-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
- Thread starter patches
- Start date
Stay strapped or get clapped Homie
No I free climb that thing is a bitch to shoot off of with the railings around the middle 2-3’ and having to shoot off a tripod over the round hole cover
And by free climb I mean a ladder with a safety cage but no intermediate rest stops
No I free climb that thing is a bitch to shoot off of with the railings around the middle 2-3’ and having to shoot off a tripod over the round hole cover
And by free climb I mean a ladder with a safety cage but no intermediate rest stops
I always lock the bolt down, then turn the barrel lock and lastly tighten the barrel from front to rear.
That simple What I do is to zero your main barrel that you plan on using the most. I'd would suggest you zero between 100 yards to 200 yards. So this will give you room to find out your zero for your next barrel. Then record that zero. Then move to the next barrel. When I switch barrels I keep the same process. I put the barrel in then turn the barrel counter clock wise and hold it there then close the bolt then torque it down top to bottom.
Then I shoot at the same distance that zeroed with your first barrel. Be sure to use the grid style targets. It will help you to find out your zero on barrel #2. Barrel 2 will shoot high or low then find the elevation zero. It could be 125 yard zero or something different, just have to learn to work with it. ALL you need is to know how far left or right you have to correct in your scope. Then just use your scope for the wind. Make sure you put how many clicks for windage on your range card so you won't forget it. When you switch back to you main barrel you go back to zero on your windage. Hope this make sense.
So am I the only one that does NOT have elevation changes when I switch barrels? When I switch to my .375 or shitty .50 BMG barrel elevation does not change but .375 is 4” right and .50 is 9” right.
No it would be 5 inch right in MOA OR MIL for or 50. And it would be back to zero windage with your 375 if that's your Main barrel. The elevation zero will differ for everyone when you switch barrels. One barrel could be a 176yrd zero while another could be 92 yrd zero. As long as you know your windage zero for each barrel. Elevation/DOPE on your scope is easy.
Last edited:
Tracking that. I was pointing out that at 100 meters the POI for my .375 barrel is 4” right and the .50 is 9” right when compared to the barrel kit that the scope is currently 0’d at. elevation wise both the .375&.50 do not have a POI shift.
So basically two of my barrels POI is right at 100 when compared to the barrel the scope is 0’d to.
Do your other barrels favor a left or right direction when compared to the barrel that you have your scope 0’d to?
What grain & type of bullet was the 680 yard kill? Do you think the bullet fragmented or just yawed?
Thank you
Got these really awesome custom 3D printed cleaning guides that are designed specifically for the Desert Tech SRS A1 and A2 barrels. They fit nice and snug and have a dedicated solvent port, really super cool design. I have used several cleaning guides on my SRS barrels and this is by far the best designed ones yet for the task.
Contact user name pfl338 here on the hide if you are interested in some. Good guy to deal with.
Contact user name pfl338 here on the hide if you are interested in some. Good guy to deal with.
Hey Gents, just wanted to share that I have a 6.5 PRC barrel in the PX forum. 24", 7 twist, spiral flute with 5/8x24 thread, also comes with a Short Action Customs 6 round modified magazine (sold as a pair). Hoping to move it quickly, due to some medical stuff. Listed price on the PX can be negotiable, just DM me. Bought it from a Hide member, never got a chance to use it, would like to find it a good home.
So I have a local guy interested in my SRS A1. I'm not sure if I'm willing to let it go if the value of the A1s have dropped too much since they stopped making them. I'd like to get your guys opinion on it's value. The ones in the PX aren't close to mine so it's hard to get a good estimate.
Let me make it clear I have zero interest in selling it on here or parting it out or doing anything on here other than getting it's general value.
It has:
3 6 creed barrels all with decent life left and 1 7 saum barrel will only a 100rds on it. 2 extensions with a extension wrench.
A 10 and 6 round 308/creed mags, a 5 and 7 round 300wm mags.
308/creed bolt and 300wm bolts that are DLC coated.
RRS and Sawtooth arca rails.
Cleaning rod guild.
Let me make it clear I have zero interest in selling it on here or parting it out or doing anything on here other than getting it's general value.
It has:
3 6 creed barrels all with decent life left and 1 7 saum barrel will only a 100rds on it. 2 extensions with a extension wrench.
A 10 and 6 round 308/creed mags, a 5 and 7 round 300wm mags.
308/creed bolt and 300wm bolts that are DLC coated.
RRS and Sawtooth arca rails.
Cleaning rod guild.
