Suppressors Omega: ASR vs Direct Thread

I would go with ASR brake on both platform.

Wells that's what I have done actually. It haven't used the suppressor yet.

The ASR only has problems when not locked down correctly. Just have to ensure you lock it down correctly.


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ASR gets my vote as well. One of the reasons for that is because with the ASR, you have the option to run a brake as a mount. The baffles in the brake can act sacrificially to reduce wear on the blast baffle in the suppressor its self. I think that this could be especially useful at higher rates of fire.

I prefer the ASR mount on bolt guns, as well, if only for the positive retention functionality... plus, I prefer to run a brake when not shooting suppressed.

Essentially, the drawbacks (IMO) to running the ASR mount are the weight and the length (compared to the direct thread configuration).
 
ASR. If you attach the can holding it by the body and detach it by the module youll never have any issues. Provided you focus on it actually threading on. The threads are course and its easy to see if it is actually tightening onto the barrel or not. There is a shoulder it bumps up against and if you put it on crooked it will just rotate around that shoulder without engaging the threads. BUT it has to be pretty crooked to have that happen.

I suspect that people that blow their cans off accidentally spin the can on by the module bumping the slide lock causing the teeth to lock prematurely before the can fully seats. If you tighten by the can body you will avoid bumping the modules slide lock. If you loosen by the module you will ensure that the lock is all of the way open and not drag teeth. By doing both of those you will also tighten and not loosen the asr module/can body connection on accident.

When I first got it I tried to remove a hot can by the body and I just unscrewed the body leaving the module and all that attached to the brake. Since I have adopted my tightening procedure I have zero issues and I consider it idiot proof. But then again idiots wouldnt be following a regimen so maybe not idiot proof...

I would be afraid of the direct thread having the issue of the thread module unscrewing from the can body when the body gets hot and expands. Unless you use the spanner wrenches to tighten it down when hot but then separating the two would be a biatch when cool. And I see zero evidence in my practices that the direct thread could be any more repeatable than the asr module. I shot 10 shots taking the can off in between each on and the lock up was exactly the same each time with the point of impact being the same each time. So that little test was enough to assuage my concerns on that issue.
 
i have the Hybrid and use the ASR on my 6.5cm. ive never had an issue threading it on or off. i dont really even have to pay attention to it, it just goes on, you close the lock ring and its done.
 
It's not hard to swap between the two, either. I've got ASR on my AR-15 platform and use the can direct thread on my bolt gun since I prefer a different muzzle brake. Takes just a second to swap out the rear end on the can using the tool provided by Silencerco.
 
ASR. If you attach the can holding it by the body and detach it by the module youll never have any issues. Provided you focus on it actually threading on. The threads are course and its easy to see if it is actually tightening onto the barrel or not. There is a shoulder it bumps up against and if you put it on crooked it will just rotate around that shoulder without engaging the threads. BUT it has to be pretty crooked to have that happen.

I suspect that people that blow their cans off accidentally spin the can on by the module bumping the slide lock causing the teeth to lock prematurely before the can fully seats. If you tighten by the can body you will avoid bumping the modules slide lock. If you loosen by the module you will ensure that the lock is all of the way open and not drag teeth. By doing both of those you will also tighten and not loosen the asr module/can body connection on accident.

When I first got it I tried to remove a hot can by the body and I just unscrewed the body leaving the module and all that attached to the brake. Since I have adopted my tightening procedure I have zero issues and I consider it idiot proof. But then again idiots wouldnt be following a regimen so maybe not idiot proof...

I would be afraid of the direct thread having the issue of the thread module unscrewing from the can body when the body gets hot and expands. Unless you use the spanner wrenches to tighten it down when hot but then separating the two would be a biatch when cool. And I see zero evidence in my practices that the direct thread could be any more repeatable than the asr module. I shot 10 shots taking the can off in between each on and the lock up was exactly the same each time with the point of impact being the same each time. So that little test was enough to assuage my concerns on that issue.

It's funny you say that because the exact same thing happened to me yesterday. Thought I hade it locked down tight and first shot blew my can off. Hit every baffle on the way out. Looked like a keyhole all the way thru. Just sent it off to silencerco today but I've been hearing of more than a few of these incidences happening more and more frequently lately. Apparently the mount can get faulty.
1e6792f8bb8a925b76a752b4f6f6bc09.jpg



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It's funny you say that because the exact same thing happened to me yesterday. Thought I hade it locked down tight and first shot blew my can off. Hit every baffle on the way out. Looked like a keyhole all the way thru. Just sent it off to silencerco today but I've been hearing of more than a few of these incidences happening more and more frequently lately. Apparently the mount can get faulty.

