Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread
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i had that problem with my .338 but it wasn't the gun it turned out to be a cheaper grade of brass, changed brass and i haven't had another problem.
Thanks, I thought it turned out well. It's dura coat done by Allen of metalxworks in Cambridge OH. Kinda wish I had went with my original plan of fde base instead of od.
Did a little suppressor testing with my SRS today. The rifle worked great and the old can didn't affect the accuracy as I thought it might....rumors that K baffles are bad for accuracy seem to be overrated. The new can didn't do so well as the last shot was about 8 inches right of point of aim.... launched the tube and baffles downrange when the threads on the tube let go of the endcap. .338 Lapua Mag is a bit much for a can of that size and type. Recoil from a 2lb can fired 37yds is a bit rough as well. Finally tried using a rear sandbag because I'm still waiting for my monopod kit to make it in. That fixed my problem with shooting decent groups. The old can with just under 1000rds of .338 LM through it worked great. Shot a 5rd 100yd group that a dime covered. Swapped the 6.5 X 47 barrel into the rifle and the .338 can made it very quiet. The new can was pretty quiet with the .338 BR and compared to the old unit it was hard to tell which worked best. I'm sticking with welded cans for the high power stuff from now on though. Quiet doesn't matter if the can comes apart.
A few pics....
The pics of the .338 LM group with and without the dime cover, pics of my SRS in green with the can on both the .338LM barrel (black) and the stainless 6.5 X 47 barrel. The flat dark earth rifle is my friends. We were using it to compare the suppressors in real time.
Frank
A few pics....
The pics of the .338 LM group with and without the dime cover, pics of my SRS in green with the can on both the .338LM barrel (black) and the stainless 6.5 X 47 barrel. The flat dark earth rifle is my friends. We were using it to compare the suppressors in real time.
Frank
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Awesome Frank!!
I can't wait to get mine together so I can come play!! Give me two weeks!!
Hey guys, I have researched the 7WSM as suggested by many for the ELR caliber and I like the sound of this caliber; however, do you think I would be better off going with a 16" 308 (closer ranges), the 7WSM (in place of the 260 REM), and 338 LM for ELR? What are your thoughts? Do the 6.5 and 7 mm calibers cause a redundancy in range capibility or do you think its worth having the 260 REM and 7WSM?
Thanks again.
No, I have a 260, and a 7WSM for my SRS. The 260 is fine out to 1200 but when I want to reach out and thump something and see the impact and cheat the wind better I use my 7WSM (great round). Even further and better I use my custom 338LM. If any of those you mention are redundant it would be the 308 to the 260, only down side to the 260 is barrel life compared to the 308.
JM .02
Sully
JM .02
Sully
I'll probably actually get a .50 HTI, BUT I'm interested in the .416 simply to tinker with it. Chey-tac brass is high$$$$ (Chey-Tac is the best thing going right now). 416 Barrett isn't cheap; however, I have a ton of .50 brass. If I can get a die/mint from CH4D or comparable place I'll be in business. I'll do a majority of my shooting with the SRS. I might be able to convince myself to hunt with the .416, just a thought.
Just ordered my DTA SRS A1 in 308 today after seeing and shooting one for the first time today. All 3 round groups 0.5 MOA at 100 yds. with and without suppressor. Gun didn't have A1 mods, but a pure pleasure to shoot and great ergonomically. Barrel changes easy and took less than a minute. I'll give you all a range report once mine arrives. Excited today and I'm stoked tonight. Hope I'll be able to sleep.
Does anyone know if the new style butt pad will work on an early model covert without modification? My dealer seems to think there is a compatibility issue, but I am hopeful he is incorrect.
Just ordered the A1 from Alan at Top Notch... very excited.
Just ordered the A1 from Alan at Top Notch... very excited.
I'm getting ahead of myself here because I don't have one yet but it there a way to mount a clip-on nv device on a covert chassis? I don't have enough room in front of the scope on mine, perhaps with a NXS compact or other small scope maybe. Either a Larue STOMP or some sort of rail extension to hang it out over the can would be needed for most scopes.
I think something to make it possible would be awesome.
I think something to make it possible would be awesome.
I sure will. Now i have to decide what caliber to do for my second barrel. It will be for elk hunting, any thoughts from the group?
How does gen II differ from gen I, sorry for the noob question. Also, does any body know of a supplier that has chassis in stock. Thanks guys.
If thats the case then you may just have to go with a STOMP or some such thing.
My first cal is 308. I have always used a 7mm win mag and I'm just trying to figure out if it's worth going to the wsm calibers
I am getting a 308 kit. Which length should I go with. I am planning to go out to 1000 yards. What is the velocity difference between the 22 and the 26"?
Not alot, I would make the decision depending on what you plan to do with it. If you are a bench, prone,F/TR type, then the 26 would probably be fine. If you are a Hunter, tactical match, LE type shooter then maybe the 22 would better serve you. In a .308 I would always go short, the 22 is plenty long to do almost anything. I have the 16" covert barrel and it suits me fine. If I'm shooting beyond 1K I just slide in the .260rem.
ETA: if you plan on running a suppressor, then definitley go 22"
I odered my A1 about a month ago, cant wait! 
As for my calibers I chose to get it in .308 22" for "practice" and ordered a SAC 26" 300 WM for hunting and LR shooting!
As for my calibers I chose to get it in .308 22" for "practice" and ordered a SAC 26" 300 WM for hunting and LR shooting!