I hate scammers and fraudsters and would like to kick all their testicles in, but I have to say, if in 2023 you're moronic enough to pay for anything online using Zelle or cryptocurrency because CC is not offered, you kinda deserve what you get, which is defrauded
deserttechfirearmsusa.com
Contact | Desert Tech Firearms USA
deserttechfirearmsusa.com
Because the telltale sign of a scammer site has been "we only take Zelle or Bitcoin"
Sorry if this is a repeat question but I couldn't find the answer using the search function. I have an A2 and I have adjusted the trigger as far as I can to a lighter pull weight and it is still over 3.5 lbs. DT claims the A2 trigger is adjustable down to 1.5 lbs, but mine will not adjust that light. My son has an A2 and his adjusted right down to 1.5 lbs. I really want a lighter trigger but I am not sure what to do. Any suggestions?
If you cant get your trigger adjusted under 3.5 lbs, I’d start by contacting Desert Tech about a warranty claim to see if they can get you a new trigger.
I will definitely go the warranty route if that is my only option and nobody knows of a work around. I love my DTs but I hate trying to get warranty service from Desert Tech. It is very difficult to get satisfactory results from them or the dealers I have bought from. I have 2 A2s and an HTI and I live 15 miles from DT headquarters but I've never had much luck getting a warranty issue taken care of in a timely manner or in a satisfactory way. It seems like DT and their dealers are happy to sell you a rifle but not so great on warranty follow up. Just my two bits.
With some constructive criticism from you lads and some time to play with the various cases and foam patterns I've accumulated out in the real world I was able to figure out some optimizations. So, allow me to introduce you to the latest iteration and see what y'all think. The last version held 5x barrels, 7x 5rd magazinesand had a dedicated space for my PVS-30.
The previous version also lacked a dedicated spot for a cleaning rod but had extra depth so I had to cut a notch on the underside for that after the fact. Where the last design was meant for storage this design is meant for travel, international travel in particular. That being the case, this one eschews the night vision that can't go with me, allows for the soft case inside the hard case, adds finger notches to the magazine cutouts, puts the butt of the rifle at the wheel end, adds a dedicated shelf for the Dewey rod, improves the fit of the cutout for the maintenance kit, reduces the number of barrels supported to 4, sets up individual barrel support at the ends with vertical buffer space between each barrel to keep them from clanging on each other, tunes for the exact length of my .223rem/.308win/.338wm/.338LM barrels with the brakes they're supposed to have on them including a slight interference fit on the length and the width, adds barrel specific finger notches to one end of the barrel cutouts and, finally, normalizes the spacing between similar adjacent cutouts.
Other little tweaks that might not be obvious, it'll now take 3x of each of the 8rd long action, 10rd short action and 10rd .223 mags along with 8x of the assorted available 5rd mags. And lastly, the heaviest bits (barrels) are now located near the hinge instead of near the latches. Otherwise it still holds 4 bolts outside of the receiver and keeps the butt pad and spacers off the gun. Some cutouts that used to be for ammo are sized now for other odds and ends that I need like flashlight heads/bodies/tail-caps, special tools, arca/picatinny adapters, etc..
Having excised the barrels that are meant to go with me, having no ammo in it (I have plenty where I go) and not providing storage for things like special batteries, spare scope caps, rarely used tools and other bits that I don't need except for special occasions I'm pretty sure that the total weight will end up at or just under 70lbs which is the max for business class air travel on all the airlines I've used for international travel.
Enjoy.
Getting the 5rd mags out could be annoying so I added finger notches at their noses and figured might as well for the 8rd & 10rd mags. You can see the stair step style barrel supports at the upper right and the finger notches for the barrels, each of which only goes down as far as needed. The .308 barrel stays in the rifle chassis which helps even out the weight distribution a bit.
You can see the cleaning rod ledge at bottom. It also helps to align and control the soft case which acts as a top pad in concert with the actual lid foam.
Of course as I gain time with the modelling system at mycasebuilder.com my ability to create increasingly intricate designs has increased. If DT would get off their butts and spend a little effort they could create usable foam for their hard case. This is not for an OEM DT hard case, this is for a 42.5x17 SKB case. I could fit most things in the DT hard case; just not the soft case which is stupid, with the right foam but I like the extra height of this one and that the soft case can fit in it with very little persuading.
The previous version also lacked a dedicated spot for a cleaning rod but had extra depth so I had to cut a notch on the underside for that after the fact. Where the last design was meant for storage this design is meant for travel, international travel in particular. That being the case, this one eschews the night vision that can't go with me, allows for the soft case inside the hard case, adds finger notches to the magazine cutouts, puts the butt of the rifle at the wheel end, adds a dedicated shelf for the Dewey rod, improves the fit of the cutout for the maintenance kit, reduces the number of barrels supported to 4, sets up individual barrel support at the ends with vertical buffer space between each barrel to keep them from clanging on each other, tunes for the exact length of my .223rem/.308win/.338wm/.338LM barrels with the brakes they're supposed to have on them including a slight interference fit on the length and the width, adds barrel specific finger notches to one end of the barrel cutouts and, finally, normalizes the spacing between similar adjacent cutouts.
