Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

#9,756
Conrad said:
Ty passed his barrel business on to DRM LLC, also in Las Vegas.
Click to expand...


Actually DMR has always been in the background spinning up the barrels for Ty. When Ty stepped away to focus on other things, you just dealt direct with DMR, so you still got the same quality barrel and fast turn around.

http://dmr-llc.com/

The great thing is there are so many options with the amount of gunsmith’s out there it’s hard to go wrong.
 
#9,757
A couple reloading questions for you all, i've got an SRS and HTI that i just picked up 338 and 375 Factory conversion kits for.
  • .375CT
    • What's your go to load for long range steel?
    • Anyone tried the Lehigh 353gr copper solids? They look appealing on paper. Can't find much info on them in the forums.
    • Also looking at the cutting Edge 352 MTAC that DT uses in their factory loads, you guys have good luck with em?
  • .338
    • same question, your favorite load for stretching it out on steel?
    • I'm looking at the Cutting edge MTAC 277's, 285 ELD M's, and the berger 300 OTM's
 
#9,758
Just arrived, getting ready for two tone Forest Green & OD Green Cerakote!

868D5032-A5B6-4866-8C03-39A3DE5B1FBC.jpeg
 
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#9,760
FingerBlaster said:
A couple reloading questions for you all, i've got an SRS and HTI that i just picked up 338 and 375 Factory conversion kits for.
  • .375CT
    • What's your go to load for long range steel?
    • Anyone tried the Lehigh 353gr copper solids? They look appealing on paper. Can't find much info on them in the forums.
    • Also looking at the cutting Edge 352 MTAC that DT uses in their factory loads, you guys have good luck with em?
  • .338
    • same question, your favorite load for stretching it out on steel?
    • I'm looking at the Cutting edge MTAC 277's, 285 ELD M's, and the berger 300 OTM's
Click to expand...
Started with H1000 with the 285ELD but switched over to Retumbo for more speed and better SDs. Currently loading them with 92.4gr and getting 2890fps from a 32” barrel. Good results at a mile and even as far as 2000 yards.
 
#9,763
Had one of my mags Black oxide coated today , wanted to see how they would turn out . The older grey finish was scratched and looked pretty average .
I think I'll get the rest of them sand blasted and oxide coated .

Anyone done their Bolt ? Thinking of doing that also
 

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#9,768
I have a TS Customs and an SAC both in 7 LRM. Both shoot very well but the TS was much more forgiving, easier to load for and shoots more consistent 1/4” groups. My next Barrel will be a 6.5 x47 from Travis.
 
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#9,773
probably covered somewhere in this form already, but wanted to know how DT owners have done with 308 subonic rounds. 300 blackout is awesome but owning a more versatile barrel is preferred in my opinion.

Anyone using 1/8 twists with success? 1/10 or 1/11?
 
#9,776
I guess you have to ask yourself what your intent is with subsonics. If you actually intend to hunt or otherwise use them for disabling a target than the idea is to retain as much energy as you can while keeping the speed below the sound barrier for noise reduction. To do that you need the heaviest bullet you can shoot and that normally means you need a faster twist rate to keep them stable. Bouncing them through your baffles kind of defeats the purpose. You can frequently use round nose bullets with some of the slower twists but not always.

If you're just doing it because its cool to shoot quietly and downrange effect is not a consideration then just keep going lighter with the bullet weights til you can maintain stability. I see a lot of guys doing that. What good is it to shoot .223 with 45 gr bullets subsonic when you can just shoot the 60gr Aquila 22LR ammo through a much cheaper gun. Why waste time with 110gr 308 bullets subsonic? Just can't understand the draw there.....

As an owner of an SRS I would think swapping barrels to something more dedicated to the round you want to shoot would be the ideal way to go. If you want to shoot subs get a barrel made for it. If you want to shoot supers there is a barrel for that too. It takes me under a minute to swap them out if I have to change the bolt too....less if its just a barrel change.