Yowzers. Bet it scared the shit out of you, I know I would have to change my pants.

 
The older ASR mounts seem to have weaker "locking shoes" if that makes sense.

They changed the design of the ASR mount, the locking mechanism is a little bit more sturdy now. That said, if you have the older model you just need to stick a screwdriver and bend the locking shoe enough to engage better (like the pic below).

If that doesn't work, call SiCo, they will go out of their way to help.

E5352F1F-AC00-4271-807B-B91532719733_zpspodgbzzu.jpg



 
I guess I am unique to the group here. I have the Omega and found myself using it the most in the DT option. On my 300blk SBR I wanted it to be as short as possible as well as light as possible, I even ran it without the Anchor brake. For a short time I had the brake installed on my 6.5 creed gas gun and did use the can with the ASR mount as well as the Anchor brake. Once I built a dedicated 6.5 bolt gun I have decided to use it with DT and have again taken the anchor brake off. I wanted to limit the weight on the end of the barrel and so far I have ran this rifle 100% suppressed. I have had an issue after certain stages where the can has come loose a little. I love the fact that this can is so versatile and can be used for so many applications. I am thinking about buying an area419 adapter to use with their Hellfire brake to help alleviate the issue of the can coming lose.
 
Well fortunately they're rebuilding me a completely new one with same serial number. I was actually shocked to find out it's only a 48 hour turn around time. Was expecting much more.


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ASR gets my vote as well. One of the reasons for that is because with the ASR, you have the option to run a brake as a mount. The baffles in the brake can act sacrificially to reduce wear on the blast baffle in the suppressor its self. I think that this could be especially useful at higher rates of fire.

I prefer the ASR mount on bolt guns, as well, if only for the positive retention functionality... plus, I prefer to run a brake when not shooting suppressed.

Essentially, the drawbacks (IMO) to running the ASR mount are the weight and the length (compared to the direct thread configuration).

Yes. IMO, it is slightly quieter with the muzzle brake as it acts like an extra baffle. Down side is a little more length
 
They don't have a lot of work to do right now... quoting someone at the range yesterday... "everyone blew their wad right before 41F took effect".

I was told by my local Class 3 dealer there was an 80% layoff rate at some suppressor companies due to people waiting for the HPA to pass. Manufacturing is essentially idling right now, which is not good for business.
 
I guess I am unique to the group here. I have the Omega and found myself using it the most in the DT option. On my 300blk SBR I wanted it to be as short as possible as well as light as possible, I even ran it without the Anchor brake. For a short time I had the brake installed on my 6.5 creed gas gun and did use the can with the ASR mount as well as the Anchor brake. Once I built a dedicated 6.5 bolt gun I have decided to use it with DT and have again taken the anchor brake off. I wanted to limit the weight on the end of the barrel and so far I have ran this rifle 100% suppressed. I have had an issue after certain stages where the can has come loose a little. I love the fact that this can is so versatile and can be used for so many applications. I am thinking about buying an area419 adapter to use with their Hellfire brake to help alleviate the issue of the can coming lose.

The Area 419 Omega Mount is now available, just talked to Jon about it. Check it out, it's slick as shit.
 
I bought a new Saker ASR 556k when they came out, I decided to go with the dt module only because I wanted it as short as possible and it will be dedicated to my 10.5" sbr.

I have heard of people shooting their Silencerco cans downrange. I think that's mainly not knowing how to correctly operate the ASR mount, or some had the old trifecta mount which Silencerco did away with and will replace free of charge now.
 
I bought a new Saker ASR 556k when they came out, I decided to go with the dt module only because I wanted it as short as possible and it will be dedicated to my 10.5" sbr.

I have heard of people shooting their Silencerco cans downrange. I think that's mainly not knowing how to correctly operate the ASR mount, or some had the old trifecta mount which Silencerco did away with and will replace free of charge now.

Mostly, yes, but there are mechanical problems in a few instances.


All that I will say is that Silencerco is the best at servicing their customers. It is unbelievable how good they are at it.

 
It's funny you say that because the exact same thing happened to me yesterday. Thought I hade it locked down tight and first shot blew my can off. Hit every baffle on the way out. Looked like a keyhole all the way thru. Just sent it off to silencerco today but I've been hearing of more than a few of these incidences happening more and more frequently lately. Apparently the mount can get faulty.


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This pretty is much is in the back of my mind everytime i use my Hybrid. I know the consensus before was that it was a rare occurrence but i swear these issues seemed to have surfaced quite a bit in the last year or so. Makes me want to move to the Key-Mo system from dead air. Just already have lots invested in the ASR mounts. Two mounts on both my ARs, registered my Omega for another for my brother. Already have a brake for the AR10 and going to use the one coming with the omega for Dad's 6.5 SAUM.
 