Other little tweaks that might not be obvious, it'll now take 3x of each of the 8rd long action, 10rd short action and 10rd .223 mags along with 8x of the assorted available 5rd mags. And lastly, the heaviest bits (barrels) are now located near the hinge instead of near the latches. Otherwise it still holds 4 bolts outside of the receiver and keeps the butt pad and spacers off the gun. Some cutouts that used to be for ammo are sized now for other odds and ends that I need like flashlight heads/bodies/tail-caps, special tools, arca/picatinny adapters, etc..
Having excised the barrels that are meant to go with me, having no ammo in it (I have plenty where I go) and not providing storage for things like special batteries, spare scope caps, rarely used tools and other bits that I don't need except for special occasions I'm pretty sure that the total weight will end up at or just under 70lbs which is the max for business class air travel on all the airlines I've used for international travel.
Enjoy.
Getting the 5rd mags out could be annoying so I added finger notches at their noses and figured might as well for the 8rd & 10rd mags. You can see the stair step style barrel supports at the upper right and the finger notches for the barrels, each of which only goes down as far as needed. The .308 barrel stays in the rifle chassis which helps even out the weight distribution a bit.
You can see the cleaning rod ledge at bottom. It also helps to align and control the soft case which acts as a top pad in concert with the actual lid foam.
Of course as I gain time with the modelling system at mycasebuilder.com my ability to create increasingly intricate designs has increased. If DT would get off their butts and spend a little effort they could create usable foam for their hard case. This is not for an OEM DT hard case, this is for a 42.5x17 SKB case. I could fit most things in the DT hard case; just not the soft case which is stupid, with the right foam but I like the extra height of this one and that the soft case can fit in it with very little persuading.
Good god
How much does it weigh?
And is it stationary or portable?
It’s obvious you can’t fly with it
How much does it weigh?
And is it stationary or portable?
It’s obvious you can’t fly with it
It should come in right at 70lbs, as noted in the write up.
It's got wheels, fairly certain that's been noted.
I specifically mention that it will fly, internationally, and even what fare class is needed for the weight.
Yes and nope. The extra weight helps recoil a bit and I suspect the extra rigidity helps accuracy.
Was considering it for the same reason, especially since I don't plan to pack my DTA for long hikes
It depends how much velocity you want to squeeze out of the cartridge vs length & weight. I shoot .338 LM Improved barrels that are 36” long. For .300NM I started with 28” but am moving up to 30” and 34”. I think for the vast majority of short action and non-magnum barrels going longer than 26” quickly hits a point of diminishing returns. There is definitely a sweet spot with barrel length where you’re maximizing time under pressure to increase velocity, but going too long results in more time under friction and moving past the pressure peak. It’s all about optimization.
I had a 30” 1.35 straight krieger in 338 LM that shot pretty good. Went 32” Lilja on the most recent one. With a TBAC Ultra that’s about as long as you should go.
The go-to guy for me is always ES-Tactical, but you have to call Eric Smith to ask about turn-around times which vary depending upon his other obligations. I have a375 barrel and reamer I've been meaning to take to him. If anybody learns current times, please post
Short Action Customs is also cutting barrels. I have a couple of them. Really nice work.
Does anyone have word on if/when Blklbl bipods is releasing their handguard/bipod for the SRS? I know Forgotten Weapons teased it in the video from SHOT Show 2022. I’d like the ability to reduce snag points but keep the bipod capability, especially when hunting.
I get a little sketched out by built-in bipods. Probably just echos of Kel-Tec's Su-16 and Steyr's Scout rifle dancing in my head. In any event, snaggletooth bipod issues were up front in my list of things to not have problems with. Most of my shooting is done under field conditions anymore, prefaced by long walks through rough and brushy country. I tried both the UTG over bore bipod and the Fortmeier. They each have their ups and downs. I ended up modifying the Fortmeier to allow 180deg leg rotation with locks every 45deg. When the legs are stowed they run back along the top 45deg slanted section toward the scope so they're not out front grabbing bushes and branches. Not as slick sided as the blklbl but likely a lot sturdier. The legs can lock in the forward position if I want but I never do that. If you want to try it out, I have a spare UTG over bore that I modified a little for more cant capacity. You're welcome to test it out, just cover the cost of shipping which would be about 10 bucks. Hang on to it for however long you need to decide if it's a viable option. Just a thought.
