Suppressors OSS suppressor mount, lock nut or washers?

[Ape_Factory]

My suppressor finally came out of time out today! I've converted the other rifles over to the OSS muzzle brake and am converting the POF as we speak.
Is there any reason I can't use the POF lock/timing nut in place of the archaic washer system? Drives me mad trying to time the muzzle brake so the flat side is at 12 o'clock. Did that on my 5.56 and 300 Blackout and it took forever to find the right combo.

I have it on and basically screwed it on the end of the barrel, as low as it would go, then timed it by backing it off and made it snug with the locking nut.

I can't think of a good reason but maybe the more experienced would know. The POF lock nut, backed all the way down, actually slides over the barrel so there's a ton of thread for the OSS muzzle brake to screw on. In fact, I only turn it about 1/8 of a turn from locked all the way down to square up the flat face and lock it down with the locking/timing nut.

What do you think and thanks in advance!

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Never use a locking nut with a suppressor, you are asking for a baffle strike.

For the suppressor to be concentric to the barrel, the back of the muzzle break needs to be parallel to the shoulder behind the thread. Great care should be taken when installing a break for suppressor use, use the shims and Rocksett and carefully inspect the finished product with suppressor installed for alignment.

 

[Longshot231]

Without any washers or lock nut in place, how far out of time is it?

 

[Ape_Factory]

Without any washers or lock nut in place, how far out of time is it?

Not too far to be honest, bout 1/8th of a rotation. I'll screw it on without the lock nut or washers and take a pic. It was pretty much like that on the other two barrels (both Faxon match-grade barrels.

I used the supplied washers on all my other uppers as they didn't come with a lock nut anyway. I was aware of the need to be perfectly perpendicular with the bore but figured the threads would determine that more than anything. I'll start from scratch and see if I can even rock the mount back and forth once mostly threaded on but not snug. I thought (hoped) the threads were precise enough to do it this way (along with the lock nut).

Appreciate the answers guys! Saved me from a potentially very bad day with my first ever suppressor.

 

[Longshot231]

Not too far to be honest, bout 1/8th of a rotation. I'll screw it on without the lock nut or washers and take a pic. It was pretty much like that on the other two barrels (both Faxon match-grade barrels.

I used the supplied washers on all my other uppers as they didn't come with a lock nut anyway. I was aware of the need to be perfectly perpendicular with the bore but figured the threads would determine that more than anything. I'll start from scratch and see if I can even rock the mount back and forth once mostly threaded on but not snug. I thought (hoped) the threads were precise enough to do it this way (along with the lock nut).

Appreciate the answers guys! Saved me from a potentially very bad day with my first ever suppressor.

Mine have done that. I tightened them up as much as they could go but didn't have a torque wrench to do it with. Even if they were just a little off, the rifles still shot fine.

One thing that I learned when I took the OSS brake off of my .22-250 to get rebarreld was what a PITA it can be!

I tried just about everything to get that brake off and nothing worked. Since I didn't care about the barrel because it was going to get changed any way, I put it between the teeth on the bench vise.

Those are the teeth below the jaws that are used to grab pipes with. That kept the barrel from slipping and I was able to put a big crescent wrench on the brake and voilà, problem solved. The outside of the barrel was buggered up but it was getting replaced anyway.

I tell you all of this because red LocTite or Roc-set isn't necessary to keep the brake on. None of mine have come off of any of the AR-15s.

So my suggestion is to snug up the brake without going full "Mongo" on it and try it.

 

[Ape_Factory]

I have a torque wrench and they want the mount to be tightened to 33ft. lbs which is pretty snug. But duly noted! Another reason why using a lock nut would be a good idea...I guess the entire "system" would have to be machined to tighter tolerances to do it that way though. I may buy some alignment rods if they're not too expensive just to check everything.

If I remember correctly, the force of the gasses exiting the OSS are counter to the direction needed to remove the suppressor and muzzle brake so it cannot come loose while shooting.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

You may know this, but just to put general knowledge out there:

Shim sets have different thicknesses, each thickness represents a different amount of rotation. Use the minimum number of shims to get the job done.

TBAC and maybe some others ship a peel washer instead of a shim set. These look like a single washer, but are actually a bunch of thin shims and you can peel off a thin layer at a time until you get the desired rotation.

Some breaks like 3 prong flask hides do not need to be indexed, and will ship without.

