early 2009), no magazine, no monopod, with DTA prototype scope mount, S&B 5-25x, and a custom bipod



Control Group - no barrel - 11lbs


18" .338LM factory barrel + Cadex brake - 14.6lbs


16" .308WIN factory barrel + DTA brake - 13.4lbs


26" 6.5x47L factory barrel + DTA brake - 14.8lbs


28" .300NM custom barrel + APA brake - 19.0lbs


36" .338LM Imp40 custom barrel + APA brake - 23.0lbs


So with my particular rifle, if want to shave weight off I could go for a lighter scope, ditch the bipod, and then stick with a short, thin contour barrel.
 
I'm your Huckleberry....
Here's a bunch of different barrel combinations weighed. This is a Gen 1 SRS (early 2009), no magazine, no monopod, with DTA prototype scope mount.

So with my particular rifle, if want to shave weight off I could go for a lighter scope, ditch the bipod, and then stick with a short, thin contour barrel.

I actually laughed out loud when I got to that 36" .338LM barrel. lol Thanks for that and all of the other useful info!

I am hoping to get to a target weight of 10 lbs max unloaded with my current rifle for walk around usage. I see now that it will be unlikely, even with a thin contour hunter barrel without switching optics and everything. I'll of course do my own weighing and number crunching when I finally get back home. Will likely post images like you for anyone else to reference in the future.

Looks like building a dedicated walking gun is the way to go, unless I want to put my AR on a diet...hmmm...off to that subforum!
 
I actually laughed out loud when I got to that 36" .338LM barrel. lol Thanks for that and all of the other useful info!
I am hoping to get to a target weight of 10 lbs max unloaded with my current rifle for walk around usage. I see now that it will be unlikely, even with a thin contour hunter barrel without switching optics and everything. I'll of course do my own weighing and number crunching when I finally get back home. Will likely post images like you for anyone else to reference in the future.

Looks like building a dedicated walking gun is the way to go, unless I want to put my AR on a diet...hmmm...off to that subforum!



I think my SRS A2 with 22” PROOF barrel, Leica PRS scope (like 36 oz) and hellfire brake is 14ish lbs.

10 lbs would be pushing it. Maybe with a proof barrel, lightweight rings and a Swaro scope.
 
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Indeed. The SRS has always had a weight problem for folks who plan to hump/jump it vs. typical precision rifle shooting. Every time I've humped mine through the bush, I've wished it was on a diet. But outside of long movements with it, the weight was never really much of an issue. The entire concept of the system being "one scope, many rifles in one" has been far too versatile to ignore, so it has consistently stayed my main precision bolt gun. However, if was spending more time stalking and doing long distance patrolling, I'd just build a lightweight 6.5 variant traditional rifle and be done with it. Sure, with a 16" barrel and maybe an NX8, I could probably get the SRS down to 12ish pounds, but that's still about 30% heavier than my LMT MRP w/NX8.
 
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I actually laughed out loud when I got to that 36" .338LM barrel. lol Thanks for that and all of the other useful info!

I am hoping to get to a target weight of 10 lbs max unloaded with my current rifle for walk around usage. I see now that it will be unlikely, even with a thin contour hunter barrel without switching optics and everything. I'll of course do my own weighing and number crunching when I finally get back home. Will likely post images like you for anyone else to reference in the future.

Looks like building a dedicated walking gun is the way to go, unless I want to put my AR on a diet...hmmm...off to that subforum!

I am putting together a A2 covert with a MK5 3.6-18, been trying to get ahold of ES Tact to build a heavily fluted light hunter contour in .300prc. I’ll post weight once it’s all put together.
I ordered a standard contour fluted 18” 6 Creedmoor off of their website that was in stock, hopefully it willbe delivered by next weekend, I’ll post weights from it as well.
 
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The entire concept of the system being "one scope, many rifles in one" has been far too versatile to ignore, so it has consistently stayed my main precision bolt gun. However, if was spending more time stalking and doing long distance patrolling, I'd just build a lightweight 6.5 variant traditional rifle and be done with it. Sure, with a 16" barrel and maybe an NX8, I could probably get the SRS down to 12ish pounds, but that's still about 30% heavier than my LMT MRP w/NX8.

That is kind of where I am at in this idea. I am going to see what it weighs with a A1 Covert, NF ATACR 4-16x42 (30oz), ARC rings, and no bipod or monopod after vacation. If its realistic to pickup a light 6.5CM barrel with some fluting, maybe I go that route...but that money could go towards a cheap dedicated walking gun that is a lot lighter. I already have an extra SWFA 10x in the closet looking for a home. I will keep the DT for my main precision gun when I have the time to set up, or the target is worth the extra precision.

I ordered a standard contour fluted 18” 6 Creedmoor off of their website that was in stock, hopefully it willbe delivered by next weekend, I’ll post weights from it as well.