Here's the Fortmeier on the rifle and the UTG just in front of the muzzle.
And the modification I made to the Fortmeier to get 45deg notches instead of just 90deg notches. Silver bits are where I notched it.
Here's the Fortmeier on the rifle and the UTG just in front of the muzzle.
And the modification I made to the Fortmeier to get 45deg notches instead of just 90deg notches. Silver bits are where I notched it.
I concur.I get a little sketched out by built-in bipods. Probably just echos of Kel-Tec's Su-16 and Steyr's Scout rifle dancing in my head. In any event, snaggletooth bipod issues were up front in my list of things to not have problems with. Most of my shooting is done under field conditions anymore, prefaced by long walks through rough and brushy country. I tried both the UTG over bore bipod and the Fortmeier. They each have their ups and downs. I ended up modifying the Fortmeier to allow 180deg leg rotation with locks every 45deg. When the legs are stowed they run back along the top 45deg slanted section toward the scope so they're not out front grabbing bushes and branches. Not as slick sided as the blklbl but likely a lot sturdier. The legs can lock in the forward position if I want but I never do that. If you want to try it out, I have a spare UTG over bore that I modified a little for more cant capacity. You're welcome to test it out, just cover the cost of shipping which would be about 10 bucks. Hang on to it for however long you need to decide if it's a viable option. Just a thought.
Here's the Fortmeier on the rifle and the UTG just in front of the muzzle.
And the modification I made to the Fortmeier to get 45deg notches instead of just 90deg notches. Silver bits are where I notched it.
I tried the BLK LBL on the MDRX. It was… good enough. Kept the rifle lighter. But less stiff during prone shooting.
I like my Atlas for a reason and keep the legs tucked under the stock (180*?) when I as worried about snags.
Hi everyone, first post here.
Finally in a position where I might be able to pick up my grail gun (or one of them at least) - an SRS. Was thinking of a Covert/18”6.5CM to start, something that can pull double duty as a suppressed hunting rifle and hopefully hit plates up to 1000m. I also have access to a mile range here, so there’s room to grow. I have an Sig SRD338 and Leupold mk6 3-18x sitting around waiting for a host as well, so I figure they’d all make a good combo.
My problem though, is I have never so much as seen an SRS in person, let alone handle one. I can’t find a single dealer in the state that has one on hand. Anyone in NC able to let me see their gun in person before I pull the proverbial trigger?
Finally in a position where I might be able to pick up my grail gun (or one of them at least) - an SRS. Was thinking of a Covert/18”6.5CM to start, something that can pull double duty as a suppressed hunting rifle and hopefully hit plates up to 1000m. I also have access to a mile range here, so there’s room to grow. I have an Sig SRD338 and Leupold mk6 3-18x sitting around waiting for a host as well, so I figure they’d all make a good combo.
My problem though, is I have never so much as seen an SRS in person, let alone handle one. I can’t find a single dealer in the state that has one on hand. Anyone in NC able to let me see their gun in person before I pull the proverbial trigger?
I might just buy the Fortmier. I like the look of yours and it sounds a good bit more sturdy than the Blklbl. I was willing to sacrifice some sturdiness for the low drag form factor, but it appears that I can have a more sturdiness and get 75% of the way. Thanks for the advice.I get a little sketched out by built-in bipods. Probably just echos of Kel-Tec's Su-16 and Steyr's Scout rifle dancing in my head. In any event, snaggletooth bipod issues were up front in my list of things to not have problems with. Most of my shooting is done under field conditions anymore, prefaced by long walks through rough and brushy country. I tried both the UTG over bore bipod and the Fortmeier. They each have their ups and downs. I ended up modifying the Fortmeier to allow 180deg leg rotation with locks every 45deg. When the legs are stowed they run back along the top 45deg slanted section toward the scope so they're not out front grabbing bushes and branches. Not as slick sided as the blklbl but likely a lot sturdier. The legs can lock in the forward position if I want but I never do that. If you want to try it out, I have a spare UTG over bore that I modified a little for more cant capacity. You're welcome to test it out, just cover the cost of shipping which would be about 10 bucks. Hang on to it for however long you need to decide if it's a viable option. Just a thought.
Here's the Fortmeier on the rifle and the UTG just in front of the muzzle.
And the modification I made to the Fortmeier to get 45deg notches instead of just 90deg notches. Silver bits are where I notched it.
What part of NC? I come through Asheville a couple times a year to see my mentor and his family.