It is important to have a solid shoulder for the muzzle break to sit on. If the shoulder doesn't make contact or the shoulder or is barely there (like when someone threads a thin barrel profile), bad things happen. Over time the suppressor puts uneven forces on the threads that can make them sloppy and out of alignment.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

I may buy some alignment rods if they're not too expensive just to check everything.

I've never used alignment rods, I mostly look down each end with a light, and if that leaves doubt, a long cleaning rod can be rolled along the side of the barrel for another reference. Just twist the barrel and let gravity roll the rod.

 

[Longshot231]

I may buy some alignment rods if they're not too expensive just to check everything.

I have the Geissele alignment rods in 5.56 and 7.62. Before getting them, I use to just look down the barrel and/or receiver. Regardless, I was always nervous for the first few rounds about a baffle strike.

For the price of the alignment rods, I considered it worthwhile for some peace of mind and a little insurance to avoid a baffle strike.

Unfortunately, everyone, including Geissele is out of stock on the alignment rods.

 

[Ape_Factory]

Definitely makes sense when you factor in the cost of the suppressor! There's actually a thread on the hide about using McMaster Carr tool steel rods of the appropriate diameter. I may go that route. Won't be able to go to the range this weekend anyway so might as well do it right and do it once.

I took the mount and lock nut off the end of the POF barrel and threaded on the mount without washers. See photo below, you can see the gas adjustment block which is at the 12 o'clock position. I need one of the flats to line up with that. Loosening the mount, but threaded almost all the way on, it definitely wiggles on the threads so it's seating against the ledge on the end of the barrel.

So...I took the thinnest washer because I'm a weight weenie. This did not do the trick for either Faxon barrel but lo and behold, it was about 20 degrees off from where it needed to be. OSS's instructions are 30 ft. lbs or 20 degrees from hand tight. Man that was easy! Lined right up. I may go back and look at the other two barrels but honestly, they're lined up and tightened to spec and I'd rather not touch them. I'll check everything for alignment before I go shoot.

And Old Man with Gun, I did not know some of that so the knowledge is very much appreciated! On the not using a rod, these are all gas guns so it makes it sort of difficult with hand guards, etc...I've literally "blueprinted" all the uppers, a semi-precision build (pun intended) and gone over every measurement/torque spec on each of them so I do not want to take them apart.



ONE other issue I had was with the 300 blackout. I designed it and selected parts so that the suppressor starts to sit within the hand guard. I figured a thin wrench would be fine for removing the suppressor when hot and I "assumed" the wrench flats of the OSS at the rear of the can would be a normal, commercially available wrench size. Not. As best I can tell with calipers, it's about 33mm, maybe a hair over. So a 34mm flat wrench (sometimes referred to as a tappet wrench) would work. Can't find one anywhere. OSS lists a tool on their website which looks like it interfaces at the front. I've also seen an OSS "wrench" listed on various web storefronts but no photo. I'm a little wary of ordering it and finding it's just a wide wrench and won't work in my situation.


You can kind of see how many shims I used to align it properly on the 300BLK.


And an overall of the rifle because why not? Sub 5 pounds without the accessories, nothing super exotic other than the Smoke Carbon hand guard and buffer tube. I use the same lower with a 5.56 upper and matched the BCG's so no changes have to be made. Slap on the upper and go! Same lower function, same trigger, keeps things nice and consistent. When crazy ends I'll purchase another lower and build it up.

 

[Longshot231]

Definitely makes sense when you factor in the cost of the suppressor! There's actually a thread on the hide about using McMaster Carr tool steel rods of the appropriate diameter. I may go that route. Won't be able to go to the range this weekend anyway so might as well do it right and do it once.

I took the mount and lock nut off the end of the POF barrel and threaded on the mount without washers. See photo below, you can see the gas adjustment block which is at the 12 o'clock position. I need one of the flats to line up with that. Loosening the mount, but threaded almost all the way on, it definitely wiggles on the threads so it's seating against the ledge on the end of the barrel.

So...I took the thinnest washer because I'm a weight weenie. This did not do the trick for either Faxon barrel but lo and behold, it was about 20 degrees off from where it needed to be. OSS's instructions are 30 ft. lbs or 20 degrees from hand tight. Man that was easy! Lined right up. I may go back and look at the other two barrels but honestly, they're lined up and tightened to spec and I'd rather not touch them. I'll check everything for alignment before I go shoot.

