Rifle Scopes Optics for BERGARA HMR 6.5 CREEDMOOR
- Thread starter Hammer@2014
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You're new here, right???
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Rifle Scopes - Tips For Asking Advice About Rifle Scopes
wjm308 XFirst Sergeant Rating: 3.6/5 this site 2349 posts this site Tips For Asking Advice About Rifle Scopes 09/02/2016 Last edited 01/05/2017 by wjm308 (11 votes) Not that this would be a "rule" but more a "guideline" for members when they'd like to ask about what scope is best, I thought...
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I am thinking 1-2k on scope. This is my first long range rifle. Mostly going to be shooting targets.
YesYou're new here, right???
Rifle Scopes - Tips For Asking Advice About Rifle Scopes
wjm308 XFirst Sergeant Rating: 3.6/5 this site 2349 posts this site Tips For Asking Advice About Rifle Scopes 09/02/2016 Last edited 01/05/2017 by wjm308 (11 votes) Not that this would be a "rule" but more a "guideline" for members when they'd like to ask about what scope is best, I thought...
What do you want/need for magnification (3x18, 5x25 etc.). Any brands you’re familiar with already. Do you need a Vortex Razor gen 2 when a pst gen 2 would suffice? If you want someone to help spend your money just read up on Leupold Mark 5, Burris XTR3, and the ^^ Razor gen 2 previously mentioned.
What's your end goal?
Do you want to drill holes at 1000 metres?
Good optics will enhance your ability to see your target, the fall of your rounds, and adjust appropriately.
Spend your time looking for a scope that suits your needs.
No point buying one that has a reticle you don't understand or aren't inclined to learn how to use.
If you have mates with scopes, have a session with theirs.
Pester your local gunshop.
A good owner or shop assistant will take the time to let you peruse what's available, and attempt to cater for your needs.
You need to check out bargain basement scopes,and compare them to high end ones.
Just because the scope offered is say, a top quality European, you may enjoy looking through the Japanese made one more.
I have always been a Kahles fan, yet for my new Tikka Super Varmint 6.5 Creedmoor, I have gone with the Vortex Razor.
It's got lovely optics, and a lifetime warranty.
Most importantly, take the time to be honest about what you need, and how far you want to go.
Enjoy yourself and be open to different options.
Enjoy!
Do you want to drill holes at 1000 metres?
Good optics will enhance your ability to see your target, the fall of your rounds, and adjust appropriately.
Spend your time looking for a scope that suits your needs.
No point buying one that has a reticle you don't understand or aren't inclined to learn how to use.
If you have mates with scopes, have a session with theirs.
Pester your local gunshop.
A good owner or shop assistant will take the time to let you peruse what's available, and attempt to cater for your needs.
You need to check out bargain basement scopes,and compare them to high end ones.
Just because the scope offered is say, a top quality European, you may enjoy looking through the Japanese made one more.
I have always been a Kahles fan, yet for my new Tikka Super Varmint 6.5 Creedmoor, I have gone with the Vortex Razor.
It's got lovely optics, and a lifetime warranty.
Most importantly, take the time to be honest about what you need, and how far you want to go.
Enjoy yourself and be open to different options.
Enjoy!
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On my HMR Pro I have:
- Sightmark Pinnacle 5-30 (made in Japan LOW factory)
- MDT Premier 34MM 1" rings
Have had a few skeptics eyeball the Sightmark's glass and they were surprised. Eye relief is not god's gift, if I'm honest, but unless you are totally unable to recreate an even loose cheek weld in short order, it's totally fine. The turret clicks aren't amazing, but it adjusts accurately and is clicky/tactile enough. I love that it has capped windage and elevation. No need for goofy locking stuff... just cap it. Keeps the dust and scratches at bay.
MDT rings needed a quick lapping to stop moving the scope slightly when you did a tightening sequence. Other than that, they've held up just fine. Wish they didn't have a big ass white MDT logo on them but whatever.
- Sightmark Pinnacle 5-30 (made in Japan LOW factory)
- MDT Premier 34MM 1" rings
Have had a few skeptics eyeball the Sightmark's glass and they were surprised. Eye relief is not god's gift, if I'm honest, but unless you are totally unable to recreate an even loose cheek weld in short order, it's totally fine. The turret clicks aren't amazing, but it adjusts accurately and is clicky/tactile enough. I love that it has capped windage and elevation. No need for goofy locking stuff... just cap it. Keeps the dust and scratches at bay.
MDT rings needed a quick lapping to stop moving the scope slightly when you did a tightening sequence. Other than that, they've held up just fine. Wish they didn't have a big ass white MDT logo on them but whatever.
Yes to FFP for the type of shooting you're interested in
Read through this to get a basic understanding of the angular units that are used in telescopic sight adjustments: https://www.snipershide.com/precision-rifle/stop-the-debate-mils-vs-moa-vs-iphy/
Fire back with any questions after reading that
Thanks for the great article. If I understand Mil is the easiest to work with because it’s in 10’s
Also a Mil reticle is also called MRAD. so I started looking at scopes. Would this be a good choice?
Attachments
I am in the same position and went for the EGW 20 MOA base rail, MAKmilmont Rings and the Viper 5-25 PST Gen2. I could not test the setup since the rifle has not yet arrived but the Viper looks very good considering the price point.
That's a good optic but not at that price. At that price, you can find a second gen Sig Tango6 which is a LOW Japanese scope with some really good glass clarity...
You got it as far as the abbreviations. Don't get hung up on something being divisible by 10 or 4. It literally makes no difference. Same the stupid argument that one has to "dial less" using MRAD scopes. The erector tube has to move the same distance for a given elevation change in two identical scopes whose only difference is the labels and number of detents on the turrets. Think about it. The only reason to use an MRAD scope for long range practical rifle shooting is commonality with other shooters (ease of communication).
A scope with the focal plane at the reticle (first focal plane) is important if that scope has a reticle with subdvision lines that allow you to hold over for elevation and more importantly hold windage without touching the turrets because those subdivisions will be worth the same angular measurement (in mils or MOA, whichever units that scope comes with) regardless of magnification.
Agreed. Noobs think they need the most magnification they can for the lowest possible price. I would rather buy a scope of much higher optical and mechanical (very important) quality with a little less magnification for the same or lower price. Like this one.
Ordered this scope on your recommendation. Can’t wait to get it. Now need to find bases and rings.You got it as far as the abbreviations. Don't get hung up on something being divisible by 10 or 4. It literally makes no difference. Same the stupid argument that one has to "dial less" using MRAD scopes. The erector tube has to move the same distance for a given elevation change in two identical scopes whose only difference is the labels and number of detents on the turrets. Think about it. The only reason to use an MRAD scope for long range practical rifle shooting is commonality with other shooters (ease of communication).
A scope with the focal plane at the reticle (first focal plane) is important if that scope has a reticle with subdvision lines that allow you to hold over for elevation and more importantly hold windage without touching the turrets because those subdivisions will be worth the same angular measurement (in mils or MOA, whichever units that scope comes with) regardless of magnification.
Agreed. Noobs think they need the most magnification they can for the lowest possible price. I would rather buy a scope of much higher optical and mechanical (very important) quality with a little less magnification for the same or lower price. Like this one.