I odered my A1 about a month ago, cant wait!
As for my calibers I chose to get it in .308 22" for "practice" and ordered a SAC 26" 300 WM for hunting and LR shooting!
Excellent choices!!
I have no complaints with my shark suppressor on my 16", however accuracy is not what it should be with or without can.
Here is my srs 338 Lapua and hti 50
The srs has a buttpad and cheek piece from Brian and its awesome !
Srs is super accurate and only shot hti first time today with federal eagle fmj and it did really well.
375 cheytac and ammo are on order as well as night force beast! Atacr is on it right now.
The srs has a buttpad and cheek piece from Brian and its awesome !
Srs is super accurate and only shot hti first time today with federal eagle fmj and it did really well.
375 cheytac and ammo are on order as well as night force beast! Atacr is on it right now.
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Wolffman, I would really like to hear everything you can tell me about your HTI .50. Overall impressions, recoil, back blast, accuracy, function, anything else you can think of. Will most likely be my next rifle.
No sir, thats not at all what I meant, in a whole year and three barrels I have probably fired less than 100 rounds unsuppressed. All but maybe 10 of those were fired in the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia, and for that reason only. My 16" covert barrel is a beauty to behold, especially with my can screwed on the end of it. It shoots very accurately, as do all my barrels, with the can on. You will have no troubles running your 16" .308 suppressed.
The recoil is not near as bad as I thought it would be. I previously owned an armalite ar50.
Blast is there but again not terrible. Now the percussion you get it is definitely noticeable, not unbearable but does grab ur attention.
The pic is first 2 rounds high and left and last 2 right of bullseye with 633 gr fmj factory ammo at 100 yards.
I plan on running 750 gr amax and have some dta ammo on order and will be reloading as well.
So far I am very pleased and look forward to future range time with it, 375, and the beast !
Blast is there but again not terrible. Now the percussion you get it is definitely noticeable, not unbearable but does grab ur attention.
The pic is first 2 rounds high and left and last 2 right of bullseye with 633 gr fmj factory ammo at 100 yards.
I plan on running 750 gr amax and have some dta ammo on order and will be reloading as well.
So far I am very pleased and look forward to future range time with it, 375, and the beast !
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DAMN! Is that a ATACR sitting in a Spur atop a HTI!!! Please show us more pics of that set up.....a lot more!
Me too. I wish the standard forearm was wide enough to stick a can underneath with a 16" barrel.
Is their a reason to not go to the shorter lighter covert handguard. I can't figure out why I would want the longer hand guard. I have the standard srs coming but I am thinking I will want the covert hand guard. Is their any problem running long barrels as far as balance on the covert? thanks in advance for the thoughts
No problem running long barrels in a covert, the only difference I can think of might be from balancing on the bipod. The center of gravity would change while on the bipod. I can see how some might find that difference to their liking, but it is a very minute difference to me. I dont see a problem at all with what you are proposing.
Well said Cbm, my 2 cents...
Had the long srs gen 1 and sold it to get covert, love it! No regrets, I run a 26" 260. On the long hand guard I ran atlas about half way back and on the covert it's about 3 notches back, so it's about the same placement.
How do I decide on which scope base to acquire? What are the limitations on the 20, 30 and 40 moa bases?
Thanks.
Thanks.
For most higher-end scopes there are no limitations of the 20, 30, and 40moa mounts (I prefer one-piece mounts over a canted riser plus rings) due to the high amount of internal travel. The only "inconvenience" would be getting the height correct so the objective clears the rail, but I guarantee you SOMEbody has that info for your scope/mount combo (unless you bought a Limited Black Ops Titanium Series Countersniper that is....). Lower cost scopes tend to have less internal reticle travel and if paired with a canted base may not be able to achieve a 100yd zero.
As for determining what mount to go with, determine the longest distance you will want to shoot and with what caliber. Find the drop in mils or moa and compare it to your scope's internal travel. Then use that info to shop for a mount with the correct cant. Here is an example:
1- I want to ultimately shoot 338LM using DTM ammo at 2000yds someday. (http://www.deserttacticalarms.com/ammunition/dtm-338-lm-200-rond-case-225.html)
2- Using JBM, a G1 of .736, MV 2730fps, and today's conditions, that will be a drop of 98.1 moa from a 100yd zero (http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi)
3- I would like to use a NF Beast with 120 moa of travel. Assume roughly 50% elevation for a 100yd zero (60 moa available travel up and 60 moa available travel down).
4- Use the equation: Total Drop = Available Scope Elevation + Base/Mount Cant. So 98.1 moa = 60 moa + Base/Mount Cant (moa). So my mount would need 38.1 moa of cant for me to dial to 2000yds.
5- Shop for mounts with 40 moa (fudge-factor) or more of cant.
Once you know your target cant, you can go shopping a lot easier. Spuhr, DTA, Larue, GDI, AADMount, and others make excellent one-piece mounts. If you have any questions, I'm sure we'll help where we can!
The longest ill shoot will be around 1500yds with a .300 win mag out of a USO. I will have to see what amount of travel I have and run the numbers. Thanks again.
My USO 5-25x58 fits fine with a 30moa mount and I've heard that it works on a 40moa mount - not sure if he had the sunshade on his or not. Mine fits with it and I have plenty of travel for the 300wm.
A little while back somebody was wanting to trade a covert hand guard for a full length. I tried searching and couldn't find it. Does anybody know who it was or is maybe that person is lurking around this thread.
Thanks
Thanks