And Old Man with Gun, I did not know some of that so the knowledge is very much appreciated! On the not using a rod, these are all gas guns so it makes it sort of difficult with hand guards, etc...I've literally "blueprinted" all the uppers, a semi-precision build (pun intended) and gone over every measurement/torque spec on each of them so I do not want to take them apart.



ONE other issue I had was with the 300 blackout. I designed it and selected parts so that the suppressor starts to sit within the hand guard. I figured a thin wrench would be fine for removing the suppressor when hot and I "assumed" the wrench flats of the OSS at the rear of the can would be a normal, commercially available wrench size. Not. As best I can tell with calipers, it's about 33mm, maybe a hair over. So a 34mm flat wrench (sometimes referred to as a tappet wrench) would work. Can't find one anywhere. OSS lists a tool on their website which looks like it interfaces at the front. I've also seen an OSS "wrench" listed on various web storefronts but no photo. I'm a little wary of ordering it and finding it's just a wide wrench and won't work in my situation.


You can kind of see how many shims I used to align it properly on the 300BLK.


And an overall of the rifle because why not? Sub 5 pounds without the accessories, nothing super exotic other than the Smoke Carbon hand guard and buffer tube. I use the same lower with a 5.56 upper and matched the BCG's so no changes have to be made. Slap on the upper and go! Same lower function, same trigger, keeps things nice and consistent. When crazy ends I'll purchase another lower and build it up.

IMHO, the timing of a brake is only important whenever the firearm is used without a suppressor. Think about this for a minute. If you were not firing the rifle with a suppressor then the direction of gasses escaping, and resultant force vector, would be a critical factor in the alignment of the barrel with the target when the bullet exits would be important.

The suppressor will only permit the gasses to escape in one direction. That direction is forward with the bullet.

Below are two brakes from the OSS Gen 5 suppressors. As you can see, one is a little off and the other one is way off.

The only problems that I encountered were with the rifle that has the brake that is way off. That was when I tried to zero the weapon. Without going into detail, the errors were all my fault. I zero in the prone position with bipod. I forgot to extend the butt pad because my head moves far forward in prone.

I got frustrated but decided to take it to a long range shoot anyway. After shooting at a 200 yard target with winds DEAD calm I could see that I was .2 mil right on windage. I dialed in the correction and with the exception of a couple of my errors in wind estimation, the rifle exceeded my expectations. I shot at targets that day out to 900 yards and without bragging too much was able to hit steel consistently. Any misses were due to incorrect wind estimate as my elevation for the shots was correct.

I tell you this because I don't believe the timing of the brake is important unless you were shooting it without a suppressor.

I only fire these suppressed. I can imagine the problems I would encounter without the suppressors but I'm not concerning myself with that. If I were taking these rifles into a tactical situation then I might put some peel washers on the threaded barrel to time both brakes.

I don't envision myself taking my toys to the sandbox to play with. Even if I did, they will be wearing suppressors for obvious self-interests.

I would also advise putting anti-seize lubricant on the threads that the can is screwed on. It makes it a heck of a lot easier to remove later.

My opinion will obviously be at odds with other esteemed members of this forum. So pardon me while slip into something flame-retardant.

 

[Ape_Factory]

Ah gotcha on the brake being off...I have shot the 300BLK with just the muzzle brake/mount as I needed to get a good reading on headspace prior to working up some brass and reloading. Same with the 5.56, fired off just a few for the hell of it. I will say the gas buster charging handles are awesome. I don't remember getting a whiff of any gas and was my first time shooting with them.

On the anti-sieze, that was actually my next question. I know it affects torque values but given the fact the mount or the suppressor won't spin off due to exiting gas direction, I thought it might be a good idea to use a smidge. But wanted to check with everyone here first.

But like you, I do plan on shooting suppressed only, I bought it to use! Just really want to take the edge off them, especially the .308.

 

[Longshot231]

Ah gotcha on the brake being off...I have shot the 300BLK with just the muzzle brake/mount as I needed to get a good reading on headspace prior to working up some brass and reloading. Same with the 5.56, fired off just a few for the hell of it. I will say the gas buster charging handles are awesome. I don't remember getting a whiff of any gas and was my first time shooting with them.

On the anti-sieze, that was actually my next question. I know it affects torque values but given the fact the mount or the suppressor won't spin off due to exiting gas direction, I thought it might be a good idea to use a smidge. But wanted to check with everyone here first.