My 16.5" 6.5CM barrel is from Eric, but went standard Med Palma with no fluting because I didn't plan on chasing weight like this. lol Would love to see your reported weights!
 
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My New A1 full size weighs 18 lb with the 32" 33XC barrel, 5-25 X56 ATACR Nightforce and the picitinney bipod mounting rail, without the can or the bipod. Pretty happy with that. Its a handy carry gun going from the car to the rangehouse, an extended journey averaging anywhere from 20 to as much as 150 feet.
Its a lot lighter with the 30 inch 338 lapua barrel at about 15 lb and with the 338 BR 17" barrel its probably about 13 lb. The 6.5 X 47 and 7.5X55 barrels are both about midway between the 338BR and the 338 Lapua mag. The old codger Gen 1 covert is a little lighter but if weight were the issue I'd be running a remington with a pencil barrel.

Frank
 
Since we’re talking weight again, here’s my previous post on the weight topic.
Just add up your components to get to your weight.

A1 Covert Chassis + Skins, monopod removed: 4 lb 8 oz
Buttpad, no spacers: 7 oz
Buttpad spacer, each: 2.6 oz
A1 Bolt, “308”: 12.2 oz
A2 Bolt, “308”: 12.0 oz
SA 6 Rd Mag, empty: 6.5 oz
Monopod: 5.6 oz
RRS ARCA Plate: 6.2 oz
ARC M10 QD-L 30mm mount: 8.5 oz


Barrel examples:

260 Rem barrel, fluted barrel and tenon, 27”, .920 muzzle with Area 419 adapter: 5 lb 4 oz

300 Win Mag barrel, non fluted, 27”, .850 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 5 lb 1 oz

6xc barrel, non fluted, 27”, .875 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 5 lb 5 oz

308 barrel, non fluted, 17”, .890 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 3 lb 8 oz

450 Bushmaster barrel, non fluted, 23”, .920 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 4 lb 6 oz

260 Rem barrel, non fluted, 19”, .875 muzzle, Area 419 adapter, 4 lb 6 oz

Add up what you’ll need, pick your rings/mount, add your scope weight and total weight of ammo and you should be good.
The A2 chassis saves about a pound, so hopefully someone else can post the exact weight with the bolt, buttpad, magazine removed.
 
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I have both and to tell the truth both have been outstanding. I just got my hunting barrel from ES. It is a 16.5 LH twist 1/10 for a .308 for. my Savage. This will be the second LH twist barrel I have gotten from him. The first was one for my Desert Tech in .308 as well. It still performs in the sub 1/2 to 1/4. Thats when I do my part.
 
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I have a variety of factory barrels from DT (the early ones were from Krieger blanks), and some custom barrel conversions made by SSRNZ (on Bartlein and True Flite blanks), and now some new ones from ES. It's hard to say if any one barrel is better than any other as all have held up well and have been very accurate. The ES barrels are such a good value that it's hard not to just default with them. I don't have personal experience with a SAC barrel, but I've heard very good things about them, and Mark G is known for being a tolerance/concentricity perfectionist.
 
Hondo1 which scope do you like better?

they are each very different. I like everything about the Razor better other than the weight. If they dropped the Razor down to 30oz I would never look at another scope. The Mk5 is a cool little optic as well, I have a few of them and they fit the bill for lighter weight applications.
I have a FIX with a MK5 on it that I have packed for many many miles and I can’t imagine a better package for hunting mule deer here in Colorado.
 
I am thinking about jumping into the DT SRS pool? What are the differences between the A1 and the A2? Is the A2 worth the extra money (Euro Optic still has some A1s)? What accuracy are you seeing with the 6.5CM hunter barrel?

Thanks
 
id be speaking to https://www.carolinasfirstdefense.com/ and having it DLC coated . if i was on your side of the pond id have it done for sure



I've tried his coated bolt and it does improve cycling the bolt. I keep meaning to get mine done as I'm an hour away but always forget. He'll coat other weapons like the AR15 as well. Pretty impressive stuff.
 
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I am thinking about jumping into the DT SRS pool? What are the differences between the A1 and the A2? Is the A2 worth the extra money (Euro Optic still has some A1s)? What accuracy are you seeing with the 6.5CM hunter barrel?

Thanks

The changes to the A2; they milled the receiver to remove excess aluminum, took off a pound or so. They changed the trigger slightly , took away some adjustment. They changed the way the handguard attaches and made it easier to swap.
Anyone please correct me if I’m wrong but those were the notable changes to the A2 chassis From the A1.
I have zero plans to move to the A2.

Is it worth paying extra for the A2? My answer is no way. But that’s all up to you.

Accuracy of the factory barrels are not in question. I’ve put 3 shots in a dime with a 6.5 Creed, 260, and my 6xc barrel. It’s pretty common for most DT owners to do.
 
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