I have a 338 Lapua Mag to put 250-300 gr bullets out a thousand yards or more with some energy to spare. Why waste time using that barrel for subs? I have a 338BR barrel I made to shoot the much smaller 308 based case and 300 gr 338 bullets subsonic. It has an appropriate twist rate for the subsonics at 1-8 and I don't have to screw up my long range 338LM barrel or spit out tiny bullets to keep them stable with the 1-10 rate that barrel has. Each has its purpose and I think if cost were really the primary consideration everyone would be shooting savage 110s. Obviously we're not so why cheap out on the subsonic stuff and adapt equipment not really intended for the purpose?

6.5mm subsonics? whats the point? .510 subsonics....that makes some sense. Tossing a 700gr bullet accurately with very low noise is pretty appealing. Tossing a 140gr telephone pole with marginal accuracy from a barrel intended to run a lot faster......maybe for toy type use but not much point I can see.

I love my 12.7 X 48 (510 whisper equivalent). Its quiet, I can run active bullets as in tracer, API, APIT or very accurate Hornady AMAX. It uses the 338 LM bolt and cut down 338LM cases. 28 gr of 2400 or AA1680 works great for the 650 gr bullets so not a powder hog like the 338 Lapua Mag. Surplus bullets are cheap though the AMAX is up there so you can load and shoot cheap if you want or go for accuracy which usually costs anyway. I know a couple guys hunting with this round subsonic and it leaves a big leaky hole.

I suppose to each his own. I can't see the point of racing my station wagon or using the Miata for a pickup....they'll both do the job if forced but not really intended for it. My own opinions of course and you may or may not agree. Just food for thought.

Frank
 
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#9,778
biffj said:
I guess you have to ask yourself what your intent is with subsonics. If you actually intend to hunt or otherwise use them for disabling a target than the idea is to retain as much energy as you can while keeping the speed below the sound barrier for noise reduction. To do that you need the heaviest bullet you can shoot and that normally means you need a faster twist rate to keep them stable. Bouncing them through your baffles kind of defeats the purpose. You can frequently use round nose bullets with some of the slower twists but not always.

If you're just doing it because its cool to shoot quietly and downrange effect is not a consideration then just keep going lighter with the bullet weights til you can maintain stability. I see a lot of guys doing that. What good is it to shoot .223 with 45 gr bullets subsonic when you can just shoot the 60gr Aquila 22LR ammo through a much cheaper gun. Why waste time with 110gr 308 bullets subsonic? Just can't understand the draw there.....

As an owner of an SRS I would think swapping barrels to something more dedicated to the round you want to shoot would be the ideal way to go. If you want to shoot subs get a barrel made for it. If you want to shoot supers there is a barrel for that too. It takes me under a minute to swap them out if I have to change the bolt too....less if its just a barrel change.

I have a 338 Lapua Mag to put 250-300 gr bullets out a thousand yards or more with some energy to spare. Why waste time using that barrel for subs? I have a 338BR barrel I made to shoot the much smaller 308 based case and 300 gr 338 bullets subsonic. It has an appropriate twist rate for the subsonics at 1-8 and I don't have to screw up my long range 338LM barrel or spit out tiny bullets to keep them stable with the 1-10 rate that barrel has. Each has its purpose and I think if cost were really the primary consideration everyone would be shooting savage 110s. Obviously we're not so why cheap out on the subsonic stuff and adapt equipment not really intended for the purpose?

6.5mm subsonics? whats the point? .510 subsonics....that makes some sense. Tossing a 700gr bullet accurately with very low noise is pretty appealing. Tossing a 140gr telephone pole with marginal accuracy from a barrel intended to run a lot faster......maybe for toy type use but not much point I can see.

I love my 12.7 X 48 (510 whisper equivalent). Its quiet, I can run active bullets as in tracer, API, APIT or very accurate Hornady AMAX. It uses the 338 LM bolt and cut down 338LM cases. 28 gr of 2400 or AA1680 works great for the 650 gr bullets so not a powder hog like the 338 Lapua Mag. Surplus bullets are cheap though the AMAX is up there so you can load and shoot cheap if you want or go for accuracy which usually costs anyway. I know a couple guys hunting with this round subsonic and it leaves a big leaky hole.

I suppose to each his own. I can't see the point of racing my station wagon or using the Miata for a pickup....they'll both do the job if forced but not really intended for it. My own opinions of course and you may or may not agree. Just food for thought.