But like you, I do plan on shooting suppressed only, I bought it to use! Just really want to take the edge off them, especially the .308.

I've been using anti-seize lubricant for a few years now. I don't have any problems with the suppressor coming off.

On the other hand, I know when I forgot the anti-seize when I try to remove the suppressor at the end of the shooting session.

BTW, you will want to unscrew the suppressor while it is still warm. When the metal cools it will contract making the bond tighter.

I buy the silicone trivets and stick them in the gun case to handle a hot suppressor. They grip the can and protect your hand at the same time.

 

[Ape_Factory]

Ah good idea on the trivets! Just ordered the appropriate sized rods from McMaster Carr, will be here Monday and only I spent $30 on them shipped with tax.

 

[Ape_Factory]

Ok anti-sieze on the suppressor is ok but what about the barrel threads for the mount itself?

 

[Old Man with Gun]

BTW, you will want to unscrew the suppressor while it is still warm. When the metal cools it will contract making the bond tighter.

I find it depends, sometimes the break getting hot locks the suppressor on and letting it cool is the answer.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Ok anti-sieze on the suppressor is ok but what about the barrel threads for the mount itself?

No, use rocksett on clean threads for the break. Avoid Red loctite, it makes things permanent.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

If you are going to run and gun, look into a suppressor cover. The suppressor is a giant branding iron and sooner or later, if you let the rifle hang, you will get burned.

 

[Longshot231]

No, use rocksett on clean threads for the break. Avoid Red loctite, it makes things permanent.

This is good for other brand suppressors but I found that it wasn’t needed for OSS cans.

I’ve never had a problem with them coming loose.

 

[Ape_Factory]

Ordered the appropriate-sized rods from McMaster Carr. Cleaned up one end on a bench grinder and then polished them on a lathe. Checked all three barrels and all three were good to go!

I managed to make it to the range late afternoon despite the 98 degree temps, killer humidity and the sun being in my face and was of course, the only guy on the 100 yard range. I brought the POF Revolution DI and the 300 Blk to shoot. Got everything set up and fired a few supers and was duly impressed! Slight POI shift, quick dial of the scope and was dead on with Hornady 110gr. Vmax. I think I'd fired eight shots?

I then heard a hello from behind me. Range officer. "Is that a suppressor?"

"Yep!" I replied excitedly.

"Can I see your paperwork?" he asks. I replied "no", I don't have it with me and you, not being an ATF agent have no responsibility or reason to ask me for it. He radios into the office. They're apparently going to get the owner on the phone. Ugh. Now I've been going here for a few years, have never seen them ask anyone for paperwork and I know I have no legal responsibility to provide it to anyone other than an attorney general or an agent of the AFT. It's a tax stamp not a license.

He's nice enough about it and I am too and I simply ask if I can shoot a few more rounds, "I literally just got it." Plus I wanted to know what he thought as the sound is different for a bystander than it is when you're behind the rifle. He honestly doesn't care so we work our way into 300 Blk subs. I brought some relatively cheap Sellier&Bellot 200gr. subs to dial things in with the suppressor as I didn't want to use the more expensive Hornady SubX 190gr. rounds. Despite being inexpensive, they're pretty darn accurate at 100 yards. He actually took off his hearing protection and said it was fine. I switched back to supers and with him standing behind and to the side of me, about 6-8ft. back, the supers were ok too.

I then switched to the POF .308 which sounded like a damn cannon going off with it's muzzle brake especially if you were unfortunate enough to be in the booth on either side of me. Silencer came right off the 300 Blk. with no fuss (anti-seize). Loaded up some cheap Winchester 7.62 that looked like it had been sitting at the bottom of a lake. I had a bit left from three boxes and it's horribly inaccurate but it's good to test function with. He stood 10 ft. back and again, said it wasn't too bad. I'd actually forgotten how soft-shooting the POF is for a .308 when dialed in. It's been a while since I shot it. Ammo preservation!

From my perspective, with my check against the stock, it "feels" louder than it probably is. Next time out, I'll go with a shooting buddy and let him fire a few rounds and I'll step back (but with hearing protection) just so I can get a good idea of the difference. Just curious really...I will say it was far more comfortable shooting the POF with the steep reduction in noise. It's still my favorite although the 300 Blk. with supers is pretty awesome. I have to figure out the drop better with subs at 100 yards.

