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Rifle Scopes Optic for 10.5” 556?
- Thread starter deersniper
- Start date
if you shoot it 150+ Frequently, I’d do the 1-4, otherwise the T2. I use an Eotech EXP 3-2 and a magnifier as I like the different hold points but battery life is the downside.
I don’t shoot my 10.3 beyond 150 much (7-150 is most common for me).
I don’t shoot my 10.3 beyond 150 much (7-150 is most common for me).
I'm in a similar boat myself. Have a 10.5" that I started with just BUIS. Figured I'd try something different out, so I'm currently running a Strike Eagle 1-6 in an ADM Recon. A good red dot will be the next up. Primarily because of weight.
What's your intended use? I'm running a Kahles K16i on my 11.5 duty/SWAT rifle with an RMR on a 45 degree mount. The magnification is great for seeing into spaces that I can't see with the naked eye, including looking into darker spaces while I'm in a well-lit spot (I'm standing outside in full sun looking into a dark house). Your intended use will dictate the answer.
What's the weight on your accu-power? I know the Steiner looks short, but dont know the weight. My SE is long, and 17.6oz before ADM mount (8.? Oz). 10.5" is already taking quite a bit of real estate away for forward hand placement; the wrong optic could make it awful muzzle end heavy also. @Lawless looks to have some time behind the SWFA 1-4, which was one of my considerations. Be curious to know how they work for him on short "pistols". I see that you own your current choices; so if light, and short enough, I'd go LPVO.
I put a PST Gen II 1-6x on my 10.5" 300BO and like it. Got 1x for close and 6x for farther shots. Shown with the sunshade that comes with it. The scope stops where the writing is on objective. I would definitely put a 1-4x or 1-6x on a set up like this if you plan to shoot farther than CQB range.
11.5" but close enough. The 1-6 is perfect for SBRs in my mind. My eyes aren't getting better each day so red dots and irons are becoming increasingly useless to me. I'm switching all QD mounts out to bolted and putting LPVOs on everything. Used gen2 razors are a hard to beat deal now.
If you already have the 1-4.....put that on it or sell all the other stuff and start getting 1-6s that are priced right. Think about your AO and ask yourself what good a red dot is gonna be if you had to actually use the thing. The vast majority of us aren't served the best with a red dot anymore with today's options. In the event you had to use the thing in real life, separation is your friend. You're not a HSLD operator kicking doors in, real life dictates you put some distance between you and the threat and a red dot isn't gonna do well from any distance when you have fields and woods and everything else to deal with.
I have an Aimpoint CompC, SIG Romeo5, and Steiner 1-4X on QD mounts. The longest shot out of the front of my house is 220 laser-measured yards to a treeline. In front of that treeline there are houses 140 - 160 yards away, again, verified with a Leica 2000 RF.
I have placed sights on objects and people walking around up to 160 yds away and I know for a fact that using an RDS at that distance, on a target that big, will result in effective hits.
It's a fantasy that one needs to see every detail on a target to be able to make effective hits. Positive ID gets trotted out as the reason to use magnification, but that shit applies only to the restrictive ROEs that our troops have been under for so long.
If I ever need to use a rifle to defend my home from external threats at distance, shit has gone so fucking sideways that PID will be very easy: I see you, you're eating lead.
So are my eyes. OG is O for a reason. There's better options now. Spend a few hundred on quality irons that you can't see worth a shit, or spend twice as much on a quality LPVO and get exponentially more capability. With the options out there, it isn't even a linear improvement for money spent any longer.
I agree but like I said, he needs to think about his AO. Yours and his and mine may all be entirely different. Also the need for PID may be entirely different. I'm familiar with his AO and I know which one I'd pick. Another thing to consider, and it's a big consideration of mine. I'd much rather have an etched reticle that is illuminated than an electronically projected red dot as a primary sight.
What’s wrong with the red triangle?
I do have 1-8s and Aimpoints on other 16” carbines and 762s. I picked up the 10.5 cause the cool kids said they were great lol
The same ones who told you T3 was great...? Be careful what the cool kids tell you. Lol
Given the ruggedness of Aimpoints, I'd say that's a non factor.
If it's because of eyeball problems, I hear you. Red dots dont agree with my eyes. I run Vortex Spitfires for that exact reason.
I'd vote the Steiner PX1-4,,at 1x it's a very usable bright lite dot.
4x when needed. large eye box
That said I went with a Vortex PST II 1-6 ,,on a 16" .
Was going to use a Trijicon 1-4,, didn't have a reticle I cared for.