Frank
Click to expand...


Agree with you here Frank, just don't have unlimited money to spend on multiple barrels. I've seen guys doing the 300 blackout subs and loving it, then you have someone putting subs through a 308 and doing very well compared to blackout. if I can use my barrel for supersonic shooting to 1000 yards, which is does perfectly, and then throw a sub load in it that runs well enough to kill something then that is cool too.

for a backyard gun to kill a fox trying to get into your chicken coop at 45 yards in a place where homes are within 200 yards and you don't want any phone calls about loud guns... subsonic 6.5 cm is looking pretty good. and being that I already have the components to reload everything out of 6.5cm I don't think having a few sub rounds sitting in a box hurts anything.

this video is what sparked the question. Not like any subsonic gun, 308, 300 blackout or anything else has much terminal performance when compared to a super. they expand well but more speed is always preferred. heck, I can't see myself shooting subs very often at all, only when occasion permits, so why have a dedicated barrel for it that costs upwards of $900. That is my holdup...
thanks
 
#9,779
No worries from here. I understand that others don't do machine work for themselves so it makes it tougher. You have to pay someone else to do the work and I just have to pay for the blanks and barrel extensions..... the labor is a good part of the cost.

On the other hand if I was going after a fox at 50 yds I'd be much more likely to use a 22LR with a can to keep the neighbors from bitching. The 60 gr subsonics from Aquila are accurate enough and quiet yet they hit pretty hard. Cheap, easy to find and no need to mess with all the rigamarole that goes with trying to make your long-ranger do double duty.

Last bit here....I do a lot of suppressor transfers and repairs for customers. One of the most common repairs I've done over the years is replacing baffles or at least troubleshooting since many are welded cans. The most common reason for baffle strikes is running subsonics in rifles with barrels made for supersonic shooting. I ran 220s and 240s in my 30-221 (300 whisper equivalent prior to AAC and remingtons blackout) with no problems but my rifles were 1-7 or 1-8 twist and intended for the subs. The customers were seeing how well it worked but were shooting the same bullets in their 308s or 30-06 rifles. With the 1-12 or even 1-10 twist rates they weren't stabilizing the heavy bullets and they wobbled out of the end of the barrel sometimes hitting baffles. The heavy bullets have more range and utility but won't run in the slower twists. Just keep that in mind. You can find calculators for stability and velocity so find a bullet that won't be a baffle remover.

If you want to run your 6.5 subsonic I wish you all the luck and joy that can be had. It is nice to shoot quiet and once you start you won't want to go back.

Frank
 
#9,781
So my cheak piece bubbled up and Desert Tech dont answere my email. If ant DT ppl read this and can hjelp me, please pm me.
And for the record, I love Desert Tech.?
 

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#9,783
Range day is fast approaching! Looking forward to trying out some of this ABM ammo I picked up at 50% off! Looking forward to seeing how this does out of my DTA. Picked up some of their 230, 215 Berger loads and for comparison the Hornady 200 ELDX in the photo. I do not have the time to reload so I’m glad I was able to find some of the heavier bullet weights.
 

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#9,784
Is this anything to worry about? A lot more brass on bolt head that I am used to. Brass looks OK though. A little silver on 2 of the lugs.
 

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#9,786
Jeffd said:
Is this anything to worry about? A lot more brass on bolt head that I am used to. Brass looks OK though. A little silver on 2 of the lugs.
Click to expand...
I'm by no means a reloading expert but will offer my opinion on a few things. It looks to me like the piece of brass on the left has a few problems, the first is after zooming in on your photo it's easy to see an ejector imprint. The other thing is there is ejector swipe that appears to be made when you ejected the fired round, the swipe is counter clockwise if this is a right handed bolt, usually not good.
My DTA bolt for 6.5 creed moor, 308 etc only has one ejector, my bolt for my 300WM has two ejectors like yours. Don't know anything about the round you are shooting or which bolt it uses.
You might be interested in looking at an article Orkan has on his website about pressure sights, Primal Rights . It not for any other reason it's a good read and info.
Best of luck.
 