I didn't have to make any adjustments to either rifle with the OSS. All have adjustable gas blocks and I didn't have to touch them. Everything cycled just fine.

Never hear anything from the office so not wanting to abuse the situation, I packed up. Then two guys showed up and rented the Barrett 50 cal the range has. I stayed for exactly ONE round of that thing going off...holy hell. I kept my hearing protection in all the way to my truck and even inside the truck, maybe 300 yards away, with no hearing protection and windows rolled up it was still quite loud. Impressive beast.

I'll have to make copies of my paperwork and put it in all my range bags. I only go to two different ranges and this is the only one that apparently asks. It's close and convenient and I like the people that work there so I don't want to be a complete d*ck about it. He mentioned there was something with their FFL that compelled them to ask. Whatever. They wouldn't know if I'd forged the whole document. So I'll just show it and smile and get on with shooting.

One thing I did learn. Yes, I brought a "hot mitt" but I didn't bring anything to carry a hot suppressor home! And it stays hot for a good bit. Suggestions for that? Just a suppressor cover?

 

[Longshot231]

I'll have to make copies of my paperwork and put it in all my range bags. I only go to two different ranges and this is the only one that apparently asks. It's close and convenient and I like the people that work there so I don't want to be a complete d*ck about it. He mentioned there was something with their FFL that compelled them to ask. Whatever. They wouldn't know if I'd forged the whole document. So I'll just show it and smile and get on with shooting.

One thing I did learn. Yes, I brought a "hot mitt" but I didn't bring anything to carry a hot suppressor home! And it stays hot for a good bit. Suggestions for that? Just a suppressor cover?

Congrats on everything working for you. I have copies of all From 1s and Form 4s in plastic sleeves in a notebook which stays in my vehicle. So regardless of what firearm I have with me, the paperwork is there.

You may hear some people say to take a picture of the Form 1 or 4 and keep it on your iPhone. My personal advice would be NOT to do that.

If an ATF agent or LEO asks to see your paperwork and you hand them the iPhone then they can start looking through everything else on that thing.

As far as a hot suppressor is concerned, I don't have a bag to put it in. I do have suppressor covers for all of the cans. That won't protect you or material from the ends of the suppressor.

When I'm done shooting, I let it cool a little bit but when it's still warm, I use the silicone trivet to unscrew the suppressor to avoid a carbon look even if I do use anti-seize.

If you don't have a cover yet, you could remove the suppressor and lay it on the bench. Remember that solids warm/cool faster than liquids and the shooting bench could act like a heat-sink and help the can cool off faster. That's worked for me.

I've got my covers from Cole-Tac and Underground Precision. They are highly recommended. Armageddon Gear makes suppressor covers but I don't know if they make them for OSS yet. There stuff is always great. They will give you a military discount but you have to ask.

 

[Ape_Factory]

I actually ordered one from Cole-Tac last night! And Silencer Shop has an inexpensive $30 pouch I'll likely purchase today. I started looking around at hot pouches and was alarmed at their cost.

I did as you did and unscrewed the suppressor almost immediately and laid it on the shooting table. Took a good while before I could handle it!

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Cole-Tac is my go to. I keep kitchen towels in my range bag for sweat or whatever. I can roll a hot suppressor like a burrito and have no fear it will damage anything else in my bag.

 

[Longshot231]

Cole-Tac is my go to. I keep kitchen towels in my range bag for sweat or whatever. I can roll a hot suppressor like a burrito and have no fear it will damage anything else in my bag.

I assume that the towels are 100% cotton. Any nylon or polyester fibers could melt on the hot metal.

 

[mewillis]

go to wallysmart and to the ladies section where curling irons are. buy a silicone mat for the iron, ~$5 and just wrap your
silencer in it and go about your business, no melting your bag or damaging anything. I use velcro strips to wrap the mat closed.
works awesome.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

I assume that the towels are 100% cotton. Any nylon or polyester fibers could melt on the hot metal.

By the time I wrap them I doubt it would matter, they are hot, but not melt stuff hot.

 

[92G]

@Ape_Factory

are you sure that OSS brake needs to be timed? I thought they create radial blast to facilitate continued tightening, in which case I can’t imagine timing would matter.

my OSS 762 is still in jail (check cashed dec 2020) so I haven’t yet played w the OSS muzzle devices.