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I have two ASR cans Spec War and Omega. I feel like I would have to intentionally not put the can on to try and shoot it off. If your barrel has proper threading and you seat the can on the mount and lock it I just do not see how this can be screwed up. The only thing I can think of is that over time the spring wears out and you lose the locking mechanism. Other than that it is fool proof unless I am missing something. Are there really that many people shooting these things off or a select few that go to the hill top and scream as loud as they can?
 
I have two ASR cans Spec War and Omega. I feel like I would have to intentionally not put the can on to try and shoot it off. If your barrel has proper threading and you seat the can on the mount and lock it I just do not see how this can be screwed up. The only thing I can think of is that over time the spring wears out and you lose the locking mechanism. Other than that it is fool proof unless I am missing something. Are there really that many people shooting these things off or a select few that go to the hill top and scream as loud as they can?

I feel like there have been quite a few instances to just brush it off as an anomaly. Hell my friend launched his omega when he first got it, Ryan Miller (diesalgeek) IIRC launched his, We had a thread about a hunting experience where one blew up, the post up above, etc. It's much more frequent than we care to claim. The issue lies in diagnosing it. Is it user error or are the mounts failing?
 
This pretty is much is in the back of my mind everytime i use my Hybrid. I know the consensus before was that it was a rare occurrence but i swear these issues seemed to have surfaced quite a bit in the last year or so. Makes me want to move to the Key-Mo system from dead air. Just already have lots invested in the ASR mounts. Two mounts on both my ARs, registered my Omega for another for my brother. Already have a brake for the AR10 and going to use the one coming with the omega for Dad's 6.5 SAUM.

The good news is that I sent it out to Silencerco and they replaced the end cap and put a new mount on. seems that the newer mounts are made a little better. haven't had any issues since, and like you, I have about 5 different guns that all have the ASR brake so I'm a little invested in it.
 
I have two ASR cans Spec War and Omega. I feel like I would have to intentionally not put the can on to try and shoot it off. If your barrel has proper threading and you seat the can on the mount and lock it I just do not see how this can be screwed up. The only thing I can think of is that over time the spring wears out and you lose the locking mechanism. Other than that it is fool proof unless I am missing something. Are there really that many people shooting these things off or a select few that go to the hill top and scream as loud as they can?

this is where im at...i have about...8-10 brakes on different rifles and i have shot my omega on my match gun without the ring locked on purpose to see if it would cause problems and it didnt...when i screw mine on, i can put it on so tight by hand it takes the wrench to get it back off...theres no way its coming off without some type or mechanical/structural failure
 
Is there significant accuracy difference between an ASR brake and direct thread?

I don't care about weight/length. But I do bounce the can around between rifles frequently; all of the AR 15/10s have ASR mounts, the bolt gun is the only one I DT.

24" 6.5 CM
 
I have a Saker and it uses the Trifecta flash hider, which I really like.

I recently just got two more Saker's on sale for less than I paid for the first one... Turns out in that time Sico has decided the ASR mount is better than the Trifecta and that's what they recommend now. So I got two ASR brakes in 5.56 (which I later realized I should have got the flash hider, being 5.56 who really needs a brake?).

Anyway, both of those mounts lock up tight and don't move, true QD mounts. As far as that vs. direct thread, well, if the threads on your rifle aren't spot on you could end up with more run out than you want and possibly a baffle or cap strike. With the mounts, they can mitigate that to a degree and if nothing else, give you a consistent and solid shoulder and good mount each time. Some barrels may not leave enough shoulder for the can to seat well against. It's also a lot faster to take on and off.

My only direct thread is also a bolt gun, a .50 BMG at that. Oh, and an Omega 9k, but it uses a booster and technically that's a mount so...
 
Silencerco recently unstuck my mount and front cap. Even upgraded my asr mount, replaced anchor brake, and recored the can. Awesome service!! Last picture is my titanium endcap which is caked with carbon.
 

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I ran the ASR brake on my Ruger American Predator 6.5 Creedmoor before I got my can out of jail. The gun shot 0.36 MOA groups with the brake and my handloads. I used the ASR mount when I got the Omega, and I was shooting 6” groups. I went to the direct thread mount and was back to tight groups. I had the same issue on my AR-15 carbine. I run direct thread on everything except my AR pistol in 300 Blackout. That has the ASR flash hider. My Dead Air Sandman Ti is also direct thread. I did not wand the QD can because of my experience with the ASR system.

I’ve seen it work for some people, but I had poor performance on my rifles.