Last edited:
#9,787
I’ve had pressure signs like that before, it was cause by a carbon ring built up in the barrel from not cleaning throughly and often enough. It blew primers and had heavy bolt lift with factory loads. The bolt is completely fine absolutely nothing to worry about with that.

If you’re reloading back down and work your way back up, if this was with factory loads, give that barrel a good cleaning the shine a light in the bore with the barrel removed to make sure you got the carbon ring out.

How many rounds between cleaning have you been doing?
 
#9,789
Jeffd said:
Is this anything to worry about? A lot more brass on bolt head that I am used to. Brass looks OK though. A little silver on 2 of the lugs.
Click to expand...

I don’t see anything to worry about. I can MAYBE see what might be an ejector mark.
Below is a picture of my bolt and haven’t had an issue. I was told on the phone by a DTA employee that was normal.
DB0C13E1-0ED3-4867-BF08-315B1E5F0654.png


Here is the mentioned article by Greg that is very good. https://www.primalrights.com/library/articles/understanding-pressure

Who the hell did the PRC chamber for you? That’s awesome! How are you liking it?
 
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#9,790
Fishkat said:
I'm by no means a reloading expert but will offer my opinion on a few things. It looks to me like the piece of brass on the left has a few problems, the first is after zooming in on your photo it's easy to see an ejector imprint. The other thing is there is ejector swipe that appears to be made when you ejected the fired round, the swipe is counter clockwise if this is a right handed bolt, usually not good.
My DTA bolt for 6.5 creed moor, 308 etc only has one ejector, my bolt for my 300WM has two ejectors like yours. Don't know anything about the round you are shooting or which bolt it uses.
You might be interested in looking at an article Orkan has on his website about pressure sights, Primal Rights . It not for any other reason it's a good read and info.
Best of luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks
 
#9,791
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#9,792
MysizeisMAGNUM said:
I’ve had pressure signs like that before, it was cause by a carbon ring built up in the barrel from not cleaning throughly and often enough. It blew primers and had heavy bolt lift with factory loads. The bolt is completely fine absolutely nothing to worry about with that.

If you’re reloading back down and work your way back up, if this was with factory loads, give that barrel a good cleaning the shine a light in the bore with the barrel removed to make sure you got the carbon ring out.

How many rounds between cleaning have you been doing?
Click to expand...
It was the first time the barrel was shot.
 
#9,797
hey DT guys. Stripped out a screw trying to remove the factory picatinny rail from my A1 handguard. going to use an easy-out bit tonight to remove.

Anyone know the exact screws I need to replace?

Also, what is the threading on these if I want to add other custom attachments with different screws?
thanks
 
#9,798
tcamel4 said:
hey DT guys. Stripped out a screw trying to remove the factory picatinny rail from my A1 handguard. going to use an easy-out bit tonight to remove.

Anyone know the exact screws I need to replace?

Also, what is the threading on these if I want to add other custom attachments with different screws?
thanks
Click to expand...


Hey bud check out Greg's video on how to remove them , I personally stripped some my self and used a T10 Torx bit and that worked like a treat . The bolt is a m2.5 X 8mm

 
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#9,799
Just got my new all black SRS-A1 back from being cerakoted OD Green and Forest Green! Haven’t shot it yet, but super excited, always wanted a Desert Tech.

Right now I have 6.5 Creedmoor barrel with Nightforce 7-35 ATACR scope. I’m planning to get 22” 308 Win and 26” 338 Lapua barrels later this year.

Picked up a Case Club precut case from Amazon for it was well, so far so go, impressed with the value.

I’m also thinking about getting the Atlas cerakoted OD Green now!?! I really liking the shades of green!

1AE3FE68-6E8F-4ACB-B3C5-10E1A83FADF7.jpeg
0A178199-9A85-40A5-8C37-E7A2E4340A55.jpeg



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#9,800
Are any of you running one optic in multiple platforms. I’d like to mount my USO B25 on the DT for recreational prone shooting/hunting, but when I shoot a positional match I’d like to move the optic over to my defiance. Is there a happy medium with mounting solutions here? Or should I get a low mount and slap a riser on the DT?
 
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