 

[Longshot231]

@Ape_Factory

are you sure that OSS brake needs to be timed? I thought they create radial blast to facilitate continued tightening, in which case I can’t imagine timing would matter.

my OSS 762 is still in jail (check cashed dec 2020) so I haven’t yet played w the OSS muzzle devices.

As you can see in the photos above, that mine are not timed. I only shoot the rifles suppressed. So I don’t think the timing matters.

On the other hand maybe a question to OSS may be in order but just remember to emphasize that the rifle will only be shot with the suppressor installed.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

If you are going to only shoot suppressed and don't mind the aesthetics of an untimed break, it doesn't make a difference.

 

[07SGT4623]

As you can see in the photos above, that mine are not timed. I only shoot the rifles suppressed. So I don’t think the timing matters.

On the other hand maybe a question to OSS may be in order but just remember to emphasize that the rifle will only be shot with the suppressor installed.

 

[shoobe01]

This is good for other brand suppressors but I found that it wasn’t needed for OSS cans.

I’ve never had a problem with them coming loose.

Since someone else brought it up: I have zero threadlockers on my (half dozen) quick mount muzzle devices. Only one tried to come loose, and I just re-cleaned and did a different shim setup, torqued it a bit tighter. Just fine.

A gunsmith who cut the 700 for the suppressor for me was very against threadlocker. Cut it to require no shims for timing, and it has worked for a long while like that.

FWIW, mine are YHM.

 

[Ape_Factory]

I'll likely shoot suppressed but when I'm developing a load I have a Magnetospeed attached to the rail on the bottom of the hand guard. It wouldn't extend out far enough to take readings without strapping it to the suppressor which would NOT be a good idea, LOL. Luckily I'm only developing two 300 BLK loads and I pretty much have all my .308 and 5.56 developed.

I had been shooting the 300 with the OSS muzzle brake prior to the suppressor's arrival and it does project quite a bit of blast back and to the side. Never felt a thing with the POF muzzle brake.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

I'll likely shoot suppressed but when I'm developing a load I have a Magnetospeed attached to the rail on the bottom of the hand guard. It wouldn't extend out far enough to take readings without strapping it to the suppressor which would NOT be a good idea, LOL. Luckily I'm only developing two 300 BLK loads and I pretty much have all my .308 and 5.56 developed.

I had been shooting the 300 with the OSS muzzle brake prior to the suppressor's arrival and it does project quite a bit of blast back and to the side. Never felt a thing with the POF muzzle brake.

I attach my magnetospeed to my suppressors all the time. I start cold and either keep the round count low or rate of fire slow. Never had a problem.

 

[Ape_Factory]

I attach my magnetospeed to my suppressors all the time. I start cold and either keep the round count low or rate of fire slow. Never had a problem.

Really! I figured it'd melt the polymer fairly quickly. Most have a max temp of 300F before they melt or burn. But good to know.

 

[Maelstrom]

As far as keeping copies of the paperwork with you, I made color copies of mine at work and reduced the size down as small as I could and still make them easy to read. I then laminated the copies. I keep a copy in every vehicle, range bag, and gun case. My originals stay in the safe.

 

[Old Man with Gun]

Really! I figured it'd melt the polymer fairly quickly. Most have a max temp of 300F before they melt or burn. But good to know.

On a semi- I will shoot 10-20 rounds and then remove it. I think the rubber pads are a high temp silicone or something. I learned about it from watching a group of PRS shooters on the range one day.

Also, you may pick up some fps with the suppressor on vs off, enough to matter knowing about at longer ranges.

 

[Longshot231]

Here’s a video from OSS on installing the muzzle brake. Notice that he doesn’t say anything about timing.

IMHO if you’re going to shoot without the suppressor then time the brake. Otherwise if using suppressor 100% of time then it doesn’t matter.

 

[07SGT4623]

Here’s a video from OSS on installing the muzzle brake. Notice that he doesn’t say anything about timing.

IMHO if you’re going to shoot without the suppressor then time the brake. Otherwise if using suppressor 100% of time then it doesn’t matter.

Agreed about the timing on these muzzle breaks/flash hiders

I have used accu washers

 

[Ape_Factory]

I was shooting without the can on there but only when testing loads as I have a Magnetospeed with a picatinny mount. Switched that up to mounting it on the silencer. Not as quick but it works. I ended up timing the muzzle brake on all three uppers but good to know!