Small write up on Vortex PST II 1-6
sofrep.com
4x when needed. large eye box
That said I went with a Vortex PST II 1-6 ,,on a 16" .
Was going to use a Trijicon 1-4,, didn't have a reticle I cared for.
Small write up on Vortex PST II 1-6
Vortex Optics Viper PST 1-6x24 Gen II
even though some would call the Viper PST 1-6 a poor man's RazorHD, it's still such a great optic for the price point.
sofrep.com
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- Nov 3, 2010
- 9,885
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You must have meant Accupoint then, IIRC the Accupowers (battery-powered LED reticle illumination) don't have any triangle reticles.
Does your scope use batteries or not? If not, it's an Accupoint.
That's 1990s thinking.
Aimpoint sights have proven their durability in battle for over 20 years or more.
Over the course of this year I'll be converting all my semi auto handguns to RDS as the primary (and sometimes only) sight.
I understand and agree with that as far as durability goes. That's not my hang up though. I dont doubt the toughness of the optic itself, more so the battery and murphys law.
SWFA HD 1-4 and 1-6 are both fantastic.
Not muzzle heavy, in fact it points like the finger of God.
You have to go old school on hand placement with this, no Chris Costa 3 gun extended arms. Grip it in front of the magwell and keep your elbows in and the stock adjusted short.
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On my 7.5" pistol, I have a Holosun with ACSS reticle (503G I think), and the Vortex Micro3x magnifier, fixed front and flip-up rear irons. I'm loving the combo so far, and will be using it at the Tactical Games this year.
Awesome vid thanks.
I always used the 50 yard zero for Aimpoints but looks like 36 yards may be the way to go.
Want to know how I know that most people in this thread have never done helo based convoy interdictions or have ever had to come from a high port to dominate a blind corner?
The answer is, use the T2 or an EoTech. You don't need a magnifier either.
I have a T1 on the KAC riser on one CQB and a EoTech XPS3 on a KAC SASS riser on the other. Only difference is I use the EoTech upper at night as the single dot on the Aimpoint can get lost/confused with the lower powered laser dot a PEQ15 puts out on target and the EOTech reticle is easier for passive aiming with an ANVIS9. Daytime its all Aimpont all the time.
Also for the ranges you'll use the 10.5 on, put either of them on a riser and do a ton of up drills on shit around your house to get the reticle to instantly show up on/very close to where you need it to be (i.e. you can do this on a light switch, door knob, whatever). Practice both from the low ready after you find your index point on your shoulder for the lower 'point' of the stock to sit as well as from a high port which is a completely different presentation that looks easy until you practice it and start hitting yourself in the jaw with the rifle with.
Other question is, in a 10.5, what ammo are you using?
Xm193 or 50-60 grain polymer tip for blasting.
Was thinking 55 grain soft point gold dot for more serious occasions I have 77tmk mk262 also
Was thinking 55 grain soft point gold dot for more serious occasions I have 77tmk mk262 also
That's part of the bigger equation.
In a 10.5, M193 hits the fragmentation threshold somewhere around 70ish yards. MK262 is a slightly different animal and you can run the numbers on JBM once you get a velocity out of your gun, but same general idea even though the 262 focuses more on TWC. Covering/suppression still works obviously, but you're just throwing rounds at that point so who cares.
Generally you have a 10.5/11.5 gun for closer engagement distances where the lighter weight and shorter length give you an advantage. For people wanting to put scopes and all sorts of shit on it, you're not only adding the weight back on where you'd be back at a 16 or 18 inch barrel, but you're disturbing the center of balance/ease of use of the much shorter rifle. Try coming from a high port around an entry way with a nicely balanced CQB gun and then do it with either a 16 or 18 inch gun or a CQB gun with all sorts of optics and shit on it and see how fast you A. are on target B. dont have the optic/whatever pointed next to your target and/or take an extra second or two to readjust where you're aimed or C. have your FoV be all fucked up from the 1 second you have to break the entry plane, push the gun out and shoulder it, have it aimed at the blind corner threat and then have the spatial awareness to turn and dominate the far corner. Why make shit harder than it needs to be?
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TheGerman is right. I experimented with LPVs on 11.5 and 10.5” guns for quite a while. Now LPVs are relegated to 16” carbines but my 10.5”s are carrying T2s and a Holosun that I like quite a bit.
And I freaking love LPVs but for a serious use gun at realistic use ranges it’s an easy choice for the points he so eloquently articulated.
And I freaking love LPVs but for a serious use gun at realistic use ranges it’s an easy choice for the points he so eloquently articulated.
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